Sako 85 problems

SakoHunter75

After the last thread about buying a second-hand Sako, I received the following private message yesterday morning advising me to steer very well clear of the Sako 85:

"How do just read your post RE new rifle and u thinking of saki 85 stainless synthetic from my experience stay as far away as you can from it absolute ball of scrap myself and two mates send back three with poi changing due to stock flexing after four months arguing with GMK they replaced stocks with timber stock barrels started to discolour and rust total different recoil leg than the 75 and way lighter which along with the short 20" barrel makes it way too lively in front I traded a steyr for mine and as soon as I got stock replaced I traded it back gladly for my old steyr saki 85 never again and the new a7 stock is worse"

I hope the sender, whose name I obviously won't mention, won't mind me posting his private message anonymously like this; I asked him a couple of questions relating to his message and he hasn't replied yet. But as this is the rifle I'm most interested in, and since I hadn't previously heard any really bad reports about the Sako 85 (except that the longer actions do sometimes suffer from ejection issues, with ejected shells hitting the scope), I want to put this out there and hear other peoples opinions/experiences, positive, negative or indifferent.

Cass

Sauer have an excellent name in the firearm world, yet i've had my fair share of them over the years and was less than impressed with some features, and had issues with the rifle. Like the message said about the Sako 85 the Sauer would shift POI after two consecutive shots (would climb high and right). I thought it was just my 30-06, but my mates 25-06 and a 243 i had later done the same thing. However it was not a target orientated rifle and this happened when i tried consecutive shots. When i fired slower and with time between shots (as in a hunting scenario) this never happened.

I've had a Sako 75, A7 and TRG. The TRG was oustanding but a heavy barrel, solid stock, etc meant i expected & received nothing less. The A7 would be the closest to the 85 Stainless synthetic. I experienced none of the same issues outlined above. The stock was solid and had a great feel and grip. The rifle was consistent and reliably accurate with no shift in POI. However an A7 is not an 85. My only reason for mentioning it is the A7 was some €600+ cheaper than the stainless so i would expect the more expensive gun to be of better quality or just better for that extra money.

As for rusting. That is very odd and surprising. Stainless barrels, while not immune to rusting, are much more resilient than blued barrels. They are regarded to be more accurate and contain less carbon steel (IIRC) than a blued counterpart. Any rusting is normally the result of abuse or lack of any sort of maintenance/cleaning regime. Have a read of posts 3 & 4 here.

As for the stock, well i would believe it. Styer have a good name in the gun world and their rifles are renowned for piss poor stocks. I had one in 243 years ago and sold it pronto when i seen how bad the stock was. It would flex and push against the barrel and when i used a bipod, good night. Comparing my A7 to the 85 is not a proper comparison as they're two different models, but the A7 was solid, no flexing and a great feeling stock. However the 85 may have a different type so i cannot comment on it.

I'm not saying the person that messaged you did not have these problems, and to an extent it can be possible to get a lemon of a gun. However i would not let it put you off instead make you more aware of any possible issues.

SakoHunter75

That advice is all much appreciated. My take on what you're saying is that there's no 'infallible' make of rifle and, thinking about it, that stands to reason. I always had this idea that Schmidt & Bender scopes were the toughest and most reliable, hence the military in lots of countries using them. But I was recently reading about failures with them too. I still tend towards S+B myself though.

I suppose the thing is to check a second-hand rifle as much as possible before buying. That's one of the drawbacks with buying abroad too I imagine, unless you fly over to have a look first, which would have to be factored into the cost.

I got another private message (again won't mention name) about Sako, saying that in their experience there are very often issues with shifting poi on the 85 synthetic stocks due to "the alloy bedding block in the stock", and that once the block is bedded properly, or the stock is replaced with a laminate version, the problem disappears. I don't know enough about how rifle actions are married to stocks to be able to understand what that all means, or comment. Seems to know what he's talking about though; like you, he says any gun, stainless or not, will rust if not looked after, but that he never had any problems with his (stainless Sako 85).

Personally I actually prefer the look of a traditional blued barrel, and timber stock too, but also like the idea of going out in the rain/drizzle/mist stalking and not worrying about the rifle. Also synthetic stocks are usually a bit lighter... but if it was causing a loss in accuracy it wouldn't be worth it.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

As for the stock, well i would believe it. Styer have a good name in the gun world and their rifles are renowned for piss poor stocks. I had one in 243 years ago and sold it pronto when i seen how bad the stock was. It would flex and push against the barrel and when i used a bipod, good night.

I wonder whether using a bipod has anything to do with the problems of shifting poi experienced by some people with the Sako 85 synthetic? Nobody mentioned this specifically, but I presume it puts more pressure on a flexi stock, risking causing it to touch the barrel?

I wouldn't be using a bipod myself.

sikastag

Have an 85 Synthetic myself. Shoot it with and without bipod. Never misses a beat. Very accurate factory rifle. I'd imagine as others have said, rust problems are probably linked with maintenance routine.

I've never heard of any stock problems with the 85 however as Cass has said Steyr synthetic stocks are awful. Flexible fore ends would be a common trait. Swapping from an 85 back to steyr is a backward step imo.

Heavy handed

I shoot the 85 synthetic with stainless barrel as well and never had any problems. Granted the fore end is a small bit flexible when on the bipod. Can get aftermarket stock if it bothers you that much. End of the day it's a hunting rifle and not a target/range rifle. I shoot it 90% off sticks and does exactly what it's supposed to do and I've confidence in it everytime I take it out. If your set on the sako 85 then go for it. I've never regretted buying mine and would buy another in the future.

SakoHunter75

Thanks for the replies lads, good to get that bit of reassurance. Still got a few months to decide anyway.

Cass

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

That advice is all much appreciated. My take on what you're saying is that there's no 'infallible' make of rifle and, thinking about it, that stands to reason. I always had this idea that Schmidt & Bender scopes were the toughest and most reliable, hence the military in lots of countries using them. But I was recently reading about failures with them too. I still tend towards S+B myself though.

I've seen S&B, Nightforce and Swarovski all fail. You pay the big money for a number of reasons and this includes less chance of such failures, but they do happen. No brand is 100%.

I suppose the thing is to check a second-hand rifle as much as possible before buying. That's one of the drawbacks with buying abroad too I imagine, unless you fly over to have a look first, which would have to be factored into the cost.

I'd never buy before seeing, ever.

I got another private message (again won't mention name) about Sako, saying that in their experience there are very often issues with shifting poi on the 85 synthetic stocks due to "the alloy bedding block in the stock", and that once the block is bedded properly, or the stock is replaced with a laminate version, the problem disappears.

See my point on that is if there is a problem why would i pay big money for a gun to have to change something immediately. I pay the bigger money to have something that shoots right out of the box.

However as i said above with the Styer they had some models with the synthetic stock that almost destroyed the brand for this very reason. Styer are not cheap either.

I don't know enough about how rifle actions are married to stocks to be able to understand what that all means, or comment. Seems to know what he's talking about though; like you, he says any gun, stainless or not, will rust if not looked after, but that he never had any problems with his (stainless Sako 85).

A rifle barrel screws into the action, the barreled action sits into the stock. To prevent any disruption to the harmonics of the rifle some manufacturers install bedding blocks. It's literally a block of alloy that is milled to the shape of the under side of the action and the to of the stock. It means the barreled action never directly touches the stock and is free of any pressures put on the stock when shooting. You can achieve the same result by glass/pillar bedding a standard stock that does not come with a bedding block.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wh3CAVdImoc

Personally I actually prefer the look of a traditional blued barrel, and timber stock too, but also like the idea of going out in the rain/drizzle/mist stalking and not worrying about the rifle. Also synthetic stocks are usually a bit lighter... but if it was causing a loss in accuracy it wouldn't be worth it.

I prefer stainless. For accuracy, durability, and most importantly looks. I just like the clean look of the stainless rifles. Blued barrels take much more care and will rust within a week if abused. A stainless could take the same abuse and not show rust/problems for up to a year.

As for the stock. I don't really mind, but must admit i'm partial to a nice timber stock. I'd take one over a synthetic and for the extra pound or two i'd be happier.

clivej

Never had any problems with my Sako 75. I use both types of stock with it.
The laminated timber that is the stock that comes with the rifle and used in the summer. I'd put the synthetic stock on for the Deer season. It saves about 2lb in weight and I don't worry about getting it banged about. I put a small picatinny rail on the side for a torch and moved a sling swivel attachment to the side as well.

I can swop these stocks over without any POI change, and the bi-pod has no effect on the POI either. Just make sure the barrel is Free Floating all the way to the action.
Both stocks are pillar bedded and the rifle has a set trigger. See my write up in the tips section on how I pillar bedded the timber stock.
Scope is the Bushnell 4200 Tactical Elite 6-24x50mm. Zeroed @200y and a drop chart is taped to the scope for 100y, and 300y drops.
Also I have a 20MOA Roedale picatinny rail for the scope. I fit all my rifles with picatinny rails. (Even my 2 shotguns have them on)







Photo's of the pillar bedding job on the timber stock.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

I prefer stainless. For accuracy, durability, and most importantly looks. I just like the clean look of the stainless rifles. Blued barrels take much more care and will rust within a week if abused. A stainless could take the same abuse and not show rust/problems for up to a year.

The one downside is maybe that in a hunting situation stainless could be more visible to the quarry than blued steel, unless it's dulled down somehow.

Cass wrote: »

As for the stock. I don't really mind, but must admit i'm partial to a nice timber stock. I'd take one over a synthetic and for the extra pound or two i'd be happier.

What if it was raining, wouldn't you be worried about the stock warping, or other ill effects?

Bad_alibi

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

The one downside is maybe that in a hunting situation stainless could be more visible to the quarry than blued steel, unless it's dulled down somehow

Your not a good hunter if your quarry can se you.

clivej

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

The one downside is maybe that in a hunting situation stainless could be more visible to the quarry than blued steel, unless it's dulled down somehow.

It will never be a problem, there is not a 'shine' off the stainless barrels.

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

What if it was raining, wouldn't you be worried about the stock warping, or other ill effects?

That what the finish on the stocks is for, to withstand the weather.
Lets face it your not going to leave the stock in soaking water for any length of time

And any time is the best time to buy a new rifle. My opinion is to save up a little more and get the rifle YOU want.
Get a nice timber stock and the stainless steel version. Sako do very nice timber stocks.

Cass

Clivej answered the questions nicely.

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

The one downside is maybe that in a hunting situation stainless could be more visible to the quarry than blued steel, unless it's dulled down somehow. [.quote]
The barrels, while stainless, will not glare for two reasons. They don't have a high polish finish and as said above if you're worth your salt you'll be able to stalk. I've used stainless barrels for over ten years and never had an issue.

What if it was raining, wouldn't you be worried about the stock warping, or other ill effects?

This is what i was referring to above about maintenance regime.

Most stocks have a finish on them (timber). This finish coupled with a good cleaning maintenance and proper care of your firearm means it'll last a lifetime. Even if your timber stock got a little damp you don't bring it home and stick it on the radiator. You clean it down, dry it off and make sure your gun room has proper ventilation, temp control and dehumidifier.

SakoHunter75

Thanks again for above replies. This is all really useful and valuable for me in advance of buying another rifle.

Cass wrote: »

I'd never buy before seeing, ever.

I'm just reflecting on the fact that, whatever about examining a s/h rifle in your hands, you're only ever going to cop some problems, such as the shifting POI we've been discussing, or feeding or ejection problems etc., by actually shooting a group.

Would you want to fire a s/h rifle before buying too, or how feasible is it to be asking that in a buying situation, either with a RFD or a private sale?

Cass

When buying second hand there are a number of things you can do just by looking and getting hands on the rifle/firearm. I outlined some of them here.

None of these can be done when buying online or from abroad.

As for test firing. Not always an option. If i'm buying from a private source or selling for that matter i always meet at y range. If buying i want to test fire and when selling i insist on it. This way i can show the firearm works perfectly and in the case of rifles can group. Whether the buyer can replicate this is not my "concern" only that they see the rifle can do it.

Very few rifles are shot out. Factory ammo is tame and most rifles can shoot thousands/tens of thousands of rounds before you even need to consider this. Even then a top and tail will solve most problems, or if you're lucky a recrown.

The best you can do is research. Read as many reviews as possible, take the good with the bad and weigh up your options. Also when checking reviews be careful of one sided ones. Some people are paid to do this by the manufacturers so they're not going to bite the hand that feeds them by slating a rifle. Try get independent reviews and read threads by people that have owned the same gun. List the pros and cons and go from there.


I would say this, one last time, DO NOT buy online. You most likely won't have a problem, but there is no need as with the amount of dealers in the country someone will have what you want, and its a huge risk to buy blind.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

When buying second hand there are a number of things you can do just by looking and getting hands on the rifle/firearm. I outlined some of them.

That's brilliant thanks, will bear all of that in mind.

Cass wrote: »

As for test firing. Not always an option. If i'm buying from a private source or selling for that matter i always meet at y range. If buying i want to test fire and when selling i insist on it. This way i can show the firearm works perfectly and in the case of rifles can group. Whether the buyer can replicate this is not my "concern" only that they see the rifle can do it.

How many ranges cater for centrefire rifles though? For e.g., my nearest (Knocknagoshel) doesn't.

Cass wrote: »

Very few rifles are shot out. Factory ammo is tame and most rifles can shoot thousands/tens of thousands of rounds before you even need to consider this. Even then a top and tail will solve most problems, or if you're lucky a recrown.

What's a 'top and tail'?

Cass

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

How many ranges cater for centrefire rifles though? For e.g., my nearest (Knocknagoshel) doesn't.

Not many. There is a full list of ranges here and each one shows what the ranges cater for.

Unfortunately you may need to drive, but its a small price to make sure the rifle you buy is everything you want.

What's a 'top and tail'?

Apologies.

It means you take off the barrel and cut the muzzle and chamber and re-do them. IOW a new chamber and new crown. Not always possible depending on the type of rifle and how the barrel is fitted but also based on the length of the barrel however it can be done with most rifles. Essentially gives your barrel a new lease of life.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

Not many. There is a full list of ranges and each one shows what the ranges cater for.

Unfortunately you may need to drive, but its a small price to make sure the rifle you buy is everything you want.

Thanks for the list, that's good to have. In my very limited experience, the problem with some ranges can be that you need to join for a full year just to use their facilities for 30 minutes or less. If I remember right, that was what I was told once when I rang An Riocht looking to zero my .223 there. No such issue at Knocknagoshel though, but as mentioned earlier unfortunately Liam can't accommodate centrefires.

Cass wrote: »

It means you take off the barrel and cut the muzzle and chamber and re-do them. IOW a new chamber and new crown. Not always possible depending on the type of rifle and how the barrel is fitted but also based on the length of the barrel however it can be done with most rifles. Essentially gives your barrel a new lease of life.

I don't understand what you mean by re-do the chamber. Surely by recutting it you'd have to make it bigger for a bigger cal, and recut the barrel to a bigger cal too?

Cass

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

Thanks for the list, that's good to have. In my very limited experience, the problem with some ranges can be that you need to join for a full year just to use their facilities for 30 minutes or less.

The cost of running a range is huge, even for small ranges. As such they may not be keen to allow people in to shoot for a little bit when members have to pay a years membership for the same privilege.

That being said most ranges have an open door policy, albeit with a fee attached for the day. The Midlands range, my range, has such a policy. They will allow members to bring in guests on a limited basis. By limited i mean i could not sign say yourself in, every week, for the year as a guest. That would be ripping the piss out of it. However a couple of times a year would not be an issue.

I don't understand what you mean by re-do the chamber. Surely by recutting it you'd have to make it bigger for a bigger cal, and recut the barrel to a bigger cal too?

Now i'm not following you.

If you buy a .308 (example only) and want the rifle "topped and tailed" the gunsmith would remove the barrel, cut the muzzle, cut the chamber then shape and re-crown the muzzle and using a 308 reamer cut a new 308 chamber. It would have to remain the caliber your license is for for two reasons. You may only have a license for that caliber and no gunsmith in Ireland can re-bore a barrel. No gunsmith i know anywhere does this either as the cost would be extreme and when you can buy barrels "pre-cut" why bother.

If you wanted a new caliber say a 243 to 308 (example only) then you would need a license for the new caliber and then the gunsmith would have to buy a barrel blank and then cut the chamber and crown it. However that is not topping and tailing in the terms of what i am referring to. That is a rebarrel.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

Now i'm not following you.

If you buy a .308 (example only) and want the rifle "topped and tailed" the gunsmith would remove the barrel, cut the muzzle, cut the chamber then shape and re-crown the muzzle and using a 308 reamer cut a new 308 chamber. It would have to remain the caliber your license is for for two reasons. You may only have a license for that caliber and no gunsmith in Ireland can re-bore a barrel. No gunsmith i know anywhere does this either as the cost would be extreme and when you can buy barrels "pre-cut" why bother.

If you wanted a new caliber say a 243 to 308 (example only) then you would need a license for the new caliber and then the gunsmith would have to buy a barrel blank and then cut the chamber and crown it. However that is not topping and tailing in the terms of what i am referring to. That is a rebarrel.

Ok, I think I get this now. I presume the chamber end of the barrel would need to be rethreaded for attachment to the receiver, since the original barrel thread would have been removed along with the original chamber? If that's not the case, then I'm still lost!

zeissman

Having owned various sako 75 and 85 models over the years I do think the 75 had a better bedding system.
The 75 has a steel recoil lug similar to a tikka t3 which slots into the action and stock..
The 85 models don't. My 85 synthetic has a small alloy block fitted in the stock that the front of the action sits in.
I did notice point of impact changes a few times.
If I held the rifle upright and pressed the end of the stock against the barrel I could feel movement in the action.
One day at the range I fired a shot then I pressed the barrell against the stock and released it again and fired another shot. Each time I done this the point of impact moved around the target.
I got a laminated stock for it which cured the problem.
My mate bought a new 7mm08 sako 85 stainless synthetic and he also had problems With accuracy. He also thought it was the alloy block causing it so he got that area bedded and it's fine now.
Another mate just bought a new sako 85 stainless laminated in 6.5x55 and it's a tack driver.
I do believe the bedding system in the 85 synthetic stock can cause problems in some rifles.
As for rust I never had a problem with any of mine. Any gun will rust if you don't look after it.

Cass

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

I presume the chamber end of the barrel would need to be rethreaded for attachment to the receiver, since the original barrel thread would have been removed along with the original chamber?

Yup.

SakoHunter75

Cass wrote: »

Yup.

Whew!

SakoHunter75

zeissman wrote: »

Having owned various sako 75 and 85 models over the years My 85 synthetic has a small alloy block fitted in the stock that the front of the action sits in.
I did notice point of impact changes a few times.
If I held the rifle upright and pressed the end of the stock against the barrel I could feel movement in the action.
One day at the range I fired a shot then I pressed the barrell against the stock and released it again and fired another shot. Each time I done this the point of impact moved around the target.
I got a laminated stock for it which cured the problem.
My mate bought a new 7mm08 sako 85 stainless synthetic and he also had problems With accuracy. He also thought it was the alloy block causing it so he got that area bedded and it's fine now.
Another mate just bought a new sako 85 stainless laminated in 6.5x55 and it's a tack driver.
I do believe the bedding system in the 85 synthetic stock can cause problems in some rifles.

So the message is, if you buy an 85 synthetic, be prepared for the fact that a rebedding job, as in Cass' video, may be required. Not the best for a rifle that costs over 2k new! Still, a second hand one of these may be an option for me.

zeissman

SakoHunter75 wrote: »

So the message is, if you buy an 85 synthetic, be prepared for the fact that a rebedding job, as in Cass' video, may be required. Not the best for a rifle that costs over 2k new! Still, a second hand one of these may be an option for me.

I wouldn't buy a 85 synthetic again, I would buy the laminated version though.
I would also buy a good 2nd hand 75 synthetic or wood .
The tikka rifles all seem to shoot well but I don't really like the plastic mag and trigger guard but I had a look at the new tikka t3x ctr rifle last week and liked it. It has a 20inch med weight barrel and metal trigger guard and magazine. I think it would be perfect for someone who wanted a dual purpose rifle for stalking and targets.

arrowloopboy

I'd just buy a Blaser r93 if I were you ,then you'll know if its shooting off,its YOU

zeissman

arrowloopboy wrote: »

I'd just buy a Blaser r93 if I were you ,then you'll know if its shooting off,its YOU

I seen one of those that wouldn't group as well.
A mate bought a new r93 off road in 25-06 shortly after they came out.
Accuracy was terrible with all available ammo.
He sent it back and bought a sako 75.
He was speaking to one of the blaser guys a few years later and he did admit that they had problems with that model in that calibre.
I shot a few blazers since in 243 and 6.5x55 and they were excellent.

cz223

sikastag wrote: »

Have an 85 Synthetic myself. Shoot it with and without bipod. Never misses a beat. Very accurate factory rifle. I'd imagine as others have said, rust problems are probably linked with maintenance routine.

I've never heard of any stock problems with the 85 however as Cass has said Steyr synthetic stocks are awful. Flexible fore ends would be a common trait. Swapping from an 85 back to steyr is a backward step imo.[/QU


First and foremost i want to stress i am not a gun dealer and have no vested interest in promoting or criticizing any make of rifle. the op asked for information which i sent him details of our experiences regarding the rifle model in question


Def not a step back sikastag, for something when you notified a Irish main dealer (recommended by gmk the main importer now for Eire and UK) and discussed the problem of poi shifting be told by him it wasnt designed to be shot off a bipod it was designed to be shot off the shoulder or off a benchrest (now i scoured the sako accessories on their website and cannot find a bench with shoulder straps for carrying it around the hill for us that are nt confident of the freehand shot on live quarry at the 100yard + ranges) something that took short of six months,numerous phone-calls to Finland and GB to get sorted (a common practice with beretta sako tikka warranties so im told)yet when the rifles yes rifles (3.no.)were finally returned to their appointed gunsmith here in Ireland he had no hesitation in replacing stocks as they were twisting now admittedly all three rifles shot sub 1 inch @100 in their new wooden stocks
we had three new 85 stainless synthetics here. By that I mean never used or owned previous by anyone. They all had excessive flex in the fore end and caused the poi to change off bipod they are mass produced at a very cheap cost..
Is that not a fact? Or am i making it the whole thing up just to attract attention and cause a disturbance?
Or had we the only three in the whole world like it? Maybe we should purchase another one just to make sure eh ,lol.

as for the steyr yes admitted they had a fore end issue in the prohunter, but i originally bought the gun knowing this, and the fix for it if it happened. When i notified sportsman gun they gave me the green light to go ahead with the procedure to strengthen it that it would not compromise the warranty and if i still wasnt happy they would send me a replacement stock,which they did anyway ,the prohunter in my opinion,as well as any others that have shot it is as accurate a factory rifle with factory ammo as they have shot be it off bipod or bench or shoulder at a fraction of the cost of a sako.


As the old saying go`s "some folk are easily pleased" but facts do no cease to exist because they are ignored..
Good hunting boys with what ever rifle you use..

cz223

arrowloopboy wrote: »

I'd just buy a Blaser r93 if I were you ,then you'll know if its shooting off,its YOU

blaser 93 is finished now arrowloop they stopped making it that says a lot

arrowloopboy

cz223 wrote: »

blaser 93 is finished now arrowloop they stopped making it that says a lot

Yip ,they replaced it with that hideous looking thumbholed r8 thingy ,they thought it was progress :rolleyes:.

sikastag

cz223 wrote: »

sikastag wrote: »

Have an 85 Synthetic myself. Shoot it with and without bipod. Never misses a beat. Very accurate factory rifle. I'd imagine as others have said, rust problems are probably linked with maintenance routine.

I've never heard of any stock problems with the 85 however as Cass has said Steyr synthetic stocks are awful. Flexible fore ends would be a common trait. Swapping from an 85 back to steyr is a backward step imo.[/QU


First and foremost i want to stress i am not a gun dealer and have no vested interest in promoting or criticizing any make of rifle. the op asked for information which i sent him details of our experiences regarding the rifle model in question


Def not a step back sikastag, for something when you notified a Irish main dealer (recommended by gmk the main importer now for Eire and UK) and discussed the problem of poi shifting be told by him it wasnt designed to be shot off a bipod it was designed to be shot off the shoulder or off a benchrest (now i scoured the sako accessories on their website and cannot find a bench with shoulder straps for carrying it around the hill for us that are nt confident of the freehand shot on live quarry at the 100yard + ranges) something that took short of six months,numerous phone-calls to Finland and GB to get sorted (a common practice with beretta sako tikka warranties so im told)yet when the rifles yes rifles (3.no.)were finally returned to their appointed gunsmith here in Ireland he had no hesitation in replacing stocks as they were twisting now admittedly all three rifles shot sub 1 inch @100 in their new wooden stocks
we had three new 85 stainless synthetics here. By that I mean never used or owned previous by anyone. They all had excessive flex in the fore end and caused the poi to change off bipod they are mass produced at a very cheap cost..
Is that not a fact? Or am i making it the whole thing up just to attract attention and cause a disturbance?
Or had we the only three in the whole world like it? Maybe we should purchase another one just to make sure eh ,lol.

as for the steyr yes admitted they had a fore end issue in the prohunter, but i originally bought the gun knowing this, and the fix for it if it happened. When i notified sportsman gun they gave me the green light to go ahead with the procedure to strengthen it that it would not compromise the warranty and if i still wasnt happy they would send me a replacement stock,which they did anyway ,the prohunter in my opinion,as well as any others that have shot it is as accurate a factory rifle with factory ammo as they have shot be it off bipod or bench or shoulder at a fraction of the cost of a sako.


As the old saying go`s "some folk are easily pleased" but facts do no cease to exist because they are ignored..
Good hunting boys with what ever rifle you use..

I hope you're not making it up!! 😛 Ah no, in fairness. Any gun can give problems. As said, I've never heard of the 85 synthetic giving problems, I didn't say it wasn't possible. Its never nice to spend hard earned cash on a rig and not have it perform as it should and sounds like you had a bit of a battle on your hands getting replacements etc. That being said, I have seen steyr prohunters go wrong and flexible fore ends is a well known issue with those models. You even purchased one knowing you would have to fix it. That is a fact and so I must base my opinions on said facts and past experiences. And so I stand by my statement that the steyr prohunter is indeed a step backwards from the Sako 85. In short, the OP is getting some valuable info which I presume was the purpose of this thread and I am by no means having a 'go' or whatever else.

As youve said, good hunting and let's hope all our rifles shoot straight irrespective of make.