the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

fryup wrote: »

what's this grub screw for on the brake calipers??

this is not going to help, but what's all the dirt on the bike? it's very pale; is that sawdust?

Type 17

magicbastarder wrote: »

this is not going to help, but what's all the dirt on the bike? it's very pale; is that sawdust?

Pale grit/sand from cycling in heavy rain, it looks like the stuff you wash out of the wheel-arches of a car.

It's likely that the centring screw (and the calliper in general) is seized

fryup

magicbastarder wrote: »

this is not going to help, but what's all the dirt on the bike? it's very pale; is that sawdust?

sawdust? what do you take me for a lumberjack?

no, its just dry muck

magicbastarder

fryup wrote: »

sawdust? what do you take me for a lumberjack?

yeah, but you're OK.

54and56

07Lapierre wrote: »

I don’t think disc brakes make much difference to a cleaning routine. The main difference is you have to be very careful and ensure you don’t contaminate disc brake rotors.

I use hot soapy water for cleaning my bikes. I use biodegradable degreaser (from Halfords) and I use Muck off dry and wet lube.

I do similar weekly mileage and I clean my commuter bike once a week.

No good deed goes unpunished

Now that I'm doing regular weekly cleaning of course I've somehow managed to contaminate my front disc brake which is making a horrible loud screeching sound just as the bike comes to a halt. There's no screeching initially, just at the very end when the brake "bites" if that makes sense.

Should I just leave it for a few spins and see if it sorts itself out or should I clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol to sort it out and if that doesn't work clean the pads as well?

cletus

54and56 wrote: »

No good deed goes unpunished

Now that I'm doing regular weekly cleaning of course I've somehow managed to contaminate my front disc brake which is making a horrible loud screeching sound just as the bike comes to a halt. There's no screeching initially, just at the very end when the brake "bites" if that makes sense.

Should I just leave it for a few spins and see if it sorts itself out or should I clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol to sort it out and if that doesn't work clean the pads as well?

The discs can be cleaned as you describe.

If the pads are contaminated, they can be sanded lightly

magicbastarder

i usually clean pads by dropping them into boiling water for a bit, running a heat gun on them, and/or a light scuffing with fine sandpaper.

EDit

job of changing rear derailleur has morphed into a need to change rear gear cable (when the old derailleur was removed, the cable was found to be seriously frayed and trying to tidy it up has only made things worse)

Anyway, question is whether replacing rear gear cable is really as straightforward as the various YT videos make it out to be? The bike is a giant TCR (2019) and has internal cabling (if that makes a difference)

cletus

Internal cables make it a bit more tricky, but in general terms, yes changing cables is easy.

If you're only changing the cable, and not the outer, leave that in place, it'll be easier to thread through.

Get yourself a good pair or cable cutters, it'll help prevent fraying of the cut end

wersal gummage

Building up a bike on di2, my first experience with di2.

Groupset has the older junction box which is normally attached under the stem.

I know I can buy a rs910 unit which goes in the bar end, and that seems like the handiest option to slightly hide some cables....

I'm also considering buying the d fly / Bluetooth /ant module thing...

So I've a few questions if anyone has experience or views on this...

I've bought handlebars with internal routing, and a small hole where the bars meet the stem (but the stem I've bought has no exit for wires so I will need to run a cable from the bar to the frame in the normal way).. Anyway, I'm wondering if I can stick the old style junction box IN the stem? I gather this could be a nuisance as it's used for charging and other things? But charging, for me, should be once or twice between now and putting the bike away for winter.... So I think I can live with that.... I think I need access to this box to index the gears initially, but I can leave it hanging out and then hide it away once that's done. Anything I'm missing??

On the Bluetooth / ant module, this allows connection to garmin and phone, seems a bit of a gimmick?? It's nice to see what gear I'm in etc, but I can survive without this.. Is it a must have?

I'm thinking if I had the junction box in the stem, the Bluetooth module would let me see the battery percentage and would make life easier by not having to take the stem plate off to press the little button to check battery flashing lights?

I know the answer is probably buy both but I'm getting slightly fed up at the extent of the outlay already with covid pricing / availability and trying to limit further spending now unless really necessary.

Grateful for any help, if anything I've said makes any sense at all.

07Lapierre

cletus wrote: »

Internal cables make it a bit more tricky, but in general terms, yes changing cables is easy.

If you're only changing the cable, and not the outer, leave that in place, it'll be easier to thread through.

Get yourself a good pair or cable cutters, it'll help prevent fraying of the cut end

If the cable was worn so badly that the end was frayed (at the shifter end), I’d recommend replacing the cable and the housing. Internal cables are tricky, so all the more reason to replace everything so you don’t have to do it again for a long time.

TerryDi2Center

wersal gummage wrote: »

Building up a bike on di2, my first experience with di2.

I've bought handlebars with internal routing, and a small hole where the bars meet the stem (but the stem I've bought has no exit for wires so I will need to run a cable from the bar to the frame in the normal way).. Anyway, I'm wondering if I can stick the old style junction box IN the stem? I gather this could be a nuisance as it's used for charging and other things? But charging, for me, should be once or twice between now and putting the bike away for winter.... So I think I can live with that.... I think I need access to this box to index the gears initially, but I can leave it hanging out and then hide it away once that's done. Anything I'm missing??

I really would like to have the junction A accessible at all times.

Depending on your shifting habits you may have to charge the bike every 2000-4000km.
The button on the junction lets you switch between shift modes (full/semi synchro, manual mode) and micro-adjust (index) the rear derailleur as you ride.
Also, the LEDs on the junction will tell you the battery charge level and the button can also be used to reset the RD if it has gone into crash mode.

wersal gummage wrote: »

On the Bluetooth / ant module, this allows connection to garmin and phone, seems a bit of a gimmick?? It's nice to see what gear I'm in etc, but I can survive without this.. Is it a must have?

I'm thinking if I had the junction box in the stem, the Bluetooth module would let me see the battery percentage and would make life easier by not having to take the stem plate off to press the little button to check battery flashing lights?

True, I guess that's an option too
The Wireless module lets you change settings and update firmware.. and see the current gear / battery level on your garmin.
Personally I prefer to update firmware using the junction and a Windows PC.. it just feels a bit safer ;-)

Mundo7976

Lads, wheres the best place to buy brake bleed kits that aren't mad expensive, but are capable of performing a job on 2 bikes more than once?

gaffmaster

wersal gummage wrote: »

On the Bluetooth / ant module, this allows connection to garmin and phone, seems a bit of a gimmick?? It's nice to see what gear I'm in etc, but I can survive without this.. Is it a must have?

This can also be used to operate your bike computer with your hidden buttons (on top of the hoods) - scroll through screens etc. I have mine set up like this and it's handy to access the map without your hands leaving the hoods.

In terms of location for the Bluetooth module, my mechanic pluggedd mine into the seat-post battery - which makes it accesssible when you pull the seatpost out. If you really didn't want to buy the bar-end Junction-A, you could look into rigging it to the battery with a short cable and using longer cables to your shifters (I've never done this and not sure if it would work/fit in the seat tube). Also get some foam to wrap and giblets like this to prevent rattles.

wersal gummage

Thanks yes was thinking Bluetooth module in seat tube alright...

I know better to buy both things but janey it's looking like over 200 euro plus cables and I've already spent nearly twice the nornal (eg discount available) on a groupset so it's starting to get ridiculous

Edit, plus the cables....

MojoMaker

Question about cross-compatibility of Shimano mechanical road groupsets. I'm wondering if R7000 STIs are fine to mate to R8000 RD and possibly either 6800/7000/8000 FD?

I assume no issue but don't want to waste money if there's going to be a glitch in my thinking.

8valve

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Lads, wheres the best place to buy brake bleed kits that aren't mad expensive, but are capable of performing a job on 2 bikes more than once?

Alligator and BBB do generic universal kits that are fine for home use; widely available online. Both come with a variety of fittings to fit most popular brands.



Any good pharmacy will sell you syringes without needles for pennies...and give you funny looks when you ask for them.



Shimano and Tektro also do their own brand specific kits.

Weepsie

MojoMaker wrote: »

Question about cross-compatibility of Shimano mechanical road groupsets. I'm wondering if R7000 STIs are fine to mate to R8000 RD and possibly either 6800/7000/8000 FD?

I assume no issue but don't want to waste money if there's going to be a glitch in my thinking.

Only one I know of that's weird is Tiagra 4700 won't work with any other 10 speed stuff, but it curiously work with the 11 speed stuff as in the derailleurs will work with 11 speed shifters apparently.

Mundo7976

8valve wrote: »

Alligator and BBB do generic universal kits that are fine for home use; widely available online. Both come with a variety of fittings to fit most popular brands.



Any good pharmacy will sell you syringes without needles for pennies...and give you funny looks when you ask for them.



Shimano and Tektro also do their own brand specific kits.

Thanks. Will orddr a BBB one later. All i could see was the cheapo looking yellow ones when looking. Wouldn't have much confidence in them

tomasrojo

This is more of a pre-emptive question; I don't currently have a problem, but it might eventually be a problem.

Due to corrosion, I've had to peel a bit of insulation off the wire going into the Shimano spade that connects the head lamp to the front wheel hub dynamo, to expose fresh, uncorroded wire. This means that connecting wire is getting a bit shorter. I presume it's practical to just splice some new wire in place if it gets too short, and wrap insulating tape around the join?

cletus

Splicing very short pieces of wire can be tricky, otherwise don't see an issue with it.

I wouldn't use insulating tape, it just turns into a sticky mess. Get some heat shrink tubes instead

Type 17

MojoMaker wrote: »

Question about cross-compatibility of Shimano mechanical road groupsets. I'm wondering if R7000 STIs are fine to mate to R8000 RD and possibly either 6800/7000/8000 FD?

I assume no issue but don't want to waste money if there's going to be a glitch in my thinking.

Shimano's own chart: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-454&cid=C-453

CianRyan

cletus wrote: »

Splicing very short pieces of wire can be tricky, otherwise don't see an issue with it.

I wouldn't use insulating tape, it just turns into a sticky mess. Get some heat shrink tubes instead

I'll add to this, if you're not handy with a soldering iron, you can buy heat wrap with solder rings in them. Not as good as a proper job but a loop and twist with one of those bad boys is way more fool proof!

triggermortis

tomasrojo wrote: »

This is more of a pre-emptive question; I don't currently have a problem, but it might eventually be a problem.

Due to corrosion, I've had to peel a bit of insulation off the wire going into the Shimano spade that connects the head lamp to the front wheel hub dynamo, to expose fresh, uncorroded wire. This means that connecting wire is getting a bit shorter. I presume it's practical to just splice some new wire in place if it gets too short, and wrap insulating tape around the join?

These are what you need....

https://ie.farnell.com/raychem-te-connectivity/cwt-3802/solder-sleeve-po-clear/dp/2765539?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9YWDBhDyARIsADt6sGb2SgZsqYap6pGutH08YOkFHQ8YuLZmEqn_r468AS4L0KUxFIu4nnIaAoGqEALw_wcB&mckv=sQwoQDMGy_dc|pcrid|473404530606|kword||match||plid||slid||product|2765539|pgrid|118346197384|ptaid|pla-296811702606|&gross_price=true

just strip the wires, put inside this and heat up until the solder melts. Heat the ends to fully seal the splice

tomasrojo

Great, thanks everyone. As I say, not needed yet but will be needed eventually.

cletus

If you have and can use a soldering iron, I'd use that before one of those solder ring things. At least if you solder the joint yourself, you know it's done well.

As an aside, if you have enough cable, look up lineman splice, a good strong joint that offers mechanical strength, and is also streamlined, so the heat shrink fits over it nicely

MojoMaker

Type 17 wrote: »

Shimano's own chart: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-454&cid=C-453

Much appreciated and handy link to boot.

Just so I'm reading it correctly, looks like the rear compatibility is virtually homogenous across the 11spd offerings, but the front compatibility is a little more sensitive. Looking at the chart the R7000 left hand shifter will work with the older 6800 and 5800 FD, but the R8000 left shifter will only work with the newer 7000, 8000, and 9100 front derailleurs? (and oddly the 5801 FD).

Either way, question answered and I know what to cross match now, but that's annoying me.

kirving

cletus wrote: »

If you have and can use a soldering iron, I'd use that before one of those solder ring things.

I would too to be honest, but I can solder pretty well as I don't often enough in work. In a pinch though, those solder sleeves are absolutely fantastic.

Large bottle small glass

tomasrojo wrote: »

Great, thanks everyone. As I say, not needed yet but will be needed eventually.

I recently used gel connectors for connecting dynamo cables. Recently simple, 2 second job gentle squeeze with a pliers

Friend works in IT he uses them all the time

Type 17

MojoMaker wrote: »

...the front compatibility is a little more sensitive. Looking at the chart the R7000 left hand shifter will work with the older 6800 and 5800 FD, but the R8000 left shifter will only work with the newer 7000, 8000, and 9100 front derailleurs? (and oddly the 5801 FD).

Actually, I think that any shifter in the left box will work with any FD in either of the two centre boxes, but the FDs are split into two boxes because they want to confirm the limitation that the lower box (older FDs) will not work with the upper FC box (newer chainsets), but that the newer FDs (upper box) will work with both older and newer FCs.