Triton T90 SR Silent.

Sleeper12

It's very unlikely to be the shower itself

Electric shower going hot & cold
An electric shower going hot & cold means there is a restriction of water going through the shower. This is much more noticeable or extreme in warmer weather. Usually there are three things the homeowner can check and possibly rectify themselves.

Shower head
This is the simplest thing to check. Unscrew the shower head and run the shower without the head. If you can regulate the temperature without the head attached then the issue is with the head itself. If you don’t have a genuine Triton / Mira shower head this could be the problem. If you do have a genuine Triton / Mira shower head then it most likely needs to be descaled. Leave it steeping in white vinegar overnight to descale it. We have replacement shower heads on our on line store

Hose
It’s possible that the rubber tubing inside the shower hose has collapsed. Unscrew the head from the hose and the hose from the shower. Usually you can see if the tubing has collapsed, if not I would run the shower without the hose or with a different hose to see if the problem has vanished. If it is the hose and it needs replacing I suggest genuine Triton or Mira hoses. These are designed for electric showers and will have the correct diameter hole. If the diameter is too small it will restrict the water again causing it to go hot and cold.

Filter
The last thing to try is the filter. Usually this is inside the shower. Don’t forget the golden rule of making sure that the power is off to the shower before ever removing the cover. Once you are certain the power is off remove the cover and find the filter. We have most installation manuals on the site dublinshowerrepair.com free to download if you can’t find your own copy. You might need to shut off the water supply to some showers. Remove the filter and clean if necessary. Put the filter back in. On some showers you may need to commission the pump. Again this is simple and is explained in the installation manual. Put the cover on, turn the water on & turn the power on. If you still have the same issue at this stage then most likely your shower is so clogged with limescale that the element or the shower needs replacing.

Most often it’s the shower head causing the problem.

Taken from a Shower Repair website

punisher5112

boatbuilder wrote: »

I bought a T90sr from Woodies about six months ago and it has worked very well until this week.
Even though there seems to be a good flow of water, the temperature cycles hot and cold every 15 or 20 seconds. Even if you select a luke warm temperature, it cycles from luke warm to cold.
Any ideas?

Check hose isn't twisted.
Filter
Solenoid could be gone.

emeldc

I've given up trying to regulate my electric shower in the summer time, it would burn the bol**cks off you even when set to cold. Works OK during the winter.

John.G

Is it still too hot in the summer even with one element on?.

emeldc

John.G wrote: »

Is it still too hot in the summer even with one element on?.

On the ‘l’ setting it’s barely warm and the flow of water wouldn’t wet the sponge. On the ‘ll’ setting the flow is fine but as I said, too hot and regulating between hot and cold settings makes little difference.

John.G

Something strange there because the power setting has nothing to do with the flow, even with no element on it should flow exactly the same but definitely this flow rate should be adjustable with the temperature control, at this time of year you will need a relatively high flow rate of 6 to 8 LPM to get a comfortable (not too hot) showering temperature with both elements on, one element on now (which I am currently using) requires ~ 3 to 4 LPM, more or less the same as running with both elements on in the winter.

emeldc

John.G wrote: »

Something strange there because the power setting has nothing to do with the flow, even with no element on it should flow exactly the same but definitely this flow rate should be adjustable with the temperature control, at this time of year you will need a relatively high flow rate of 6 to 8 LPM to get a comfortable (not too hot) showering temperature with both elements on, one element on now (which I am currently using) requires ~ 3 to 4 LPM, more or less the same as running with both elements on in the winter.

What if I switched from mains to the tank with a small pump to keep the pressure steady.

John.G

I wouldn't recommend that, just retrofit a Triton T90SR or similar. I would though measure the flowrate from your existing shower with the temperature control turned fully anticlockwise, cleaning the filter & showerhead might give a marked improvement but if you have had a history of poor/fluctuating mains pressure then IMO the only way to go is with that (integrally) pumped shower.

boatbuilder

Had to replace the thermal cut off switch last week on my T90 SR.
Only about 7 months old.
Every time you switch off the shower it probably activates the tco because the water stuck inside the element overheats when you switch it off. So probably wears out the tco. Only way to avoid is to turn the shower to cold for a few seconds before switching off.
I just bought the tco for 25 euro and fitted myself because triton wanted to hold 70 euro on my card "in case the fault isn't covered by the guarantee"

Sleeper12

boatbuilder wrote:

Had to replace the thermal cut off switch last week on my T90 SR. Only about 7 months old. Every time you switch off the shower it probably activates the tco because the water stuck inside the element overheats when you switch it off. So probably wears out the tco. Only way to avoid is to turn the shower to cold for a few seconds before switching off. I just bought the tco for 25 euro and fitted myself because triton wanted to hold 70 euro on my card "in case the fault isn't covered by the guarantee"

Triton are pretty good with their warranty. The only way it wouldn't be covered is if the heating can /element is over heating due to limescale damage.

John.G

boatbuilder wrote: »

Had to replace the thermal cut off switch last week on my T90 SR.
Only about 7 months old.
Every time you switch off the shower it probably activates the tco because the water stuck inside the element overheats when you switch it off. So probably wears out the tco. Only way to avoid is to turn the shower to cold for a few seconds before switching off.
I just bought the tco for 25 euro and fitted myself because triton wanted to hold 70 euro on my card "in case the fault isn't covered by the guarantee"

There was and apparently still is problems with the TCO tripping and not re setting in (some of) these showers, the TCO should last for years, mine (Mira) is around 14 years old and my neighbour replaced a Triton T90SI last year of around the same age so assuming in both cases 4 showers/day, the TCO would have operated > 20k times so definitely not your problem except a problem with limescale.
This Link is two years old but worth reading.
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin//showthread.php?t=2057881543

coxy123

I am recently noticing that a 14 yr. old Triton T90 SI goes from normal heated temperature down to cold and after 5 sec. reverts to normal heated temp. This may happen twice during a 5 min. shower or on other occasions not at all :eek:!

Is it time to replace and opt for a T90 SR or is there anything to check?

John.G

I certainly wouldn't throw it out without a few simple checks first, the neighbour threw his out because he was doing up his bathroom, I took the old one apart before binning it and it was good for another few years IMO.

I would do the same test that I always suggest as a first measure, turn the temperature control full anti clockwise and place a dish/bucket under the spray head for exactly one minute and measure it.

Sleeper12

It could be a faulty TCO or a dodgy motor. Average lifespan is 10 years. Treat yourself to a new shower would be my advise. In fact we wouldn't offer repairs on anything that old TBH