Looking for suggestions replacement for mira elite 2

Ronan H

I was just gonna buy one to replace the portrait Mira Elite 2 that has retired itself after 13 years, but didn't check the extent of the tiling behind the current unit yet. And I suppose saving the few quid with AXA will be worth coming back tomorrow.

Thanks Sleeper for all your advice and expertise! Fair play.

R

theaceofspies

Ronan H wrote: »

I was just gonna buy one to replace the portrait Mira Elite 2 that has retired itself after 13 years, but didn't check the extent of the tiling behind the current unit yet. And I suppose saving the few quid with AXA will be worth coming back tomorrow.

Thanks Sleeper for all your advice and expertise! Fair play.

R

Bought this unit last week in Woodies - a good replacement for the mira Elite @ a working mans price. They wouldn't accept the AXA card as it was already on sale price

Ronan H

theaceofspies wrote: »

Bought this unit last week in Woodies - a good replacement for the mira Elite @ a working mans price. They wouldn't accept the AXA card as it was already on sale price

Good point about the AXA card, didn't think of that.

Bit of an update since yesterday actually. I saw a mention of a filter in a thread somewhere, so I found the filter on the old shower and cleaned it out. It wasn't manky, but definitely needed a clean.

The problem we were having was fluctuating water temperatures, and moving between scalding and stone cold if you move the dial even a half millimeter on the shower.

However, since cleaning the filter, it seems to be running fine again. Temperatures changing correctly etc. So I may just have saved myself 240 quid. How long this will last remains to be seen but it's working for now so that's good

turbostan

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Lots of people have been saying this about all new electric showers in the last year or so. The EU changed the regulations on a TCO inside the shower for safety reasons. Some TCOs can be more sensitive than others. I test for this when I install a shower. If it looks too sensitive I usually replace it with the TCO from the old shower and everyone is happy.

Given triton a buzz 01 6286845 and explain what is happening. Most likely they will replace the TCO under warranty.

Just an update to this, I forgot to do it sooner.
I rang Triton, they sent a guy out the next day. He replaced the thermostat alright, no charge.
All good since, great to have it working properly.
Thanks for your help sleeper12

slavedave

Just a further installation query (aimed at Sleeper12 primarily) regarding swapping out an Elite ST with the T90sr.
My elite is flush with the RHS adjoining wall so there is no wiggle room on the right hand side of the existing unit. When I look at the hole in the tiling around the inlet pipe and the wiring, I have a cm or so of play to the left edge of the hole, so I can gain that distance on a refit. From memory, when I installed the shower the left edge of the hole butted up to a vertical stud so I don't think I can open up the hole that much further to the left without having to do some keyhole work with a cutting tool (chisels?) to relax the stud spacing.
When I look at the manual for both the elite and the t90sr, it appears that the back entry points on the Triton actually allow for a little flexibility to shift the unit slightly to the left of my current connection points on the elite (a couple of cm at a guess). Do you think I may get away with not having to do some extra re-working of the hole? I ask because I haven't opened the seal on the Triton in case I wanted to return it and look for a better replacement option for the elite like the T900.
I would prefer the T90 from all the recommendations I have seen. But I also want the easy life!!

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Sleeper12

But I also want the easy life!!

The problem is the Mira Elite QT might be less work to install but I don't believe you'll have an easy life having to live with the shower.

I'll just mention that it's illegal for a homeowner to install, replace or repair an electric shower.

You'll need about 6cm free space to the right of the shower. If you don't have the space & you have a stud tight to the left I'd pull the pipe & cable back to the attic & drop down the other side of the stud. Easy peasy

Regardless of what shower you install you need to make sure you have a 40 RCBO for a fuse. There is a test button on this & you should test it every 3 months. If it doesn't trip when test button is pushed then it wont trip as you get electrocuted in the shower. If you don't have a RCBO you should definitely get a Registered Electrical Contractor to install regardless who installs the shower.

slavedave

Thanks for that quick reply. Going the other side of the stud sounds like a plan - looks like I'll be pulling up attic flooring again!
Would I get away with employing an electrician to make the connections to the shower? I already have the correct size cabling and 40 RCBO in place.
And do I get a cert with the works?

Sleeper12

Yes. You can do the work yourself and the electrictrican can connect it. He will test the shower and rcbo & will issue you with a certificate. Well worth doing it this way as he will fully test everything. I believe that this should be done every 10 years or so anyway for safety reasons

slavedave

Thanks again.

pauldavis123

If Sleeper12 is about, I'm about to get 2 new showers fitted in a new build. No pipe or electrical work has been done so can choose any shower, what would you recommend?

Also is there any system to limit the length of the shower to say 10 mins. This would save a lot of hassle in our house ;-D

Sleeper12

In my own home I have a bar mixer with rain shower head & a dedicated 3 Bar Stuart Turner pump just for this shower. I think most if not all plumbers would consider this the best type of setup. Bar mixer has a long lifespan & a good dedicated pump lasts 10 years plus. Stuart Turner monsoon brass body is very quiet.

Downstairs I have a Triton T90SR (one of the very first installed in Ireland). The T90 is great for times when someone robbed the water you had heated for a shower upstairs or just as a second shower. My only regret was not putting a bar mixer in this shower as well as the T90

Ask your own plumber for ideas. He'll most likely recommend something more suitable for your setup

My only advise is if you get an electric shower of any kind always pick Triton above Mira. If you get a cartridge shower (dial on the wall) Mira above Triton. Digital I'd pick Aqualisa but tbh all Digital is expensive to repair & you are better staying away. Personally I'd want a 10 year warranty with a Digital shower & they wont offer that

pauldavis123

Great info, esp the two showers in one, expensive but you have a shower every day so worth it.

Any thoughts on limiting a T90SR to ten minutes?

Sleeper12

pauldavis123 wrote: »

Great info, esp the two showers in one, expensive but you have a shower every day so worth it.

Any thoughts on limiting a T90SR to ten minutes?

I'd be a millionaire if I had an answer to that!

Even if you have a cooker switch outside the bathroom instead of a pull cord switch it's still not designed to switch the load. Anther words you shouldn't use this to power the shower on & off.

BTW cooker switch outside the bathroom is a better job than a pull cord. It'll have a longer lifespan

pauldavis123

Sleeper12 wrote: »

I'd be a millionaire if I had an answer to that!

You must know a few sparks, can you not run a 63A contactor connected to a timer? That would easily switch the load while on. I want 10% :pac:

Here is one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schneider-Merlin-Gerin-15864-Multi9-Contactor-CT-2NO-63A-Amp-2P-Double-Pole/142298669314?epid=1773812853&hash=item2121a96102:g:dsQAAOSwax5YuDG~

Panrich

My mira elite 2 has started to sound like a diesel engine this week after 15 years.

Reading here has got me a little alarmed as we don't have an RCBO with a test button. The breaker for the shower just says BO40 but just has the up/down switch. Will this need to be replaced and is it dangerous?

Was looking at the Triton but a bit put off by the slow warm up times reported here. The Mira warms up in about 20-30 seconds.

Wearb

Panrich wrote: »

My mira elite 2 has started to sound like a diesel engine this week after 15 years.

Reading here has got me a little alarmed as we don't have an RCBO with a test button. The breaker for the shower just says BO40 but just has the up/down switch. Will this need to be replaced and is it dangerous?

Was looking at the Triton but a bit put off by the slow warm up times reported here. The Mira warms up in about 20-30 seconds.

Unless it was installed by someone without appropriate knowledge, it’s likely to be going through a rcd as well. Have it checked to be on the safe side.

Panrich

Wearb wrote: »

Unless it was installed by someone without appropriate knowledge, it’s likely to be going through a rcd as well. Have it checked to be on the safe side.

Thank you. There is an RCD with a test button there as well. The house is 15 years old and the wiring (and shower) is there from new.

Wearb

Panrich wrote: »

Thank you. There is an RCD with a test button there as well. The house is 15 years old and the wiring (and shower) is there from new.

Turn off most of your appliances and use the test button on the rcd, then with rcd still off , see if you have power to shower. I would suggest leaving this test until daylight.

Sleeper12

The triton heats up in 20 or 30 seconds too.

What some posters have is a faulty Tco. They turn on the shower and it heats up normally. They turn on the shower half an hour later & they have to wait for a few minutes before the water heats up as the Tco is stuck. This can happen to all showers, Mira, Triton etc. There are probably 6 or 7 triton t90 showers fitted in Ireland for every one mira elite. This can make it seem that an issue occurs more often in the triton but it's simple maths. There are more triton showers so you have more posters taking about the issue in triton showers.

Anyone with a faulty Tco can have it replaced free of charge under the two years parts and labour warranty. It's a 5 minute job. Triton 01 6286711 for repair under warranty

turbostan

Sleeper12 wrote: »

The triton heats up in 20 or 30 seconds too.

What some posters have is a faulty Tco. They turn on the shower and it heats up normally. They turn on the shower half an hour later & they have to wait for a few minutes before the water heats up as the Tco is stuck. This can happen to all showers, Mira, Triton etc. There are probably 6 or 7 triton t90 showers fitted in Ireland for every one mira elite. This can make it seem that an issue occurs more often in the triton but it's simple maths. There are more triton showers so you have more posters taking about the issue in triton showers.

Anyone with a faulty Tco can have it replaced free of charge under the two years parts and labour warranty. It's a 5 minute job. Triton 01 6286711 for repair under warranty

Hear hear, once I got this job done (foc) it's been good, I'd highly recommend the Triton T90sr.

One niggle I have though now that I think of it is this- when I switch off the shower, water stops as it should, but then after a few seconds it starts to drip, quite a bit in the beginning, less so after a minute or two.. Bit annoying while attempting to dry off!!
I've tried wiggling the shower head to empty it out fast but that doesn't make a difference, is this normal?

Sleeper12

turbostan wrote:

One niggle I have though now that I think of it is this- when I switch off the shower, water stops as it should, but then after a few seconds it starts to drip, quite a bit in the beginning, less so after a minute or two.. Bit annoying while attempting to dry off!! I've tried wiggling the shower head to empty it out fast but that doesn't make a difference, is this normal?

Yes. It's a big shower head and it'll drip for a while. It'll drip more if it's at an angle & less so if it's level

turbostan

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Yes. It's a big shower head and it'll drip for a while. It'll drip more if it's at an angle & less so if it's level

Oh right ok, thanks for that info, I'll park it in the level position anymore so, cheers

Panrich

Well as (a), I don't have any room for the Triton landscape model and the P900 no longer seems to be available, and (b) the ensuite shower was installed prior to me moving in and tiling so I just tiled around it I'm going to bite the bullet and get the Mira QT to replace. As I got 15 trouble free years from the old one, I reckon they deserve another chance but I am worried about the reports from the experts.

Now the only question is I see that there are two versions, a 9.8Kw and a 10.8Kw version.

Sleeper12

Panrich wrote: »

Well as (a), I don't have any room for the Triton landscape model and the P900 no longer seems to be available, and (b) the ensuite shower was installed prior to me moving in and tiling so I just tiled around it I'm going to bite the bullet and get the Mira QT to replace. As I got 15 trouble free years from the old one, I reckon they deserve another chance but I am worried about the reports from the experts.

Now the only question is I see that there are two versions, a 9.8Kw and a 10.8Kw version.

I fit these on a regular basis. I'll include a few links below but any plumbing trade counter can order you one & have it next day.

Also you need to stay away from anything over 9KW 230v or 9.8kw 240V unless you are certain that you have 10mm cable

http://www.heatwise.ie/Triton-T900PI-Tank-Fed-Electric-Shower

http://www.theshowercentre.ie/default.aspx

http://www.davies.ie/showering/showers/triton-t90-pi-white

James Forde

Lads it looks like my Mira Elite 2 is giving up the ghost.

Two questions.

1. What is the easiest replacement for the Elite 2, I don't really want to mess with tiling etc.

2. Anyone have any recommendations for someone in Galway to carry out the work.

Thanks

kazmwalsh

Hi, my mira elite 2 has packed up, guy in shop recommended the mira eilte qt reasons a) same foot print as my old shower had the tiling done around it...b) because i have limescale in my water and it has a removable filter which i can clean but now after reading this thread and other things im kinda worried about the mirai have just bought... just wondering if you could recommend a triton pumped electric shower thats suitable for limescale on a similar price point (€229). I told tbe guy in the shop i had heard there was issues with the mira elite but he said they havent had any problems with them.

Sleeper12

Fitting instructions state that the shower must be tiled behind & not around. This will void the warranty and believe me you will need the warranty.

The shower can't be sealed around either. The way it is designed it needs airflow around it to keep it cool. Without this the plastic will dry out and becomes brittle. They you get holes in the shower itself running the risk of water entering the shower and coming into contact with the electricial parts.

I'd return the shower and let the installer provide a good triton.

kazmwalsh

Hi, I have contacted the shop where I got the shower yesterday and I am swapping the Mira for the triton T90SR.. thank you

goob20s

Ronan H wrote: »

Good point about the AXA card, didn't think of that.

Bit of an update since yesterday actually. I saw a mention of a filter in a thread somewhere, so I found the filter on the old shower and cleaned it out. It wasn't manky, but definitely needed a clean.

The problem we were having was fluctuating water temperatures, and moving between scalding and stone cold if you move the dial even a half millimeter on the shower.

However, since cleaning the filter, it seems to be running fine again. Temperatures changing correctly etc. So I may just have saved myself 240 quid. How long this will last remains to be seen but it's working for now so that's good

Did much water come out when you opened the nut or did you isolate the water supply? My Mira elite 2 is doing the exact same thing as yours did.

John.G

You have to isolate the water supply.

goob20s

John.G wrote: »

You have to isolate the water supply.

just did that, cleaned the filter, put the nut on and have a leak below the motor. Pic showing it just above the dirty white label

Sleeper12

goob20s wrote:

just did that, cleaned the filter, put the nut on and have a leak below the motor. Pic showing it just above the dirty white label

New motor is over 120 plus postage. Definitely not worth putting that into a 14 to 20 year old shower. Average lifespan is 10 years