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Seems like a good deal on firewood....

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  • Registered Users Posts: 162 ✭✭RonTon


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    Thats great value really, if I had the storage space I think buying it by the trailer load is the way to go as there are significant savings over buying it by the crate. . Do you know what hardwoods they were or is it a mix of everything? And how long did it take you to stack the lot of it into storage, its a lot of wood.

    Mix of a everything ,one type was very dense ,first I thought was it wet cos it so heavy but no ,bone dry.wish I knew what it was. The odd piece of soft wood in the load but very little to be fair.
    I’ve been getting wood for a stove for about 10 years , nothing worse than getting a load of wet wood ,it did happen one year and had to leave it for following year .
    The kiln dried wood looks great ,very tidy in the crates but crikey it’s expensive.I wouldn’t buy wood like that tho or I wouldn’t buy a load of softwood ,no good for heat I think.

    I’ve a second stove been fitted in couple of weeks and a pizza oven ,so a good store of wood is very handy .
    2 of us stacked it all in couple of hours ,not much hassle really but I do have space in a shed :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 455 ✭✭2forjoy


    FFVII wrote: »
    my father is getting a new stove and is actually going to get wood pellet stove? Is that the way now? Is that what people are getting nowadays? Off topic maybe.
    Ask yourself if you want to be confined to a single product.
    Open fire you can burn anything. Multi fuel the same . Wood stove you can burn many types of wood.
    Plus there was shortage of pellets this time last year. Can happen again. Only few genuine manufacturers in Ireland.


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    2forjoy wrote: »
    Ask yourself if you want to be confined to a single product.
    Open fire you can burn anything. Multi fuel the same . Wood stove you can burn many types of wood.
    Plus there was shortage of pellets this time last year. Can happen again. Only few genuine manufacturers in Ireland.

    Dont think the pellet boilers look as well as stoves etc particularly if it's a centre feature in a room.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭FFVII


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Dont think the pellet boilers look as well as stoves etc particularly if it's a centre feature in a room.

    95% effeciency apparently.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭deadduck


    Hi all,

    Finally got our Henley Arklow 6.6kw installed. Getting use to it, getting the best heat out of it is a bit tricky, but I’ll figure it out over the next while.

    I’m waiting on my moisture detector to arrive, as I want to test some ‘seasoned’ (but not kiln dried) wood I bought. I think the moisture might be a bit on the high side, as the glass went dirty really fast, the air wash seemed to hardly work at all, and we had to keep the stove pretty loaded to keep the heat up

    Also, from people’s experience here of burning different fuel types, is it really only possible to get close to the full 6.6kw using some type of coal, or will top quality timber manage it too?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭Blowheads


    deadduck wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Finally got our Henley Arklow 6.6kw installed. Getting use to it, getting the best heat out of it is a bit tricky, but I’ll figure it out over the next while.

    I’m waiting on my moisture detector to arrive, as I want to test some ‘seasoned’ (but not kiln dried) wood I bought. I think the moisture might be a bit on the high side, as the glass went dirty really fast, the air wash seemed to hardly work at all, and we had to keep the stove pretty loaded to keep the heat up

    Also, from people’s experience here of burning different fuel types, is it really only possible to get close to the full 6.6kw using some type of coal, or will top quality timber manage it too?

    That's a "regular size room heater" per say, so good quality fuel will have it roasting in short order. I would recommend to buy a few different types of fuels, kiln dried hardwood, kiln dried softwood, compressed timber logs, turf, coal, briquettes. A small amount of each will help you get a good understanding of what works and what doesn't, what suits your rththm or budget

    Personally, depends on how often and how long it will be lit for determines the fuel. Few hours in evening would be a few logs, longer period be a shovel of coal. Don't overload it with anything until you get a good feel for it or it could be a windows and doors open job


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    New inset stove ourselves 8kw.
    We split a fire log, bit of kindling and some logs followed by a compressed log or 2, trying different types. Building on lean-to at moment so hope to get a trailer load of timber to stack and dry in one area. We have the multi fuel inserts but plan on sticking with timber.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭deadduck


    Blowheads wrote: »
    That's a "regular size room heater" per say, so good quality fuel will have it roasting in short order. I would recommend to buy a few different types of fuels, kiln dried hardwood, kiln dried softwood, compressed timber logs, turf, coal, briquettes. A small amount of each will help you get a good understanding of what works and what doesn't, what suits your rththm or budget

    Personally, depends on how often and how long it will be lit for determines the fuel. Few hours in evening would be a few logs, longer period be a shovel of coal. Don't overload it with anything until you get a good feel for it or it could be a windows and doors open job

    Thanks for the feedback. The room dimensions are 6.5 x 3.5 x 2.8m, and it’s actually a bit smaller cos of the fireplace and the corners at the bay window. It takes a while to heat up, and even at max, it’s best described as ‘cosy’. I was suspecting it might be something to do with it being an insert, and the cast iron body taking quite a while to get up to temp, but after doing some reading up, I’m definitely suspecting the fuel. Which is no big deal, as I can just leave it in the shed to dry out (until next winter if need be). I’ll report back once my moisture meter has arrived, and in the mean time, I’m gonna try some anthracite (and maybe some kiln dried wood too) and see how that goes


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭deadduck


    Also, another stove newbie question from me:

    I’ve seen recommended a stove thermometer (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valiant-Magnetic-Burner-Thermometer-FIR116/dp/B00AMMDAMQ) that attaches to the flue, and indicates when it’s at optimum burning temperature, to help make sure the stove is operating efficiently.

    As I’ve an insert, obviously accessing the flue is impossible, but does anyone know of any sort of equivalent device that could do the same job?


  • Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭Blowheads


    deadduck wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback. The room dimensions are 6.5 x 3.5 x 2.8m, and it’s actually a bit smaller cos of the fireplace and the corners at the bay window. It takes a while to heat up, and even at max, it’s best described as ‘cosy’. I was suspecting it might be something to do with it being an insert, and the cast iron body taking quite a while to get up to temp, but after doing some reading up, I’m definitely suspecting the fuel. Which is no big deal, as I can just leave it in the shed to dry out (until next winter if need be). I’ll report back once my moisture meter has arrived, and in the mean time, I’m gonna try some anthracite (and maybe some kiln dried wood too) and see how that goes

    Damp timber to anthracite 😠you'll definitely notice the difference. Maybe some good smokeless coal to start before going for the rolls royce


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  • Registered Users Posts: 19,654 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    deadduck wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback. The room dimensions are 6.5 x 3.5 x 2.8m, and it’s actually a bit smaller cos of the fireplace and the corners at the bay window. It takes a while to heat up, and even at max, it’s best described as ‘cosy’. I was suspecting it might be something to do with it being an insert, and the cast iron body taking quite a while to get up to temp, but after doing some reading up, I’m definitely suspecting the fuel. Which is no big deal, as I can just leave it in the shed to dry out (until next winter if need be). I’ll report back once my moisture meter has arrived, and in the mean time, I’m gonna try some anthracite (and maybe some kiln dried wood too) and see how that goes

    When you get the moisture meter test the moisture of some logs in your shed and write it down. Then take them indoors, place them beside the fire for 2-3 weeks and test again. Last winter I found logs outside were at about 20-24% moisture but after 2-3 weeks inside a warm environment they dropped to between 8-12%. For me this made a fair difference when burning them. It makes sense really as humidity is so high in Ireland during winter so regardless of shelter logs stored outside are going to take on some moisture. Reducing that moisture before burning them will give you a better fire.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭deadduck


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    When you get the moisture meter test the moisture of some logs in your shed and write it down. Then take them indoors, place them beside the fire for 2-3 weeks and test again. Last winter I found logs outside were at about 20-24% moisture but after 2-3 weeks inside a warm environment they dropped to between 8-12%. For me this made a fair difference when burning them. It makes sense really as humidity is so high in Ireland during winter so regardless of shelter logs stored outside are going to take on some moisture. Reducing that moisture before burning them will give you a better fire.

    That’s a good idea, thanks. I’ll report back the findings once I’ve got the meter


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭deadduck


    Blowheads wrote: »
    Damp timber to anthracite 😠you'll definitely notice the difference. Maybe some good smokeless coal to start before going for the rolls royce

    Got this in my local building providers today, 2 40kg bags for €36, seems ok value.


  • Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭Blowheads


    deadduck wrote: »
    Got this in my local building providers today, 2 40kg bags for €36, seems ok value.

    That's what I burn and that's a great coal and a very good price.
    It has a mix of anthracite but it's not pure anthracite, I reckon anthracite is over 20 a bag and is hard found

    Few shovels of supatherm blow you out of the room


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Anybody using the composite wood logs ? Lots of brands out there.
    We like the 'Flamers' which work out at about 77 cent each. They expand a nice bit but do burn quite quickly so need to keep the air flow down. Ashes are minimal enough - not even a small tray full. Any other recommendations ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,020 ✭✭✭blindsider


    Flamers Pinikay Hollow: 5 pack for €25

    Flamers Megatherm Solid: 3 packs for €11

    Both are 10Kg weight with the Flamers having a slightly better heat output, but I prefer the solid logs. I seem to get a better heat output from half a log than 1 of the Pinikays...?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    Bought a moisture meter out of curiosity, the one someone recommended on here. Thought it was a dud as it was reading 0% for all the logs. Checked the kindling and it went to 14.5% Is there an issue reading hardwood logs or can it actually be down to 0%?


  • Registered Users Posts: 856 ✭✭✭rebeve


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Anybody using the composite wood logs ? Lots of brands out there.
    We like the 'Flamers' which work out at about 77 cent each. They expand a nice bit but do burn quite quickly so need to keep the air flow down. Ashes are minimal enough - not even a small tray full. Any other recommendations ?

    I got a ton of rocket blaze wood last week , very impressive but you would need to use logs as well .


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,963 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    chris_ie wrote: »
    Bought a moisture meter out of curiosity, the one someone recommended on here. Thought it was a dud as it was reading 0% for all the logs. Checked the kindling and it went to 14.5% Is there an issue reading hardwood logs or can it actually be down to 0%?

    What's the Max it reads, it may register 0 if the moisture is above a certain level


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,798 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    People don't really use moisture meters correctly ime.

    I sell a little wood, very local to me, and won't sell what I wouldn't burn myself.

    If you are picking a few logs at random and just testing, you are not getting an accurate reading. The outside face of a split log will be the driest section. If you split that piece of wood you'll very often find a much higher reading on internal face.

    I will frequently measure 15% externally only to get 25 plus internally after splitting.

    Long term lovers of a wood fire would get good value buying wood in the spring and drying it themselves for the following winter. Covered on top split wood with good wind flow will be perfect come winter.

    Possible exception would be oak and beech which can be very hard to dry.

    To the poster with a black screen, stop burning that wood. It is inefficient, bad for environment and will lead to a blocked flue very quickly with the resultant CO risk.

    This country is a sh1t show in terms of wood quality, regulation when it comes to firewood


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    I wouldn’t obsess over the moisture meter anyways. Wood seems good and burns well. Tried it on split logs too, different places etc. but didn’t get anything above 0%. Not sure what max reading is.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,762 ✭✭✭masterboy123


    Guys,

    I am based in Limerick city. Looking to buy 1m3 or less of Ashwood.
    Any deals please?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,654 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    chris_ie wrote: »
    Bought a moisture meter out of curiosity, the one someone recommended on here. Thought it was a dud as it was reading 0% for all the logs. Checked the kindling and it went to 14.5% Is there an issue reading hardwood logs or can it actually be down to 0%?

    No way are the logs actually 0%, there would always be some moisture in them. Try putting a good bit of pressure on the probes for a few seconds when taking a reading from the logs and see does that work. If not check the troubleshooting section of the manual. If that doesnt work Id be sending it back.
    This country is a sh1t show in terms of wood quality, regulation when it comes to firewood

    Aint that the truth, theres a lot of crap being sold out there. Even what the supermarkets and pettrol stations sell is crap and theyve reputations to uphold. Some of the claims by fuel merchants too seem away with the fairies like that one place that claims olive burns three times longer than any other hardwood. Its incompetence at best and deception at worst.

    There are some regulations on the way for wood from the Dept of the Environment as part of their efforts to reduce carbon emissions, people burning wet wood are contributing towards this. One rule that has been muted is for a ban on the sale of any logs above 20% moisture. That would be a good start but like all things in this country its not very likely we will see much enforcement of it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    blindsider wrote: »
    Flamers Pinikay Hollow: 5 pack for €25

    Flamers Megatherm Solid: 3 packs for €11

    Both are 10Kg weight with the Flamers having a slightly better heat output, but I prefer the solid logs. I seem to get a better heat output from half a log than 1 of the Pinikays...?

    Are you sure the Megatherm are by Flamers ? The ones we use are Flamers Premium Wood Logs, 6 in a pack, 3 packs for €14. Think they are the only solid compressed logs they do but stand to be corrected. Ours is an inset stove.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,798 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    Aint that the truth, theres a lot of crap being sold out there. Even what the supermarkets and pettrol stations sell is crap and theyve reputations to uphold. Some of the claims by fuel merchants too seem away with the fairies like that one place that claims olive burns three times longer than any other hardwood. Its incompetence at best and deception at worst.

    People haven't a clue for the most part so they get away with it.

    About 4 years ago I sold ash at 20% to a guy with a few service stations. He said it flew out the door, when mine ran out he got it from another guy.

    I didn't check but it was green, definitely around 35%. I asked garage owned why would he even try sell it and he said it didn't matter. He made same margin on both of us and people in the town kept buying it.

    In Norway the max moisture content is 25% by law for years, but most will buy in bulk in spring and dry themselves.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,654 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Yeah its mad that the petrol stations get away with it. Its the OAP spending a fortune on smokey wood with not much heat out of it that I feel sorry for. Hopefully this proposed law prohibiting the sale of anything above 20% will at least help educate people in what they are buying. I suppose we dont have much of a log burning tradition in Ireland, coal has always been king. That will change in the coming years if their proposed ban on coal and turf goes through, then everyone will be burning wood and you would hope the standards of it go up with consumer demand. But for now it is very much buyer beware.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,279 ✭✭✭Cluedo Monopoly


    People don't really use moisture meters correctly ime.

    I sell a little wood, very local to me, and won't sell what I wouldn't burn myself.

    If you are picking a few logs at random and just testing, you are not getting an accurate reading. The outside face of a split log will be the driest section. If you split that piece of wood you'll very often find a much higher reading on internal face.

    I will frequently measure 15% externally only to get 25 plus internally after splitting.

    Long term lovers of a wood fire would get good value buying wood in the spring and drying it themselves for the following winter. Covered on top split wood with good wind flow will be perfect come winter.

    Possible exception would be oak and beech which can be very hard to dry.

    To the poster with a black screen, stop burning that wood. It is inefficient, bad for environment and will lead to a blocked flue very quickly with the resultant CO risk.

    This country is a sh1t show in terms of wood quality, regulation when it comes to firewood

    Would freshly cut logs in say February really be dry enough to burn come November if left in a sheltered but well aired spot?
    I did that with some Leylandi and Ash but I think they need a 2nd summer outside.

    What are they doing in the Hyacinth House?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,963 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Would freshly cut logs in say February really be dry enough to burn come November if left in a sheltered but well aired spot?
    I did that with some Leylandi and Ash but I think they need a 2nd summer outside.

    It depends on the weather, I have small diameter Ash, cut 3 years, stored outside in lengths, it's currently around 25% moisture, a year ago it was 20, there hasn't been a dry week since June, if it was under cover it would be less than 20%


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,020 ✭✭✭blindsider


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Are you sure the Megatherm are by Flamers ? The ones we use are Flamers Premium Wood Logs, 6 in a pack, 3 packs for €14. Think they are the only solid compressed logs they do but stand to be corrected. Ours is an inset stove.


    You might be right :o

    #8 and #9 on the list here:

    https://www.mdoshea.ie/Fuel/firewood-pellets-logs-online-cork-kerry

    5 x Flamers = €25

    3 x Megatherm = €11

    Using a Henley 5kw Inset in a 4m x 4m room - it's very comfortable I must say!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,798 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Would freshly cut logs in say February really be dry enough to burn come November if left in a sheltered but well aired spot?
    I did that with some Leylandi and Ash but I think they need a 2nd summer outside.

    Wood cut before it comes into leaf, now until early March will have its lowest growing moisture content.

    If it is cut AND split immediately and placed where it is covered and exposed to wind it will dry quickly.

    Trying to dry wood in long lengths is very slow; moisture can only get out on the ends. The greater the split area relative to volume the quicker it will dry.

    Bark is really good at stop moisture moving.

    I have about 50m3 of ash stacked in lengths off ground in forest, cut 9-12 months. I expect moisture now is 30-35%.(which it was close to when cut) I have another 30m3 taken out cut, split and covered which I'm burning myself and its just under 20%.

    I had it stored covered outside in IBC cages


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