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.17hmr vs .22lr zero

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  • 07-01-2016 5:59pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,117 ✭✭✭


    is there much difference in the zero of a .17hmr and a .22lr. i changed calibre from a .22lr to a .17hmr. i took the scope straight off the .22 and put it on the .17

    i know if i put it back on the .22 it would be out but not by miles. how much can i expect it to be out after mounting on the .17


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 660 ✭✭✭Scrappy600


    barrell length, twist, bullet drop, imperfections in the mounting surface between both guns, all going to contribute. She'll be out by a good long way id wager Tommy!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,117 ✭✭✭tommyboy26


    i had to use shims to raise the point of impact so i could zero the .22.

    generally speaking will i need the shims.

    will the .17 be flatter to 50 thus not needing shims?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,493 ✭✭✭long range shooter


    tommyboy26 wrote: »
    i had to use shims to raise the point of impact so i could zero the .22.

    generally speaking will i need the shims.

    will the .17 be flatter to 50 thus not needing shims?

    Depends on muzzle velocity and bullet used


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    Throw it on And fire at paper at 25 yards. Best way to do it before moving back to 100.
    Had the problem with the 22 before. Swapped the Mounts around and it worked without needing shims. Easy fix


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    tommyboy26 wrote: »
    how much can i expect it to be out after mounting on the .17
    As siad above it's a completely different rifle, twist rate, velocity of bullet, etc. so it could be off by a good bit. You will need to zero. As garv said go back to a shorter distance. I prefer 50, but it's a personal choice.
    tommyboy26 wrote: »
    generally speaking will i need the shims.
    No. hmr is flatter, and will require less adjustment for the distance.

    will the .17 be flatter to 50 thus not needing shims?

    Yes.

    A .22lr zeroed at 50 yards need on average 6.5" up to 8" to hit 100 yards. It then needs over 4 feet to hit 200 yards.

    A hmr zeroed at 50 yards will need 1/4" (if that) to hit 100 yards. It then needs between 3.5 - 5" (inches, not feet) to hit 200 yards.

    Your only issue will be your zero. How many clicks/MOA it'll take to get your zero. After you get it allow 5 moa or 20 clicks and you'll reach 200+. Much MUCH flatter than the .22lr.
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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    BTW, have a read here for some other comparisons.
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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,117 ✭✭✭tommyboy26


    should i centre my scope before i zero or leave it be a zero from wher it is?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I'd mechanically centre the scope and go from there.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    I done the same thing only a couple of weeks ago. The 17HMR has a flatter trajectory and is traveling at 2x the speed.

    Hornady 17g V-MAX run about 2550fps whereas your .22 Subs with be around 1080fps.

    if the mounts are very similar to each other then your HMR will shot high.

    I changed from a CZ455 .22 onto a CZ455 .17HMR so rail and mounting position etc where almost identical, so or course it would shoot high.

    You will definitely have to re-zero the scope.


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