Aritech CS450 pin diagram showing zone contacts

starshine1234

I managed to factory reset my Aritech 450 alarm using instructions found on this forum.

I seem to have a 450 alarm rather than the 350 alarm as I have 10 zones and not 6. The same keypad is used for both the 350 and 450 alarm.

When I open the big box with all the wires I cannot tell which contacts on the circuit board are used for which zones.

So I have 10 zones which would need 20 contacts. Does anyone know what number pins correspond to what zones etc?



Also, I have searched the internet for hours and can't find any wiring diagrams for Aritech sensors. I have inertia sensors with both alarm and tamper contacts, four contacts in total.
It seems the alarm contacts are the two outside contacts and the two inner contacts are for the tamper circuit.
Is there anywhere I can download the sensor wiring diagrams so I can confirm for certain how it works?


I also have large sensors, in pairs, which appear to be magnetic contacts. Again, these also seem to have tamper circuits but I'm less sure about them. Is there anywhere I can get information about the sensors and how they are wired? I have searched the internet for this and cannot find it.


Thanks for any help with this.

kub

As you are a new poster you might be restricted as to putting up pictures etc

https://www.google.ie/search?q=aritech+gs+612&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwioy-nE6M3NAhWLJ8AKHfV7DQcQ_AUICCgB&biw=1525&bih=709&dpr=0.9

So are your sensors similar to any of the above?

KoolKid

Hi,
I have PMed you the manual for the CS450. There is a diagram in there for all the connections in the panel etc.
If you need help with the sensor connections point us to which ones you have from the link Kub posted.

starshine1234

Thanks for the help!

I haven't received any PMs except for the 'Welcome to Boards' one I got. Could you check that please KoolKid?

My inertia sensors are like the third picture from the left in the top row of Kub's search. That picture shows two sensors; my inertia sensors are like the bigger of the two pieces. Six contacts inside.

I understand the system better now. There's connector boxes with coiled cable and loads of wires inside and previously I thought they were magnetic sensors but now I think they're just on the doors and Velux windows to allow the doors and windows to be opened. Things make more sense now overall.


I only have one zone showing as open now. It has three shock sensors and some tamper sensors. All connections seem ok.

I'm not 100% certain if the system is set up as alarm loops only or dual loops. Changing this doesn't make much difference. I can see end of line resistors wired in series with some alarm loops which suggests alarm I think.


Very little range of sensors with only two magnetic contact sensors in total, and 11 shock sensors, and nothing else except tamper loops.

KoolKid

I have sent again.
Let me know if you get it ok.

starshine1234

I've received the manual, thank you KoolKid! The pin layout is very useful. Zones 1 to 6 are placed together on the main board but zones 7 to 10 are on a seperate expansion board. The manual is needed to confirm those details.


I still have open zone in zone 2. Tried some things but still open. I think I'll have to bypass the sensors one by one.


I have a loose wire in the main alarm box.
The bell is connected to pin 14, and pin 14 is connected to pin 15 with a resistor.
Pin 14 is bell hold off.
Pin 15 bell tamper loop.
I have a wire, with a prepared end, which looks like it has previously been attached somwhere, perhaps to pin 15 or thereabouts. The wire is from the same cable as the bell.
I wonder what it might be?
The external bell does sound and light up if the alarm goes off. So the loose wire doesn't seem to be affecting the bell.



Pin 23 and 24 are for internal bell. I have two wires going to each pin. I have an internal siren attached to the ceiling, and it works nicely.
I wonder do I also have a second internal bell?



Zone 1 doesn't chime when I open and close the door. Zone attributes say 'InCh', zone type 'entry/exit'. Nothing happens when I open the door in standby mode.


Alarm type is set to 'Alarm' and not to 'Dual Loops'. Seems to be ok.


Thanks for all the help, it's very useful.

KoolKid

I'dI'd say the spare wire on its own goes into 14 bell hold off. Leave the resistor in place.
The second pair of wires into internal siren is for the strobe.
Is there any resistors in the panel at the zone connections?
We will probablyprobably need to go over the open zones sensor by sensor to find the problem there. Is there anything obvious like a magnet missing from a door or window.?

altor

starshine1234 wrote: »

I've received the manual, thank you KoolKid! The pin layout is very useful. Zones 1 to 6 are placed together on the main board but zones 7 to 10 are on a seperate expansion board. The manual is needed to confirm those details.


I still have open zone in zone 2. Tried some things but still open. I think I'll have to bypass the sensors one by one.


I have a loose wire in the main alarm box.
The bell is connected to pin 14, and pin 14 is connected to pin 15 with a resistor.
Pin 14 is bell hold off.
Pin 15 bell tamper loop.
I have a wire, with a prepared end, which looks like it has previously been attached somwhere, perhaps to pin 15 or thereabouts. The wire is from the same cable as the bell.
I wonder what it might be?
The external bell does sound and light up if the alarm goes off. So the loose wire doesn't seem to be affecting the bell.



Pin 23 and 24 are for internal bell. I have two wires going to each pin. I have an internal siren attached to the ceiling, and it works nicely.
I wonder do I also have a second internal bell?



Zone 1 doesn't chime when I open and close the door. Zone attributes say 'InCh', zone type 'entry/exit'. Nothing happens when I open the door in standby mode.


Alarm type is set to 'Alarm' and not to 'Dual Loops'. Seems to be ok.


Thanks for all the help, it's very useful.

Have you any PIRs on the system?

starshine1234

Hi.

No, I don't have any PIRs; just two magnetic door sensors and twelve shock sensors, on five zones. I'll think I'll install a PIR myself in the main hallway.

There's four core cable going around the house but only two wires are used, which leaves spare capacity for new sensors.

One zone is still showing an open zone. I used a multimeter and checked resistance to check continuity. I found a shock sensor where the shock sensor part itself shows an infinite resistance; all the others show a zero resistance. So I removed that sensor and joined the wires together but I still have an open zone.

I checked for continuity across larger parts of the system; for example across one sensor and two connecting boxes. I can't find anything. Zero readings for resistance all the way.

I was out of options but today I thought that if I disconnect both wires from the control box I can join them together and I can then check continuity from the main box to the first sensor along both wires. I haven't had a chance to do that yet. If that reads as zero I'll have to come up with something else.

I suppose I should also put a resistor across the terminals at the control box to rule out a faulty main board. It's very unlikely but I have spare resistors in the main box so I should try that as well.

Thanks for the help.

altor

starshine1234 wrote: »

Hi.

No, I don't have any PIRs; just two magnetic door sensors and twelve shock sensors, on five zones. I'll think I'll install a PIR myself in the main hallway.

There's four core cable going around the house but only two wires are used, which leaves spare capacity for new sensors.

One zone is still showing an open zone. I used a multimeter and checked resistance to check continuity. I found a shock sensor where the shock sensor part itself shows an infinite resistance; all the others show a zero resistance. So I removed that sensor and joined the wires together but I still have an open zone.

I checked for continuity across larger parts of the system; for example across one sensor and two connecting boxes. I can't find anything. Zero readings for resistance all the way.

I was out of options but today I thought that if I disconnect both wires from the control box I can join them together and I can then check continuity from the main box to the first sensor along both wires. I haven't had a chance to do that yet. If that reads as zero I'll have to come up with something else.

I suppose I should also put a resistor across the terminals at the control box to rule out a faulty main board. It's very unlikely but I have spare resistors in the main box so I should try that as well.

Thanks for the help.

Minimum requirements for a standard PIR would be 4 core.
2 for power and 2 for the alarm. If the zone is set up as duel end of line you can incorporate the tamper also.

If there is only one cable and using two cores then you should be able to close off the zone in the control panel and check backwards from the panel on the loop to find the open device.

Are you sure you joined the cable correctly as if the system has been setting beforehand it might be the issue.

Yes if you do that and the zone closes then you know its either a cable or sensor issue.

starshine1234

If I put a resistor across the terminals at the main control box the zone fixes itself and no longer shows an open zone.

I'll make more checks.

KoolKid

Checking the whole zone you could not be getting zero resistance.
What setting have you the multimeter on. Ideally set it at 200 ohms and have the resistors removed from the loop.
It is possible to put a PiR and a zone correctly onto a 4 core cable incorporation duel EOL & tampers providing the PiR is location before any of the windows/doors on the loop.

starshine1234

I've looked at the dual type setup, where the alarm loop has a resistor in pararell and the tamper loop has a resistor in series.

I don't think two wires is enough if you have more than one sensor, seperated by a physical distance. I know the manual shows how to connect two alarm switches and one tamper switch all using just two wires and two resistors in a dual loop setup but I don't think that can be extended to multiple alarm and tamper sensors, physically seperated from one another, with just two wires.

starshine1234

I wasn't measuring the whole loop.

I disconnected one wire from the main control board. I then checked for continuity across short sections of the wiring; for exampe across a few connecting boxes and a sensor. I get zero resistance readings with multimeter set at 200 ohms say.

So I can't find a problem.


Today, I thought if I disconnect both wires from the main panel I can join them together, and breakthe loop somewhere else; for example at the EOL resistor, and then I can make more checks. I'm making those checks now.




About the dual loop thing.
I've looked at the dual type setup, where the alarm loop has a resistor in pararell and the tamper loop has a resistor in series.

I don't think two wires is enough if you have more than one sensor, seperated by a physical distance.
I know the manual shows how to connect two alarm switches and one tamper switch all using just two wires and two resistors in a dual loop setup but I don't think that can be extended to multiple alarm and tamper sensors, physically seperated from one another, with just two wires.

The problem is that the resistor in paralell with the alarm loop can't be installed at the main board, as then it's also in paralell with the series loop resistor.

Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong but I don't think I need dual loops for a domestic alarm. I can see the usefulness for a public building like a school or library.

KoolKid

starshine1234 wrote: »

I've looked at the dual type setup, where the alarm loop has a resistor in pararell and the tamper loop has a resistor in series.

I don't think two wires is enough if you have more than one sensor, seperated by a physical distance. I know the manual shows how to connect two alarm switches and one tamper switch all using just two wires and two resistors in a dual loop setup but I don't think that can be extended to multiple alarm and tamper sensors, physically seperated from one another, with just two wires.

You use a third core to extend the parallel resistor across the zone from the first device to the last.