2m RSJ fit cost

Rafal D5

Hi looking for rough estimate on fitting 2m long RSJ UC 152 or UC 254 between living room wall and kitchen extension (opening 1.6m wide) wall width 25cm/ concrete blocks. Only removing wall,fitting beam and some plastering afterwards. (no plumbing, no electricity, no skirts etc.)
If anybody could give me an idea on cost would be great. Cheers!

Bonzo Delaney

Rafal D5 wrote: »

Hi looking for rough estimate on fitting 2m long RSJ UC 152 or UC 254 between living room wall and kitchen extension (opening 1.6m wide) wall width 25cm/ concrete blocks. Only removing wall,fitting beam and some plastering afterwards. (no plumbing, no electricity, no skirts etc.)
If anybody could give me an idea on cost would be great. Cheers!

What's it holding up ? Block work, joists , both, how much wall is above it
Is it 100 mm block on the flat or is it cavity block wall. Is waste to be removed or left on site what access is there to the area of work.

Rafal D5

there is one floor above it, I didnt open up wall but I assume its standard cavity wall, house built in 1950s

Rafal D5

waste can stay on site, access from living room or kitchen, floors, walls will be renovated so no problem with damaging it

Rafal D5

there is one floor above it, I didnt open up wall but I assume its standard cavity wall, house built in 1950s
waste can stay on site, access from living room or kitchen, floors, walls will be renovated so no problem with damaging it

Turtle_

152 seems too narrow but a 254uc is excessive. Try a 203uc46 and just call a local builder for a quote.

BryanF

Turtle_ wrote: »

152 seems too narrow but a 254uc is excessive. Try a 203uc46 and just call a local builder for a quote.

Hold your horses, the OP's eng will design the structure, not boards.ie - the op asked about the costs, that's all

Turtle_

BryanF wrote: »

Hold your horses, the OP's eng will design the structure, not boards.ie - the op asked about the costs, that's all

Yeah obviously. Just saying it's not realistic to get quotes for 152. Plenty of strength and stiffness but not wide enough to be practical. You'd be welding on plates to make it wide enough, which is usually more expensive than just getting the bigger beam. OP also entirely omitted the option of 203uc.

Rafal D5

Thanks guys for replies ,checked it with builder, its old 200ish mm concrete block on flat + plaster + finish both sides 250mm all togeather, house built in 1950s. 152x152 would work in this case, but 203 aswell. But 2000eur for work sounds expensive or not?

BryanF

Rafal D5 wrote: »

Thanks guys for replies ,checked it with builder, its old 200ish mm concrete block on flat + plaster + finish both sides 250mm all togeather, house built in 1950s. 152x152 would work in this case, but 203 aswell. But 2000eur for work sounds expensive or not?

Ring up a steel supplier and price the steel separately ?what has the eng specified ?

Rafal D5

steel is 120eur+Vat, eng specs were uc 152x152 2m long min 150mm for bearing

kieran.

Cost would be reasonable there's a lot of work involved in making an opening in an existing wall.
Sample description of works.

Needle block work and provide temporary supports to firsts floor block work
Temp support to first floor joists ( both designed by the builder temp works designer)
Con saw out sides to form opening. (215mm solid wall wall will be SLOW work).
Break out existing block work and dispose.
Form returns for beam bearing.
Insert beam level and square.
Shot fire in grounds for plasterboard and enclose beam in p/board.
Plaster & skim over new plasterboard. Ensure you stripped back the existing plaster so that you can get 150 mm of expanded metal lathing from the new work on to the old, this will help avoid cracks at the old/new joint in future.
Plaster existing wall reveals.
Paint/decorate

Gumbo

kieran. wrote: »

Cost would be reasonable there's a lot of work involved in making an opening in an existing wall.
Sample description of works.

Needle block work and provide temporary supports your firsts floor block work
Temp support to first floor joists ( both designed by the builder temp works designer)
Con saw out sides to form opening. (215mm solid wall wall will be SLOW work).
Break out existing block work and dispose.
Form returns for beam bearing.
Insert beam level and square.
Shot fire in grounds for plasterboard and enclose beam in p/board.
Plaster over new plaster work. Ensure you stripped back the existing plaster so that you can get 150 mm if expanded metal lathing from he new work on to the old this will help avoid cracks at the old/new joint in future.
Paint/decorate

Kieran, are you an actual builder?
Do you work for yourself? Price the jobs yourself?

PM if you don't want to answer on the public forum?

kieran.

kceire wrote: »

Kieran, are you an actual builder?
Do you work for yourself? Price the jobs yourself?

PM if you don't want to answer on the public forum?

Im an Arch tech. Price work part time for a few builders.