Hammer N4400 Tracking Issue

Swift66

Hello,

I recently purchased a Hammer N4400 and had been working with a 6mm blade, which, as per manual instructions I had tracked in the centre of both wheels.

I bought a 12mm 3/4 vary tooth premium blade from Tuff Saws and again followed the N4400 manual:

As it’s over 10mm the tips of the saw teeth have to protrude over the wheel edges.

(Now leaving a 12mm blade’s teeth protruding over the wheels edges would leave dangerously little blade band on the wheels so I took this to mean over the tyre’s edge in this instance)


No matter how I tracked and tensioned the blade would stay riding with the tips of the teeth over the tyre on the top wheel but 2.5mm in on the bottom wheel. (the closest I could get the blade to ride to the edge)

I have made some test cuts and the saw is ripping very accurately with next to no drift over 900mm and the blade does not seem to be wandering at all on top or bottom wheel.

Has anyone else had this experience ?

Should I just leave it as it is?

I have tried centre tracking and there was a similar discrepancy between top and bottom blade positions, but obviously I’d rather follow the manual’s instructions. I haven’t heard back from Felder yet.

All advice appreciated. Paul

Calahonda52

Anything in the manual about "tracking" the top and bottom wheels?
I have a Startrite and I recall in a book I bought about b-saws the tracking idea, will look tomorrow, I also recall that wider blades harder to track on crowned tires.
What width is the wheel and what is max capacity blade: 25 or 30mm perhaps..
The other point is that as long as it stays doing what it is and u adjust the fence to eliminate drift, then happy days.
Of course for important work with expensive stock you need to check drift:)
HTH

recipio

Generally its a bad idea to change the factory settings. Whatever the manual says, its nearly impossible to get any blade under 10mm to track with the teeth just clearing the rubber band.I stick to a 3/4" blade but I have the luxury of having a smaller bandsaw for curved cuts. Have you a 1/2" blade to try out ?

Swift66

Thanks for replies.

Recipio this was a 12mm blade. Felder Rep has got back to say run all blades centrally - so must be a manual typo - imagine!!

Cannot wait to have a second saw for curves, as yet a distant dream. I'm stuck with re-tracking and adjusting for different radiuses.

Cheers, enjoy the sun

recipio

Swift66 wrote: »

Thanks for replies.

Recipio this was a 12mm blade. Felder Rep has got back to say run all blades centrally - so must be a manual typo - imagine!!

Cannot wait to have a second saw for curves, as yet a distant dream. I'm stuck with re-tracking and adjusting for different radiuses.

Cheers, enjoy the sun

Good that you got a response. On my older bandsaw I have been running the blade centrally on the crown and it hasn't done the rubber tyres any harm.

twig tickler

Hi guys
Just wondering has anyone changed tyres on these bandsaws? I changed mine last week but i'm not getting clean cuts since. I have a tried both 10 mm and 6 mm new blades but the cuts are very rough. I make a lot of bandsaw boxes so i really dont need the extra sanding. I have tracked to the center of the top wheel and have guides in the positions i have always used (last 4 years) but i'm getting a bit of a shudder when i feed the wood. Any ideas or help would be great ????

kadman

Sounds like a poorly joined blade. Often happens.

Whats the tooth arrangement of the blades.