Changing to 52/36 from 50/34...yae or nae?

dahat

Been cycling around 11 months on a 50/34 with 11/28 and progressed quickly in that time.

How do you know of a 52 would suit better than a 50? Sounds pathetic but my 50 feels a bit novicey and I'm keen to try a 52 but it isn't cost effective to try one out really.

Anyone change to a 52 from 50 and how was it? Adjustment period take long? Not sure if I could "push it" either really.

Leroy42

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

Leroy42

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

Eamonnator

I have 50/34 on my good bike and 52/36 on my winter bike.
In normal circumstances, I don't really notice the difference.

magicbastarder

i've a 53/39 and spend 90% of the time on the 39. it's generally only on downhills or good tailwinds that i move to the big ring.

dahat

Leroy42 wrote: »

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

I'd like to try some early races next year and not sure I'd hold in on a 50 11.


Wouldn't say I'm spinning out and I do use the 34 28 on big hills, Mahon, Seskin etc...

I'm just looking to progress and a step to a bigger crank may bring some improvement maybe.

dahat

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've a 53/39 and spend 90% of the time on the 39. it's generally only on downhills or good tailwinds that i move to the big ring.

53 39 is savage big, wouldn't even entertain a 53.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

I have 50/34 on my good bike and 52/36 on my winter bike.
In normal circumstances, I don't really notice the difference.

I was advised to go the opposite to you.

tuxy

How much time do you spend in 50x11?

If you plan to race next season then it's possible you may need the 52/53 crank to keep up on some steep sections.

If your asking because you can keep it in the 50 for most of your cycle then that's a good thing, I hate making shifts on the front derailleur. You may have to use the small ring more often if you change to 52/36.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

How much time do you spend in 50x11?

If you plan to race next season then it's possible you may need the 52/53 crank to keep up on some steep sections.

If your asking because you can keep it in the 50 for most of your cycle then that's a good thing, I hate making shifts on the front derailleur. You may have to use the small ring more often if you change to 52/36.

I'm not the best climber and would likely use the 36 on hills or gradients. At the moment I'm trying to stay on the small ring to improve cadence etc for the winter but I did find towards the latter end of season gone I was spending most of my cycle on the 50.

tuxy

dahat wrote: »

I'm not the best climber and would likely use the 36 on hills or gradients.

Then I would think the 34 is perfect for you on hills. the main reason to use a 36 small ring is so you can use a larger big ring as there is a limit to how much of a jump between cogs a front derailleur can manage. 52/34 would not work, the jump up is too large.

The only reason to change is if you need the bigger ring.
So if you find yourself blasting down a steep decent and you are as aero as you can be and other riders are still pulling away then you may need 52x11 or 53x11. It's only relevant if you train or race with others that are of a high level.

Btw 50x11 at 110 cadence is 63 km/h.
52x11 is 65.5.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

Then I would think the 34 is perfect for you on hills. the main reason to use a 36 small ring is so you can use a larger big ring as there is a limit to how much of a jump between cogs a front derailleur can manage. 52/34 would not work, the jump up is too large.

The only reason to change is if you need the bigger ring.
So if you find yourself blasting down a steep decent and you are as aero as you can be and other riders are still pulling away then you may need 52x11 or 53x11. It's only relevant if you train or race with others that are of a high level.

Btw 50x11 at 110 cadence is 63 km/h.
52x11 is 65.5.

Lads in the club are quick and strong, a2/a4 level.

Being a year older cycling wise then maybe another year on the 50 34 to see how I'm going with my new and hopefully stronger second season legs before I change the crank.

Or maybe try a 12 25 with the 50 34, is that a feasible option?

How often do you use the 50x11 versus the 34x28

dahat

ronoc wrote: »

How often do you use the 50x11 versus the 34x28

I do use the 50 11 at high pace or in full flight. I tend to be at the front end of the pace if it isn't a hilly sportive or club mini league.

To quantify it would be difficult.

Eamonnator

dahat wrote: »

I was advised to go the opposite to you.

I actually swopped the chain sets on mine, so that I'd have 34-28, on my good bike, for hilly sportives like Wicklow 200 and Gran Fondo Belfast.
I have raced(badly) with 50/34 and 11/28.

tuxy

dahat wrote: »

Or maybe try a 12 25 with the 50 34, is that a feasible option?

Sure is and the smaller jump between cogs can help stay in your optimal cadence, If you're using Shimano 11 speed, 11-25 or 11-23 is also an option if you buy an Ultegra cassette. Just don't leave yourself without the gearing to comfortably get up some of the steeper hills in your area. You're in south Tipp and I know there are some tough climbs around there.

I'd leave it for now 50/34 is great for training.
When the winter is over and people are picking up the pace again then consider it if you find you sometimes spin out. if you can spin out 50x11 then fair play, it takes a good deal of strength to do that.

tuxy

Also the only problem I have with compact cranks(this will happen on both 50/34 and 52/36) is I have to shift a good bit on the back before shifting to the small ring because it is a large jump down. The only way to solve this is to switch to 53/39 but I'm not yet strong enough to power 39x28 up some of the steeper hills.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

Sure is and the smaller jump between cogs can help stay in your optimal cadence, If you're using Shimano 11 speed, 11-25 or 11-23 is also an option if you buy an Ultegra cassette. Just don't leave yourself without the gearing to comfortably get up some of the steeper hills in your area. You're in south Tipp and I know there are some tough climbs around there.

I'd leave it for now 50/34 is great for training.
When the winter is over and people are picking up the pace again then consider it if you find you sometimes spin out. if you can spin out 50x11 then fair play, it takes a good deal of strength to do that.

Good bike has 11 speed Ultegra so the 11 25 is something I could try and would be an easier trial as I could use the cassette for winter turbo if it didn't work out.

I guess giving up on the 34 ring when I'm not the best climber isn't a good idea in hindsight given where I live really.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

I actually swopped the chain sets on mine, so that I'd have 34-28, on my good bike, for hilly sportives like Wicklow 200 and Gran Fondo Belfast.
I have raced(badly) with 50/34 and 11/28.

Badly as in left behind or just not suitable to race on?

I can push a good bit of power when needed.

Lumen

dahat wrote: »

I'd like to try some early races next year and not sure I'd hold in on a 50 11..

If you get dropped it won't be because your chainring is too small.

ford2600

You can view spinning out as not having a high enough gear or not being able to spin fast enough

Reaching for the credit card isn't the only answer....

Perhaps google drills track cyclists use to improve your upper cadence limit; it's not fixed or set in stone.

Eamonnator

dahat wrote: »

Badly as in left behind or just not suitable to race on?

I can push a good bit of power when needed.

Badly as in old and fat.

dahat

ford2600 wrote: »

You can view spinning out as not having a high enough gear or not being able to spin fast enough

Reaching for the credit card isn't the only answer....

Perhaps google drills track cyclists use to improve your upper cadence limit; it's not fixed or set in stone.

Been doing some work with cadence via Trainerroad with the program I have chosen to follow and have found improvements in my cadence even after two nearly three weeks..

It's all a learning curve and anyone I know who has raced or is racing are all pushing 52 and bigger so I was curious to know at what point one decides to go for it.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

Badly as in old and fat.

Quite similar in cyclist terms myself.... The omens aren't good...

albert kidd

if your going racing the compact wont do when it comes to the gallop.

dahat

albert kidd wrote: »

if your going racing the compact wont do when it comes to the gallop.

Even in A4 grade?

Why won't it do?

ford2600

dahat wrote: »

Even in A4 grade?

Why won't it do?

Your clubmate EB max speed to 5th in an A4 was 61kmph. IF you can spin at 110 in 50/11 you can just exceed that speed.

Only you know what you can spin at.

magicbastarder

dahat wrote: »

53 39 is savage big, wouldn't even entertain a 53.

huh - i'm running 53/39 on front, with 13-26 on the back. would not even entertain 53-13 except on a good long downhill, and that's about 10% lower a ratio than 50-11.

Casula

I got rid of 50/34 set up for a 52/39 a good few years ago. Much prefer it. Spend most of my time in the 39. Only find myself switching to big ring once speed is up over 35kph odd. Usually run a 11/28 or 12/27 cassette as prefer to spin up hills around Wicklow and found myself grinding too much when 39/25 was lowest gear. I also find the drop from the big ring to the 39 more smooth compared to dropping down to the 34 from big ring with compact.

dahat

ford2600 wrote: »

Your clubmate EB max speed to 5th in an A4 was 61kmph. IF you can spin at 110 in 50/11 you can just exceed that speed.

Only you know what you can spin at.

Can't see myself being able to maintain a 110 in 50 11 plus I wouldn't hold a candle to him if I'm being honest.

tuxy

Casula wrote: »

I got rid of 50/34 set up for a 52/39 a good few years ago. Much prefer it. Spend most of my time in the 39. Only find myself switching to big ring once speed is up over 35kph odd.

If you leave it until that speed to switch to the big ring wouldn't this mean you are cross chaining frequently?