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Air to Water

  • 07-01-2016 6:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2


    Hello,

    I have a new air to water heating system and am hoping for advice please.

    Do I increase and decrease the heat settings depending on whether I am in the house or at work etc or is it best to leave it at a certain temp permanently and only adjust in warm weather etc??


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Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 144 ✭✭THE DON FANUCCI


    Olivia89 wrote: »
    Hello,

    I have a new air to water heating system and am hoping for advice please.

    Do I increase and decrease the heat settings depending on whether I am in the house or at work etc or is it best to leave it at a certain temp permanently and only adjust in warm weather etc??


    Would love to hear from anyone with air-to-water heat pump system.

    Does this fulfil all your heating needs i.e. does it heat your kitchen taps and rads? is there a noise from the fan unit outside ? Can you just switch off the unit when you want or is it a 24/7 jobbie


  • Registered Users Posts: 34 Philburns


    Hi Olivia, what heating system are you using? Is it radiators or under floor, or something else?


  • Registered Users Posts: 34 Philburns


    And what kind of house do you live in, how well insulated?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi

    we have a Airsource heatpump for 3 yrs now and I can share my experiences .. ( so far)

    our Pump (thermia) has a calendar setting for the following things ..( these are our settings , by no means correct before someone jumps on my post)

    Hot water
    Hot generation only happens at night - 11PM - 09 Am Mon - fri , 11PM - 10 AM Sunday / Saturday to cover for sports


    Heating
    We have a reduced heat setting from 09 AM - 17:00 PM - 18*C , 17:00 - 09:00 its is 20*C
    now here is wher i went wrong initially , its the temperature curve setting. The Underfloor heating and heat-pump provide a Climate rather than instant heat if that makes sense. (underfloor heating does not respond as fast as a radiator) to get to the achieve temperature.

    You can set the temperature of the water on the heat-pump in other words you can tell the pump how hot the water should be for the equivalent temperature outside to get the temperature in the house.

    initially I had the temperature curve to high = very high water temperature versus outside temperature , what meant sometimes the house "over shot " the temperature i wanted , eg 23 - 24 degrees.

    After two winters i know applied a different strategy . Aim as low as possible turn water temperature low as possible , the house will get cold, now in small steps everyday increase the temperature of the water till the house is warm enough ( 19- 20*C for us) . now what is happening is that the house is "nippy" around 5PM through heatloss , but that changes in an hour (underfloor heating needs to kick in) and alternatively we light a fire in the stove if we need a heat fix.

    we leave the thermostats open .. we don't use them , I have altered the flow rate of certain zones. though .. for example the downstairs bath room was very cosy , only to discover the flow rate was high and i turned it down a notch, same for the boys bedrooms . its lower as they don't need that much heat. I increased the living areas were we spend the most time.

    again its taken time to get here .. you need a cold winter to tweak it to your liking

    Good luck , if needed PM me ;o}


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    MENACE2010 wrote: »
    Hi

    we have a Airsource heatpump for 3 yrs now and I can share my experiences .. ( so far)

    our Pump (thermia) has a calendar setting for the following things ..( these are our settings , by no means correct before someone jumps on my post)

    Hot water
    Hot generation only happens at night - 11PM - 09 Am Mon - fri , 11PM - 10 AM Sunday / Saturday to cover for sports


    Heating
    We have a reduced heat setting from 09 AM - 17:00 PM - 18*C , 17:00 - 09:00 its is 20*C
    now here is wher i went wrong initially , its the temperature curve setting. The Underfloor heating and heat-pump provide a Climate rather than instant heat if that makes sense. (underfloor heating does not respond as fast as a radiator) to get to the achieve temperature.

    You can set the temperature of the water on the heat-pump in other words you can tell the pump how hot the water should be for the equivalent temperature outside to get the temperature in the house.

    initially I had the temperature curve to high = very high water temperature versus outside temperature , what meant sometimes the house "over shot " the temperature i wanted , eg 23 - 24 degrees.

    After two winters i know applied a different strategy . Aim as low as possible turn water temperature low as possible , the house will get cold, now in small steps everyday increase the temperature of the water till the house is warm enough ( 19- 20*C for us) . now what is happening is that the house is "nippy" around 5PM through heatloss , but that changes in an hour (underfloor heating needs to kick in) and alternatively we light a fire in the stove if we need a heat fix.

    we leave the thermostats open .. we don't use them , I have altered the flow rate of certain zones. though .. for example the downstairs bath room was very cosy , only to discover the flow rate was high and i turned it down a notch, same for the boys bedrooms . its lower as they don't need that much heat. I increased the living areas were we spend the most time.

    again its taken time to get here .. you need a cold winter to tweak it to your liking

    Good luck , if needed PM me ;o}

    Did you use a liquid screed or sand/cement floor and how does this work with your system, i.e. quick heat release liquid screed v slow heat release sand/cement? Thanks.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    we have basic cement screed nothing really sexy, tiles in the main areas and laminate in the other rooms .. if you use laminate ensure to use low insulation sound damping ( I think the bedroom have some fancy expensive underlay) . It works don't break your head over it .. it works the will be people telling what i should have done .. but I didn't ..


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    Just starting to build and undecided to go for pump yet. Im just wondering if you were to build again would you still go for it or a more conventional system


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Good question .. If I would build again .. ( if I could and the missus would )

    I would use the same or similar, probably use geothermal instead though. Its really good, the heat recovery though is the true star here.. its really good the house has fresh air all day long without losing al lot of heat . (in otherwords is not saving all the energy but a lot of it ) . I would

    - build smaller
    - different Septic tank system (reed bed)
    - rain water harvesting system for the house ..
    - smaller site .. ;o}


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭mark11original


    Hi, I'm looking for some information on air to water systems also. Going to start building later this year. I want to price up a few different air to water systems. I have got a price of a Therima and of a Danfoss which I have found out since are the exact same system.

    What would be the best air to water systems available in Ireland?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    From my research your best sticking to mitsubishi daikin or ochsner. Ochsner are very expensive. Hard to justify the massive cost. But if you can afford it they are the best.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Doorcase wrote: »
    From my research your best sticking to mitsubishi daikin or ochsner. Ochsner are very expensive. Hard to justify the massive cost. But if you can afford it they are the best.

    Also check the company you are buying the pumps from , After-sales service is important , eg no point really buying far a field if the support is not there for you. There is a good company in Dublin that so far have been excellent. PM me if you want to know


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭ferryman35


    MENACE2010 wrote: »
    Also check the company you are buying the pumps from , After-sales service is important , eg no point really buying far a field if the support is not there for you. There is a good company in Dublin that so far have been excellent. PM me if you want to know


    The Thermia/Danfoss unit is a good enough product but there is also even better out there, and not dramatically more expensive than its competitors. If you'd like more info feel free to PM.

    Whichever unit you choose, its important to check the low temperature performance i.e when you most need the energy from the unit

    Also, frosting can be an issue because our climate is damper than many - some units have an hourly 10 minute defrost cycle - during which time they take heat back out of the house to defrost.


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭mark11original


    Doorcase wrote: »
    From my research your best sticking to mitsubishi daikin or ochsner. Ochsner are very expensive. Hard to justify the massive cost. But if you can afford it they are the best.

    Thanks, I have actually heard of Ochsner. I was looking at them today online and I phoned a company selling them. They seem to work on a different principle compared to others. (or so I'm told) Any ideas of the price of them? I wasn't given any info on prices when I phoned today.


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    For underfloor and their best pump you will be doing well to get for 30k. I got quoted 35k for 2733 sq foot story and half.


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭mark11original


    Pricey stuff so. My house will be 2450sq ft and a thermia is coming in at 17000 including ufh throughout the whole house.


  • Registered Users Posts: 43 adrianm1234


    anyone heard of ES heatpumps .Swedish make. just wondering has anyone got one of them in and how good they perform . Co in Cork selling them "ES Heatpumps". Awaiting a blocklayers on new build and head wrecked trying to get best most economical heat system that will meet part L. Advised on a2w but still a little iffy. Thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    Hi, at same stage myself. builder just started. Have came down to a few considering price. Down to Ecodan, thermia or daikin. Leaning towards Ecodan as it is build for this part of world. Thermia is a swedish brand and is not inverter driven so vary of it. Best of luck


  • Registered Users Posts: 43 adrianm1234


    Doorcase wrote: »
    Hi, at same stage myself. builder just started. Have came down to a few considering price. Down to Ecodan, thermia or daikin. Leaning towards Ecodan as it is build for this part of world. Thermia is a swedish brand and is not inverter driven so vary of it. Best of luck

    Cheers Doorcase.I'll have a look at Ecodan also. The Es pump inverter too . Is inverter a better option.I need to study this a bit more me thinks


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    Have a look on harp database for ratings of pumps (SPF)


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭ferryman35


    I'm not sure that the Ecodan is built for this part of the world. You'll see it mentioned in numerous previous posts that the Asian models tend to be developed from air-conditioning units, and are smaller in physical size than European models.

    They are fine in drier climates but in a damp climate like ours they will tend to freeze over quicker / more often and they are losing output/efficiency having to defrost.

    You also have to be careful interpreting the Harp Database at the moment because there is a new Energy rating label system being introduced and that for some reason has had an impact on the Hard DB.

    Inverter (also called modulating) Heatpumps are where the technology is going, but there is nothing wrong with fixed speed units especially if you have a buffer. In fact, some prefer the fixed speed technology.

    Their is a good choice of reliable and good performing machines available from Northern European manufactures and any of those would do well in our climate, though some are better than others!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭rolion


    I was making the maths here:
    if i go with HP and cancel the gas line, then i will have to pay all the related taxes associated to electricity supply only.
    Saving around 30-50 per bill.

    Makes sense or i'm missing something !?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,827 ✭✭✭air


    rolion wrote: »
    I was making the maths here:
    if i go with HP and cancel the gas line, then i will have to pay all the related taxes associated to electricity supply only.
    Saving around 30-50 per bill.

    Makes sense or i'm missing something !?

    The standing charges for gas are tiny, I get a bi-monthly bill of €15 during the summer months for zero usage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Doorcase


    Any suggestion on top nordic pumps then


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭mark11original


    Hi, I spent a bit of time researching air to water heat pumps also this year. I haven't come across ES heat pumps. I looked at Thermia and Danfoss which are the exact same machine. BER man ruled them out as to pass part L both need a wood log stove. Next up was Daikin - good machine and passed all the requirements but as mentioned above it is a developed from air-conditioning units. IVT Bosch came out on top as the most efficient and has a variable speed compressor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,494 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Hi, I spent a bit of time researching air to water heat pumps also this year. I haven't come across ES heat pumps. I looked at Thermia and Danfoss which are the exact same machine. BER man ruled them out as to pass part L both need a wood log stove. Next up was Daikin - good machine and passed all the requirements but as mentioned above it is a developed from air-conditioning units. IVT Bosch came out on top as the most efficient and has a variable speed compressor.

    For the benefit of others, including me, can you elaborate on this point please?
    Thank you

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,028 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    The Panasonic Aquarea series has a dedicated fan base over here. Supposed to be a very solid unit and they are modular do you can add to them to increase heat output should you need to.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭rolion


    murphaph wrote: »
    The Panasonic Aquarea series has a dedicated fan base over here. Supposed to be a very solid unit and they are modular do you can add to them to increase heat output should you need to.

    Read on one of their brochures that Aquarea has variable speed pumps as well .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭FiOT


    My two pence, however much it's worth, is to think about who is supplying your heat pump as well as what heat pump you're getting.

    A well - reviewed company with good customer service definitely won it for us between two similar heat pumps in the end. No point in having a fabulous product if there's nobody to come and see it if it needs to be fixed in the future!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 109 ✭✭halfforward


    FiOT wrote: »
    My two pence, however much it's worth, is to think about who is supplying your heat pump as well as what heat pump you're getting.

    A well - reviewed company with good customer service definitely won it for us between two similar heat pumps in the end. No point in having a fabulous product if there's nobody to come and see it if it needs to be fixed in the future!

    Who did you go with? PM please
    Trying to decide?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Heater


    Hi all. After seeing both thermia and danfoss heatpumps in houses householders happy with them but I think the Daikin heatpumps are a step ahead of them in efficiency.


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