Noob needs good first bike and doesn't care what it looks like

AgileMyth

guitarmagic wrote: »

mufflets2 wrote: »

Just to say - I found it a lot easier to do the test on a bike I was used to and riding regularly than one that i rented for the test ( I did it twice)

yes, i figured. But I looked at the list ( http://www.rsa.ie/en/RSA/Learner-Drivers/Motorcyclists/Driving-Test-Vehicles---Motorcycles/ ) and since I don't know anything about fixing stuff, and don't have any friends that do, I'm really looking for a "low-maintenance" shaft-drive like the deauville. Are there any alternatives that are also hold their re-sale value and are current on the irish marked?

Can't think of any other small capacity shaft drive bikes. BMW have a few belt drives which would be less maintenance than a chain.

My last bike was chain drive after a few years of shafties, never again. And I don't even live somewhere it rains.

MSVforever

Pugzilla wrote: »

Bandit is a terrible bike. Horribly overweight and down on power compared to the hornet and fazer. ****e build quality too and every
c nt has one.

Bollix. It's a grand bike, reliable (mine has already covered 81000 km) and fun to drive if you use the 4 cylinder powerband properly (over 6000 rpm):D.
It has less power than the hornet and fazer but it can still get you into trouble with the law.
All three are beginner bikes and therefore not unique i.e. common as muck.
This means parts are easily and cheap to come by:)
Imo it's the Honda Civic of the bikeworld (Deauville would be the Avensis...).

If you want pure fun and have a full wallet then get a cbr1000rr, Kawasaki ZX14R or a GSX1300R.....lol...

macplaxton

AgileMyth wrote: »

Can't think of any other small capacity shaft drive bikes. BMW have a few belt drives which would be less maintenance than a chain.

My last bike was chain drive after a few years of shafties, never again. And I don't even live somewhere it rains.

Ye olde Yamaha Townmate T80 had a shaft :pac::


Kawasaki GPZ305 was belt - snapped a new belt at 15k miles (so much for lasting 40-50k)

Suzuki SV650 - fitted with Scottoiler + touring reservoir behind number plate. Refill every 4k or so. 30k on original chain and only half the adjustment used. If I'd kept the bike, I reckon it would of reached 50k before changing.

macplaxton

CJhaughey wrote: »

Honda motorcycles from this era are some of the best finished bikes you'll ever see.
Paint is thick, fasteners are all plated well. and the engines in these V-twins last for a very long time.
I know of some with over 150k miles on them!
Little known fact, if you compare the frame dmensions on these bikes they ar very similar to the Honda NSR250 of the same era. They handle well in Naked form and even as a practical commuter with the extra weight they still handle well.
There are still decent Bikes that haven't been dispatched around if you look.

I agree about the finish and quality, but only of Japanese built Hondas. Their Brazilian built output wasn't nearly as good. Whilst the NTV had good strong engines, the gearboxes were clunky rubbish and can grenade.

I found them top-heavy. The Bros 650 with ally frame and chain drive was better for throwing around.

Don't get me wrong, I like Hondas, but a NTV600 Revere or NTV650 is going to be near or at least 20 years old and there is better stuff to get the job done these days.

CJhaughey

macplaxton wrote: »

I agree about the finish and quality, but only of Japanese built Hondas. Their Brazilian built output wasn't nearly as good. Whilst the NTV had good strong engines, the gearboxes were clunky rubbish and can grenade.

I found them top-heavy. The Bros 650 with ally frame and chain drive was better for throwing around.

Don't get me wrong, I like Hondas, but a NTV600 Revere or NTV650 is going to be near or at least 20 years old and there is better stuff to get the job done these days.

I guess if you look at it in those terms then the Revere/NTV are old but I wouldn't dismiss them purely on age.
Lots of bikes are minded well and stand the test of time.
The OP was looking for a simple practical bike that needs very little maintenance on a small budget.
The very first thing that any bike needs as ongoing maintenance (apart from oil/water) is chain and sprocket maintenance.
If you can remove that from the equation then that's a big chunk of maintenance gone right there.
Secondly not everyone likes I4 bikes, they are smooth and rev but can be characterless.
V-twins like the middleweight Suzuki and Honda are comfortable to ride with decent torque without having to rev the nuts off the thing hence their popularity.
I guess its down to the OP to decide what they want and how much they can afford and try out a few bikes to see what they like.
I still wouldn't discount a good older bike as a starter machine, when you add up gear and training and the chance it will go down the road then an older bike makes more sense.

MSVforever

CJhaughey wrote: »

...
I guess its down to the OP to decide what they want and how much they can afford and try out a few bikes to see what they like.
I still wouldn't discount a good older bike as a starter machine, when you add up gear and training and the chance it will go down the road then an older bike makes more sense.

Best advice! Everybody has different taste and associated costs can add up to far more than the bike itself.

Just an example for what I have paid so far (I still have a long shopping list which would include proper rain gear, winter gloves, 2nd pair of boots etc):

Theory Test = €45
Learner Permit = €35
IBT = €550

Textile Jacket and Pants = €300
L-Vest = €15
Gloves = €90
Boots = €180
Helmet = €180 online (was €380 in the place with the big windows I think)
Base Layers = €180
Kevlar Jeans = €115

Chain brush, chain cleaner, chain lube, visor cleaner, helmet foam spray, bike wash/polish stuff, engine oil etc. = €120

Bike = €2100
Tax = €88 (was included in bike purchase till April 2017)
Insurance = €400

This comes to a total of €4310 (excluding motor tax).

Make sure that the bike is serviced and doesn't need new sprockets/chain or even tires which could add on another couple of hundred yoyos:eek:

Motorbiking is great fun but doesn't come cheap. Thank god my wife hasn't tracked the costs so far;)

Pugzilla

MSVforever wrote: »

It has less power than the hornet and fazer but it can still get you into trouble with the law.

Bandit has 18 less hp and its dry weight is 29kg more than the Fazer. I've ridden both back to back and there's a big difference. I haven't owned either bike, so I can be more objective. Hornet has more performance again, but haven't ridden it.

MSVforever

Pugzilla wrote: »

Bandit has 18 less hp and its dry weight is 29kg more than the Fazer. I've ridden both back to back and there's a big difference. I haven't owned either bike, so I can be more objective. Hornet has more performance again, but haven't ridden it.

Me too. I have ridden all three and can confirm that the Hornet has the most power and bandit has the least of the three (but it's still not scrap metal).

However for a starter bike we are hair splitting here. I mean what difference does it really make for the OP to get from 0-100 in 3 or 4 seconds..... :rolleyes:

Pugzilla

MSVforever wrote: »

Me too. I have ridden all three and can confirm that the Hornet has the most power and bandit has the least of the three (but it's still not scrap metal).

However for a starter bike we are hair splitting here. I mean what difference does it really make for the OP to get from 0-100 in 3 or 4 seconds..... :rolleyes:

The issue is more to do with the weight than power. A lighter bikes builds confidence faster and slow maneuvers are easier.

guitarmagic

I'm getting a deauville guys... thanks for the feedback

listermint

mufflets2 wrote: »

Just to say - I found it a lot easier to do the test on a bike I was used to and riding regularly than one that i rented for the test ( I did it twice)

I did the test on a rental. I did it once.

It was the only time I did it as I passed.

My own bike isn't on the list which is ridiculous power to weight..