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Mechanical to digital 1 channel wiring

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  • 27-03-2016 7:47pm
    #1
    irelandhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭


    Our flash timer switch for central heating broke!

    I got a digital programmer to replace the flash timer. I was doing the wiring and have gotten to the point where the heating can stay on however I cannot get it to turn off! I gather it's to do with my wiring!

    Attached is what has been done so far....if anyone can lend some advice please it would be great....the cable coming from the isolation switch is a 3 core....the one going out to boiler is a 4 core...


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    #2
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    The link to 4 is ok, but usually it would be the only wire into 4.

    The live being switched on by the timer would be into 3.

    Only if a switched live out is the setup though. If its a pair being switched on such as a control loop from the boiler, they would be connected to 3 and 4.

    What is the blue you have in 3?, and the brown you have in 4 with the link? Maybe what should be the switched live, in with the link, and so always on?

    A photo of the old timer before starting would have been a good idea.


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    #3
    irelandhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭irelandhouse


    cheers for that.

    Please see photos I had taken that were connecting the timer.
    Bruthal wrote: »
    The link to 4 is ok, but usually it would be the only wire into 4.

    The live being switched on by the timer would be into 3.

    Only if a switched live out is the setup though. If its a pair being switched on such as a control loop from the boiler, they would be connected to 3 and 4.

    What is the blue you have in 3?, and the brown you have in 4 with the link? Maybe what should be the switched live, in with the link, and so always on?

    A photo of the old timer before starting would have been a good idea.


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    #4
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


      The photos of the original setup are not very clear, in that they needed to show slightly clesrer what wire is into what connector from the timer.

      The blue core on its own in the original setup does not appear to be the same one that is on its own in the new setup. In the original, the 3 blues may be divided over 2 connectors because they were too big to get into a single connector, and are possibly linked by a link on other side of connectors. If so, they should all be in the same N terminal of the new timer. But you never know what people may have done previously. Again, a good photo would have shown this.


      It would be a simple task for an electrician at the timer location.

      Anyway, you could try putting the 3 blues in together in the N terminal of the new timer, and move the brown in terminal 4 into 3, leaving the red link on its own in terminal 4. And see if that works. Disconnect circuit first of course.

      If that doesnt fix, get someone in might be next, although that might fix it.


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