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Subtank rda wicking issues

  • 20-01-2016 4:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭


    Having serious issues with the subank mini. I have a pain in my face building coils wicking and re wicking the two of that I have. I have tried several methods. If I plug the juice holes too tight with cotton they dont wick sufficiently and when.I leave a channel and use slightly less cotton they flood and spit. I cant take them out of the house because im constantly reaching for the tools to re adjust everything. Also following methods I found online including rip trippers, if I do 5 or 6 slightly spaced wraps of 26 gauge as they call it, I get around 6 ohms. Thats grand, except the ramp up time is wayyy to quick and im getting bad vapor productuon and burnt hits. So I tried 7 or 8 wraps really tight and compact and it keeps landing at 8 ohms. Head melted so I gave up and bought coil heads. Anyone find a good soloution for this though?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 598 ✭✭✭RIchieNouveau


    I've had a nightmare with the subbies the last few days but they've been faultless for months. So here's my foolproof method.

    5 wraps on a 2ml bit or screwdriver, contact coil. Make sure you dry burn it and squeeze it so that it "burns" uniformly. Enough cotton that there's resistance on the way through the coil but still pulls through easily without dragging the coil with it or tearing the cotton. Cut the cotton just before the edge of the RBA deck. Saturate the wick, if it expands to further out than the RBA then trim it back to the edge of the deck. Put the outer deck thing back in place, gently poke the wick in to position at the channels. Gently is the key here because you don't want to compact the wick. Make sure it's covering the channels so there's no room for juice to flood the deck, but make sure it's not protruding out of the channels because that will give you dry hits.

    Hope that works for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭eirewhite


    I've had a nightmare with the subbies the last few days but they've been faultless for months. So here's my foolproof method.

    5 wraps on a 2ml bit or screwdriver, contact coil. Make sure you dry burn it and squeeze it so that it "burns" uniformly. Enough cotton that there's resistance on the way through the coil but still pulls through easily without dragging the coil with it or tearing the cotton. Cut the cotton just before the edge of the RBA deck. Saturate the wick, if it expands to further out than the RBA then trim it back to the edge of the deck. Put the outer deck thing back in place, gently poke the wick in to position at the channels. Gently is the key here because you don't want to compact the wick. Make sure it's covering the channels so there's no room for juice to flood the deck, but make sure it's not protruding out of the channels because that will give you dry hits.

    Hope that works for you.

    Thats pretty much exactly what ive been doing. Outvof curiosity what are you ending up with after 5 wraps? Also are you finding if you take a long hit like 5 to 7 seconds the coil is able for it or does it get too hot. Also what wattage are you vaping at mostly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 598 ✭✭✭RIchieNouveau


    eirewhite wrote: »
    Thats pretty much exactly what ive been doing. Outvof curiosity what are you ending up with after 5 wraps? Also are you finding if you take a long hit like 5 to 7 seconds the coil is able for it or does it get too hot. Also what wattage are you vaping at mostly

    It's reading .54 on an Evic mini. Vaping at 40w, I wouldn't take drags that long. The longest I'd take is 4 seconds and it keeps up fine. Are you wrapping on a 2mm drill bit?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭eirewhite


    It's reading .54 on an Evic mini. Vaping at 40w, I wouldn't take drags that long. The longest I'd take is 4 seconds and it keeps up fine. Are you wrapping on a 2mm drill bit?

    Ah yeah well at 40 watts I would consider 4 seconds long enough too.I was wrapping on.the little blue screwdriver it came with, id say its arount 2mm is it. I couldnt the thing to keep up at 22 or 23 watts. I normally vape at around 30 - 35 watts so it was very annoying all together


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 489 ✭✭AngryDiMaria


    You could try this method I found last week on reddit. I always did it the traditional way but I like this way now since I've tried it.

    https://m.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/3ot8me/my_easy_method_for_wicking_a_subtank_mini_rba_v2/


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 515 ✭✭✭chipfox


    Looks like way too much cotton in that pic, but if it works for you grand. I use as little cotton as possible (basically the exact length of the subtank mini diameter) and try to keep a gap or at least very little cotton at the top of the juice holes. If you look at the inside it'll almost seem like light is coming through at the top of both holes. Never gurgles, never dry hits and I'm not doing rebuildables long.

    Make sure never to pack it down though it just will not wick if you do. I tear the top and bottom "layers" off that organic cotton wick too, the kind of papery bit that isn't as fluffy. Seems to help

    How are you getting such high ohms on the subtank mini? Even at 5 wraps with 30 gauge kanthanl I was getting 1.5 ohms with 2mm diameter. It sounds like the screws on the RBA might be a bit loose?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 515 ✭✭✭chipfox


    Looks like way too much cotton in that pic, but if it works for you grand. I use as little cotton as possible (basically the exact length of the subtank mini diameter) and try to keep a gap or at least very little cotton at the top of the juice holes. If you look at the inside it'll almost seem like light is coming through at the top of both holes. Never gurgles, never dry hits and I'm not doing rebuildables long.

    Make sure never to pack it down though it just will not wick if you do. I tear the top and bottom "layers" off that organic cotton wick too, the kind of papery bit that isn't as fluffy. Seems to help

    How are you getting such high ohms on the subtank mini? Even at 5 wraps with 30 gauge kanthanl I was getting 1.5 ohms with 2mm diameter. It sounds like the screws on the RBA might be a bit loose?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    How are you getting such high ohms on the subtank mini? Even at 5 wraps with 30 gauge kanthanl I was getting 1.5 ohms with 2mm diameter. It sounds like the screws on the RBA might be a bit loose?

    Bigtime ... maybe .8 ohms ?

    8 wraps of 24 gauge works best for me around a 2mm screwdriver and is giving me .6 ohms vaping at 29 watts (pretty hot) .. yes its a tight fit!

    I generally use a really thin strip of very "fluffed up" cotton threaded through the coil. I don't twist the cotton at all except the area I'm threading through the coil. Then when I'm done I thread it through the cap and cut it right at that point. Use a tweezer to fluff it up the freshly cut edges before mushrooming it around the holes and saturate when its done.

    Keeping the cotton really loose (but still covering the holes) is what I found to be the best compromise and works well with 75% VG
    I couldnt the thing to keep up at 22 or 23 watts. I normally vape at around 30 - 35 watts so it was very annoying all together

    I would normally adjust the Wattage to match the Atty, coil and type of juice not the other way round ... maybe its just me ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    How are you getting such high ohms on the subtank mini? Even at 5 wraps with 30 gauge kanthanl I was getting 1.5 ohms with 2mm diameter. It sounds like the screws on the RBA might be a bit loose?

    Bigtime ... maybe .8 ohms ?

    8 wraps of 24 gauge works best for me around a 2mm screwdriver and is giving me .6 ohms vaping at 29 watts (pretty hot) .. yes its a tight fit!

    I generally use a really thin strip of very "fluffed up" cotton threaded through the coil. I don't twist the cotton at all except the area I'm threading through the coil. Then when I'm done I thread it through the cap and cut it right at that point. Use a tweezer to fluff it up the freshly cut edges before mushrooming it around the holes and saturate when its done.

    Keeping the cotton really loose (but still covering the holes) is what I found to be the best compromise and works well with 75% VG
    I couldnt the thing to keep up at 22 or 23 watts. I normally vape at around 30 - 35 watts so it was very annoying all together

    I would normally adjust the Wattage to match the Atty, coil and type of juice not the other way round ... maybe its just me ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭eirewhite


    Im going to have another bash at this today. The reason.I was trying to adjust the coil and wicking to suit 35watts was because I am able to vape the disposable coil heads at this oower and it is a very good vape for me


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭eirewhite


    Im going to have another bash at this today. The reason.I was trying to adjust the coil and wicking to suit 35watts was because I am able to vape the disposable coil heads at this power and it is a very good vape for me


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    Im going to have another bash at this today. The reason.I was trying to adjust the coil and wicking to suit 35watts was because I am able to vape the disposable coil heads at this oower and it is a very good vape for me

    The disposable head is a different beast entirely to the RTA, the 1.2ohm needs around 35 watts and the .5 ohm around 25 watts to attain a similar vape.

    All the newest stock heads have a vertical coils which would make a difference with regards to airflow to the RTA as well.

    Wicking takes time to get right the first few attempts, but once you get it, its smooth sailing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    Im going to have another bash at this today. The reason.I was trying to adjust the coil and wicking to suit 35watts was because I am able to vape the disposable coil heads at this oower and it is a very good vape for me

    The disposable head is a different beast entirely to the RTA, the 1.2ohm needs around 35 watts and the .5 ohm around 25 watts to attain a similar vape.

    All the newest stock heads have a vertical coils which would make a difference with regards to airflow and wicking to the RTA as well.

    Wicking takes time to get right the first few attempts, but once you get it, its smooth sailing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭eirewhite


    was.deevey wrote: »
    The disposable head is a different beast entirely to the RTA, the 1.2ohm needs around 35 watts and the .5 ohm around 25 watts to attain a similar vape.

    All the newest stock heads have a vertical coils which would make a difference with regards to airflow and wicking to the RTA as well.

    Wicking takes time to get right the first few attempts, but once you get it, its smooth sailing.

    Yea I find the disposable ones great ..reason being I get great oiece of mind bumping up the wattage if I need to and even chain vaping and not having to worry about when the next dry.hit is comming. That said I wont let it beat me im determined to get to a place where I wont have to buy coils anymore at all. I think most tanks will come with an rba deck in the future anyway so its as well to get the knack of.it I suppose


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