Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh

zg3409

>What charge regime do you keep? Do >you charge to 100% every day or only as >needed?

Also make sure the
"aux battery saver" is enabled. This tops up 12v battery with big battery. This should be ideal for cars not driven daily, but it did not help in my case.

Use right steering wheel mounted buttons to go into the menu

See this video for a guide:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OQEgfqMdzQ0

So was your battery saver already enabled?

TOLLOT

Hi folks
An update

So I charged a jump start kit overnight. Tried that this morning, it didn’t do the trick . As in the ignition came on that but The brakes were still on hold ./ warning was on
Got jump leads and jump started using my wife’s diesel.
Worked straight away .
As in i heard The brakes doing their electronic hum as they released .
Checked the aux battery setting a nd it’s set to on bad I’ve seen the message before saying it topped up
...
So somehow I got a weak 12 v and in the cold yesterday it was not enough to release the brakes , causing that warning /

So now to talk to the dealer maybe about a change in Battery .
I notice if says 12 v , and so many amp hours so maybe I could use a bigger battery

Could be that my short commutes are putting pressure on it , but it’s the second time the 12 v has caught me out ,( if that’s what it was )seems so

I made another mistake I realize too

I assumed that the heating ran off the 12 v when the ignition was on , ie orange setting on power button but I assumed it ran off the main battery when it was in park , ie normal drive/ power mode

That was pointed out to me here yesterday and then it clicked with me after . They just kilkedvthe 12 v battery off .
So that’s true for my old ICE car but not now

I initially assumed the frost in the grass was causing a problem for the brakes .

I’ll bring it out for a spin now to top up the 12v

Nice tip too on the skeleton key thanks

I’ll talk to dealer and replace 12 v is my thinking

Thanks

unkel

The heating on the 12V would kill your battery in minutes!

With the frost yesterday morning, I put the heater on full and it drew an incredible 7kW :eek:
The good thing was that the cabin was defrosted in less than one minute. Our estate was full of ICE cars sitting idling on the driveway with the key in the ignition and the owner back in the house, LOL. Very bad for the engine and you will not be covered for insurance if the car gets stolen

And before anyone says - yes I could have heated up the cabin automatically on a timer via the home charger. Somehow I never bother. The car is only charging maybe once every 3 days anyway...

KCross

TOLLOT wrote: »

So I charged a jump start kit overnight. Tried that this morning, it didn’t do the trick . As in the ignition came on that but The brakes were still on hold ./ warning was on
Got jump leads and jump started using my wife’s diesel.
Worked straight away .
As in i heard The brakes doing their electronic hum as they released .
Checked the aux battery setting a nd it’s set to on bad I’ve seen the message before saying it topped up

Well that defo confirms its the 12V.

Does the kit you connected to it overnight have a desulphation mode? Thats what the battery needs now as it has been run down too low. A few hours on a charger wont resurrect it.

A full recondition/desulphation cycle over 24/48hrs is what it needs.... or just buy a new one.

Maybe Hyundai will cover it for you but they would be within their rights to refuse as its not the batteries fault as such.

TOLLOT wrote: »

So somehow I got a weak 12 v and in the cold yesterday it was not enough to release the brakes , causing that warning /

So now to talk to the dealer maybe about a change in Battery .
I notice if says 12 v , and so many amp hours so maybe I could use a bigger battery

The cold and darker nights probably conspired to tip it over the edge.

Getting a higher capacity battery wont help you. It will likely just extend the length of time before it happens again. What you need is to get the settings right in the menu to ensure the high voltage pack tops up the 12V enough to make up for the fact you have alot of short commutes.

TOLLOT wrote: »

I assumed that the heating ran off the 12 v when the ignition was on , ie orange setting on power button but I assumed it ran off the main battery when it was in park , ie normal drive/ power mode

That was pointed out to me here yesterday and then it clicked with me after . They just kilkedvthe 12 v battery off .

The 12V drives most of the systems in the car. The high voltage drives the motor. As the 12V goes down the HV pack charges the 12V.... if the settings are wrong and/or your commute is short the 12V isnt getting topped up enough.

TOLLOT wrote: »

I’ll bring it out for a spin now to top up the 12v

A spin wont be enough. It needs hours (24-48hrs on a smart charger), not minutes.


You might also consider buying a voltage meter that plugs into the cig lighter. It will give the current voltage of the battery and its a quick/easy way to tell if the battery is running low.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8430724

I'm not recommending that specific one just giving you an idea of what Im talking about.

When the battery is being charged you should see 14V+. If you see the battery showing <12V you know its not being float charged enough.

unkel

That's a lot of experience coming through in your post, KCross. I know because I've been there myself in many cars

denismc

That's a very informative post from KCross,
It's great to have such knowledgeable people in this forum.

TOLLOT

Thanks for the info KCross . I’ve ordered one those gizmos and will keep an eye on the battery health with it .
Seems my driving regime is challenging the 12v battery but I’ll be able to test that theory out now.

Orebro

Never knew about those 12v cig lighter testers, thats dead handy.

unkel

Orebro wrote: »

Never knew about those 12v cig lighter testers, thats dead handy.

A €2.99 multimeter will do the same, but you'd have to open the bonnet

KCross

TOLLOT wrote: »

Seems my driving regime is challenging the 12v battery but I’ll be able to test that theory out now.

You mentioned that you charge the HV as needed and not every night. If you did charge every night to 100% it would also topup the 12V and prevent the issue.

As I understand it, the Ioniq works the same as the Leaf, in that the 3rd blue light flashes on its own to signify that the 12V is being charged and it will do that at the end of every HV charge session (i.e. when its at 100%). That would also "fix" the issue but you then have to balance that with having the car sitting at 100% for long periods of time which isnt ideal for the HV battery.

i.e. If you only use 10% of the battery each day its not generally recommended to be charging to 100% everyday.


How many times a week does the HV battery get fully charged to 100%?

Orebro

unkel wrote: »

A €2.99 multimeter will do the same, but you'd have to open the bonnet

Bonnet has been opened about twice for windscreen wash refill since I've gone BEV - it's so 1990s having to open a bonnet :-)

unkel

It's so 1920s having an aux lead acid battery in your car

TOLLOT

KCross wrote: »

You mentioned that you charge the HV as needed and not every night. If you did charge every night to 100% it would also topup the 12V and prevent the issue.

As I understand it, the Ioniq works the same as the Leaf, in that the 3rd blue light flashes on its own to signify that the 12V is being charged and it will do that at the end of every HV charge session (i.e. when its at 100%). That would also "fix" the issue but you then have to balance that with having the car sitting at 100% for long periods of time which isnt ideal for the HV battery.

i.e. If you only use 10% of the battery each day its not generally recommended to be charging to 100% everyday.


How many times a week does the HV battery get fully charged to 100%?

I currently charge it 2-3 times per week to 100 % , twice the weeks I’m around locally then the weeks I’ve a longer trip a third or fourth time .
Was mulling over that out in a longer spin today , 12v battery topping off at 100 % had been mentioned on tyrbgorum here some time back , so the advantage of that vs having the battery at 100% a lot .
would the BMS protect the battery from degradation though ?
I’d be doing some driving at least every day .
Guess I’ll collect some data with the battery health gizmo and ensure I plug it in at home at least the nights we’ve frost expected as the cold night Wednesday night seemed to hammer the battery capacity.

TOLLOT

When Hyundai launch their famous European ioniq app they can add a graph of 12V battery health with a warning function if it’s teetering !

zg3409

So I am in a similar boat, with a flat 12v battery.

I have battery saver always on. I assume battery saver only tops up every 3 days, and my battery died overnight due to cold and possibly a software bug that causes too much drain on battery for those running 2016 software.

If plugged in nightly, 12v battery is constantly topped up, so you may have quite a worn battery and not realise.

If driving or engine-on the 12v battery is also constantly topped up. I have a plug in voltmeter, so I can see this happening.

So this issue seems to happen when car is not charging, and 12v battery goes flat within the 72 hour period where the battery saver is waiting to see if the battery should be topped up.

I suspect if I parked my car for 70 hours, without charging, the battery might drop very low, as my battery is 1.5 years old, and it is not in its best health. If it lasts 72 hours then it will be topped up automatically and I will get the warning next use that battery saver has been used. I never leave my car parked for 3 full days without being plugged in.

For TOLLOT his battery may or may not recover, but it may recover better if charged using a professional charger.

Then he needs to leave his car plugged in even when 100% charged as he needs to top up the 12v battery more than every 3 days. If he gets a new battery it may last the 3 days, but as he does short journeys it may not be topped up during a short drive and so while parked at work it will drain more and never get a real top up until it is next plugged in all night. So his car needs to be plugged in much more, just to keep 12v battery fully topped up, as his short journeys are not long enough to charge it, and the car only tops it up every 72 hours. 3 full days parked) which does not seem to be good enough particularly on cold nights, when the battery has been treated badly in this case.

In my case the battery may have been treated badly by previous owner (low mileage London car) and so I also need to leave charging cable connected every night, and possibly get a new battery as it may run down in under 12 hours on a cold night as happened Sunday night.

A note on the plug in voltmeter. I have been using mine all week. Its not really as useful as popping the bonnet and measuring the battery voltage after the car has been sitting. The reason why is the cigarette lighter is not powered on, until the car is started, and immediately the voltage rises as it us being charged from HV battery. So you don't see the low values you can by connecting directly to battery with car off. I have measured 12.3/12.4 volts after 12 hours sitting, which is not ideal. I would prefer 12.9/13V or more indicating battery has a long way before it drops to 11.5 at which point car may no longer work. Using plug in voltmeter I see 14.4v 13.8v and fluctuations like car is topping up battery and then charging slower.

denismc

So when your large battery is fully charged does the charger continue to charge the 12volt through out the night ,or does the charger disconnect completely once it sees that the main battery is fully charged?

JohnnyJohnJohns

TOLLOT wrote: »

Morning Folks
My Ioniq would not move this morning for trip to work .
Message “check brakes” flashing when I started it . Had about 170 km range so main battery has plenty charge
It switched on but wouldn’t go into gear .
It was the first touch of frost we’ve got so I left it on with heaters running for 10 min and then turned it off and left it for 15 min .

Totally dead this time , wouldn’t respond the key , lock or unlock .
Opened the charger port by crawling into the boot and Tried plugging in , no joy .
I be seen ppl on here have problems with the 12v battery and given it was totally dead a few min later it’s my theory it’s acting up .
Any one across this before ? Any one changed supplied 12 V battery?
Guess AA cover is an immediate solution but interested in preventing this happening again as while I had to Walk to work today I might not be so lucky another time .

Same thing happened me this morning. Had to pull out a car seat to get into the boot too. It had been plugged in to charge once night rate came on so no idea what happened. AA cam out and charged the 12v and we let the HV battery charge to 100% during the day.

A bit worrying as we're away next weekend for a wedding but I suppose the AA should be able to get it going if we encounter any issues.

CptMackey

Is this 12v battery issue on every ionic. Decided to pass on a outlander and looking at full ev and waiting to get a price on the ionic.

zg3409

>Is this 12v battery issue on every ionic. Decided to pass on a outlander and looking at full ev and waiting to get a price on >the ionic.

Ioniq may be available brand new from some dealers 28K ish?. Kona full EV should be available in limited numbers to order this week. 37.5 K ish?

My battery was 1,5 years old, and failed once on Monday. I jump started it and I was on the road 15 minutes later. It has been OK since and update from dealers may have solved problem.

Other user did not drive car enough or charge it enough, so that might be the problem. Plugging it in more often may solve problem

Often batteries in all cars start to fail on frosty nights, a new battery is probably 60 quid and small 12V battery should be covered under first 2 year warranty. There is no issues with the main batteries, in fact they seem better than other electric cars. We are just discussing the possible best ways to reduce the chance of a flat battery and what to do if it happens to you.

KCross

TOLLOT wrote: »

I currently charge it 2-3 times per week to 100 % , twice the weeks I’m around locally then the weeks I’ve a longer trip a third or fourth time .

I think this is your problem.

Lets say you do 2 nights a week. Thats 2 nights where the 12V gets a topup. Lets say you then have 2-3 days of short commutes with the heating on, lights and wipers on... thats going to be a big drain on the 12V and with your short commute the amount of topup is not enough to balance the amount of draw on the 12V... a cold night and it tips the battery over the edge and it wont start.

denismc wrote: »

So when your large battery is fully charged does the charger continue to charge the 12volt through out the night ,or does the charger disconnect completely once it sees that the main battery is fully charged?

It charges the HV first and then at the end charges the 12V. It is signified by the 3rd blue light flashing on its own.



There are a few folks now who have said they ended up with a dead 12V so it seems common enough.


Just to summarise how the 12V gets charged....

For both Leaf and Ioniq.
1) while you are driving it gets topped up. If you are doing short commutes this topup wont be enough to balance out the draw from having heaters, lights, wipers etc on.
2) at the end of the HV charge session... 3rd blue light flashing on its own.

For Ioniq only...
3) The aux saver+ mode being active has two topups

a) If the car is off and idle for 3 days it auto tops up the 12V. This really only counts when you are on holidays or something. Not useful to counteract the issues people are having over the last week or so.
b) If the car is plugged in AND turned on it will topup the 12V for 20mins (according to jeremy_g's screenshot of the manual). This doesnt help much either since you have to turn the car on so its something you have to actively do and think of while plugged in at home.

For short commuters I'd recommend
- Charge to 100% more often, if you can. Maybe every other night.
- If you dont want to charge to 100% use the 3b method above by leaving the car plugged in and turned on for 20mins. You should see the 3rd blue light flashing on its own. Leave it on until the light goes out.
- Monitor the 12V. A fully charged 12V will be at 12.7V. If you have a 12V charger stick it on a full charge cycle (at least 24hrs) if you see it dropping below 12V.

unkel

KCross wrote: »

There are a few folks now who have said they ended up with a dead 12V so it seems common enough.

I don't think I've noticed it in the Ioniq forums last winter, but 3 people impacted in this thread alone seems more than a coincidence alright. I have the same pattern of lots of small cold start trips and only charging the car maybe twice a week, but so far I haven't had any issues myself with the battery

What doesn't help of course is that the battery is only something like 35Ah, which is ridiculously low (I'll have a look one of these days to see exactly how much it is). My previous car had a 95Ah 12V battery, which gives a lot more of a buffer

And you would have thought, in this day and age and in an EV, they would have used a li-ion battery instead of lead acid. That would have added what to the cost of the car, maybe €100? Porsche was using li-ion aux batteries over 10 years ago (but yeah I know, they were and still are the exception)

Silent Running

Isn't there a version of the Ioniq somewhere in the world where the 12v battery has been done away with, and it's functions covered by the main battery pack?

KCross

I've read somewhere some reasons why the 12V isnt a Li-ion. There is some technical reason why they have done that... cant remember why now though.

What seems odd to me is that both Nissan and Hyundai have both got the charge regime for the 12V wrong in their software. 3 people on this small forum alone is a significant number. Lots of examples of it on the UK forums for the Leaf as well.



Instead of charging it at the end of the HV charge session why dont they do it at the start and give it a decent topup each time.
And why doesnt it sense the 12V charge level more often than every few days. Why doesnt it sense it every time you turn the car on and top it up until its at a decent level and not stop just because you've turned the car off. No point in having a fully charged HV if the 12V is dead so clearly its a weak point they have overlooked in their software.

KCross

unkel wrote: »

I have the same pattern of lots of small cold start trips and only charging the car maybe twice a week, but so far I haven't had any issues myself with the battery

Have you stuck a multi-meter on it? Maybe its about to die?

unkel

I'll have a look when I have a chance

unkel

Battery is 40Ah. Mine is currently at 12.46V. Not brilliant for a healthy battery, but more than enough to start Ioniq. It doesn't have to turn over an internal combustion engine after all

Must keep a wee eye on it over the winter. Fortunately I bought a couple of £20 li-ion (!) jump starter packs a few weeks ago on an Amazon lightning deal. These are tiny, but got good reviews and apparently they can jump a petrol / diesel engine up to 2.5l displacement. Note to self: throw one of these into Ioniq.

KCross

unkel wrote: »

Battery is 40Ah. Mine is currently at 12.46V. Not brilliant for a healthy battery, but more than enough to start Ioniq. It doesn't have to turn over an internal combustion engine after all

Thats probably around 70-80% so, as you said, not great but still plenty. But clearly not float charging it enough. If that was an ICE it would be at 100%.

Once you start getting down to 12V you are at about 30%.

Maybe do a 100% charge over the weekend, let it rest for a few hours and test again and see does it bump it back up to 12.7V (100%)?

I'd also, and others too I'm sure, would be interested to see if you turned the car on now while its plugged in would it start charging the 12V (3rd blue light flashing)? I wonder at what voltage does it trigger a boost on that aux saver+ mode?

unkel

KCross wrote: »

Thats probably around 70-80% so, as you said, not great but still plenty.

And that was not long after doing well over an hour of Dublin city driving (over about 3 hours total time)

KCross wrote: »

Maybe do a 100% charge over the weekend, let it rest for a few hours and test again and see does it bump it back up to 12.7V (100%)?

It's plugged in now. It will start charging just after midnight and it should be finished by about 3-4AM. If I remember in the morning, I'll measure it!

What's with the 70-80%, 30% and 100% you mention though? Is that some sort of battery health scale that I'm not aware about?

punisher5112

unkel wrote: »

Battery is 40Ah. Mine is currently at 12.46V. Not brilliant for a healthy battery, but more than enough to start Ioniq. It doesn't have to turn over an internal combustion engine after all

Must keep a wee eye on it over the winter. Fortunately I bought a couple of £20 li-ion (!) jump starter packs a few weeks ago on an Amazon lightning deal. These are tiny, but got good reviews and apparently they can jump a petrol / diesel engine up to 2.5l displacement. Note to self: throw one of these into Ioniq.

Got one for the father in law... Works great as for some reason his battery kept dying. Focus not ev but done the job.

KCross

unkel wrote: »

What's with the 70-80%, 30% and 100% you mention though? Is that some sort of battery health scale that I'm not aware about?

Yea, its not an exact science.... a few variables with temp etc but its a good indication nonetheless


A quick google showed up a few articles with the approximate tables...

Table 2 and Figure 2
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_state_of_charge

Section 6....
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html

unkel

KCross wrote: »

A quick google showed up a few articles with the approximate tables...

Table 2 and Figure 2
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_state_of_charge

State of charge of a lead acid battery:



That seems on the ball. I remember my 5l V8 petrol Porsche with its dodgy battery reliably enough starting when the battery was down to about 12.2V

mouthful

Folks

I am looking for some assistance from wiser heads.:cool:

Having traveled almost 45k km it is time to replace my tyres before the roads get icy.:P

Should i replace them with the same, or are there better ones. My primary need to to extend range to the best possible extent.

Thank you in advance for anyone who can assist in removing some of my ignorance. :pac:

Dont be at yourself

mouthful wrote: »

Folks

I am looking for some assistance from wiser heads.:cool:

Having traveled almost 45k km it is time to replace my tyres before the roads get icy.:P

Should i replace them with the same, or are there better ones. My primary need to to extend range to the best possible extent.

Thank you in advance for anyone who can assist in removing some of my ignorance. :pac:

The Michelen tyres on it are specifically designed to optimise efficiency and range. Would prefer a bit extra grip, myself!

Fishy1

Hi all,
So far absolutely loving my Ioniq Premium SE.

I just wondered if anyone could enlighten me about the scheduled charging option? Having read the recent posts about battery issues on cold mornings I decided to set up scheduled charging, along with setting the cabin heat for each weekday morning.

I’ve selected my morning departure time, the cabin temperature etc etc. I then get a message that scheduled charging has been set & to connect my (Zappi) charger, which I do. At this point I’ve tried to switch off the engine, but I get a warning that the engine must be left on for this feature to work.

Although I was a bit surprised at having to leave the engine on, I suppose I can see the logic to it. However, if I leave the engine on & get out of the car, I get a warning sound, and not only that, I can’t lock the car. Obviously I can’t leave the car unlocked all night! Currently my battery charge is at 72%, but it looks like the car starts charging straightaway. This surely can’t be right either, as my scheduled departure time is 8am tomorrow morning?

Can anyone enlighten me? I’ve checked the manual, and even resorted to looking at a few YouTube “How to set up scheduled charging on your Ioniq EV” videos, and it looks like I’m doing everything right, but I’m clearly not!

Dont be at yourself

Your engine needs to be on to edit the charge settings, but once they're saved, you can switch it off as normal.

Fishy1

Dont be at yourself wrote: »

Your engine needs to be on to edit the charge settings, but once they're saved, you can switch it off as normal.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Will give that a try

Edited to add that I’ve set it up again, switched off the engine, connected the charger, but it started to charge straightaway. I don’t think it should be charging already, but I’ll leave it alone until the morning & see what happens.

fricatus

Fishy1 wrote: »

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Will give that a try

Edited to add that I’ve set it up again, switched off the engine, connected the charger, but it started to charge straightaway. I don’t think it should be charging already, but I’ll leave it alone until the morning & see what happens.

You probably need to go onto the “off-peak tariffs”menu to tell it to charge only after midnight (assuming you’ve cheaper night-rate electricity).

If you don’t have that setting activated, it will just start charging up to 100% right away. Once finished, it will stop until the morning, when it will start pulling from the charger before your departure time to heat the cabin, etc.

zg3409

>You probably need to go onto the “off->peak tariffs”menu to tell it to charge only >after midnight (

This is correct. But beware if you ever try charge during the day for example at a public charger, IT WILL NOT CHARGE until this timer is disabled. There is a handy button beside the charging cap release button, to disable the timer. This has caught out many an ioniq owner when charging daytime. So from now on if a charger does not work, check the timer is off.

ELM327

zg3409 wrote: »

>You probably need to go onto the “off->peak tariffs”menu to tell it to charge only >after midnight (

This is correct. But beware if you ever try charge during the day for example at a public charger, IT WILL NOT CHARGE until this timer is disabled. There is a handy button beside the charging cap release button, to disable the timer. This has caught out many an ioniq owner when charging daytime. So from now on if a charger does not work, check the timer is off.

+1
I've been "got" a few times with this one.


It's the problem with scheduling home charges but wanting to charge instantly at work!

Fishy1

Thanks everyone,
Car was fully charged & nice & warm at the designated time this morning. This is one of the many perks of owning an EV

On a slightly similar vein, I’ve noticed that the defrost option on the rear windscreen is very slow. The lower half of the rear split window defrosts quickly, but the upper section takes ages. I actually thought that it wasn’t working at all, but did a quick Google & it seems to be mentioned a lot on Ioniq discussion forums.

Anyway, thanks again to everyone for your replies. No doubt I’ll be back with more queries shortly!

mouthful

Dont be at yourself wrote: »

The Michelen tyres on it are specifically designed to optimise efficiency and range. Would prefer a bit extra grip, myself!

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Had hoped there was something to deliver another few km.

zg3409

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln0Y78ni4X8

So I nearly crashed my EV ioniq earlier this week on the m50 in morning rush hour. As captured on dashcam above I was driving in adaptive cruise with 2 bar distance set, then the automatic emergency braking (aeb) kicked in. (You can hear beeping on audio) I thought I was going to hit the car in front so also applied brakes myself at last second as car did not seem to be fully stopping. It felt as it was not putting on the brakes hard enough, particularly near the end.

On reading the manual afterwards it says above 50mph the aeb may not actually bring the car to a stop and it may also not fully stop the car before hitting the car in front. The conditions were nearly perfect, dry road, car directly in front, car already slowing using adaptive cruise. It was dark. The ioniq uses both radar and camera for aeb so it is quite an advanced system compared to may cars with similar systems.

I see some interesting links about aeb, second one not ioniq specific:

https://www.ioniqforum.com/forum/7-hyundai-ioniq-general-discussion/10458-emergency-braking-range.html#/topics/10458?page=1

https://www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/your-automatic-braking-system-might-not-stop-your--257115

The moral of the story is that the beeps mean you should brake the car and the aeb is actually designed to not stop you before you hit the car in front in some situations, particularly at motorway speeds. The adaptive cruise will not slow you fast enough in many sudden situations and aeb is just a last resort partial collision reduction system and will NOT apply the anchors even if a driver would, as it is designed not to suddenly stop on a motorway. I stopped with 1 to 2ft to spare and the car behind me stopped within a couple of feet of rear ending me. If I had applied the brakes really hard at the start, it is very likely I would have been rear ended. You can brake harder than the aeb system at high speeds and the system expects you to do so if required, as it will not.

Of course if you buy a paddy spec kona, you might find yourself out of luck as the paddy spec does not have aeb.

Stay safe

Fiery mutant

Always makes wonder what the **** is happening when traffic is coming to a stop in the overtaking lane, and all other lanes are moving.

Wait. Did you not see the car in front break until you near hit it?

zg3409

The adaptive cruise control slowed the car down as it does in stop go traffic, the beeps alerted that a more sudden stop was needed and the aeb braked further. What I got wrong is that I thought aeb would brake better than a human, when in fact it was expecting the driver to brake. I did see car in front and I had my foot on the brake, but I only pressed hard when the aeb seemed to fail to stop the car. Cars grind to a stop generally due to tailgating and overloaded lanes, which causes a ripple of braking which causes total stops.

jeremy_g

yep, the problem is over reliance on assistive technology

Glen Immal

Anyone else notice the four bar distance varies with the speed of the of the traffic, I tend to limit the two bar and below distance to the lower speed limits, On the motorway two bars can leave you short.

ELM327

Glen Immal wrote: »

Anyone else notice the four bar distance varies with the speed of the of the traffic, I tend to limit the two bar and below distance to the lower speed limits, On the motorway two bars can leave you short.

I generally use 1 bar but I find this doesn't work so well in emergency situations.
2+ bars means people tend to pull in to the gap ahead of you unsafely.

Fishy1

Me again, and this is probably a stupid question!

Getting brave now & thinking that we might take a trip down to Kerry in the Ioniq for a few days.

Just wondering about charging the car en route. Is it possible to use a rapid charger? I’m based in Waterford & have tried unsuccessfully (twice) to use the one & only rapid charger in a garage on the outskirts of the city.

The connection seems to start & then a message pops up on the Ecars screen to say “Charging Complete”.

There is another rapid charger (I think) in the Emo station at Junction 10 on the M9. I suppose that I could take a spin up & see if I can get the Ioniq to charge on that one.

Getting back to the planned trip to Kerry, I could take a longer break on the way down & just charge the car at the ordinary ecars charging points, but I’d just like to know if the rapid chargers are an option for me!

Water John

Two fast charging units in Macroom anyway. One vehicle at most, occupancy is lowish.