[PIC] Wall socket back box - can I avoid replacing it?

fullerand

Hi,

I had reason to take off a double-gang wall socket today, and I'm having difficulty putting it back on properly - one of the screws goes in part way but then starts just turning without pulling the socket tight against the wall. Seems like the "grommet" that receives the screw is a bit knackered.

Any suggestions or tricks to try, or should I just plan to rip out the old back box and replace it? I'm hoping to avoid this because it'll mean chipping out some of the plasterwork.

I tried a new screw, with no success. I also tried putting some PFTE tape on the screw, but it didn't help either. Suggestions very welcome

Thanks

aomh

You probably just need to thread the screw holder,it happens a lot. Its a 3.5mm threaded, any electrician will have one

fullerand

aomh wrote: »

You probably just need to thread the screw holder,it happens a lot. Its a 3.5mm threaded, any electrician will have one

Thanks for your reply!! Not sure what you mean though, can you elaborate please?

Irish Steve

The picture you posted won't display, so it's hard to be sure what the problem is. if it's a plastic box with a brass insert, then you may (with care) be able to put a drop of superglue around the outside of the brass bush, but don't try to replace the screw for some time, and take great care not to get glue in the hole that the screw goes into.

If it's a metal box, check that the length of the screw you are using is the same as the one that came out. There were lots of places that were built in "tiger" times where the boxes were not square to the wall, so the screws used to hold sockets and the like on were different lengths between left and right, if the wrong screw (longer) has been put in, it's possible that it hit the back of the box, and has partly or completely stripped the thread in the tab or if you are lucky, the screw

If it's the tab thread that's been stripped, then you may be able to get a new box that's the same, and swap the tags if it's the tab that slides up and down, but you may have to replace the box completely, which will be a much more involved task altogether.

Bruthal

If its a block wall, a 5.5mm hole can be drilled. Rawl plug in. Long socket screw will screw into that.

The old screw tab has to be removed or bent out of the way first.

It all depends on the type of box, wall etc.

A tab off a new box can be glued behind the old tab either, if its a steel box. With the old tab hole drilled out to 4 or 5mm first. A few turns of thread around them and superglue then. Quite fiddly but works.

fullerand

Good idea, thanks. Just want to check what you mean by "A few turns of thread around them"?

Bruthal

fullerand wrote: »

Good idea, thanks. Just want to check what you mean by "A few turns of thread around them"?

If you put a new tab behind the drilled out one, a bit of sewing thread can be tied around both of them to hold new one in place behind the old one. About 10 or 15 loops tightish around them in close to side of box avoiding blocking the screw hole. Then superglue onto sewing thread. Let set. This is assuming it's the non adjustable tab. The adjustable one can just be replaced.

No need to tie knot in thread. Just wrap, keep tension on end when enough loops. Put glue on. Thread soaks the glue up and keeps it in place fairly quickly.

Stoner

Many moons ago I had a lot of this type of work to "redo" after houses were stripped out.

The threader is fine if there is an obstruction to threading.

For a ringer , as in the hole is now too big for 3.5mm I found that 50% if the time it was on a tab that was removable, the the second tab is fixed, the removable tab is replaceable by bending the flaps back ,inserting a new tab and bending them back.

If it's the fixed tab. I found that a single strand of copper from a 2.5 sq or better again 1.5.as earth cable could be looped through the hole , twisted off at the front and snipped to a tight finish.

This is enough to give the fixing some purchase.

Also always push the socket into place with your hand. You do the work, don't let the screwing action do the work of pulling the socket into place. The screw just securely holds it.
People expecting the screw action to pull the socket into place it possibly the highest cause of this happening in the first place.

I'm assuming it is a steel box btw as described I can't see the image either.

The advice on the plastic box is sound.

Bruthal

Yea that's one of the big causes, using the screw to force the socket plate to the wall. And/or over tightening.