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How much does a shop charge to replace pedals?

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  • Registered Users Posts: 890 ✭✭✭brocbrocach


    One thing: A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all). Still it's enjoyable to fit them and once you've done it once you'll have it forever.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭check_six


    Nor the best way to extend the length of the spanner!

    Bit of pipe to fit over the spanner is useful for removing the old pedals (they will be sticky). An old seat post does the job quite nicely. (Do not use a carbon seat post!). Your current seat post will do if nothing else is available.
    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I was told a handy way to remember which way to screw on/off the pedals.

    Imagine the spanner on the pedal stem with the handle pointing to the ceiling. "To go forward, you'll need pedals installed", so the spanner is turned forwards (towards the front wheel) to install the pedals. So tightening means turning anti-clockwise on the left and clockwise on the right.

    Well, I found it handy.

    Non-drive side is wrong way thread. I always struggle to remember this when actually doing the job, but writing it down seems straightforward enough.

    But what if the omens are bad and the bike is upside down, and there is a full moon, and a two headed calf has just been born? What then? :eek::eek:

    Consult your local shaman in all cases.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,769 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I've a very visual memory, and I never forget using the "pedal spanner pointing up" mnemonic. Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way". It's liable to turn into "drive side is wrong way".


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way".

    I can never remember which is which either and I've given up trying to remember. I just use Google before I start swinging spanners.
    A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all).
    A normal 15mm spanner may be too thick for some pedals which require the narrower pedal spanner.

    I can't remember why exactly but Dura Ace 9000 pedals can ony be fitted/removed with an allen key.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,762 ✭✭✭jive


    One thing: A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all). Still it's enjoyable to fit them and once you've done it once you'll have it forever.

    You can pick them up for about €5 online (a thin 15mm for pedals).

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-cone-spanner/rp-prod10200

    Just buy another €6 worth of crap to make it up to the €9 free delivery threshold.

    Grease:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-lithium-grease/rp-prod5959

    Socks:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/one-industries-one-no-show-socks/rp-prod137344

    €3.49 + €3.49 + €2.49 = €9.47


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,622 ✭✭✭happytramp


    Both pedals tighten by turning them toward the front of the bike.. Easy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I've a very visual memory, and I never forget using the "pedal spanner pointing up" mnemonic. Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way". It's liable to turn into "drive side is wrong way".

    "Undo is backpedal".

    This of course means that you cannot use the bike to lever against when trying to undo a seized pedal...


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,769 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    happytramp wrote: »
    Both pedals tighten by turning them toward the front of the bike.. Easy.

    ... unless your spanner is pointing towards the ground to begin with.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,769 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    "Undo is backpedal".

    This of course means that you cannot use the bike to lever against when trying to undo a seized pedal...

    I always place the spanner so it forms an acute angle with the crank and use both hands to squeeze the spanner and the crank together. No nasty sudden jolts. Probably too little force for a seized pedal though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 890 ✭✭✭brocbrocach


    jive wrote: »
    You can pick them up for about €5 online (a thin 15mm for pedals).

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-cone-spanner/rp-prod10200

    Just buy another €6 worth of crap to make it up to the €9 free delivery threshold.

    Grease:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-lithium-grease/rp-prod5959

    Socks:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/one-industries-one-no-show-socks/rp-prod137344

    €3.49 + €3.49 + €2.49 = €9.47

    I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,769 ✭✭✭cython


    I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

    Typically not for removing tightly stuck pedals (the spanner itself may bend before the pedals move), as they are even thinner. They might do a job to install pedals though, I guess?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,762 ✭✭✭jive


    I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

    I actually have this one:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-pedal-spanner/rp-prod10190

    Cost €1 more. I didn't realise I had linked a cone spanner - I have used a cone spanner in the past and it was grand though. Only difference I've noticed is that a cone spanner is thinner and weaker and generally shorter so you get less leverage.

    I'd imagine go for a pedal spanner rather than cone as it's fit for purpose and only €1 in the difference. If this is a one-time job and the pedals aren't absolutely wedged then cone spanner might be sufficient.


  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭horslips


    I remember by thinking that the right hand pedal goes the "right" way, i.e. like a normal thread.

    Watch out if you flip the bike upside down to reverse the sides.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

    Cone spanner is for adjusting cup and cone bearings. It's so thin because a standard spanner won't fit behind the lock nut. It should never be used with much force in the first place.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    crosstownk wrote: »
    ... Dura Ace 9000 pedals can ony be fitted/removed with an allen key.
    Look pedals also require an allen key.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,976 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    This thread is unreal :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭Galego


    Thanks everyone for taking your time and giving me very good tips.

    I removed the strap metal pedals the bike came with and fitted some Shimano r450 (using some grease on it).

    Now time for me to get used to the clipless pedals! :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,928 ✭✭✭letape


    horslips wrote: »
    I remember by thinking that the right hand pedal goes the "right" way, i.e. like a normal thread.

    Watch out if you flip the bike upside down to reverse the sides.

    That's how I have always remembered myself - the right hand pedal goes the "right" way (clockwise to tighten) and the left pedal goes the "wrong" way.


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