Valve clearance

Richard tea · 19-07-2016 1:20am #1

My NC is due a Valve clearance check. Its due at 16k & I have just done 17k. There is a good youtube guide for this but its a little unnerving to attempt. The bike runs fine and has no problems. Should I ignore the check?

If I do attempt it, is it easy to get the right feel. Not too tight & not too loose. Generally speaking will you know when it feels too tight or loose?

I have a feeler gauge and all tools needed. I think next inspection is due at 24k. I clock up around 18k per year so bringing it to a garage will cost a bomb.

gctest50 · 19-07-2016 1:25am

do it wrong and you'll make bits of valves n seats n stuff though

Richard tea · 19-07-2016 1:54am

Thats the guide alright. Its a good step by step.

CJhaughey · 19-07-2016 10:15am

DIY it, looks like easy access and a piece of piss to do.
http://nc700-forum.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/2919-valve-clearance-check.html

my3cents · 19-07-2016 10:35am

OP, even if the clearances are all spot on they do need checking the reason being that most honda stuff will work fine right up to the edge of the tolerance and run like crap when just out. You have no idea if your well running engine is spot on in the middle of the tolerance range or just on the edge getting near to causing problems.

Richard tea · 19-07-2016 11:50am

Yeah ill give it a blast on my next weekend off. Ill report back afterwards. Thanks all

Richard tea · 20-07-2016 8:20pm

A little info needed on the feeler gauge please. The one I have doesn't exactly match the size I need. Is it normal practice to put 2 blades together to add to the desired thickness? For example one spec I need is .17mm so can I put the .15 and .2 together ?

my3cents · 20-07-2016 9:53pm

Yep its expected that you have to put two together to get the right size.

Wipe them with a clean cloth before you put them together and keep them all clean and oiled when not in use, any rust and you need a new set. Don't use them if they are bent its just common sense really.

You are looking for an adjustment where you can just start to feel resistance to moving the gauge in the gap. Do it from both sides of the adjustment, over tighten a bit so the gauge is just gripped and can't move then slacken until the gauge can just be moved, make a note of the position of the spanner/screwdriver then slacken off and tighten again until you can just feel resistance to moving the gauge and the spanner/screwdriver should be in the position noted earlier. If not try again.

Sometimes locking the adjuster messes up the clearance a bit so check the clearance again after you have locked the adjusters. What can happen is locking the adjuster takes the very small amount of slack out of the thread slightly changing the gap. If that happens you might need to allow for it. Also check the adjuster doesn't move as you lock it.

Alkers · 20-07-2016 10:34pm

Richard tea wrote:

A little info needed on the feeler gauge please. The one I have doesn't exactly match the size I need. Is it normal practice to put 2 blades together to add to the desired thickness? For example one spec I need is .17mm so can I put the .15 and .2 together ?

You would need 0.15 and 0.02!

galwaytt · 20-07-2016 10:58pm

Putting two gauges together is one method. Another is to use one gauge mid range and one over and use it like a Go/No-Go gauge. Less subjective.

gctest50 · 20-07-2016 11:21pm

Richard tea wrote: »

A little info needed on the feeler gauge please. The one I have doesn't exactly match the size I need. Is it normal practice to put 2 blades together to add to the desired thickness? For example one spec I need is .17mm so can I put the .15 and .2 together ?

.0067 inches / 0.17mm

SKF do them :

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20060138/SKF-729865B-Feeler-Gauge-29-Blades-of-200mm-(8-in.)-Length/product_info.html

[IMG][/img]

my3cents · 20-07-2016 11:26pm

galwaytt wrote: »

Putting two gauges together is one method. Another is to use one gauge mid range and one over and use it like a Go/No-Go gauge. Less subjectI've.

If I'm not sure about getting setting right then I do that as a final check under size should go in so easy with nothing stopping it and oversize shouldn't go in.

galwaytt · 21-07-2016 10:36am

my3cents wrote: »

If I'm not sure about getting setting right then I do that as a final check under size should go in so easy with nothing stopping it and oversize shouldn't go in.

You could, double-checking anything is always a good idea.

Your max reading gauge should fit, and your minimum reading one not, as near the size as you can arrange.

If you were doing it a lot, you can actually buy the feeler strip in the exact size you want and use it for nothing else. Would allow you to, say, bend it and not worry about fubaring your 'general' set - esp if access is awkward anywhere.

These guys do a great gauge: https://issuu.com/tohenmedia/docs/kd_catalog

Their part no 2424 is machined to have a step on the one gauge. Dead handy.

Richard tea · 21-07-2016 4:40pm

galwaytt wrote: »

You could, double-checking anything is always a good idea.

Your max reading gauge should fit, and your minimum reading one not, as near the size as you can arrange.

If you were doing it a lot, you can actually buy the feeler strip in the exact size you want and use it for nothing else. Would allow you to, say, bend it and not worry about fubaring your 'general' set - esp if access is awkward anywhere.

These guys do a great gauge: https://issuu.com/tohenmedia/docs/kd_catalog

Their part no 2424 is machined to have a step on the one gauge. Dead handy.

AHHH tool heaven. I must browse that later a justify to myself why I need more tools.
I ended up picking up another feeler gauge in halfords today €6 and the 8-60Nm torque wrench. Just need to pick up coolant now and im ready to go.

landmarkjohn · 22-07-2016 11:35am

Apologies for hijacking.

Has anyone done valve clearance on a VFR800 Fi (non vtec)? Difficulty level on a 1-10 scale?

Comments above have prompted me into action :-) Thanks.

Richard tea · 23-08-2016 6:54pm

Jobs oxo:D

Took most of the day as it was my first time and the radiator had to be removed. Long and short of it is my intake should be 0.17mm and exhaust should be 0.28mm. Intakes on cylinder 1 + 2 were just a smidge tight, barley enough to adjust but I did anyway. The exhaust measurements were a different story. On cylinder 1 they very tight. had to drop to a size 0.20 to get it to fit and then adjusted to the correct spec at 0.28. Cylinder 2 was not so bad but still needed some adjustment.

The bike sounded and ran fine before adjustment but the valve check interval was due which is why I checked them. Good job I did.

As usual though it was the simpler tasks that slowed things right down. I thought I had the old green/blue coolant flushed out completely but when when I added the new pink coolant some green/blue coolant rose to the top. Im going to re read the coolant change procedure and do it again.

Im defo going to take the advice from above and just buy a good quality 0.17mm and 0.28mm gauge.

Also just to add. I picked up the halfords professional torque wrench and it works a charm. 99 quid but worth the money

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