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CZ452 bolt replacement

  • 09-07-2016 8:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭


    Looking to get a new bolt for my 452 style, how do you go about getting this?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    anyone know? I'm assuming you have to order through a dealer?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    You just want to order an aftermarket bolt for your CZ? Is that it?

    That shouldn't be too hard/difficult. You can order trough your dealer or get it in directly yourself. There is a company/chap in the UK doing these.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    Just need a new bolt - old one is starting to fail.

    Do you have the name of the company in the UK? Are there issues with going for a non CZ one?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭cookimonster


    Ezra,

    Off topic but, in what way is it beginning to fail?........I only ask as a long time Brno owner !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    Fell off a shelf, landed on a wet rag. Sat there for a while.
    Now very, very rusty and seizing up.


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Hey Ezra.

    Still cannot find the link i had before. When i do find it i'll post it.

    In the meantime a little advice. If this happened recently then it's surface rust. Should be able to be removed easy enough.

    Strip the bolt down into it's various parts. Here is a quick video on how to.




    Submerge/soak in oil. Clean well with a nylon (non abrasive) brush. Soak with oil again (in fact keep it soaked throughout cleaning. Move to a clean dish, and soak in oil again. Allow it to sit a little then clean again. One last time move it to a new dish, soak in oil and this time let it sit without cleaning.

    After an hour or so lift up the part and try to hang them as best you can and allow them to drip into the dish. Now spray with an aerosol canister of oil. Allow to drip again. Use a clean fresh cloth to dry it off. Let it sit for an hour or so and when dry check to see if the rust has been removed. If you see any surface rust repeat the process.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    Thanks Cass - I'd love to do that but I don't have such cheesy music!

    In all seriousness, happened a while back but happy to try. Any preference on the oil?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Let mute be your friend. :D

    Brunox is my oil of preference lately. Good quality oil. For the soaking i'd use Brunox but if you are low on gun oil then any clean oil will do. It's just important you keep it well oiled while cleaning so the oil can get into every crevasse. When you come to the last cleaning then switch to the gun oil.

    You can use WD40 on some of the part that are bad like the bolt knob/handle. WD40 is a penetrant as well as a lubricant. Some say it can strip the finish on blued metal, and if it gets onto the stock the finish/laquer. I've never had this issue, but then again i can count on one hand the amount of times i've used it.

    If you do use it then make sure to clean the crap out of it after with a good gun oil. Leave no trace of the WD40.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,042 ✭✭✭Luckysasha


    We use spray oils in work to carry out preventive maintenance on moving parts. The best spray on the market at the moment is Tec 7. Far superior to WD40. Most electrical or engineering suppliers will have it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭cookimonster


    Don't right the bolt off, you'd be surprised how a bit of TLC will work wonders on any bolt.
    I rescued my rifle from years of neglect in a lads attic and although in good nick the bolt wasn't smooth to operate. Strip down, clean and re-oil and 30 years later she's still as smooth as silk.
    The bolt design are one of the easiest to strip, the firing pin is a lump of a thing and the spring is fairly robust, just insure the internal bore of the bolt is well free of rust.
    Best of luck but I'm 100% you won't need to rush out and buy another.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    Here is the bolt after cleaning with oil and a nail brush.

    Can I get it back closer to original and get the black stain off? Lot of rust on the firing pin that has vanished

    391904.jpg
    391905.jpg
    391906.jpg
    391907.jpg
    391908.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭ezra_


    Couple more images:

    391909.jpg
    391910.jpg


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