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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh

1157158160162163199

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    Can I ask what home chargers folks have? Any recommended installers in the North Dublin/East Meath/Louth area too?


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭adunis


    Buy charger and load switch online yourself,
    Any electrical can install,6sq swa up to 15m run
    10sq for longer( personally I go 10sq @10m).
    I have a Garo no frills an not the cheapest but you won't find any negative press about them.
    Zappi if bells n whistles required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭k123456


    How does the Ioniq, calculate your range (GOM)

    on last journey ?
    an average of several journeys ?
    AS I drive on current journey, will it readjust the GOM, on my driving style etc


    At full charge, todays weather , what should I expect to see on my GOM
    Dublin driving , no traffic, fast on the accelerator


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    k123456 wrote: »
    How does the Ioniq, calculate your range (GOM)

    on last journey ?
    an average of several journeys ?
    AS I drive on current journey, will it readjust the GOM, on my driving style etc


    At full charge, todays weather , what should I expect to see on my GOM
    Dublin driving , no traffic, fast on the accelerator

    Could be anything from 180-230 I'd imagine. All depends on what type of driving. Stop start? 80km/hr M50? 100km/hr M50?
    I'm guessing by "fast on the accelerator" it's city driving, stop start at lights and relatively low speeds. Fairly inefficient I'd imagine.

    I'm in Cork, blasting it up the airport hill every morning (26+kw/100km), traffic and back roads in the evening (maybe 8kw/100km). Never compromising on acceleration. Gom is a few km under 200km typically. Less hills, if any, on the weekend which will involve the odd longer (80km) N road drives.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,881 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Ioniq 28 1000km in just over 12 hours



    He is duly impressed and reckons it's on a par with Kona 64/ eNiro 64 and Tesla Model X and definitely quicker than Ioniq 39


    He was fairly conservative imho. And stopped too many times (at slower chargers). I'd say push it a bit more and 11 hours (in Germany) would be easily doable

    Once thing that I noticed - a brand new commercial charger with both CCS and CHAdeMO had cobwebs on the CHAdeMO. It was never enabled, according to him that was a matter of policy "they don't want that". Scary for Leaf owners.


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  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    unkel wrote: »
    Ioniq 28 1000km in just over 12 hours



    He is duly impressed and reckons it's on a par with Kona 64/ eNiro 64 and Tesla Model X and definitely quicker than Ioniq 39


    He was fairly conservative imho. And stopped too many times (at slower chargers). I'd say push it a bit more and 11 hours (in Germany) would be easily doable

    Once thing that I noticed - a brand new commercial charger with both CCS and CHAdeMO had cobwebs on the CHAdeMO. It was never enabled, according to him that was a matter of policy "they don't want that". Scary for Leaf owners.
    Such beautifully laid out charging stations by Ionity. Why can't they mimic that here?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭Mike9832




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭Mike9832


    8% not bad

    So much for no degradation :)


  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Mike9832 wrote: »
    8% not bad

    So much for no degradation :)

    Somebody must have substituted the cells with some Tesco Value ones.

    As expected result really. And the original Ioniq continues to be an excellent car for what it is. A true budget Tesla killer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,819 ✭✭✭Silent Running


    There was a lot of guessing going on at the end of that video, so that degradation figure could be a bit better or worse. Guessing charger efficiency isn't really a scientific process.

    Sure we all know that the BMW I3 REX is the only car in the world that doesn't degrade at all. :D:D
    ALL EV batteries degrade over time.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,351 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    8% deg for an Ioniq is a statistical outlier. I think the methodology is wrong, 1-2% would be expected.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭Mike9832


    samih wrote: »
    Somebody must have substituted the cells with some Tesco Value ones.

    As expected result really. And the original Ioniq continues to be an excellent car for what it is. A true budget Tesla killer.

    Still Duracell

    Tesco value cells are in the €43,000 yoke that takes 9 hours to do 577km


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,960 ✭✭✭Soarer


    Mike9832 wrote: »
    Still Duracell

    Tesco value cells are in the €43,000 yoke that takes 9 hours to do 577km

    Again, cells or lack of thermal management?

    You have to realise there are visitors to this site that will read your stuff and believe it! Stop going on about how bad the batteries in the L62 are when you have no proof. Or at least never posted any.


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    Me again. Going for a test drive on Sat of an Ioniq. Anything I particular I should look out for?

    What should I expect to get with the car? (Charging cables etc.)

    Thanks

    Pete


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,435 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Me again. Going for a test drive on Sat of an Ioniq. Anything I particular I should look out for?

    What should I expect to get with the car? (Charging cables etc.)

    Thanks

    Pete

    Should be two charging cables. A "granny" charger which will have a regular three pin plug at one end and a type two charging cable for use with on street chargers (and your home charger if you get an untethered one).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭Mike9832


    Soarer wrote: »
    Again, cells or lack of thermal management?

    You have to realise there are visitors to this site that will read your stuff and believe it! Stop going on about how bad the batteries in the L62 are when you have no proof. Or at least never posted any.

    Does it matter?

    It's the whole package and it's crap compared to rival's

    I hope people read it and look at an Ioniq, eNiro, eGolf etc instead


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,960 ✭✭✭Soarer


    Mike9832 wrote: »
    Does it matter?

    It's the whole package and it's crap compared to rival's

    I hope people read it and look at an Ioniq, eNiro, eGolf etc instead

    Of course it matters!

    If it's the whole package, say it's the whole package! We all know about Rapidgate, and nobody in their right mind would suggest Nissan's way of doing things is optimum.

    But constantly spouting on about how bad the batteries are is wrong.
    For all we know, they could be're the most hard wearing batteries available, and that's why Nissan doesn't feel the need to cool them?
    And maybe all other manufacturers need to manage their batteries correctly, as they're a lot softer?

    I don't believe either case above is true, and I believe Nissan should be managing their batteries better.
    But none of us know what the chemical make up of any of the batteries is, so calling them "Tesco Value" is inaccurate.

    As for what people buy.
    I hope they buy whatever suits them, beit a Model X or an iMiEV.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 7,257 Mod ✭✭✭✭charlieIRL


    Am I the only person who doesn’t give a damn about rapidgate and Nissan? There’s no way it would put me off buying a leaf.
    Outside my normal driving / commute there’s very little chance I’d need to multiple rapid charge an EV for on a trip I’d be taking her in Ireland. I travel up and down the country at least once a month to play golf and it still wouldn’t bother me.
    I’d say a high percentage of users are in the same situation.

    Also, there’s not enough rapid chargers on a route to overheat batteries here!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,825 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    charlieIRL wrote: »
    Am I the only person who doesn’t give a damn about rapidgate and Nissan? There’s no way it would put me off buying a leaf.
    Outside my normal driving / commute there’s very little chance I’d need to multiple rapid charge an EV for on a trip I’d be taking her in Ireland. I travel up and down the country at least once a month to play golf and it still wouldn’t bother me.
    I’d say a high percentage of users are in the same situation.

    Also, there’s not enough rapid chargers on a route to overheat batteries here!!!

    Rapidgate looks overdone when guys damn a Leaf on its 1000 km in a day performance .....


    The 2 hour stop on the 1000 km run was because of the need to go a lot further afterwards.

    If it was a 400 mile journey the car would have needed only 40 miles put into it to finish the journey so the time needed at rapid charger at that stop would be a LOT less even with rapidgate.

    HOWEVER.

    Because Nissan are such a well known EV maker - EV enthusiasts feel Nissan's approach really hurts EVs on a wider level.

    EVs can do a lot better then Nissan do - part of the problem is that Nissan's battery cooling requires you to drive slower on motorways as well as the slow charging.

    The modern EV properly designed should be able to do.....

    400 miles plus at motorway speed.

    Full charge rates at all rapid stops during the day even in hot summer.

    Tesla and others do this so Nissan should step up and improve too.

    It's about maximising the flexibility of the car to fulfil more user needs.

    Charging speeds are vital going forward and Nissan aren't at the races.

    Yet inspite of that the L62 will still do most people's needs.

    It's far too expensive though as superior cars with more ability can be got at same or cheaper .

    A Tesla can be bought for around 5 k to 8 k more then L62 .

    A car with supercharger network and CCS compatibility and which has reliable 100 kw charging as standard .

    eNiro and Kona are CHEAPER for better capability ..

    And L62 is beaten on a long trip by a Hyundai that can be bought 2nd hand for 25 k


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,825 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    For me the diesel equivalent of rapidgate would be Mazda designing crap DPF systems that cause engines to blow up if you do far too many town journeys and thus get oil contamination.

    Like Rapidgate there are steps you can take to mitigate the impact .

    But like Rapidgate you shouldnt need to take the Mazda mitigation measures.

    Those mitigation measures might include changing oil every 7 k miles . (Old contaminated oil is drained - new oil goes in).

    Taking the car for regular longer trips to try to do COMPLETE DPF regens*.

    Check oil every week to ensure levels not too high.

    *Failure to complete DPF regens is I understand a key reason for the Mazda rising oil issue which leads to oil contamination and potentially a blown engine .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,496 ✭✭✭irishgrover


    charlieIRL wrote: »
    Am I the only person who doesn’t give a damn about rapidgate and Nissan? There’s no way it would put me off buying a leaf.
    Outside my normal driving / commute there’s very little chance I’d need to multiple rapid charge an EV for on a trip I’d be taking her in Ireland. I travel up and down the country at least once a month to play golf and it still wouldn’t bother me.
    I’d say a high percentage of users are in the same situation.

    Also, there’s not enough rapid chargers on a route to overheat batteries here!!!

    I would give a small damn, but only becase its not that unusual for me to drive from coast to coast and back again in the same same -> multiple fast chargers.
    My bigger damn about nissan would be the lack of CCS.
    but for the majority of people the vast majority of time, the level of damn should really be very low


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Me again. Going for a test drive on Sat of an Ioniq. Anything I particular I should look out for?

    What should I expect to get with the car? (Charging cables etc.)

    Thanks

    Pete

    -Put it in sport mode, drive only in sport mode.
    -Not common, but the front badge on mine has a crack on it. Aesthetic only, but if you're buying from a dealer it could be good to check it (500+ I was quoted to replace it).
    -The drivers door rubbers are split on my car (50k km on the clock). Hyundai did nothing for me to replace them, and went all quiet when I asked was it reasonable to expect to replace door rubbers every 2 years?
    -Ask has it had any of the recalls fixed on it, and if buying, be sure to get them to update all the software and firmware.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,921 ✭✭✭zg3409


    There was a lot of guessing going on at the end of that video, so that degradation figure could be a bit better or worse. Guessing charger efficiency isn't really a scientific process.

    At about 40 seconds into the video he very briefly shows a screen with state of health SoH of battery as reported by the car, which shows 100%, there was talk that this value given by the car may be lying or read incorrectly or that a hidden reserve is used to hide degradation. I would be interested if the range in km, after a reset, would be lower on a car with 100,000km versus new car with same temperature. I see the range shown on that car is showing 200km, which is similar to new cars. I do worry manufacturers play around with the battery management system to prevent people claiming new batteries under warranty. With the leaf people reported increased range after a software update, without changing the battery, so software tweaks can squeeze more charge or drain battery lower before dying. Imagine the tricks VW are going to pull!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,921 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Me again. Going for a test drive on Sat of an Ioniq. Anything I particular I should look out for?

    What should I expect to get with the car? (Charging cables etc.)

    Thanks

    Pete

    There should be 2 cables, hidden under boot floor. If not that is 300 euro per cable.

    If used check tyre wear and if it is a UK import (miles on main display). Check for leather seats.

    Ask for a demo of adaptive cruise control, great for motorway/main road stop go driving. Lane keeping/automatic steering cuts out at 60km/h ish so only useful for fast roads.

    Look a boot size compared to others. Test drive a Tesla model 3 in Sandyford, a leaf, a kona, an eniro etc.

    Real range is 160km worst case winter. 190km typical.

    If buying haggle on price, a 171 is around 23k, brand new probably not worth more than 28k particular as larger battery version coming soon and current stock will be obsolete. Look at UK imports, even brand new from Northern Ireland or 6 months old, specialist EV dealers can import for you. Main thing is your commute and weekend trips need to match range of car with room to spare as public charging is often blocked, busy or broken.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,147 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    ELM327 wrote: »
    8% deg for an Ioniq is a statistical outlier. I think the methodology is wrong, 1-2% would be expected.

    Why do you think that? It seems right on the money to me.

    What the car detailed in its Wh/km for the trip and what it took back in from the charger are largely in agreement. Its not an exact science but its good enough I'd say.

    It certainly shows that the 100% SoH figure that people quote is nonsense. There is some degradation and the car still has 200km+ range so people dont see/notice the degradation, but it is there.



    On the temp.... I was surprised to see the battery heating so much on its first rapid. It was at 42°C which isnt at all cool.

    Did he show the temperature on his 1000km Ioniq run where there were multiple rapids? Do Hyundai allow that to go to 50°C+?


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    zg3409 wrote: »
    If buying haggle on price, a 171 is around 23k, brand new probably not worth more than 28k particular as larger battery version coming soon and current stock will be obsolete. Look at UK imports, even brand new from Northern Ireland or 6 months old, specialist EV dealers can import for you. Main thing is your commute and weekend trips need to match range of car with room to spare as public charging is often blocked, busy or broken.

    IIRC Pete has an option on a 2019 ioniq for 25k. IMO, that's more than a better price you could wish for.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭Mike9832


    KCross wrote: »
    Why do you think that? It seems right on the money to me.

    What the car detailed in its Wh/km for the trip and what it took back in from the charger are largely in agreement. Its not an exact science but its good enough I'd say.

    It certainly shows that the 100% SoH figure that people quote is nonsense. There is some degradation and the car still has 200km+ range so people dont see/notice the degradation, but it is there.



    On the temp.... I was surprised to see the battery heating so much on its first rapid. It was at 42°C which isnt at all cool.

    Did he show the temperature on his 1000km Ioniq run where there were multiple rapids? Do Hyundai allow that to go to 50°C+?

    I believe it too

    Bjørn test looks accurate

    It's not good anyway that 8% degradation

    I have been in 7-8 year old ICE cars with 300k km+ and they were in perfect working order besides a few rattles

    Not enough data at the moment to say how modern affordable EVs batteries will hold up after 300k km

    I'd guess 25-30% degradation, a 300km range EV now becomes a 200km EV, as autogiants buy the cheapest batteries they can

    Toyota have mentioned this loads of times but we all seem to ignore

    We only have the Leaf to base on now and I would ignore its data


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    Yeah, I'm test driving a Jan 2019 ex demo Ioniq on Saturday, with 7.5k miles on it. I got them down to £22,800 which works out at €25.2k and will see if I can get them to throw in a couple of free services (given they're so light).

    Thanks for the advice folks.

    I've also registered for Easygo charging and the SEAI home charger grant.

    Anything else I should be doing?
    zg3409 wrote: »
    If buying haggle on price, a 171 is around 23k, brand new probably not worth more than 28k particular as larger battery version coming soon and current stock will be obsolete. Look at UK imports, even brand new from Northern Ireland or 6 months old, specialist EV dealers can import for you. Main thing is your commute and weekend trips need to match range of car with room to spare as public charging is often blocked, busy or broken.

    IIRC Pete has an option on a 2019 ioniq for 25k. IMO, that's more than a better price you could wish for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭k123456


    Yeah, I'm test driving a Jan 2019 ex demo Ioniq on Saturday, with 7.5k miles on it. I got them down to £22,800 which works out at €25.2k and will see if I can get them to throw in a couple of free services (given they're so light).

    Thanks for the advice folks.

    I've also registered for Easygo charging and the SEAI home charger grant.

    Anything else I should be doing?

    Do not use a conventional bank to tfer funds to UK
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=110862674


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,921 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Anything else I should be doing?

    Take photos of your fuse board and the location of where you want the charger. Email them to a few installers and try get a quote by email. Tell them if you have an instant shower such as a triton t90. You can granny charge for first few weeks. Decide if you want tethered or untethered charger. Aim for 7kilowatt charger. Decide if you want to hang on to your old car for a month or two as a back up.

    Assuming your getting car from Irish dealer, get esb ecars app, plugshare app, zapmap app, ionity app. Find your nearby local charger. Apply for esb ecars card. You don't need car, just explain situation although you can ring number on charger to start and stop charging.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    zg3409 wrote: »
    Take photos of your fuse board and the location of where you want the charger. Email them to a few installers and try get a quote by email. Tell them if you have an instant shower such as a triton t90. You can granny charge for first few weeks. Decide if you want tethered or untethered charger. Aim for 7kilowatt charger. Decide if you want to hang on to your old car for a month or two as a back up.

    Assuming your getting car from Irish dealer, get esb ecars app, plugshare app, zapmap app, ionity app. Find your nearby local charger. Apply for esb ecars card. You don't need car, just explain situation although you can ring number on charger to start and stop charging.

    (01) 258 3799 is the local number. Don't waste your money ringing the 1890 one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    Yeah, I was looking at TransferWise, but will also check out Revolut, cheers!
    k123456 wrote: »
    Yeah, I'm test driving a Jan 2019 ex demo Ioniq on Saturday, with 7.5k miles on it. I got them down to £22,800 which works out at €25.2k and will see if I can get them to throw in a couple of free services (given they're so light).

    Thanks for the advice folks.

    I've also registered for Easygo charging and the SEAI home charger grant.

    Anything else I should be doing?

    Do not use a conventional bank to tfer funds to UK
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=110862674


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    zg3409 wrote: »
    Anything else I should be doing?

    Take photos of your fuse board and the location of where you want the charger. Email them to a few installers and try get a quote by email. Tell them if you have an instant shower such as a triton t90. You can granny charge for first few weeks. Decide if you want tethered or untethered charger. Aim for 7kilowatt charger. Decide if you want to hang on to your old car for a month or two as a back up.

    Good advice, thanks for that!

    Assuming your getting car from Irish dealer, get esb ecars app, plugshare app, zapmap app, ionity app. Find your nearby local charger. Apply for esb ecars card. You don't need car, just explain situation although you can ring number on charger to start and stop charging.

    I'm not getting the car from an Irish dealer. Am importing it from the UK. Does it make a difference in terms of apps etc?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭k123456


    "Yeah, I was looking at TransferWise, but will also check out Revolut, cheers!"

    I think Revolut good for up to 5k stg.

    I found transfermate the best rate, and excellent customer service.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    I'm not getting the car from an Irish dealer. Am importing it from the UK. Does it make a difference in terms of apps etc?

    Still get those apps anyways for Ireland. Do you have a plan for getting the car home from the UK?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    I'm not getting the car from an Irish dealer. Am importing it from the UK. Does it make a difference in terms of apps etc?

    Still get those apps anyways for Ireland. Do you have a plan for getting the car home from the UK?


    Cheers, have downloaded and signed up for the relevant apps, so all good there.

    Re plan to get it back, sorry, I should have been more specific. I'm getting it up north, so just a short drive back here ðŸ‘


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    One last thing, I presume the Ioniq doesn't have any kind of pin to drive thing like you can do on Tesla's. Is it possible to disable passive entry or do folks use an RFID blocking pouch to prevent the car being stolen using a signal repeater?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,265 ✭✭✭jusmeig


    One last thing, I presume the Ioniq doesn't have any kind of pin to drive thing like you can do on Tesla's. Is it possible to disable passive entry or do folks use an RFID blocking pouch to prevent the car being stolen using a signal repeater?

    No pin to drive, and yes I use the Faraday bag. You can probably turn off the passive entry, but it's REALLY handy when u got kids and need your hands free!


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭adunis


    As an aside,it's not a biggie but.........
    You cannot change the spedo itself to lKPH In UK cars everything else yes but Speedo no.


  • Registered Users Posts: 399 ✭✭Petetheroadie


    No worries, I'll live with that.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭k123456


    is there Forward Collision Avoidance on the 28kwh Ioniq

    if the event of a potential collision, does , it brake,
    beep a warning
    etc



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp2HQBkzF3k


  • Moderators Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    k123456 wrote: »
    is there Forward Collision Avoidance on the 28kwh Ioniq

    if the event of a potential collision, does , it brake,
    beep a warning
    etc



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp2HQBkzF3k

    As far as i've experienced, it just beeps. If you're using adaptive cruise control it will break, and come to a complete stop if necessary. I've not tried it under extreme conditions. Closest i've had was tipping away at 100km/h and the car in front broke for their exit kinda late. I seen it coming, and while covering the brake knowing my surroundings I let the car handle it. Dropped to about 30km/h pretty quickly before the road was clear and it powered on again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭adunis


    Yes and active lane keeping ,no blindspot detection at least on mine.
    And yes it will drop the anchors itself ,but I wouldn't rely on it,demonstrated by my learner driver doubt if would react to a pedestrian/cyclist but motorbike yes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭k123456


    adunis wrote: »
    Yes and active lane keeping ,no blindspot detection at least on mine.
    And yes it will drop the anchors itself ,but I wouldn't rely on it,demonstrated by my learner driver doubt if would react to a pedestrian/cyclist but motorbike yes.

    Did it drop the anchors when not in Adaptive Cruise Control


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,435 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    k123456 wrote: »
    Did it drop the anchors when not in Adaptive Cruise Control

    I've never noticed it on mine, it beeps but I'm usually braking myself at that point so it's hard to know if it's there or not. Not really something I'm willing to test out tbh :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,587 ✭✭✭✭Dont be at yourself


    First it beeps and makes the brakes more responsive, but I believe if you don't brake it eventually brake itself too. Anybody want to test it??


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭adunis


    It's standalone can't even be switched off


  • Registered Users Posts: 33 cafard


    There aren't so many around Galway, so in case the owner of the other black Ioniq (172) I came across on Quincentennial Bridge last night while driving mine hangs around here: Hi there, and nice car! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,881 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I must drive more aggressively than the lot of ya :pac:

    Yes, AEB does exactly what it says on the tin. It's autonomous. When I drive a bit too quickly onto my drive way where the Porsche is parked, the car beeps vehemently for about 0.5s and then the full anchors are on and the car stops itself. This happens me regularly :D


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,435 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    unkel wrote: »
    I must drive more aggressively badly than the lot of ya :pac:

    FTFY :pac:


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