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General sheep thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 553 ✭✭✭Young95


    DJ98 wrote: »
    What would be the best way to fix a handling race to concrete, at the minute the way it is once the sheep enter it they turn it over, completely dismantle it almost. Need someway of fixing it down permanently.

    What make of race is it DJ ?


  • Posts: 6,192 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    DJ98 wrote: »
    What would be the best way to fix a handling race to concrete, at the minute the way it is once the sheep enter it they turn it over, completely dismantle it almost. Need someway of fixing it down permanently.

    Rawbolt it to the ground

    Or else get posts made up and raw-bolt em to the ground and attach the gates/penning to these posts


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,178 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    richie123 wrote: »
    True ..I tried footvax and no It diddnt work for me.maybe I did something wrong I don't know
    Maybe there's a more effective vaccine out there now.

    I don't use foot vax, just stressing that prevention is better than trying to cure,


  • Registered Users Posts: 790 ✭✭✭richie123


    wrangler wrote: »
    I don't use foot vax, just stressing that prevention is better than trying to cure,

    Agree..prevention that's cost effective and works is better than cure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭DJ98


    Young95 wrote: »
    What make of race is it DJ ?

    Stanley


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,085 ✭✭✭AntrimGlens


    DJ98 wrote: »
    What would be the best way to fix a handling race to concrete, at the minute the way it is once the sheep enter it they turn it over, completely dismantle it almost. Need someway of fixing it down permanently.

    Can you get your hands on some box section? I made up a few joiners for a race.
    Weld a couple of lugs onto a piece of box section about 6" and 3ft of the ground and drop your pins through the lugs of each hurdle and through the box section.
    I kangoed out a section of concrete, set in a sleeve and then dropped in the piece of box section, it can all be removed if needed, plenty sturdy and no chance of them busting it. Or you can buy the galvanised ones.

    531480.JPG


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭kk.man


    DJ98 wrote: »
    Stanley

    This is what I have inside in a shed I added another at the end of it.

    https://www.foxbros.ie/product/8-complete-sheep-footbath-race/


  • Registered Users Posts: 553 ✭✭✭Young95


    kk.man wrote: »
    This is what I have inside in a shed I added another at the end of it.

    https://www.foxbros.ie/product/8-complete-sheep-footbath-race/

    How much was that race can I ask ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭DJ98




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭roosky


    When foot bathing the advice is to allow sheep to stand for an hour on concrete after foot bathing.

    I always do this but find it a pain to have to wait an hour before moving to the next job which is usually moving sheep back to grass which for me is mostly on the road so time is of the essence with these short evenings.

    So my question is if I footbath first and then do an hours work of dosing, vaccinating etc would that work the same seeing as they would be on concrete all of that hour just be a case of them
    walking/running up race.

    TIA


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭kk.man


    roosky wrote: »
    When foot bathing the advice is to allow sheep to stand for an hour on concrete after foot bathing.

    I always do this but find it a pain to have to wait an hour before moving to the next job which is usually moving sheep back to grass which for me is mostly on the road so time is of the essence with these short evenings.

    So my question is if I footbath first and then do an hours work of dosing, vaccinating etc would that work the same seeing as they would be on concrete all of that hour just be a case of them
    walking/running up race.

    TIA

    I think an hour is too much. I do 20 mins it's only drying they need. I definitely do 20 mins in summer but I suppose with damp weather like we are getting now they want to be a bit longer. Make sure the holding pen is dry before they enter. I have a few jobs lined up while I wait for them to dry out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭roosky


    kk.man wrote: »
    I think an hour is too much. I do 20 mins it's only drying they need. I definitely do 20 mins in summer but I suppose with damp weather like we are getting now they want to be a bit longer. Make sure the holding pen is dry before they enter. I have a few jobs lined up while I wait for them to dry out.

    So you would feel it’s worthwhile leaving them stand rather than footbathing and letting it dry as they run are dosed etc


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,823 Mod ✭✭✭✭Siamsa Sessions


    roosky wrote: »
    So you would feel it’s worthwhile leaving them stand rather than footbathing and letting it dry as they run are dosed etc

    Keeping them in the yard after footbathing means they are not going back out to muck and wet grass straight away. If you start dosing, vaccinating, etc. they might get a little muck on their feet depending on how many you have, how mucky the yard is, and the weather (rain vs sunshine). But then again, they might get little or no muck on their feet.

    Either way, they're not going straight back out to muck/grass outside the yard. So, I'd be inclined to footbath and then let it soak in while you dose, etc.

    Trading as Sullivan’s Farm on YouTube



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭kk.man


    roosky wrote: »
    So you would feel it’s worthwhile leaving them stand rather than footbathing and letting it dry as they run are dosed etc

    Mine run thru a race/footbath they get dosed injected etc in the race footbath and then out to concrete for 20mins to 30mins.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭roosky


    Thanks all,

    So its the case of keeping the feet clean post foot bathing rather than leaving them standing.

    my set up means they go from one holding pen, through the race and footbath and into another pen so I can just ensure the pens are kept swept out


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭orm0nd


    Muck doesn't affect zinc sulphate, think wrangler's o/h done trials on that

    We've have rented ground and when footpath there we let them straight out the field. We used to try and hold them in the trailer for a while but gave up doing that. We use a sticker in the footbath mix.

    At home we hold on concrete for half an hour


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,156 ✭✭✭MIKEKC


    Dipped all sheep a month ago.dip still in covered tank. Bought a few lambs today would it be safe to dip these in stale dip


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,085 ✭✭✭AntrimGlens


    MIKEKC wrote: »
    Dipped all sheep a month ago.dip still in covered tank. Bought a few lambs today would it be safe to dip these in stale dip

    I wouldn’t advise it, a neighbour did it a few years ago and the dip was only a few days old. He got a serious amount of lame sheep afterwards. There’s a bacteria Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae that is found in dung and soil which could cause lameness if the dip is heavily contaminated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,321 ✭✭✭razor8


    MIKEKC wrote: »
    Dipped all sheep a month ago.dip still in covered tank. Bought a few lambs today would it be safe to dip these in stale dip

    A definite no no. Would have no benefit whatsoever


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭DJ98


    Anyone here house dry ewe lambs over the winter, usually feed them meal and beet outdoors but was considering housing this year for 2 or 3 months and feeding indoors to save ground and also make it more suitable for late evening and early morning feeding


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,178 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    DJ98 wrote: »
    Anyone here house dry lambs over the winter, usually feed them meal and beet outdoors but was considering housing this year for 2 or 3 months and feeding indoors to save ground and also make it more suitable for late evening and early morning feeding

    I house my ewe lambs on straw and meal every year with no ill effects, it's very easy sicken them so any change in feed has to be veerrry gradually. That'd be the same thing as your lambs


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,823 Mod ✭✭✭✭Siamsa Sessions


    DJ98 wrote: »
    Anyone here house dry ewe lambs over the winter, usually feed them meal and beet outdoors but was considering housing this year for 2 or 3 months and feeding indoors to save ground and also make it more suitable for late evening and early morning feeding

    Housed them for nearly two months here last winter. No ill effects. Gave them hay and around 200g of a beet pulp and rolled oats mix. Bit of a pain to be feeding them but it saved space and grass for ewes/lambs outside

    Trading as Sullivan’s Farm on YouTube



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Lano Lynn


    MIKEKC wrote: »
    Dipped all sheep a month ago.dip still in covered tank. Bought a few lambs today would it be safe to dip these in stale dip

    not advisable


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,178 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Lano Lynn wrote: »
    not advisable

    It's even advised not to use it the next day


  • Registered Users Posts: 683 ✭✭✭eire23


    DJ98 wrote: »
    Anyone here house dry ewe lambs over the winter, usually feed them meal and beet outdoors but was considering housing this year for 2 or 3 month
      s and feeding indoors to save ground and also make it more suitable for late evening and early morning feeding

      Do house all the ewe lambs here In late December early Jan. give them half pound of nuts once a day and good silage. No bother with them and it saves ground for the ewes at lambing


    1. Registered Users Posts: 588 ✭✭✭jd06


      eire23 wrote: »
      Do house all the ewe lambs here In late December early Jan. give them half pound of nuts once a day and good silage. No bother with them and it saves ground for the ewes at lambing

      I leave mine out all winter now they wouldn't have much grass I leave them out a bale of hay and half a pound of nuts.
      Would they thrive as well in doors? Or would the rather be out and about eventhough there's not much for them. Plus the hassle of bedding and so on?


    2. Registered Users Posts: 683 ✭✭✭eire23


      jd06 wrote: »
      I leave mine out all winter now they wouldn't have much grass I leave them out a bale of hay and half a pound of nuts.
      Would they thrive as well in doors? Or would the rather be out and about eventhough there's not much for them. Plus the hassle of bedding and so on?

      Don't see any bother on thrive, they be on around 70dmd silage and the nuts. Get fresh silage twice a day with what ever isn't eat taken away. No bedding to be done as all the sheep here are on slats.


    3. Registered Users Posts: 4,329 ✭✭✭arctictree


      Just got a text about an incoming payment for the sheep welfare scheme. I wish they would change the reference year on this. I had 26 ewes for that year, have over 100 now....


    4. Registered Users Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭Sami23


      arctictree wrote: »
      Just got a text about an incoming payment for the sheep welfare scheme. I wish they would change the reference year on this. I had 26 ewes for that year, have over 100 now....

      Is this the last year of that scheme ?


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    6. Registered Users Posts: 553 ✭✭✭Young95


      arctictree wrote: »
      Just got a text about an incoming payment for the sheep welfare scheme. I wish they would change the reference year on this. I had 26 ewes for that year, have over 100 now....

      Did you get a text stating a correspondence has issued for you ? By any chance ? I got one der today


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