Dishwasher won't start

Xcellor

I carried out a repair on my dishwasher changing heating element and temperature probe. This solved the issue and was able to get a few washes out it without problems.

I went to start it today and while lights and program selector is working when I close the door (integrated so starts when the door closes) it does nothing. I checked all the connections that were involved in the job above, everything properly seated. At first I thought it was the door switch mechanism so I peeled apart and tested the circuit and continuity is OK. I tested the voltage and its about 12V. Does this sound on the low side?

Bit of a loss as to whats wrong. Any ideas?

TOEJOE

May I suggest you give the make and model of the dishwasher some times the cable on the door breaks as you open the door there is sometimes a loom of wire that has to bend as you open the door one of these wires my have broken I'm no expert but have repaired my own diswasher. If you give the model someone might be able to help you good luck.

John T Carroll

Xcellor wrote: »

I carried out a repair on my dishwasher changing heating element and temperature probe. This solved the issue and was able to get a few washes out it without problems.

I went to start it today and while lights and program selector is working when I close the door (integrated so starts when the door closes) it does nothing. I checked all the connections that were involved in the job above, everything properly seated. At first I thought it was the door switch mechanism so I peeled apart and tested the circuit and continuity is OK. I tested the voltage and its about 12V. Does this sound on the low side?

Bit of a loss as to whats wrong. Any ideas?

One should expect to see 230V between one side of the contacts and N (or E).

John T Carroll

TOEJOE wrote: »

May I suggest you give the make and model of the dishwasher some times the cable on the door breaks as you open the door there is sometimes a loom of wire that has to bend as you open the door one of these wires my have broken I'm no expert but have repaired my own diswasher. If you give the model someone might be able to help you good luck.

It was a common problem on the Whirlpool, on my integtated 7560/1; I used to remove the timber front door (4 securing screws) and when the door is partially open if you look up underneath it you will see if the plastic tray is cracked, if so, you will normally find that one of the wires is broken, I patched mine up for 4 years before renewing it after a very hard 8 or 9 years of use.

Xcellor

It's a candy 1012 unit.

I pulled it out and tested the power in there is a suppressor and I measured the voltage, going in 220V coming out the other side (going to the power switch) 12-13V (so this is the max the unit will receive) http://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/candy/dishwashers/cdi1012%2002/suppressor/129059.htm

I put it all back together again and went to start it and it initiated for like a second before conking out as if it rebooted, it was back as if no program had been selected.

I would toss it in the bin but I've spend 50 euro and had it working it's bloody frustrating.

Xcellor

John T Carroll wrote: »

It was a common problem on the Whirlpool, on my integtated 7560/1; I used to remove the timber front door (4 securing screws) and when the door is partially open if you look up underneath it you will see if the plastic tray is cracked, if so, you will normally find that one of the wires is broken, I patched mine up for 4 years before renewing it after a very hard 8 or 9 years of use.

I've looked at all the cables and tested the power going from the power switch to the door switch, when the switch is pushed in (door closed) the circuit completes and power then goes to the control board. There is no sign of damage / corrosion.

John T Carroll

Xcellor wrote: »

It's a candy 1012 unit.

I pulled it out and tested the power in there is a suppressor and I measured the voltage, going in 220V coming out the other side (going to the power switch) 12-13V (so this is the max the unit will receive) http://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/candy/dishwashers/cdi1012%2002/suppressor/129059.htm

I put it all back together again and went to start it and it initiated for like a second before conking out as if it rebooted, it was back as if no program had been selected.

I would toss it in the bin but I've spend 50 euro and had it working it's bloody frustrating.

I think of a suppressor as a sort of electrical filter/capacitor, to rule it out (new or not) can you by pass it temporarily as a test?? I think this has been done before, I did it on a electric drill years ago but of course we are talking about two different appliances!.
Its sort of strange that your problems started out after changing a few components.

Xcellor

It seems to be some sort of loose connection, if I slam the door a few times it seems to work... I can't see what it could be though.

Even when it wasn't working there was voltage reaching the control board, that's what made me think it was an issue with how much voltage was reaching it but the fact that if it gets a bang it starts working means it's more likely to be somethign physical i.e. bad connection.

Xcellor

John T Carroll wrote: »

I think of a suppressor as a sort of electrical filter/capacitor, to rule it out (new or not) can you by pass it temporarily as a test?? I think this has been done before, I did it on a electric drill years ago but of course we are talking about two different appliances!.
Its sort of strange that your problems started out after changing a few components.

The suppressor seems to step down the voltage, bypassing it would likely fry components. I don't know what the normal voltage inside should be and without a point of reference it's just guess work

Xcellor

Looking more and more like a bad connection somewhere in the door. If I shut the door gently it won't start but if I allow it to spring back and close with a bang the majority of the time it will start.

Guess ill be stripping it down again to take another look!!

John T Carroll

Xcellor wrote: »

It seems to be some sort of loose connection, if I slam the door a few times it seems to work... I can't see what it could be though.

Even when it wasn't working there was voltage reaching the control board, that's what made me think it was an issue with how much voltage was reaching it but the fact that if it gets a bang it starts working means it's more likely to be somethign physical i.e. bad connection.

Would be inclined to agree there, when my wiring harness started to break down initially, I frig-ed the door switch and depending on which position the door was in, then it would start up again....thats what led me to the cracked plastic cable carrier under the door, I found out later that its a very common problem on the W.Pool.
EDIT: I actually ran a independent fused 230V suppy to the input side of the door switch and the machine started its cycle, I then found that the main supply cable in the wiring loom was almost completely broken.

Xcellor wrote: »

The suppressor seems to step down the voltage, bypassing it would likely fry components. I don't know what the normal voltage inside should be and without a point of reference it's just guess work

Obviously you dont want to fry anything but on my machine (W/Pool) there certainly was 230V going to all components including the control card, if I checked between any of the card terminals and N or E, I got 230V.

Xcellor

John T Carroll wrote: »

Would be inclined to agree there, when my wiring harness started to break down initially, I frig-ed the door switch and depending on which position the door was in, then it would start up again....thats what led me to the cracked plastic cable carrier under the door, I found out later that its a very common problem on the W.Pool.
EDIT: I actually ran a independent fused 230V suppy to the input side of the door switch and the machine started its cycle, I then found that the main supply cable in the wiring loom was almost completely broken.



Obviously you dont want to fry anything but on my machine (W/Pool) there certainly was 230V going to all components including the control card, if I checked between any of the card terminals and N or E, I got 230V.

I checked the voltage while it was running, the areas around the control board and switch are ~ 12 V

I think it's a sensor that might be the problem, maybe water level sensor I was adjusting the feet ever so slightly when it was on and it would turn off and on.

I've ruled out power switch, supressor, cabling.

TOEJOE

Hi I know you have an on/off problem this might suggest the loom under the door.If you have this loom switch off the machine remove panel and (pull each individual wire where it bends at the door) this still may be the problem its difficult to test for continuity for these wires.

roverrules

Had a weird problem, not dissimilar to the description, on my zanussi there is a leak sensor and an auto water shut-off, water had accumulated in the under tray and the washer would work if I slammed the door ( I assume a little water was sloshing out of the tray and resetting the sensor) or after a warm day or two some water would evaporate off and I'd actually get nearly a complete cycle out of it.

TLR: don't rule anything out.

John T Carroll

roverrules wrote: »

Had a weird problem, not dissimilar to the description, on my zanussi there is a leak sensor and an auto water shut-off, water had accumulated in the under tray and the washer would work if I slammed the door ( I assume a little water was sloshing out of the tray and resetting the sensor) or after a warm day or two some water would evaporate off and I'd actually get nearly a complete cycle out of it.

TLR: don't rule anything out.

Thats a very good point re the leak sensor in view of the fact that the OP changed the heating element and a temperature sensor and got a few trouble free washes before the problems started, I think that leak sensor is common on a lot of or most machines? but as you said don't rule anything out.

Xcellor

OK went at it again with a clear head and examined a few things I had "checked off". There were a bunch of cables that went from the door underneath the dishwasher that would be moved every time the door was opened... They were covered with some black tape so was fairly sure they would be OK but decided to take the black tape off and have a look.

A live cable and earth cable were completely severed, I'm guessing at various points they could touch but then stop touching. Anyway, I used connector block and put the earth and live together and wrapped it up again... It seems to be consistently starting now, just putting on a test run to go through a cycle completely.

Anyway that has to be at least one major problem fixed! If I get another year out of it I'd be happy! Thanks for the help, pointed me in the right direction!