Netatmo Smart Thermostat for €99 delivered

punisher5112

d31b0y wrote: »

Ah, I had either black or grey always going to neutral or switched live so this must be where I was going wrong. Now to try dig out netatmo wiring diagram.

http://www.e-heat.gr/index.php?attachments/valve-wiring-diagram-png.652/
First link I googled. So this would suggest grey to live and black to switched live, right?

It's on their site search netamo wiring diagram.

bootser

d31b0y wrote:

Ah, I had either black or grey always going to neutral or switched live so this must be where I was going wrong. Now to try dig out netatmo wiring diagram.

d31b0y wrote:

First link I googled. So this would suggest grey to live and black to switched live, right?

Only looking at this now. Yes your correct, the grey is connected to the live and when the stat calls for heat its connected to the black inside the relay, u should have your switched live connected to this to power your boiler.

gutteruu

bootser wrote: »

Only looking at this now. Yes your correct, the grey is connected to the live and when the stat calls for heat its connected to the black inside the relay, u should have your switched live connected to this to power your boiler.

Sorry to jump in, but is the diagram above correct? Is it ok for the black to energise the coil of a 240v relay only?

Special Circumstances

gutteruu wrote: »

Sorry to jump in, but is the diagram above correct? Is it ok for the black to energise the coil of a 240v relay only?

Indeed. I asked about this a few times.

I only see two diagrams of interest on google. One drawn by a randomer on a Greek forum showing the netatmo controlling a relay which in turn controls a valve. I was prepared to do it this way if necessary.

The only official diagram I can find relevant to polarity says "no polarity". But there are no official diagrams showing switching live to a valve.

The specs say a switching capacity of 120VA, or 0.5A at 240V. The average spring return 2port zone valve is well under this so should be fine. Hasn't caused a problem for me or others...... yet!

I wouldn't go driving a pump directly , I assume these draw more than 0.5A?

In my case it just so happens that I have connected the black wires of my netatmo relayboxs to applicable constant Live and greys (switched live) to the valves. I think. I'm not going opening the junction box again if I can avoid it.


As always, I like wiring and relays, mostly in a 12V DC context, but I am definitely NOT an electrician or even an experienced amateur in mains voltage stuff.

gutteruu

Thanks for info. I won't have any load. I will wire it to a relay coil as shown. It just seemed to me that the grey/black would be a low voltage (maybe even DC) for boilers as shown on their website. If people have successfully put mains 240v through it and its designed for that, I'm happy.

Winterlong

Looking at the wiring in the installation manual....
It shows that black wire is to Live supply and grey wire to Live return?
ie, Black to live and Grey to switched live? Or am I reading that completely wrong?

https://static.netatmo.com/therm/manual3_en-GB.pdf

Maybe we do need an electrician here!

Special Circumstances

gutteruu wrote: »

Thanks for info. I won't have any load. I will wire it to a relay coil as shown. It just seemed to me that the grey/black would be a low voltage (maybe even DC) for boilers as shown on their website. If people have successfully put mains 240v through it and its designed for that, I'm happy.

Won't you still be switching mains voltage through the coil :) ? OK the load will be teeny but you're still switching mains.

specs are:

Dry contact Thermostat (ON/OFF).
Maximum switching current: 4 A.
Maximum switching voltage: 250 VAC.
Maximum switching capacity: 120 VA (4A load @ 30V, 1A load @ 110V/120V or 0,5A load @ 220V/240V).

If you only read as far as the max current then you would be misled.

The Nest specs state 3A @ 230V AC for comparison.

Special Circumstances

Winterlong wrote: »

Looking at the wiring in the installation manual....
It shows that black wire is to Live supply and grey wire to Live return?
ie, Black to live and Grey to switched live? Or am I reading that completely wrong?

https://static.netatmo.com/therm/manual3_en-GB.pdf

Maybe we do need an electrician here!

That's the diagram that I was taking "no polarity" from. I see the Ls Lr now on the terminals.

I think we need that Home Automation forum stat! I have my own makey uppy jargon to describe things to myself so if us amateurs could even settle on one standard vocab for these things it would be a help.
In my "caution, not an electrician" head what is marked as Ls would be "constant live" and Lr would be "switched live".

The rest of the bargain alerters must be wondering why this thread is still going on and on!

bk

Special Circumstances wrote: »

I think we need that Home Automation forum stat!

It is currently being fast tracked by the admins.

yllw.ldbttr

Mods should really consider moving this thread to the heating and plumbing or home automation forums.


There's a wealth of information in this thread and it's likely to be found much easier in one of those forums than it is in bargain alerts.

bootser

Special Circumstances wrote:

Dry contact Thermostat (ON/OFF). Maximum switching current: 4 A. Maximum switching voltage: 250 VAC. Maximum switching capacity: 120 VA (4A load @ 30V, 1A load @ 110V/120V or 0,5A load @ 220V/240V).

It is ok to switch 240v but only up to .5a or 120w. In my own case the time clock switches on the boiler,115w and the circulating pump,45w at the medium setting, it also powers the 2 port spring return valves but this would be negligible power. So a total of aprox 160w. I am only using the netatmo to power another external relay which can switch bigger loads. But I would expect it to work fine if I switched it directly, just not last as long as it should.

reni10

After a few days I now have access to the ADVANCED HEATING ALGORITHM and have activated it and just wondering if anyone else is now using this also and sees any benefit over the normal algorithm?

yllw.ldbttr

reni10 wrote: »

After a few days I now have access to the ADVANCED HEATING ALGORITHM and have activated it and just wondering if anyone else is now using this also and sees any benefit over the normal algorithm?

I used it for a while before I disabled it.
Depends on whether you value comfort over economy.

ie, if you want the heating to come on at 5pm, or you want the house to be at the desired temperature at 5pm.
It will use the outside temp and your house's characteristics to fire the boiler as early as necessary to have the house at the specified temp, at the specified time, versus just firing the boiler at the specified time and turning it off once the desired temp is reached.
The flip side is that it will turn the boiler off a little earlier to avoid overshooting also.

I can see how it would be useful for some people, but it wasn't for me.

ThisRegard

We use it, but adjusted our heating calendar slightly. Works out great to have the house the desired temperature when you walk in the door rather than to wait for it to heat up, and you don't need to worry about the house getting cool if you don't have the heating set to be on while you're there.

We find it a bit pointless to use it as you would a dumb timer and thermostat.

getoffthepot

How long does it take for these things to ship?
Ordered Monday evening still no sign of it shipping.
Was hoping to have it to install at weekend.

yllw.ldbttr

getoffthepot wrote: »

How long does it take for these things to ship?
Ordered Monday evening still no sign of it shipping.
Was hoping to have it to install at weekend.

Took a week to dispatch and another week to get here.

punisher5112

Fed ex have it but sent a letter as they don't know where my house is even with full address.

yllw.ldbttr

punisher5112 wrote: »

Fed ex have it but sent a letter as they don't know where my house is even with full address.

But ironic that they sent a letter to the address that they couldn't find.

I had same problem, happens with every single delivery from Netatmo.
Their software truncates my mobile number by one digit so fed ex driver can't call me for directions.
I include an eircode but fed ex don't use them.

d31b0y

d31b0y wrote: »

Ah, I had either black or grey always going to neutral or switched live so this must be where I was going wrong. Now to try dig out netatmo wiring diagram.

http://www.e-heat.gr/index.php?attachments/valve-wiring-diagram-png.652/
First link I googled. So this would suggest grey to live and black to switched live, right?

Just wanted to come back and let you know that this wiring is working perfectly for me. Just replaced my dumb 24 hour clock with the relay and the stat is turning the heating on and off.

Time to play with my new toy.

Thanks everyone for the help. There was a day or two there that I thought it wouldn't work and I would be selling it on cheap but thanks to all of you, I got it working.

EDIT: there was a moment when I thought the stat wasn't working as the touch screen wasn't working to change the desired temp but then I realised that you had to have the stand or back plate connected before it would work. It doesn't actually tell you that in the instructions...

Pique

Has anyone replaced one of these with the Netatmo?

Is it a simple replacement?

d31b0y

Pique wrote: »

Has anyone replaced one of these with the Netatmo?

Is it a simple replacement?

This is exactly what I replaced above Pique. It was easy once I knew the wiring.

Pique

d31b0y wrote: »

Pique wrote: »

Has anyone replaced one of these with the Netatmo?

Is it a simple replacement?

This is exactly what I replaced above Pique. It was easy once I knew the wiring.

Sweet! Don't suppose you took photos of the wiring before you disconnected the old one and the after you connected the Netatmo? I was gonna do it tonight but don't fancy being stuck without heat over the weekend if I cock it up!

d31b0y

I have a pic of the wiring as it was a couple of pages back.
When you take the case off (two screws around the clock part) you will see 4 points on a PCB.
(1)Starting on the furthest left point is switched live out to the boiler
(2)Second is unused in the new setup (it was for the always on setting of the clock)
(3)Third is neutral
(4)Fourth is live

I left the points in place on the old clock and just wired the Netatmo in on top of it. It makes the job nice and neat. And I can revert back really easily, if ever I need to.

Anyway the wiring is as follows;
Black cable to (1)
(2) unused
Blue cable to (3)
Brown and grey cable to (4)

Then just drill a small hole in the plastic for the cable to fit out of and put the old clock back on, make sure the clock is in the off position and flick the power on.

See the pic of the job finished for me;
http://imgur.com/1D02eRK

punisher5112

Received mine earlier delivered by a nice chap from nightline couriers hope to get it set up over weekend.
Looks good and packaged well.
Just hope it's not restricted to apple as there is a sticker on rear stating only apple products.

yllw.ldbttr

punisher5112 wrote: »

Just hope it's not restricted to apple as there is a sticker on rear stating only apple products.

Works beautifully with my Android.

gutteruu

Can't get it to work with mine. Haven't tried too hard yet but it won't connect with relay for some reason.

Edit: got it sorted. Loving this little thing now. Halved my wood usage last night.

punisher5112

So got it as said before delivered and feels and looks of good quality, here is the process I went through.

I disconnected the time clock and connected neutral into they're own connector block then switched live to boiler and live feed and mains in together in another block.

Very easy job had all on wall and linked in 30 minutes and works a treat.

Love the app now just waiting for the cold but honestly that can stay well away.

Here are a few pics of setup.

getoffthepot

Got one of these today.

My heating is on a timer with no thermostat in use - see image attached.

The timer is a sunvic 107 xls.

It appears as if there are 2 lives and a neutral going into my timer.
any ideas on how I use the 3 wires to connect to the relay?

cheers.
http://imgur.com/AkskexI

Pique

Judging by what d31b0y explained above, I would say the live with the spur coming out is permanent and the other is switched.

I'd wait for someone else to confirm that though.

Are these still cheap anywhere without energia as I know someone looking for one?

Special Circumstances

Blue on far left goes to blue on relay wiring.
Brown to the right of that goes to brown of relay wiring AND it also goes to either the black OR the grey wire.

There may be a convention here. Not sure.

The brown wire on the far right goes to the last remaining relay wire.

Assuming of course that the load you are turning on draws less than 0.5Amps.

Caution, not an electrician...