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chargepoint cable/install advice

2

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,934 ✭✭✭stesaurus


    mundogas wrote: »
    Can you see and of the writing on the cable where it is visible? The 25a is one fitted by the installer. There is another one in the abl unit also. That should be 63a. But you need a key to open lid to check.
    It's at my parents place so will check it out when up next. I'll post a pic of cable and maybe someone will know
    Hi mundogas, do the installers give you a key, by default, for the unit when they fit it? Or do you need to ask for it?
    The installer left my keys along with the USB key that had the manuals. I'd imagine they're standard so if you're stuck I'm sure someone could give you a loan.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    Just a comment that if you upgrade to 32KW EVSE, you need to ensure you mains supply cable is 6mm2 at least


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    True BoatMad. I reckon the installer may have used 4 or even 2.5mm2 cable in our installation. There does not seem to be any labeling on the cable so hard to say without actually disconnecting it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    samih wrote: »
    True BoatMad. I reckon the installer may have used 4 or even 2.5mm2 cable in our installation. There does not seem to be any labeling on the cable so hard to say without actually disconnecting it.

    2.5 would be sufficient for a 15A, but that its


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    BoatMad wrote: »
    2.5 would be sufficient for a 15A, but that its

    Probably 4mm^2 so. --- The serial interface won't be here for a while and not in a particularly big hurry to sort this out anyway. I see that this could turn to one of these "best intentions" projects.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    samih wrote: »
    Probably 4mm^2 so. --- The serial interface won't be here for a while and not in a particularly big hurry to sort this out anyway. I see that this could turn to one of these "best intentions" projects.

    The recommended would be 6mm2


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    BoatMad wrote: »
    The recommended would be 6mm2

    True. What I meant is that the currently installed cable is probably 4mm^2 seen as it's quite beefy looking but I reckon not beefy enough to be 6mm^2.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,740 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Ha, like your ruler there, 'beefy'.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    samih wrote: »
    True. What I meant is that the currently installed cable is probably 4mm^2 seen as it's quite beefy looking but I reckon not beefy enough to be 6mm^2.

    ah yes beefy and on fire and beefy and quite happy are two very different cables :D


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    It's the only ruler available without actually taking a closer look to the existing cable. The cable appears rather heavy compared to the roll of 1.5mm flex I used for my camper electrics. Seen as even 2.5mm is under spec for a 16A circuit I'm concluding that the current cable is most likely 4mm^2 (without actually examining it more closely).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    samih wrote: »
    It's the only ruler available without actually taking a closer look to the existing cable. The cable appears rather heavy compared to the roll of 1.5mm flex I used for my camper electrics. Seen as even 2.5mm is under spec for a 16A circuit I'm concluding that the current cable is most likely 4mm^2 (without actually examining it more closely).


    2.5mm2 is the recommended for spur and ring radials spurs fused to 16A, and for ring circuits to 35A ( Standards and Rules for Electrical Equipment and Electrical Installations, ETCI) provided mechanical protection is employed

    cookers rated at upto 10kw are specified at 6mm2 , with final flexible in 4mm2


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    2.5mm2 twin and earth is approx 10.5mm wide and 5.5mm thick
    4mm2 11.5mm x 6.5mm
    6mm2 is 13-13,5mm x 7mm

    all aproxx for harmonised 6242Y T&E

    measure it with a rule , better then " beefy" eh


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I just opened my EVSE today and to my surprise !


    Happy days ! Lucky I prewired with 40 amp cable ! :D

    PHOTO_20160224_183001.jpg

    PHOTO_20160224_183026.jpg


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    So if it's the EVSE562 it will work at 32 amps.

    If it's EVSE561 it's 16 amps only.


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Happy days mad_lad.

    My "beefy" cable has a round 10.8 mm cross section. It might be 6mm^2 after all depending on how thick the combined insulation is. If each of the conductors have the needed r of just under 1.5 mm that would leave total of 5 mm of insulation which sounds about right...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,934 ✭✭✭stesaurus


    So good news my parent's EVSE is 32a capable. The RCBO in the unit is 40a but consumer unit will need replacing.
    I'm not sure about the cable though. I've attached a pic. Green cable is the electric shower, seems to be that flat grey type about 18mm X 8mm. The red is for the EVSE. It's round cable with a 13mm diameter. Any idea if that is 32a capable?


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Looks the same as mine, if it melts I'll just replace it :D , it's only running outside anyway, I got 40 amp cable from the consumer unit to the outside.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭mundogas


    s.welstead wrote: »
    So good news my parent's EVSE is 32a capable. The RCBO in the unit is 40a but consumer unit will need replacing.
    I'm not sure about the cable though. I've attached a pic. Green cable is the electric shower, seems to be that flat grey type about 18mm X 8mm. The red is for the EVSE. It's round cable with a 13mm diameter. Any idea if that is 32a capable?

    Not sure about that cable but most seemed to have been fitted with 4mm2 i think. Just to note, if electric shower is run at same time as charger at 32a it's a large load on the house supply. I would have though it's approaching the need for an interlock so both can't be on at the same time? Others will know better than me but 7kw charger and 8 or 9kw shower my well cause issues running at same time. Worth getting checked out anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    mundogas wrote: »
    Not sure about that cable but most seemed to have been fitted with 4mm2 i think. Just to note, if electric shower is run at same time as charger at 32a it's a large load on the house supply. I would have though it's approaching the need for an interlock so both can't be on at the same time? Others will know better than me but 7kw charger and 8 or 9kw shower my well cause issues running at same time. Worth getting checked out anyway.

    IN general it would be very unwise to have a 32A capable EVSE and a power shower that are not interlocked, dont forget you have to support occasional high power loads like cookers and ovens as well as also supporting high starting currents like fridges etc

    dont just blindly stumble into this


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Our main breaker is 63A, so 6.6 kW leaf will use almost half of the capacity. Water booster pump is 500W, bathroom heater 1kW, dishwasher/washing machine probably around 2kW+ each, cooker at full blast 6kW... Depending on the circuit breaker type inrush current on any motor can trip it when the load is way under the limit.

    Probably not a good idea to use all of the above at the same time. :P


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  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I think the problem is tripping the Main ESBN fuse, or so I was told, you don't want to do this. It costs money to fix and the ESB will most likely want you to increase the supply to your home.

    It's not rocket science anyway but like anything I suppose some people probably wouldn't be able to grasp the idea of not setting the car to come on at a time when most appliances are off and if you need a top up during the day then make sure there isn't too much appliances on at the same time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭mylesm


    samih wrote: »
    Our main breaker is 63A, so 6.6 kW leaf will use almost half of the capacity. Water booster pump is 500W, bathroom heater 1kW, dishwasher/washing machine probably around 2kW+ each, cooker at full blast 6kW... Depending on the circuit breaker type inrush current on any motor can trip it when the load is way under the limit.

    Probably not a good idea to use all of the above at the same time. :P

    Just to say in most Consumer Units there is not a 63a MCB there is normally a 63a Switch Fuse this differs in that the 63 Switch Even though it looks like a breaker is only a sw and has no overload function the overload is dealt with by the fuse

    I am just pointing this out because if people are trying out 6.6 charging and other loads and happen to exceed the 63A load it will be the Fuse which will blow and this fuse is not a normal type fuse in modern Consumer Units it is a Neozed fuse It is usually in the Switch when you pull Switch Down to Switch off you will see Fuse holder in centre its a screw in type

    SO before you try might be a good idea to get a spare from any electrical wholesalers as you wont get one in the corner shop when if it blows you want a 63A Neozed fuse wont cost much

    The Switch fuse is a requirement in modern installations to achieve a visible break in the incoming supply for isolation purposes ie fuse out you can see isolation, But Breaker off contacts could be welded and not open so visible break is required

    This 63A SW Fuse is in your Consumer Unit ie Fuse Board There is also a ESB Networks Main Fuse in your Meter Cabinet usually 80a or 100a but this should not be touched by consumer its sealed and may only be replaced by ESBN

    Just in case someone happens to blow their Consumer Unit Main Fuse Unlikely but still no impossible

    mylesm


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Good info there mylesm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭mylesm


    s.welstead wrote: »
    So good news my parent's EVSE is 32a capable. The RCBO in the unit is 40a but consumer unit will need replacing.
    I'm not sure about the cable though. I've attached a pic. Green cable is the electric shower, seems to be that flat grey type about 18mm X 8mm. The red is for the EVSE. It's round cable with a 13mm diameter. Any idea if that is 32a capable?

    Looks like 3x4sq


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    Rafal wrote: »
    I searched, but I cannot see any notes in my email about the cable gauge. I thought it was 10 sq mm, but I may be wrong. If you drop him an email asking and explaining that one of his former clients who has 32A (this is the important part) thinks he got 10 sq mm, he will have a chance to check and hopefully not be too frustrated with me confusing you and everyone else.

    6mm2 in conduit is more then acceptable for 6kw. The regs allow it up to 10kw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    Rafal wrote: »
    I searched, but I cannot see any notes in my email about the cable gauge. I thought it was 10 sq mm, but I may be wrong. If you drop him an email asking and explaining that one of his former clients who has 32A (this is the important part) thinks he got 10 sq mm, he will have a chance to check and hopefully not be too frustrated with me confusing you and everyone else.

    6mm2 in conduit is more then acceptable for 6kw. The regs allow it up to 10kw

    10sq is an absolute massive cable and not readily available on 6264Y cable


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭slicedpanman


    well I've got my run of 3x6Sq SWA Cable installed, just waiting for eCars to come back and fit the meter. Nigel already mentioned installing a 32A RCBO so, fingers crossed, that its EVSE562 model charge point - so after the tips from mundogas & samih I should be able to so the software upgrade to a 32A charge point :)

    Does anyone know if Nissan dealers will upgrade a 3.3kw -> 6.6kw charger on a 2nd hand Leaf (151 model)? And if so, what do they charge? (I know if buying new its an option for an extra €900 just don't know if its allowed/possible or even a good idea on a 2nd hand)


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭mundogas


    Unfortunately the 3kw charger in the leaf can't be changed to 6kw, or at least not by Nissan. There are aftermarket chargers from brusa that can be fitted but it's expensive and never heard of anyone doing it in Ireland.


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    It would actually be quiet easy and not that expensive for Nissan or any EV manufacturer to install a 20 Kw AC charger.

    AC has huge potential and the ESB were told by Nissan I believe, that they would have faster AC charging, a lot more then 6.6 Kw. So this is why the ESB have so many 22 Kw 3 phase AC points going mostly to waste apart from a few Zoe's knocking around and maybe the odd Model S with the optional twin 10 Kw chargers no other mass produced EV can avail of this.

    I know 100+ KW DC is the future of fast charging but not everyone needs to charge at this rate all the time. But it suits the manufacturer to load the expense of charger installation onto someone else no matter how small.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    It would actually be quiet easy and not that expensive for Nissan or any EV manufacturer to install a 20 Kw AC charger.

    AC has huge potential and the ESB were told by Nissan I believe, that they would have faster AC charging, a lot more then 6.6 Kw. So this is why the ESB have so many 22 Kw 3 phase AC points going mostly to waste apart from a few Zoe's knocking around and maybe the odd Model S with the optional twin 10 Kw chargers no other mass produced EV can avail of this.

    I know 100+ KW DC is the future of fast charging but not everyone needs to charge at this rate all the time. But it suits the manufacturer to load the expense of charger installation onto someone else no matter how small.

    In reality , in car charging is a stopgap, because battery capacities are low , it's a weight you carry around doing nothing , it's takes up space and generates heat. Far better to offload the charger to the charging points.


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