Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Holly tree trouble.

Options
  • 17-05-2016 11:41am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭


    Hi there, I transplanted a holly tree that looked to be stunted and not growing out as it should. I prepared a decent hole for it and when I went to dig it out I discovered the reason for it's condition. It was planted in rocks ! This meant that I had huge problems trying to get all the roots without damaging them but as I had begun I had to continue. There was some damage to the roots but I had hoped there would be enough to keep it going. However that was 2 weeks ago and since then all the leaves have been turning black and falling off. It is about 4 and a half feet tall and the hole I dug was fairly large and I put in some compost with blood and bone mixed in. I have kept it well watered since but to no avail. My question, is it fckd ? or is there hope that it may come back.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    What size tree is it? Did you keep the roots very damp while out of the ground? Did you damage any of the roots? When you say well watered what do you mean?

    2 weeks ago is a bit late in the season to transplant a tree and fine root hairs may well have been damaged.


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Foleyart


    Hi Oldtree,thanks for the reply. As I said in the original post the tree is about four and a half feet tall and I am aware that some of the roots were damaged when I dug it up. The reasons for that were the rocks it was planted in. It was not going to do well where it was situated and was very narrow without much outward growth. By well watered I mean every day, and I know that it was not the right time of year for transplanting but I thought I might get away with it. I am just wondering will it recover. ?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,529 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    did you get any sort of rootball out, or was it bare root by the time you were replanting it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Foleyart


    I got some of the rootball out with it, as much as I could under the circumstances. But it had burrowed deep in amongst the rocks and it was impossible to get it all cleanly. About eight inches with straggling roots, some chopped.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    Foleyart wrote: »
    As I said in the original post the tree is about four and a half feet tall

    :D missed that bit. hollys can be difficult to move at the best of times. It may come back somewhat, you could just wait and see.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    Foleyart wrote: »
    I got some of the rootball out with it, as much as I could under the circumstances. But it had burrowed deep in amongst the rocks and it was impossible to get it all cleanly. About eight inches with straggling roots, some chopped.

    What he is asking is were the roots exposed or were they covered in soil in one clump i.e. rootball with all the soil intact.

    Edit to say; you can transplant certain trees plants anytime of year, but you need to make sure to take the whole rootball with soil intact, there is a caveat you need to look after the plant well after transplanting and watering a plant everyday is overkill (every 2 or 3 days is fine), but that's unlikely to kill i.
    How much bone meal did you use and did you mix it in well with the soil?


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Foleyart


    Howdy guys, greatly appreciate the replies. Yes Hoof Hearted, I did get some of the rootball out surrounded by about eight inches of soil, however there were longer roots which were cut and dangling from the rootball. I just couldn't get underneath the rocks to extract them cleanly. Oh well, we live in hope and I will take care not to over water it. Thanks again


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,455 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    I moved a prostrate hydrangea that was in full leaf and had flower buds! The roots got sadly mangled as it had to be pulled up pretty much. I replanted it and turned the hose to a trickle and left it for a couple of hours. I did the same again a few days later. I also cut off a lot of branch tips (soft new growth). It is looking fine and the flowers that were left are starting to open.

    I think cutting off the ends of the branches - the new growth - is vital when moving trees and shrubs like that, it reduces the stress of having to support the fragile new leaves.

    I have also recently moved a large lilac in leaf, treated it the same and it is sending out new growth good-oh. Looks fine.

    That is not to say they will automatically survive the year, they will have to be watered all summer and they could still give up the ghost, but still, they had to be moved so it was worth taking a chance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    looksee wrote: »
    I moved a prostrate hydrangea that was in full leaf and had flower buds! The roots got sadly mangled as it had to be pulled up pretty much. I replanted it and turned the hose to a trickle and left it for a couple of hours. I did the same again a few days later. I also cut off a lot of branch tips (soft new growth). It is looking fine and the flowers that were left are starting to open.

    I think cutting off the ends of the branches - the new growth - is vital when moving trees and shrubs like that, it reduces the stress of having to support the fragile new leaves.

    I have also recently moved a large lilac in leaf, treated it the same and it is sending out new growth good-oh. Looks fine.

    That is not to say they will automatically survive the year, they will have to be watered all summer and they could still give up the ghost, but still, they had to be moved so it was worth taking a chance.

    Interesting point re: pruning when transplanting, with a holly or Hydangea for example, you could and probably should prune the plant by half after transplanting it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    I would treat shrubs and trees differently.

    Trees for example can die from shock if over a third is removed in one go.

    You could prune the roots by approx the same amount that you prune the top of the tree, but again max at a third, to re-balance the tree.

    I have transplanted a few young hollies and they didnt like it and a few died.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    Oldtree wrote: »
    I would treat shrubs and trees differently.

    Trees for example can die from shock if over a third is removed in one go.

    You could prune the roots by approx the same amount that you prune the top of the tree, but again max at a third, to re-balance the tree.

    I have transplanted a few young hollies and they didnt like it and a few died.
    Yes trees should be treated differently to shrubs, agreed with hollies not been the best transplanter, but pruning them by about a third to a half, should decrease the stress on the plant after transplanting and increase it's probability of transplant success.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    The rule of thumb of pruning of a third as a maximum, is used to allow sufficient growing points for the tree to function normally(ish) after planting when the sap rises, to allow the tree take its natural shape. rather than relying on adventicious buds to reform the tree's shape.

    More sensitive trees, such as Birch, should be pruned much less than a third.


  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    Oldtree wrote: »
    The rule of thumb of pruning of a third as a maximum, is used to allow sufficient growing points for the tree to function normally(ish) after planting when the sap rises, to allow the tree take its natural shape. rather than relying on adventicious buds to reform the tree's shape.

    More sensitive trees, such as Birch, should be pruned much less than a third.

    Just as well we are talking about shrubs then;):pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    Just as well we are talking about shrubs then;):pac:

    yes it is :D

    Anfry_tree.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Foleyart


    Just a quick update on my holly. It seems to be starting to come on again. It lost a few leaves initially and a lot of them turned quite black but that stopped eventually and I can now see new growth coming on.:) Thanks for all your help.


Advertisement