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cleaning ase jet z mod

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  • 15-12-2015 8:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 94 ✭✭


    As the title says I'm looking for advice on how to clean out the inside of an ase jet z mod as I have noticed some flakes coming out of it


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    The Ase (and T8) family of Mods are a pain in the ass to clean because they do not break down into pieces.

    I've tried everything from petrol, buckets of KG, Forest Foam, etc. I even went through the trouble of making a brush that had a long narrow handle and long bristles so i could get it into the Mod and rotate it to clean as much as possible. I simply fill the Mod with whatever cleanser you want to use (i usually use Forest Foam), and plug each end with ear plugs or some similar material and shake the living crap out of it. I then use my "makey-uppy" brush to agitate the fouling, spray it out with oil (any oil will do for this part), then repeat. As soon as i'm happy it's as clean as i can get it, and i've given it the last spraying of oil to remove everything, i use an air line (with a good moisture trap) to try and blow as much out as i can.

    No matter how long or well i've tried it i always end up with something left inside. This can be seen when i fire the first couple of shots and it smokes worse than me on a cold morning.

    The baffles in the mod due to the way they are aligned, the shape of the muzzle of the Mod, etc. will always allow for some liquid/fouling to remain in the Mod. I had to resign myself to the fact that i've removed the majority of fouling and that some will remain. My concerns over using petrol and diesel (as some would suggest) is the possibility that some may remain in the mod and come back onto/into the rifle. On a blued barrel this would strip the bluing and destroy the look of the gun. It's a slim chance but why take it when Forest Foam, etc does the same job with no real risk.
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  • Registered Users Posts: 94 ✭✭hollow point


    Thanks for the reply Cass I used to just make sure it was dry when I finished shooting and spray with wd40 and blow out with an airline and usually it wasn't too bad but that just doesn't seem to do the trick anymore


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I don't think you'll ever get it fully dry. The shape of the baffles always hold a little something back. That is not an issue as your first couple of shots will blow it out.

    As you cannot get a brush in, at least not properly, to agitate the fouling then i suggest you (like me) rely on a good quality cleaner that will dissolve or at least loosen the fouling so that spraying, and blowing out will have more of an impact. I find the biggest problem is time. you get annoyed and frustrated at not being able to clean it properly so eventually loose interest and leave it.

    This is where the solvent comes into play. fill the mod with forest foam or in a good wash of solution, plug both ends and let it sit for a while. Some will say to sit it on it's end, but i prefer to sit it on it's side. I then "roll" the mod every 15-20 minutes. This way the entire inside gets a going over and you don't have to be constantly wasting solvent.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 94 ✭✭hollow point


    Thanks Cass will try that


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