Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh

Mickeroo

ELM327 wrote: »

The m11 wasnt on mine!

That's just out of date maps, dealer should have been able to sort. No M6 on mine but I just used the torrent link from earlier in this thread to get the more up to date ones. will get dealer to update proper when I go for first service.

BigAl81

Jasus, had a mare of a trip at the weekend.

I won't mention the non working CCS rapid at Castlebellingham on the way up and 15 minutes on hold to Ecars in the freezing wind and rain with unimpressed wife waiting in the car. (They never answered the phone in the end!).

On the return trip the next day, after a wait to get onto a CCS charger (the person before me also had to wait!), charged the car up to 102 kms of range on the GOM. There was yet another car waiting, so being a good EV citizen, I took just what I needed to get me home.*

I had a trip of 78kms left to do according to Google Maps. The last 300kms of driving over the last 24 hours were mostly motorway at 110kmph, so I figured I was good to go as my GOM said 102kms range. I heated the car before disconnected from the rapid too to ensure I would use the least energy possible while driving.

After all that, I just about made it home and arrived severely power restricted in Turtle Mode!! Windows all fogged up from truing of the air, freezing cold from no heat etc. I even reduced the frequency of the window wipers to try save some energy!

Mad to see that range disappear like that. I had a buffer of 24kms on the GOM compared to what I needed. I was on the M1 south bound doing 110kmph indicated on the motorway sections, but slowed down to 90kmph, then 70 to 80kmph when I reached the M50. It was 4 degrees C, but lashing rain.

I suspect the various breakdown services will be earning their money in the winter when EVs get more popular.

</rant>

Efitz2019

A quick question have any of you invested in a spare wheel and Jack? Does the tyre sealant work? Will a garage clean out the stuff and fix the puncture? Or is it a tyre replacement job everytime? In all my other cars I've had the usual spare wheel and kit. Trying to work out if it's worth buying a spare wheel.

Silent Running

Efitz2019 wrote: »

A quick question have any of you invested in a spare wheel and Jack? Does the tyre sealant work? Will a garage clean out the stuff and fix the puncture? Or is it a tyre replacement job everytime? In all my other cars I've had the usual spare wheel and kit. Trying to work out if it's worth buying a spare wheel.

I got a space saver spare kit for the Niro. The alloy wheel, Continental tyre, scissor jack and extending brace all came to about £200. It all came in a big bag too. I don't trust the sealant and inflation kit to get me out of trouble.

Efitz2019

Silent Running wrote: »

I got a space saver spare kit for the Niro. The alloy wheel, Continental tyre, scissor jack and extending brace all came to about £200. It all came in a big bag too. I don't trust the sealant and inflation kit to get me out of trouble.

I think I'll do the same. Unfortunately not much room in the boot. Pity they didn't leave a space for spare.

unkel

Silent Running wrote: »

I don't trust the sealant and inflation kit to get me out of trouble.

Neither do I. But you are covered by the AA and / or your insurance company to get towed to your home or a garage that's open, so you will get sorted if you got a flat tyre.

Silent Running

unkel wrote: »

Neither do I. But you are covered by the AA and / or your insurance company to get towed to your home or a garage that's open, so you will get sorted if you got a flat tyre.

Which is great until you're on the side of the M4 motorway in the UK, on a freezing, wet night, at two in the morning running for the ferry home. With a spare wheel, in 15 minutes you're mobile again.

The recovery truck can get you to a repair centre, but it might take an hour to arrive and where will it bring you at three in the morning to get a repair done? Meanwhile the ferry's gone.

I think the spare wheel is the better option. Even if you never use it, the peace of mind it brings with it is invaluable.

unkel

Yeah I remember you doing a lot of UK runs at odd hours and getting ferries. If I were you, I would bring a spare too

For an ordinary user here in Ireland, I feel it is overkill. Most manufacturers agree with me as fewer and fewer cars come with spares. I can't remember the last time I had a flat while driving. It might have been 2003. On my previous car, It didn't come with a spare wheel either, but I bought a cheap second hand one (matching full size alloy plus good tyre for €70) and kept it in my shed.

liamog

BigAl81 wrote: »

Jasus, had a mare of a trip at the weekend.

...

On the return trip the next day, after a wait to get onto a CCS charger (the person before me also had to wait!), charged the car up to 102 kms of range on the GOM. There was yet another car waiting, so being a good EV citizen, I took just what I needed to get me home.*

One thing I tend to do when ensuring i have adequate range for a journey is to use the pessimistic range figure from the EV menu. If you click EV and then the range map, you'll see a green and a red circle. At the bottom is range figure. I'll only use the red figure when calculating do I have enough to move on.

fricatus

liamog wrote: »

One thing I tend to do when ensuring i have adequate range for a journey is to use the pessimistic range figure from the EV menu. If you click EV and then the range map, you'll see a green and a red circle. At the bottom is range figure. I'll only use the red figure when calculating do I have enough to move on.

That's a very good tip, and I would add some margin again if motorway speeds were involved. Speed, cold and rain are all enemies of range. All three together will land you in bother!

On another note, I actually really hope we get snow (not too much, or for too long mind...), just to see how the car copes.

unkel

Car copes very well in the snow. It surprised me.

As for range, if it is anywhere near tight, I look at the battery percentage left, which is far more accurate than the GOM. If really tight then driving very gently / smoothly (nowhere near the speed limit) with no heat / no active cruise / no regen except in urban driving will get you 2km per 1% of range left even in the most brutal circumstances.

Kramer

unkel wrote: »

If really tight then driving very gently / smoothly (nowhere near the speed limit) with no heat / no active cruise / no regen except in urban driving will get you 2km per 1% of range left even in the most brutal circumstances.

Not when SOC % drops to single digits it won't - range drops like a stone as % drops in those conditions, below 10%.
Last week, Mrs. Kramer arrived at a rapid charger with very low SOC after a 200+ km day.
I think she arrived with 6/7%.
Kona charging, Leaf waiting (locals) so she crawled to the next rapid a few kms away. SOC dropped to 4% almost immediately (turtle) & she arrived at next rapid showing --- range.
Kona had just started charging there (showed free on ECars map when she rang me for advice).

I've only checked it once or twice in those circumstances but the Ioniq only yielded 26.5kWh odd in very cold conditions which explains how it dies a death & quite a few get caught out thinking, as you do, the last 6% will get them 12km if very careful etc.

In winter, it won't.

Lesson is don't trust your Ioniq when below 10% SOC, in winter.

unkel

Kramer wrote: »

I've only checked it once or twice in those circumstances but the Ioniq only yielded 26.5kWh odd in very cold conditions

How did you measure that?

ELM327

unkel wrote: »

Car copes very well in the snow. It surprised me.

As for range, if it is anywhere near tight, I look at the battery percentage left, which is far more accurate than the GOM. If really tight then driving very gently / smoothly (nowhere near the speed limit) with no heat / no active cruise / no regen except in urban driving will get you 2km per 1% of range left even in the most brutal circumstances.

No it won't, that's bad advice


1% equals 2km above 50% SOC and 1% <= 1.5km below 50% SOC is better

Black_Knight

Kramer wrote: »

Lesson is don't trust your Ioniq when below 10% SOC, in winter.

In my experience, don't trust your Ioniq GOM when under 30%.

Kramer

unkel wrote: »

How did you measure that?

Battery starting at 100%, driven down to 5% covering 180km @ 14kWh/100km.

First time I noticed it I did the calculation & recalculated again that night last week when Mrs. Kramer ran into difficulty. She actually ran it almost to zero (immediately recharged) & it worked out at 26.7kWh odd.

It only does this in very cold conditions - a querk I suppose but something Ioniq owners should be aware of in winter - it's not linear at lower SOC in cold conditions.
This is separate from winter efficiency, which everyone knows suffers in an EV.

In this example - 100% to 5%, 180km @ 14kWh/100km, that last 5% won't yield 10km, more like 6/7km. This totals 187km for 100% (28kWh) @ 14kWh/100km, not the 200km one would expect at 14kWh/100km from a 28kWh battery.

I assume the lost energy is resistance in the battery pack at low temp & low voltage (lower SOC) generating heat as that's the only place energy can go, unaccounted for by the car or BMS.

Maybe I'm overthinking this .

Not disparaging the Ioniq - great car .

unkel

Kramer wrote: »

Battery starting at 100%, driven down to 5% covering 180km @ 14kWh/100km.

And you're taking the 14kWh / 100km from the trip meter then in your calculation? Not sure how accurate that is.

Out if interest, what's the mileage on your car? If it is getting high (going towards 90k km) your car might indeed have less than 28kWh available because of degradation? As discussed before, Ioniq seems to hide any degradation and give you a higher percentage of the total battery as available battery up to a point. I'm only at 40k km myself, so nowhere near that

ELM327 wrote: »

No it won't, that's bad advice


1% equals 2km above 50% SOC and 1% <= 1.5km below 50% SOC is better

That's a bit strong to call it bad advice

I clearly state driving very carefully, like hypermiling and staying far clear of speed limits (maybe 80km/h max if you must travel on a motorway, below that would be unsafe). Apart from maybe the last few percentage points, I could nearly guarantee you that under any circumstance (in Ireland) I could get 2km per 1% driving like that

That said, I'm rarely in the situation that I left it that close. Lowest I ever went myself was 3%, and herself 1%. Never got stranded. And will test my new ePetrol can hopefully tomorrow for proof of concept and should get .7kWh (EUR100 including shipping, no taxes or VAT due as I'm getting it in 4 separate shipments) battery soon to do more comprehensive testing

Kramer

I did consider degradation but rechecked it since. Twice actually, once after I first noticed the discrepancy in capacity vs yield & again after Mrs. K ran it to the brink.
Warm battery (rapid charged, fans on) & topped up to 100% the first time & kept in a heated garage overnight the second time.
It yielded 27.98kWh & 28.01kWh so the consumption figures are accurate & a cold battery can yield less than 28kWh.

I'll get my anorak now .

unkel

Kramer wrote: »

It yielded 27.98kWh & 28.01kWh

I can see how those figures would make you think both the published available capacity of the car (28kWh), the indicated trip consumption of every trip and the indicated SOC percentage at all times are incredibly accurate

I'm not entirely convinced though. Up to about 90k km (and 3 years of age) the cars figures you can read out with torque pro would have you believe there is zero battery degradation, which is simply not possible. Not even in ideal conditions where the battery is slow cycled between 25% and 75% at a constant 21C. So Hyundai / the car is not shy of telling us porky pies sometimes

Out of interest, what is the age and mileage on your Ioniq?

Kramer

unkel wrote: »

Out of interest, what is the age and mileage on your Ioniq?

10 months old, just under 40k km (& one new traction motor too ).

I think it's universally accepted the Ioniq has quite a big (hidden) buffer & 28kWh is the nett usable capacity.
Torque Pro shows more than just 100% health - it also shows the battery's actual SOC vs displayed SOC, 95% charged while display shows 100% etc.

I've oodles of Torque Pro screen grabs from when we first got the Ioniq & analyzed/monitored the inverter out of it .

Black_Knight

Its done it again. Blank "scheduled charging" times. I'm still not convinced it's the 12v battery, and if that's the only symptom I'll live with that.

KCross

Black_Knight wrote: »

Its done it again. Blank "scheduled charging" times. I'm still not convinced it's the 12v battery, and if that's the only symptom I'll live with that.

Can you post a pic of the software your head unit is running?

Maybe the dealer didnt update it properly?

Black_Knight

KCross wrote: »

Can you post a pic of the software your head unit is running?

Maybe the dealer didnt update it properly?

Everything looks up to date from the may update. There is a later one, but the fix should be on this

KCross

Black_Knight wrote: »

Everything looks up to date from the may update. There is a later one, but the fix should be on this

Looks good alright.

The 12V was the only other thing and after that you're looking at a dealer visit I guess.

Black_Knight

KCross wrote: »

Looks good alright.

The 12V was the only other thing and after that you're looking at a dealer visit I guess.

Yeah. It's not annoying me enough yet to slash out on a new battery. Eventually though

unkel

Battery's only €50

But the problem will return as it really is a bug in the Hyundai software which is slowly killing the battery. I'd be surprised if I didn't have to replace mine some time this winter.

Black_Knight

unkel wrote: »

Battery's only €50

Expected it to be more. Halfords suggests 100+

Cheers

listermint

unkel wrote: »

Battery's only €50

But the problem will return as it really is a bug in the Hyundai software which is slowly killing the battery. I'd be surprised if I didn't have to replace mine some time this winter.

If the battery is only 50 it does show you how crappily small it is. No car should have a battery that small especially when it's vital to the operation of the system. Software or not. That's a motorcycle battery. Any motorcycles don't have all the requirements this has.

Mickeroo

First morning where I really felt the benefit of preconditioning Consumption was 17.7kwh/100km which isn't the worst I've seen so far this winter either. (GOM was only 179km at full charge with climate on though, which is the worst I've seen GOM wise).

charlieIRL

Mickeroo wrote: »

First morning where I really felt the benefit of preconditioning Consumption was 17.7kwh/100km which isn't the worst I've seen so far this winter either. (GOM was only 179km at full charge with climate on though, which is the worst I've seen GOM wise).

I should have bought an ionic!!!

Soarer

charlieIRL wrote: »

I should have bought an ionic!!!

You bought the eGolf yeah? Not all she's cracked up to be?

charlieIRL

Soarer wrote: »

You bought the eGolf yeah? Not all she's cracked up to be?

Have a look at the eGolf thread and here

Soarer

charlieIRL wrote: »

Have a look at the eGolf thread and here

Ah jaysus, that's a balls.

Lovely cars though.

Black_Knight

charlieIRL wrote: »

I should have bought an ioniq!!!

</Ioniq snobbery>

Black_Knight

charlieIRL wrote: »

Have a look at the eGolf thread and here

Whatever about having EV troubles and learnings on your own, but with a car full of kids and a wife, it's extra pressure. My wife has swore if ever we had to drive to Dublin we'd be bringing her 1.2 Note because of the issues (I call them learnings) I had when I went to IKEA.

zg3409

I managed to get my Ioniq to charge today on CCS in Bray but it took me about 10 minutes of messing. My first plan was to use the website https://www.esb.ie/ecars I had signed up already and also added my old RFID card number. I plugged in car first as recommended on web page, swiped right on the app and got the error 'REJECTED by charger'. I unplugged car, replugged car all to no avail. All while standing in cold at 3 degrees Celsius. I kind of gave up on app at that point and swiped my card. It reacted straight away but said 'plug in cable'. Eventually I left car unplugged for a while, locked car, unlocked car, prayed a bit, put up card with car not connected and then connected car, then it worked. After this success I got brave, disconnected and started charge from app THEN plugged cable into Ioniq then it worked, so the moral is the RFID card is sometimes better, but have the car disconnected first if you have an Ioniq, and a little prayer helps too

unkel

Just re-reading the first posts on this thread up to the end of January 2017. Good fun

Got a marketing call from my Hyundai dealer today too, to see was I interested in "upgrading" to a 38kWh 2020 model Ioniq. I was very nice to him on the phone, telling him the 2016 Ioniq 28kWh is an excellent car, and that I would have no need for the newer model, which would not be an upgrade to me in any way apart from a newer reg plate.

Mickeroo

What kind of deal were they offering?

unkel

I didn't go that far, Mickeroo, as I have no interest in the 38kWh Ioniq. But maybe I should have talked some numbers, to share here

Mickeroo

would have been no harm but I can't blame you either really.

Even though the car is inferior, my use case suits it perfectly so if it they were doing a decent upgrade deal I'd be tempted. It would have to be a very very good deal though.

jusmeig

unkel wrote: »

I didn't go that far, Mickeroo, as I have no interest in the 38kWh Ioniq. But maybe I should have talked some numbers, to share here

Real shame about that charging being gack.

I think at this stage id of prolly gone for the new Ioniq over M3 SR+ if it charged as fast as my 28. I know/like the car, and I was really after the longer range...ie enough range to make to all the Ionity chargers so I don't have to wait (have kids...not cool)

paulers06

Mickeroo wrote: »

What kind of deal were they offering?

My local dealer is offering 17k trade in on my 171. Not a great deal!

Black_Knight

paulers06 wrote: »

My local dealer is offering 17k trade in on my 171. Not a great deal!

Assuming your car is in good order, you should be looking at more like 22-23k.

Soarer

Is it just the slow(er) rate of charging is the big let down on the new Ioniq?

I mean, if you weren't booting up and down the motorway all day every day, would the new one not suit?

BigAl81

paulers06 wrote:

My local dealer is offering 17k trade in on my 171. Not a great deal!

My local dealer is offering 22k on my 191 Ioniq haha ;(

Bif

BigAl81 wrote: »

My local dealer is offering 22k on my 191 Ioniq haha ;(

Against what?

Black_Knight

Soarer wrote: »

Is it just the slow(er) rate of charging is the big let down on the new Ioniq?

I mean, if you weren't booting up and down the motorway all day every day, would the new one not suit?

The fast charging speeds are a disappointment in the ioniq 38 (so yes, it having a slower rate of charge is the let down... and the price). Vaguely remember Bjorn saying he maxed out at ~45kW/hr.

Fastned have had it on their 50kW chargers, but not the 175kW yet
https://support.fastned.nl/hc/en-gb/articles/223715447-Charging-with-a-Hyundai-Ioniq

adunis

Dealer I bought mine from also approached me,he was very offended when I told him I had zero interest in a downgrade......

ELM327

People should tell the dealer why they have no interest (the crappy charge curve speed)
You never know, maybe the info will be fed back along the chain

KCross

adunis wrote: »

Dealer I bought mine from also approached me,he was very offended when I told him I had zero interest in a downgrade......

Good response! It probably didnt sink in though.