the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

DaveyDave

07Lapierre wrote: »

I suspect you just need to index the rear derailleur. Can you post a video of this?

Doesn't seem to be an indexing issue, not from what I can tell anyway. Cassette from the bike was on the turbo previously without issue and cycling outside shifting was grand.

It looks like one tooth on each cog is taller than the others? It's 105 25t 11 speed. When pedaling it just feels grindy for part of the rotation. When I'm home today I'll swap them around and see what they're like.

I'll try get a video but it's hard to get a still clip to see movement, and when I stare too long it just looks like I'm seeing things...

G1032

Having a lot of trouble with my FD.

A short while ago I did a full bike service and replaced FD inner cable and the housing. R7000 FD. Could not for the life of me get clearance throughout the whole cassette range. Got a hold of a 5800 FD and installed that with no issues and had full clearance (maybe the smallest bit of rub in 52/11).

Earlier this week I put a different wheel on the bike and noticed chain rub when in the 52 ring and bottom 4 cogs on cassette. Presumably the cable tension had slackened and wasn't getting a full shift up. So went about a readjustment and bike had been out of action since. I just cannot get the derailleur set up.

It's a strange one because twice today during two failed set-ups I managed to get it to shift fully to the outside and give lots of clearance in the 52/11, to the point that I could even get it to throw the chain off the big ring. But when I adjusted the high limit screw to allow 52/25 clearance I got chain rub in the bottom 4 cogs again.
So tried again and got loads of clearance in the 52/11 but in the first shift only. Dropped to low ring and shifted up again but it didn't shift as far as it did with the first shift..

So I've replaced inner cable again and installed an in-line barrel adjuster (Shimano one which seems to have absolutely no affect whatsoever). Housing piece between the barrel adjuster and the frame also replaced but i don't even know why I did this because the 'old' one was very new. I was just trying something , anything 🙈.

So any ideas how i can get this dialled in? I've tried setting the cage a little outward of the chainring before attaching the cable. I've played around with cable tension. When it's too tight I can't get the trim function to work. I just don't know what's wrong

It's a braze on and the small support bolt is also correctly set

Type 17

Have a look at the Shimano doc for road FDs, especially the section about installation of the FD on the frame, to ensure that it is low/close enough to the chainrings and is at the right angle (rear of cage not in or out too far) - this is fairly critical on 11-speed setups, especially if you're getting chain-rub in the outer or inner gears.

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RAFD001/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

G1032

Type 17 wrote: »

Have a look at the Shimano doc for road FDs, especially the section about installation of the FD on the frame, to ensure that it is low/close enough to the chainrings and is at the right angle (rear of cage not in or out too far) - this is fairly critical on 11-speed setups, especially if you're getting chain-rub in the outer or inner gears.

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RAFD001/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

Cheers. Ya all that correct. I set it up the first time a few weeks ago with the aid of the manual

DaveyDave

Nil Satis Nisi Optimum! wrote: »

A bit embarrassing but do any of the gentleman cyclists here find their willy shrivels a bit after a long cycle?

I have a hybrid and after a 30 k cycle it can be like a cocktail sausage and two marbles. Is my positioning bad in the saddle?

It has been getting cold lately...

Quazzie

Maybe this isn't the place for this question.

I have a Giant Contend SL bik currently running 25mm tyres and I love it for road use. Over the summer though o was hopin g to take in some bikepacking. My question is if I change the tyres to 32mm tyres to make it more suitable is that possible with this frame? Or am I better off changing bike to do the bike packing.

magicbastarder

disc or rim brake?
the disc version can take 32mm tyres, rim brake version can take 28mm (2020 models):
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/giant-contend-range/

note: that's probably without mudguards. if you're bikepacking, you may want mudguards.

Weepsie

Anyone able to help with a 4700 front derailleur at all.

I can't get it right whatsoever. Or when I get it right any minor change throws it.

All from the beginning tension. Have it all set, cabled up and the first shift is just basically empty, like I'm pressing on nothing, then it shifts to big ring. Something wrong with this trim shift.

Then i redo it and I can get it to shift up but not return.


It's that nothing trim shift (probably wrong term) that's doing my head in though.

I've watched 2 excellent videos that go through every single step that even park tool and others ignore, and still in getting it wrong.

Type 17

It's a tricky model to get right.

Is the pin/cable guide the right way around for your bike? (more details on page 11/12 here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/FD0002/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf)

Also note (on page 13) that the L-trim is below the standard Lower chain ring position, which is the reverse of earlier designs.

nicksnikita

Weepsie wrote: »

Anyone able to help with a 4700 front derailleur at all.

I can't get it right whatsoever. Or when I get it right any minor change throws it.

All from the beginning tension. Have it all set, cabled up and the first shift is just basically empty, like I'm pressing on nothing, then it shifts to big ring. Something wrong with this trim shift.

Then i redo it and I can get it to shift up but not return.


It's that nothing trim shift (probably wrong term) that's doing my head in though.

I've watched 2 excellent videos that go through every single step that even park tool and others ignore, and still in getting it wrong.

Shifter in easiest gear before setting up?

Shifter mechanism moving freely with every shift? I saw recently with my left shifter, the mechanism had become stiff and wasn’t rotating with each shift. I had to blast GT85 into where the head of the cable rests inside the shifter, work it in by shifting say 10 times and that did the trick

Weepsie

Yup into easiest gear alright.

Ended up following a video that broke it down 100%. I've blasted wd40 and 3 in one. Same issue. It's probably down to the LBS tail between my legs. I've spent far too long on this one issue and it's a headwrecking at this stage.


Pin/Cable guide is in the same position as the derailleur it's replaced, so don't think it's that.


Chance it could be the shifters as they've been stowed away for ages, but they were fully functional

07Lapierre

Weepsie wrote: »

Yup into easiest gear alright.

Ended up following a video that broke it down 100%. I've blasted wd40 and 3 in one. Same issue. It's probably down to the LBS tail between my legs. I've spent far too long on this one issue and it's a headwrecking at this stage.


Pin/Cable guide is in the same position as the derailleur it's replaced, so don't think it's that.


Chance it could be the shifters as they've been stowed away for ages, but they were fully functional

Have you replaced the cable? If you disconnected the cable, can you move the derailleur by hand? Does it shift ok? If it does, then the issue is with the cable or shifter. My mo eh would be on a frayed cable.

triggermortis

Weepsie wrote: »

Yup into easiest gear alright.

Ended up following a video that broke it down 100%. I've blasted wd40 and 3 in one. Same issue. It's probably down to the LBS tail between my legs. I've spent far too long on this one issue and it's a headwrecking at this stage.


Pin/Cable guide is in the same position as the derailleur it's replaced, so don't think it's that.


Chance it could be the shifters as they've been stowed away for ages, but they were fully functional

It might be worth removing the cable and then spraying the shifter again. I've had rusted bits of frayed cable jamming the shifter before and it wouldn't let me set the FD up properly. That said, last time I tried mine I couldn't get either limit screw to do anything, so I put on a new FD (from your good self!)
I hate front mechs.

Weepsie

Tis a brand new cable. Couldn't find the new housing so foolishly reused the old housing. Will have another dig through the spares box.

I can move it by hand, I can move it with limit screws, I can actually get it to shift up and down, however it's as those it's just not engaging anything when I first try to upshift.

Thought I didn't have enough tension, then too much. I gave up and gardened. I'll revisit Again tomorrow

8valve

They are an absolute barsteward to set.

Pull the cable as tight as you can, through the derailleur anchor point, then tighten the cable anchor bolt.

Next, manually pull the mech out towards the big ring and wind up any cable slack with the cable inline tensioner, assuming you have one fitted...this, in theory should take up any remaining slack.

Say a small novena, or throw a lungful of fu(ks at it. And at whoever in the shimano design team is responsible for their front mechs...he/she obviously hates cyclists and bike mechanics.

Hope that helps.

Weepsie

Also learned to not cable a bike with a cat in the room. They thing new cable is something for them to chase and chew

8valve

Weepsie wrote: »

Also learned to not cable a bike with a cat in the room. They thing new cable is something for them to chase and chew

valuable lesson learned.


cats and bike cables don't mix.


they also like to sit in your tool bag and claw you, if you attempt to remove any tools.

G1032

G1032 wrote: »

Having a lot of trouble with my FD.

A short while ago I did a full bike service and replaced FD inner cable and the housing. R7000 FD. Could not for the life of me get clearance throughout the whole cassette range. Got a hold of a 5800 FD and installed that with no issues and had full clearance (maybe the smallest bit of rub in 52/11).

Earlier this week I put a different wheel on the bike and noticed chain rub when in the 52 ring and bottom 4 cogs on cassette. Presumably the cable tension had slackened and wasn't getting a full shift up. So went about a readjustment and bike had been out of action since. I just cannot get the derailleur set up.

It's a strange one because twice today during two failed set-ups I managed to get it to shift fully to the outside and give lots of clearance in the 52/11, to the point that I could even get it to throw the chain off the big ring. But when I adjusted the high limit screw to allow 52/25 clearance I got chain rub in the bottom 4 cogs again.
So tried again and got loads of clearance in the 52/11 but in the first shift only. Dropped to low ring and shifted up again but it didn't shift as far as it did with the first shift..

So I've replaced inner cable again and installed an in-line barrel adjuster (Shimano one which seems to have absolutely no affect whatsoever). Housing piece between the barrel adjuster and the frame also replaced but i don't even know why I did this because the 'old' one was very new. I was just trying something , anything ��.

So any ideas how i can get this dialled in? I've tried setting the cage a little outward of the chainring before attaching the cable. I've played around with cable tension. When it's too tight I can't get the trim function to work. I just don't know what's wrong

It's a braze on and the small support bolt is also correctly set

Any sage advice here folks? Still can't get the derailleur dialled in
It's the FD 5800 I have installed

Quazzie

magicbastarder wrote: »

disc or rim brake?
the disc version can take 32mm tyres, rim brake version can take 28mm (2020 models):
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/giant-contend-range/

note: that's probably without mudguards. if you're bikepacking, you may want mudguards.

Rim brake, so I'll factor that info in. Thanks.

Paul Kiernan

G1032 wrote: »

Any sage advice here folks? Still can't get the derailleur dialled in
It's the FD 5800 I have installed

Is it internal or external cable routing? Reason I ask is can you use the cable to pull the mech tight against the limit screw?

G1032

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Is it internal or external cable routing? Reason I ask is can you use the cable to pull the mech tight against the limit screw?

It's internal routing. It's a CAAD12. Wouldn't mind but I set this up before without any huge issues

CramCycle

8valve wrote: »

They are an absolute barsteward to set.

Pull the cable as tight as you can, through the derailleur anchor point, then tighten the cable anchor bolt.

Next, manually pull the mech out towards the big ring and wind up any cable slack with the cable inline tensioner, assuming you have one fitted...this, in theory should take up any remaining slack.

Say a small novena, or throw a lungful of fu(ks at it. And at whoever in the shimano design team is responsible for their front mechs...he/she obviously hates cyclists and bike mechanics.

Hope that helps.

If its a steel frame I used to use a coin or wedge of something when it was in the lower position to keep the derailleur out from the frame, tighten the cable then, job done.

Paul Kiernan

G1032 wrote: »

It's internal routing. It's a CAAD12. Wouldn't mind but I set this up before without any huge issues

I usually do the following, say for a 50-34 chainset with 11-32 cassette:

With no cable attached put it in 34-32 and adjust inner limit screw so it's just clear of the chain. With shifter set to no pull, attach cable and adjust with in-line cable tensioner so it's tight but not actually moving the mech e.g overtighten it to cause chain rub then move it back enough to rest back against limit screw.

Then put in 50-11 and adjust outer limit screw so that when pulling cable tight by hand chain is just clear of the mech.

That should be job done.

Edit - Rereading the posts I guess you've done all that and it's still not working:o

G1032

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I usually do the following, say for a 50-34 chainset with 11-32 cassette:

With no cable attached put it in 34-32 and adjust inner limit screw so it's just clear of the chain. With shifter set to no pull, attach cable and adjust with in-line cable tensioner so it's tight but not actually moving the mech e.g overtighten it to cause chain rub then move it back enough to rest back against limit screw.

Then put in 50-11 and adjust outer limit screw so that when pulling cable tight by hand chain is just clear of the mech.

That should be job done.

Edit - Rereading the posts I guess you've done all that and it's still not working:o

I'll give it another go tonight. They're a pain to get right

gaffmaster

G1032 wrote: »

It's internal routing. It's a CAAD12. Wouldn't mind but I set this up before without any huge issues

I also have a CAAD12 and an R8000 FD. My first impressions of it (nearly two years ago) were that it shifts beautifully, but suffered from chain rub in the easier gears. When I took it back to the mechanic he explained that the Shadow-play derailleurs don't have a limit screw setup, so it's all about positioning them correctly. Then he asked me to choose which end of the cassette I wanted the rub to be at. I think my combination of an Ultegra chainset and derailleur meant he couldn't get the clearance at both ends. One solution might have been to buy a set of Cannondale's own Si cranks.

What chainset are you using? My setup is R8000 derailleur and 6800 Ultegra chainset (with BB30 spacer kit which is another issue altogether).

Oddly, the chain doesn't make rubbing sounds anymore - perhaps because I've worn down the derailleur plate or something?

Edit - if you're installing an R7000 / R8000 Shadow Play FD, look for specific installation instructions. I haven't watched this but it might be of use to you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T41RctO6Rt0&ab_channel=FreeToCycle

G1032

Thanks. It's got FSA crankset on it. The original stock one.
I do think there's something in this though, that Shimano components work best with other Shimano components.
I have the R7000 FD removed and a 5800 installed.
In think at this stage if I can get full clearance with the low gears with a small bit of rub in 52/11 I'll take it.

Bluejohn1

Hello, looking to build up my first bike and have some questions. I have the frame and fork (traitor exile)

General specs:

Headtube 1"
Seattube 27mm
Dropout 130mm
BB 68mm
Fork 1" Threadless

1. the dropouts are 130mm, so I should be able to fit any modern shimano 10 speed/11 speed groupset yes?
2. The headtube is 1", Ive got a 1" stem and looking to get the bars, just wondering will the diameter of 25.4mm bars be an issue with fitting the brifters and will I need a shim? I could just get a shim for the headtube and find another stem/more modern bar I guess.
3. The BB is 68mm and threaded thats all I know, i'm a bit lost on which BB I should use. Any help be great.

nicksnikita

Bluejohn1 wrote: »

Hello, looking to build up my first bike and have some questions. I have the frame and fork (traitor exile)

General specs:

Headtube 1"
Seattube 27mm
Dropout 130mm
BB 68mm
Fork 1" Threadless

1. the dropouts are 130mm, so I should be able to fit any modern shimano 10 speed/11 speed groupset yes?
2. The headtube is 1", Ive got a 1" stem and looking to get the bars, just wondering will the diameter of 25.4mm bars be an issue with fitting the brifters and will I need a shim? I could just get a shim for the headtube and find another stem/more modern bar I guess.
3. The BB is 68mm and threaded thats all I know, i'm a bit lost on which BB I should use. Any help be great.

1. & 2. - I don't have the experience to answer comprehensively.

3. You could go with the "Tiagra 4700 BB" or the "Ultegra BBR-60 BB". You'll need something like the "LifeLine BB Tool HT II - Spanner Fitting" also to install/remove the BB. These BBs are compatible with every Shimano road crankset.

magicbastarder

1 - it's more the wheel than the groupset you need to consider. but 130mm is fairly standard for bikes with rim brakes - you should be easily able to get a wheel with a 130mm hub, that can take an 11 speed cassette.

3 - i'd guess it's a standard english thread 68mm bb? what make is the frame?
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-and-terminology

Bluejohn1

Thanks for the replies, its a traitor exile frame, the companies website is long gone now it seems, so I cant find much else on it.

I'll have a read over that parktools link.