Distance to set a . 22 at?

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

What distance should I set a .22 at 50 or 70 yards? Or what distance?

Thanks

yubabill1

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant wrote: »

What distance should I set a .22 at 50 or 70 yards? Or what distance?

Thanks

I always zeroed at 25yds; this makes the bullet fly a little high (1") at 50 and back bang on at 75.

Found this zero good to 90yds with no compensation with high velocity ammo.

German pointer

I use sub's so it's a little different from the post above.
50 yard zero is same as 25 yard zero for me and holdover or dial as necessary

ezra_

75m.

Bit of range time helped sort out the over/under holding for shooting at 100 and 50m, and the midpoints between.

cookimonster

Approximately 50 yards zero and I'm 'minute of bunny head' from 10 yards to 75 yards, does me fine with LV hollow points.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Thanks do ye use subs or high velocity bullets? And would I have to reset the rifle if I was using subs but wanted to change? Also would high velocity bullets be better for foxes? Thanks sorry for all the questions as I'm only new to rifle shooting hopefully I'll get my licence soon and want to be ready to set the rifle when I get it!

Cass

I keep a 50 yard zero on my rifle always. I use it for hunting as well as target shooting so keep the 50 yard zero and know my drops out to 100. I'ts on average, with subs, 6" form 50 to 100 yards.

If its solely for hunting i'd stick a 70 - 75 yard zero on and hold off.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant wrote: »

Thanks do ye use subs or high velocity bullets?

Subs. Always.

HV rounds are inaccurate and negate the usefulness of the suppressor.

And would I have to reset the rifle if I was using subs but wanted to change?

From subs to HV? Yes. Muzzle velocity of the HV is more than the subs so a new zero and new drop chart is needed for them.

Also would high velocity bullets be better for foxes?

This is a tough one for me. i'd never use a 22 on a fox. I just don't like it. Not enough power, and the margin for error is too big. If i'm out with the 22 its for small game. If i see a fox i usually just let him off and come back another day with the 223.

Thanks sorry for all the questions

It's why the forum is here so ask away.

Rimfire Shooter

I zero subs at 50 yards & HV at 70 yards. Aim off as required. I've shot 1,000's of foxes over 35+ years with my .22lr with both subs & HV. .22lr is a very capable round in the right hands. Know & stick to the limits of your abilities.

Cass

I wouldn't disagree, but with age and time i've adpated. When all i had was the 22 i used it to great success, but now i set out with a specific gun and purpose. So 22 for me is only for small game, and i'm not that pushed to shoot something that i'll fire at a fox with it.

Rimfire Shooter

There's an old saying that goes something like "Beware the man with one gun, he'll know how to use it".

yubabill1

Seeing as you're new to rifle shooting, I'll pass on some advice I got when I was starting -

Find a round that your rifle likes and stick with it.

It's good rule until you find your feet.

Not all HV rounds are inaccurate, I used RWS HV HP's for years with great accuracy, don't know that they would be called HV by today's standards, but they were noticeably faster and harder-hitting than standard velocity.

You can kill anything around this country with a 22LR, given the shot is placed right and the range is not too far - but that doesn't mean that you should - many people have shot foxes with 22LR, including myself, but I will admit to wounding too many until I learned to kill them cleanly with the 22.
Sure, I've killed many a fox with one well-placed 22 bullet, but I've had plenty of foxes that took round after round and it's not the way I like to do things.

The 22LR will kill a rabbit humanely, sometimes even with a badly-placed shot, or at the very least incapacitate him until you get another round into him, which will most likely finish the job. Rabbits are tough, probably the toughest quarry to kill in many ways, as they will do anything to get into the burrow if shot and wounded, so I'm always ready for a follow-up shot.

The 22LR will not kill a fox humanely unless it hits a vital organ at the correct range. That's the critical difference.

I envy you starting out for the first time.

tac foley

In general -

Standard velocity = ~1050 fps.

High velocity = ~1400 fps.

tac

Cass

Rimfire Shooter wrote: »

There's an old saying that goes something like "Beware the man with one gun, he'll know how to use it".

True, but what about the man with multiple guns that knows how to use them?

yubabill1 wrote: »

Find a round that your rifle likes and stick with it.

Good advice right there.

Not all HV rounds are inaccurate..........

True, but to find the ones that works well, and not i mean well, not great, compared to subs that even on a bad day will give you better results.

You can kill anything around this country with a 22LR, given the shot is placed right and the range is not too far - but that doesn't mean that you should -

Good advice again.

tac foley wrote: »

In general -

Standard velocity = ~1050 fps.

High velocity = ~1400 fps.

tac

I've seen some that state on the box (which is not a great indicator) 1,600 fps. As most 22lrs are a slow twist rate 1:16 or slower i've found they just don't stablise well in them.

tac foley

That is so. That's why I wrote ~.

Expediter and Mini-Mags tend to be almost as fast as the WMR - which is supposed to be ~1600 fps.

However, all the comments I've read here in support of the use of .22RF on foxes has to bear weight by successful results.

tac

Cass

Over here, PaddySP, a prolific writer on foxing and a doctor [BTW] only uses any of his variety of centre-fires on foxes - .222,.223, .204 Ruger and so on. Mind you, he also has a .17HMR and .17 Hornet.

I have shot foxes with my 22 when it was all i had. Like the lads above i've learned the hard way about shot placement. However with the availability of much better rounds such as the 223, as you said about that chap, i now no longer use the rimfire on foxes. The animal deserves a clean kill and if using a much higher energy round guarantees that, then that is what i use.

When i started shooting i knew no better, hence my comment above about "time and age".

sniperman

i have a .22 lr for many years,could not begin to count the amount of rabbits i have taken,i use winchester subsonic,and zero at 50 yards,with a bit of hold over ive head shot out to 90 yards,get to know your hold over/under,and have fun.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Thanks everyone for the help and tips! Muchly appreciated! Is a head shot any better than a heart shot starting off as you have a smaller area and more likely that it will be a clean hit or miss? Thanks just want to have as much knowledge as I can for the first time I go out with it!

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Also just wondering how to find out the model of the gun? Thanks

Rimfire Shooter

Cass wrote: »

I highlighted the important part. Question: If 22lr for deer shooting was legal in the morning would you shoot deer with it?

Yes as I'd have to get to about 50 yards of it to get a kill. The stalk would be more important to me than the kill.

Cass

It should be on the actual gun. Make, model, and caliber.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Cass wrote:

It should be on the actual gun. Make, model, and caliber.

Thanks would it be stamped on the barrel of it?

Cass

Should look like this:

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Cass wrote:

Should look like this:

OK thanks!

Cass

I've moved all non thread related posts into their own thread so as not to spoil the OPs thread further.

Thread is here - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057681353#

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Cass wrote:

Should look like this:

Would the model be .22lr?

Cass

Is it a CZ?

cavan shooter

30 yards CCI or Winchester subs in my 10/22.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Cass wrote:

Is it a CZ?

It just says Krico on the barrel where it was made and .22lr

Cass

Thats pretty much it so. It's a Krico, 22lr. As for the exact model just type Krico bolt action 22 lr into Google and you'll find the various models. Not so up on Krico having never owned one.

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Cass wrote:

Thats pretty much it so. It's a Krico, 22lr. As for the exact model just type Krico bolt action 22 lr into Google and you'll find the various models. Not so up on Krico having never owned one.

OK thanks!

tac foley

@OP - if you have good close look at the left-hand side of the barrel where it joins the action you'll see some very small stamps. They are called proof marks, and will identify the date of the rifle either by the last two figures of the date it was proofed, or a set of code letters. As Krico has been making .22 calibre sporting rifles since the middle 1950's, this will help us date the gun, and maybe put a type designator on it, too. Is it a bolt-action, or Krico's rather odd semi-auto/bolt action?

tac

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

It is bolt action saw a little thing that looked like an antler or something engraved alright! I'll have a better look tomorrow!

tac foley

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant wrote: »

It is bolt action saw a little thing that looked like an antler or something Ingraved alright! I'll have a better look tomorrow!

That's exactly what it is! That is the proof stamp of the Ulm Proof House since at least 1955.

tac

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

tac foley wrote:

That's exactly what it is! That is the proof stamp of the Ulm Proof House since at least 1955.

Thanks so what exactly tell me except that it was made after 1955?

Czhornet

60 yds for my .22 lr and 100 yds for my .22 magnum, any distance nearer or further I can adjust as necessary, 2nd nature to me now!

tac foley

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant wrote: »

Thanks so what exactly tell me except that it was made after 1955?

IF you read the rest of my post you'll see that I asked you to look for two numbers or letters - the first is the last two digits of the date of proof, and the last is a code for the date of proof. Depending on that date it will be one or the other, but not both. The first will be obvious, like 86 or 92, the second will not be obvious, and that is why it is called a code - deciphering it requires knowledge of the various code letters used by German Proof Houses since 1952 to now. To save you all scrabbling for your tattered copy of the codes, here is the decode -

0 [zero]..........A
1...................B
2...................C
3...................D
4...................E
5...................F
6...................G
7...................H
8...................I/J [SIG Cologne uses J - the letter I is depicted in German Fraktur type face as a capital J]
9...................K

So if your rifle had the stamp HE, it was proofed in the year 1974.

tac

tac foley

By the way, this site, run by paddy_SP over here in SW England, might be of interest to many here...

http://foxonic.com/

tac

tac foley

Paddy just sent me details of his gear to share with you -

Hi Tac,
I use a Kimber Montana in .204 Ruger - before that I used my Sauer .22-250 (which I still have), but I much prefer the .204 - it has so little recoil that I can use an add-on with no risk of a black eye, for a start! We dropped our 340th fox of the year last night - still 15 short of last year's total, but we've got until the end of the month to catch up! My shooting partner uses a .22-250, by the way.

I also have .22 and .25 in FAC air (the former for bunnies, the latter for rats), as well as a CZ HMR (mostly bunnies, squirrels and corvids) and a Sauer .308 (red deer).

If there's anything else you'd like to know, just shout!
Cheers,
Paddy

Hope it's useful to some of you.

tac

Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

Thanks for the information really appreciate it! Hopefully I'll send away for my license this week but don't hold any hope of getting it this side of Christmas! Will let ye know when I get it! Any more advice welcome aswell Thanks!

J.R.

I use Winchester Super X© sub-sonic bullet and the Eley Xtra© sub-sonic bullets with a Parker - Hale moderator.

I zero at 75 yards.

The rabbits I now hunt are very wary and you would be lucky to get within 60 yards of them....sometimes (rarely) you may get a shot at 40 yards.........most shots taken at 70 - 80 yards.

As the land I shoot varies between areas where rabbits are twitchy, nervous and wary to other areas where rabbits are not bothered unless you get too close my shooting distances, when hunting, can vary between 40 – 85 yards. To cover such a range with the .22 LR bullets I prefer to zero my rifle now at 75 yards.

I’ve found that both the Winchester Super X© sub-sonic bullet and the Eley Xtra© sub-sonic bullet , zeroed at 75 yards will similarly have a near zero at 12 yards, will be 1.7” high at 50 yards, bang on at 75 yards and 4.2” low at 100 yards. That sighting will put the bullet low by over 4" at 100 yards, but I resist the temptation to take those shots, because the energy of the little bullet falls off pretty quickly.

This usefully ‘flat’ trajectory allows humane shots on squirrels and rabbits at the ranges at which they are usually hunted. The near zero can be useful for testing the rifle later for accuracy and zero. If it’s accurate at 12 yards zero then it is bang on again at 75 yards. From 20 yards to 80 yards the bullet will roughly be no higher or lower than 1½”, as it travels along its path, which should hit a vital organ.

With my rifle zeroed in at 75 yards, using Winchester Super X© sub-sonic bullets, I’ve worked out that with the "duplex" scope reticule on the Simmons Whitetail Classic 6-20X50 , using the thick/thin junction of the top crosshair as the aiming point, it’s ‘on’ at 50 yards with the scope set at 10x. Using the thick/thin junction of the bottom crosshair as the aiming point it’s also ‘on’ again at 100 yards with the scope set at 16x.

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Crow Pigeon and Pheasant

@ JR - Thanks again for more useful information! Thanks any more advice is welcome aswell!