turboing for the single-bike owner - question about turbo wheel

ILIKEFOOD

Last year I bought the tackx blue trainer.

Got fed up with fitting the training tyre so I bought a wheel and cassette etc to swop out with

The wheel was a the cheapest shimano 11sp compatible I could get, however I found my gears went a bit out off kilter with each swop out when I returned to the road.

If I were to buy the same real wheel I have on the bike - a mavic aksium should this solve my issue?

Or should I not be experiencing anything like the problem described with the shimano wheel?

Oh and the cassette on the turno wheel is a 105 and the on-the-road wheel is ultegra..

Brian?

You could simply turbo with whatever wheel you use on the road. It will wear the tyre out quicker, but you don't need to use the specific tyre.

68 lost souls

I use a sellers the wheel for turbo and road and don't notice this issue. What is the wear like on both cassettes and what ratio are they both?

NiallBoo

Maybe it's just my cheap turbo (used with an old road tyre), but between the metallic residue on the tyre and the unnatural wear pattern I wouldn't trust it to grip on the road at all.

OP: I had the same problem using cobbled together bits for a turbo wheel but managed to tweak spacers and what-not until I got an ok match.

Edit: if you are thinking about matching your road wheel, shouldn't it be enough to match the hub (and then maybe the cassette)?

terrydel

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

Last year I bought the tackx blue trainer.

Got fed up with fitting the training tyre so I bought a wheel and cassette etc to swop out with

The wheel was a the cheapest shimano 11sp compatible I could get, however I found my gears went a bit out off kilter with each swop out when I returned to the road.

If I were to buy the same real wheel I have on the bike - a mavic aksium should this solve my issue?

Or should I not be experiencing anything like the problem described with the shimano wheel?

Oh and the cassette on the turno wheel is a 105 and the on-the-road wheel is ultegra..

I had the same issue, I always felt the gears got out of kilter.
I dont get you on the issue of being fed up fitting the trainer tyre tho, cos it seems like you still had to do the same thing, just with a different wheel?

** Ah ignore that, I re-read it and I see you were swapping the tyre, not the wheel. That would be a pain in the arse alright!

ILIKEFOOD

Turbo wheel consists of

Shimano RS010 Clincher Rear Wheel Shimano/SRAM 10/11Sp Black
Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Cassette 11-28

Pretty much brand new so no wear

Road wheel is

Mavic Aksium 2014
Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Cassette 11-28

The cassette wear - i'm guessing there's about 10K on it. Not really sure how to gauge wear to be honest

I might try and match it all up - the cost of the original wheel and cassette appear to have come down since last year.

It would be great to sort it, I pretty much gave up last year, got way to annoying

Brian?

I think the real answer here is that you need Di2. It's self trimming. May as well get it on a new bike.

ILIKEFOOD

Brian? wrote: »

I think the real answer here is that you need Di2. It's self trimming. May as well get it on a new bike.

well I do have a spare c2w

gonna give it one more shot anyway with current set up..

Wouldnt have thought the dimensions of the cassette or the wheel hub would have been different, they shouldn't be surely, Surley?

Brian?

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

well I do have a spare c2w

gonna give it one more shot anyway with current set up..

Wouldnt have thought the dimensions of the cassette or the wheel hub would have been different, they shouldn't be surely, Surley?

There will always be a slight difference. For me it's usually nothing a tweak of the barrel adjuster won't fix.