Danish Oil still the best for tabletop?

Ro-76

I know this question comes up regularly in different forms, but I'm interested to know if there are any better options available.

I've got an oak kitchen table top, completely bare and untreated new wood. I'm planning to use danish oil and apply 4-5 coats before its first use.

Are there any other or better options? I don't want a lacquered or varnished finish that might chip and I don't really mind having to re-coat it once or twice a year.

Thx

recipio

Ro-76 wrote: »

I know this question comes up regularly in different forms, but I'm interested to know if there are any better options available.

I've got an oak kitchen table top, completely bare and untreated new wood. I'm planning to use danish oil and apply 4-5 coats before its first use.

Are there any other or better options? I don't want a lacquered or varnished finish that might chip and I don't really mind having to re-coat it once or twice a year.

Thx

Danish oil is a mixture of oil and synthetic driers. I've used it of small projects but it isn't easy to use. Its vital to wipe off any excess carefully otherwise the finish will 'gum up' when it dries.
I get a good finish from a quality polyurethane like Ronseal and a quality varnish brush. Poly will not chip and will stand up to any abuse. There are newer oil/wax combinations like osmopolyx but I must confess I haven't used them.

Ro-76

recipio wrote: »

Danish oil is a mixture of oil and synthetic driers. I've used it of small projects but it isn't easy to use. Its vital to wipe off any excess carefully otherwise the finish will 'gum up' when it dries.
I get a good finish from a quality polyurethane like Ronseal and a quality varnish brush. Poly will not chip and will stand up to any abuse. There are newer oil/wax combinations like osmopolyx but I must confess I haven't used them.

I'm more interested in the oil option than a sealant like polyurethane.

I had heard of osmo polyx alright, but like you, not from anyone who has actually used it.

recipio

Ro-76 wrote: »

I'm more interested in the oil option than a sealant like polyurethane.

I had heard of osmo polyx alright, but like you, not from anyone who has actually used it.

I appreciate your reasoning but a matt polyurethane will look essentially like an oil finish.Its vital to apply it with a good brush. It will also mellow with time and stand up to abuse much better. Sometimes you just want to 'do and forget' - the old rule of oil finishing is once a day for a week,once a week for a month and once a year after that.It would drive me mad frankly.:D

Alun

I agree with recipio. I'm a woodturner, and although I prefer more natural oil and wax based finishes for non functional items, for stuff like tables and work tops modern PU finishes have them beat hands down in practical terms. For craft items it's form over function for me, for everyday practical use, the other way round. In fact, I wouldn't give wooden kitchen work top house room ... melamine all the way for me

tabby aspreme

If you decide to use Danish oil, thin it 50/50 with white spirit for the first few coats , the first coat is slow to dry ,after that it gets tacky in about 30 minutes, burn the cloths or let them dry out flat after you use them , don't leave them in a ball or they may self combust

recipio

Have a look at the Zinsser range of products - made in the US but now available in some paint shops. The Yanks are fond of starting with a Shellac topcoat and using virtually any finish over that.It might cut down the time spent on an oil finish.