the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Mr. Cats

I fitted some new tubes and tyres to wheels on a new build yesterday. The tubes are Schwalbe Aerothans - have been sucked in by the marketing of them being lighter, more puncture proof etc. So basically they’re expensive and would like to keep them. On fitting, only about 10mm of the valve (40mm) is through the rim (also 40mm). I got them inflated after a bit of fiddling but am wondering if I should get some valve extenders. Anyone have any experience of them? Are they fit and forget or prone to issues? Anything to watch out for?

8valve

Mr. Cats wrote: »

I fitted some new tubes and tyres to wheels on a new build yesterday. The tubes are Schwalbe Aerothans - have been sucked in by the marketing of them being lighter, more puncture proof etc. So basically they’re expensive and would like to keep them. On fitting, only about 10mm of the valve (40mm) is through the rim (also 40mm). I got them inflated after a bit of fiddling but am wondering if I should get some valve extenders. Anyone have any experience of them? Are they fit and forget or prone to issues? Anything to watch out for?

They're basically fit and forget; have fitted them to customers bikes with deep section rims. Some come with a soft coating of sealing compound on the thread, to ensure airtight fitment; on others, I've added a thin skin of plumber's (PTFE) white tape, wound on in the direction of the valve thread, so that it seals as the extender is being threaded on.



You do need tubes with removable valve cores to fit them, however...


Hope that helps.
P.

Mr. Cats

8valve wrote: »

They're basically fit and forget; have fitted them to customers bikes with deep section rims. Some come with a soft coating of sealing compound on the thread, to ensure airtight fitment; on others, I've added a thin skin of plumber's (PTFE) white tape, wound on in the direction of the valve thread, so that it seals as the extender is being threaded on.



You do need tubes with removable valve cores to fit them, however...


Hope that helps.
P.

That helps a lot - will get some and fit them as I don’t think current set up is going to be reliable after a few pumps. Thanks

adrian522

Wheel Truing - Is this something I should take to someone or can attempt it myself?

There is a spoke wrench on a multitool I have but no idea how to go about it.

There is a fair bit of wobble in the rear wheel, not as bad on the front but still needs to be done.

Is there a point at which you are better off replacing the wheels.

FYI the wheels are the stock that came with the bike so upgrading them could be an option too.

8valve

adrian522 wrote: »

Wheel Truing - Is this something I should take to someone or can attempt it myself?

There is a spoke wrench on a multitool I have but no idea how to go about it.

There is a fair bit of wobble in the rear wheel, not as bad on the front but still needs to be done.

Is there a point at which you are better off replacing the wheels.

FYI the wheels are the stock that came with the bike so upgrading them could be an option too.

Wheel truing is a black art, and as one of its practitioners, I am sworn to secrecy on how it is done.


I could tell you....but then you'd be looking over your shoulder until your untimely demise.....!:cool:






Seriously, though..it's not rocket surgery, as a fella once said to me.


The basic principle is this:


Spokes hold equal tension on the rim, keeping it in 'true' (straightness), both laterally (side to side - lateral untrueness is basically a buckle) and longtitudinaly (up and down - longtitudinal untrueness is a hop or ovality in the rim).


If spoke A, laced to one side of the hub, is not pulling with the same tension as spoke B, its opposite, laced to the other side of the hub, then the rim will be pulled towards spoke Bs side of the hub. Make sense?


So, in theory, to pull a rim back into true, you slacken the nipple (Ooooh Matron!) of spoke B, then tighten the nipple of spoke A, thus pulling the rim back into true.


It's an acquired skill, and takes lots of practice but it's a very satisfying feeling to take a 700c pretzel and have it spinning straighter than a politician's face when he/she is making pre-election promises.


Try to find an old wheel to practice on. Don't do it on your new two grand ZIPPs or it'll end in tears/tantrums/unpostable language/divorce/ruined friendships/shattered dreams and a fu(ked wheel.

Seth Brundle

8valve wrote: »

Wheel truing is a black art, and as one of its practitioners, I am sworn to secrecy on how it is done.


I could tell you....but then you'd be looking over your shoulder until your untimely demise.....!:cool:






Seriously, though..it's not rocket surgery, as a fella once said to me.


The basic principle is this:


Spokes hold equal tension on the rim, keeping it in 'true' (straightness), both laterally (side to side - lateral untrueness is basically a buckle) and longtitudinaly (up and down - longtitudinal untrueness is a hop or ovality in the rim).


If spoke A, laced to one side of the hub, is not pulling with the same tension as spoke B, its opposite, laced to the other side of the hub, then the rim will be pulled towards spoke Bs side of the hub. Make sense?


So, in theory, to pull a rim back into true, you slacken the nipple (Ooooh Matron!) of spoke B, then tighten the nipple of spoke A, thus pulling the rim back into true.


It's an acquired skill, and takes lots of practice but it's a very satisfying feeling to take a 700c pretzel and have it spinning straighter than a politician's face when he/she is making pre-election promises.


Try to find an old wheel to practice on. Don't do it on your new two grand ZIPPs or it'll end in tears/tantrums/unpostable language/divorce/ruined friendships/shattered dreams and a fu(ked wheel.

You should take up writing
(I'm actually reminded of the seanchai Eddie Lenihan)

adrian522

Thanks, I don't have an old wheel to practice on so I may take it to the shop, it sounds like it could be a fairly frustrating experience and I've a fair bit to do on the bike before even getting to this so it may be one for the good folks in wolfe cycles.

8valve

Seth Brundle wrote: »

You should take up writing
(I'm actually reminded of the seanchai Eddie Lenihan)

You're not the first person to tell me that. Maybe, someday, when I've had enough of bicycles.


That story reminds me of a recent occurrence.

A new, high tech factory was being built, here on the outskirts of Waterford.

Part of the site clearance, for this multi-million euro project, included the bulldozing/excavation of a purported fairy ring.
The Irish company, who had the construction contract, were stalled for days, as none of their machinery operators would destroy the structure.
In the end, foreign machine operators were brought in to carry out the work, so the groundwork could continue.


The consequences of this action remain to be seen.
Superstition, mixed with a generations-old fear of the unknown are indeed a powerful motivator.


Now...back to the bikes, before we incur the wrath of the mods for going slightly off topic!!!

magicbastarder

that's quite famously claimed to be the reason for the demise of delorean - none of the irish contractors would bulldoze a fairy tree in the middle of the site, so an american hopped in a JCB and ripped it out. and the factory's fate was sealed.

Kamu

Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?

P2C

I have often ran 10 speed on 11 speed and vice versa if stuck or not bothered changing cassette. I have 2 x ten speed and 1 x 11 speed bike. You will miss a gear and get the odd jump. I would try and see if it’s satisfactory. Your looking for a shimano/ sram cassettes tool nut and a chain whip. Most good LBS will sell or ring in advance to save a trip

quote="Kamu;116261520"]Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?[/quote]

MojoMaker

Halfords usually stock a chain whip and a lockring nut you can manipulate with a hex spanner.

CramCycle

Can I stick a R7000 or similar chainring on a GRX chainset. Just for the commute to give me more gears. I know it will look awful. Or am I better off just swapping out the crankset for commuting. Secondly, will the clutch do an alright job of holding the chain on a non narrow wide chainring?

07Lapierre

Kamu wrote: »

Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?

Easy enough to remove your cassette, but a bit of a pain if you have to do it every time you want to use the turbo.

Buy a 10speed cassette and fit it to the turbo? Or buy a new bike with an 11speed cassette!

Kamu

07Lapierre wrote: »

Easy enough to remove your cassette, but a bit of a pain if you have to do it every time you want to use the turbo.

Buy a 10speed cassette and fit it to the turbo? Or buy a new bike with an 11speed cassette!

Thanks everyone, I have decided to keep the eleven speed on the trainer and use my 10 speed for now and get a new 11 speed bike through the bike to work scheme, so I'll be all set!

wheelo01

Caught up in the N+1 gang? It seems to be contagious

wersal gummage

Anyone have any knowledge, experience or strong opinions on integrated handlebar /stem??

I would be inclined to think they would be a nuisance, and it's nice to be able to swap a stem length etc.....

But they do look good.... So I guess my question is around compatibility. Can you stick an integrated bar on any bike that supports internal routing? Do you need a special headset? Or is this only a runner if the bike comes with this set up already??

Thanks very much

07Lapierre

If you buy an integrated Bar/stem, it usually comes with a compatible Headset cap.

They are a bit of a faff to fit, but once fitted, they do look good. Yes your correct..make sure your 100% sure of your stem length. if you get it wrong, you'll have to buy a new Bar stem and possible new cables.

Ronald Franz

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

wheelo01

wheelo01 wrote: »

Thanks for that manual, the 7020 doesn't have the free stroke adjustment just the reach as type17 says., I've just found a different more complete video on YouTube that explains bleeding, etc. I'll follow his steps and see how I get on.

https://youtu.be/NhTGk6b-E-k

When I had the block spacer in, I could get a really good feel, but as soon as I put the pads /wheel/rotor together again, I lost it again and he hits on it in this video. He seems to use a lot more oil than I expected (but I bought a litre, so I can mess around for quote a bit )

I'll keep playing around, thanks again.

I came up with a solution, it wasnt pretty, definitely not the correct way of doing this (and I still dont know what is , but it worked.

I did all the above again, but when I put in the new pads it was still very soft. In my odd way of thinking, I just needed an extra bit of oil tin the system o create the extra resistance.
I closed up the nut at the calipers, and the lever end, then filled the syringe, attached it to the bleed point, opened it, and added a small amount of oil, and tightened the nut.

The brakes were jin the "on" position, thought I was onto something. I then bled a tiny bit of oil out again, and the pistons were closer to engaged, but the wheel can spin freely.

As I say, it's not the right way to do it, but this seems to have worked, my cycle tomorrow will tell, I suppose.
Both brake levers stop with 2/3cm gap from handlebars.

Type 17

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

Most U-locks' locking mechanisms start to bind up if not kept dry - try lubing it, but it might be a bit late if it has been acting up for a while.

If you have access to the them, first spray in degreaser or brake cleaner, work the key a bit (with the U-section removed), then blow though the keyhole with compressed air (to remove the degreaser/grit mixture from between the discs or pins) and then use a lubricant for locks which contains graphite.

The mechanism that throws the bolts into the U-section may also be rusty/jammed, so clean/lube that from the holes that the U fits into.

Sometimes, things are too far gone (worn from grit or jammed from rust), so if things aren't much better, get a new lock before it jams up fully and leaves you and your bike stranded.

CramCycle

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

My kryptonite done this, if you blast it with GT80 or WD40 before it seizes and remember to do it regularly, you will be fine. If however, as Type17 says, leave it too long, it will be f*cked. Left a series 2 attached to a railing and it got covered in snow a few years ago, no matter what I done, it can't be freed. It is still there, teasing me.

Thargor

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

Yes I was just about to give up on my Kryptonite Evolution the other day, its the one that rides along on my commuter attached to the seat tube right beside the rear brakes so was getting blasted with mud and salt all winter. It was getting stuck in its holder to the point I had to kick it off the bike a couple of times and the key wasnt turning.

Gave it a good rinse out with GT85 spray, literally sprayed until it ran clear instead of brown, then dropped a few drops of wet lube down the keyhole, turned the key and did it all again, it sprang back to life and is good as new. Gave the holder on the bike the same treatment, same result.

Just don't use anything that will cause gunk to build up and eventually make it so it's hard to turn the barrel like oil. I use the dry version of the WD40 spray lube for things like that. It's around €5 in halfords.

wersal gummage

07Lapierre wrote: »

If you buy an integrated Bar/stem, it usually comes with a compatible Headset cap.

They are a bit of a faff to fit, but once fitted, they do look good. Yes your correct..make sure your 100% sure of your stem length. if you get it wrong, you'll have to buy a new Bar stem and possible new cables.

Just to be clear, integrated bars /stem where cables pop out bottom of stem or whatever, and then back into the normal part of the frame for internal routine , I get that.

Presumably I can't bodge a job whereby I could get the cables to go from the stem into the head tube and not be visible at all?

Roadtoad

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

CramCycle

Roadtoad wrote: »

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

Can you take a pic of what you want removed as i have something in my head that i don't think is what you want.

Roadtoad

Cramcycle, I'll get back to the bike later tonight. This is the proprietary tool, but Halfords are trying to stitch me for €20 for something like it.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-peg-spanner-tlfc21/rp-prod27808

cletus

Roadtoad wrote: »

Cramcycle, I'll get back to the bike later tonight. This is the proprietary tool, but Halfords are trying to stitch me for €20 for something like it.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-peg-spanner-tlfc21/rp-prod27808

What did you use for the ones that came out?

Roadtoad

Cletus: Friction held it while I turned the Torx side. There's always one, isn't there?
I tried making some 'soft' tools using brass, coins but to no avail.