the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Type 17

Post a pic of the teeth without the chain on them, and take a pic of the teeth where most wear occurs, which 90 degrees from the crank arm, ie: place the cranks horizontally, and take a pic of the teeth at the top of ring.

Even if a new chain doesn't skip on a worn ring (or sprocket), the new/old mesh means that fewer links of the chain are taking the full load, so the new chain will wear down to the rest of the drivetrain's level that bit quicker, so sometimes starting again with a new ring may help your chains last longer.

CramCycle

Rua_ri wrote: »

Has anybody fitted gp5000 tubeless tyres to mavic kysrium wheels?

I can't even get one side of the tyre over the rim.

Only advice I can give is to make sure that when you get the first part of the tyre on, make sure the bead is resting in the valley of the rim as you roll it on the rest of the way, it's a mistake I have seen a lot, some tyres can take it but a lot can't. Into the valley the whole way round is the only way you get enough lee way to pop it over the rim.

Type 17

CramCycle wrote: »

Only advice I can give is to make sure that when you get the first part of the tyre on, make sure the bead is resting in the valley of the rim as you roll it on the rest of the way, it's a mistake I have seen a lot, some tyres can take it but a lot can't. Into the valley the whole way round is the only way you get enough lee way to pop it over the rim.

And note that whenever you get a bit more bead over the rim, and things get tight again, keep going back around the part that's mounted and pushing it back into the valley, as things shift about as you work on it.

magicbastarder

DaveyDave wrote: »

Bike has about 5,000km on it and the new chain is the third one as I try to change at 2,000-2,500km.

very surprised if it's worn and the chain has been maintained like that. one 'rule' is to replace the cassette every three chains, and replace the chainrings every third cassette.

Mundo7976

Broke my first spoke today and managed to limp home.
Has anyone got a recommendation for a wheel mechanic who can replace and true the wheel in the Ashbourne /Ratoath /Swords general area?
Thanks folks

Weepsie

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Broke my first spoke today and managed to limp home.
Has anyone got a recommendation for a wheel mechanic who can replace and true the wheel in the Ashbourne /Ratoath /Swords general area?
Thanks folks

Any half decent shop should be able to do that. Humphreys In finglas is a straight run in the old n2, probably richie's in swords

Mundo7976

Weepsie wrote: »

Any half decent shop should be able to do that. Humphreys In finglas is a straight run in the old n2, probably richie's in swords

Sound. Thanks 👍🏻

wheelo01

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

Paul Kiernan

wheelo01 wrote: »

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

Type 17

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

cletus

As a general rule, when seating or unseating bearings, you want to push on the outer race, rather than the inner

Paul Kiernan

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

cletus

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

Any long, solid round or square bar stock should do it. At a pinch you could use an extension bar in the socket itself, but I'd prefer something a bit wider to spread the impact over a greater surface area.

WOT

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

cletus

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

I presume they stripped because the crank is stuck on the bottom bracket. Heat and a bearing puller would be my next option.

A screw driver and hammer should remove that retaining ring

CramCycle

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

WOT

CramCycle wrote: »

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

The bolt was removed, it’s back there for safe keeping while I figure out the next step. The photo is misleading in that regard.

Yes I stripped the threads, trying to get the crank removed from the taper. Used correct tool etc.

CramCycle

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Possibly, other options involve a rubber hammer and a support for the frame, so you can try and hammer it off from the other side.

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

Hard to tell with just that photo but it looks like a lockring tool for that side (Park Tool HCW17, or there are loads of cheaper options, many chain whips have them built in), there is a specific tool for KSS but I think a lockring tool will do it and have a use in the future . If you can put up a pic of the otherside so I can be sure but they are not like Shimano and have the same on both sides.

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

magicbastarder

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

magicbastarder

magicbastarder wrote: »

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

thanks managed to get it sorted found the allen key that came with the bike and sprayed of the vaults with some WD40 which managed to do the job. The bike feels easier to ride now that the saddle is level.

CramCycle

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

I would assume it is, but you should be able to see the threads there, just in case. Leave the bike on its side, leave a drop of penetrant oil on it over night on the bolt. If it was me I would turn the bike upside down and extend the allen key a bit (looks like a carbon frame, if it as steel I wouldn't bother turning it around), make sure the allen key is seated properly and lean into it, that is all a bike shop will do. Just put some welly in, therefore you are driving the force into the seat post and saddle rather than the frame. Others may disagree.

cletus

What can help, instead of just increasing the pressure on the Allen key, is to seat it correctly, take up any slack, and give it a swift tap (in the proper direction) with a hammer. I have a number of plastic and brass faced hammers for just this job.

Sudden impact, in general, is better for releasing seized bolts etc. Than steady increased pressure, which is likely to round the head

wheelo01

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

I had a 19mm slide on through, but a 21mm wouldn't fit at all, guess what? I didn't have a 20.

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

That's an interesting one, the problem yesterday was A. I had no 2 euro coins, and that is what might have done it. There was barely one mm excess all round.


Luckily I was able to bring it to work and one of the mechanics was able to remove it for me.
I dont know if he had a bearing removal tool, or just brute force, I will see him tomorrow to find out.

magicbastarder

cletus wrote: »

Sudden impact, in general, is better

dirty harry fan, yeah?

Dexif

Just wondering are the Shimano 11-speed chains not designed to be broken open? I've opened, fixed, closed many chains over the years but all my other bikes are of an older vintage to 11-speed.

I opened the chain to clean it by steeping in diesel and afterwards put it back together. When I was breaking the chain it made a loud snap. Also, on the chain breaking tool pin, a tiny round bit of metal is left on the circumference.

I put it back on and all seemed fine until it splayed open at the weekend on a spin and tore my front derailleur in half. Was not a happy camper.
I had thought just to buy a quicklink when was planning on taking off the chain originally but didn't bother as thought would just use the chain remover instead. Obviously with hindsight was a bad decision. Anyway, are they just not meant to be opened anymore? Thanks!

P.s. I've now ordered a KMC re-usable quick link along with new chain and derailleur!

CramCycle

Did you reuse the pin? The chains are fine for reuse although a quicklink is far more convenient. It should make a loud snap as the pin pops out, so that is fine. I have never been a fan of shimano pins though since they have failed on me in the past, but so long as you used a new one it should have been fine. You'll be happy you got the quicklink though, much better job, and when you get a new chain Shimano ship with them now as well.

Type 17

Chains for single-speed and 5/6/7/8 speed setups can be opened and pressed back in.
Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

Because these chains are narrower, the pins don’t protrude as much as traditional designs, and so they are peened (stamped to spread the ends) to prevent the plates popping off the end of the pin under load. When the peened part is torn off during pressing out (as Dexif describes above), the pin is rendered unsafe and must not be re-used - either use a new (specially-designed) closing pin or press out the pin at the other side of the outer link and replace the whole outer-plate link with a speed-link.

CramCycle

Type 17 wrote: »

Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

And after I said it, it was only a 9 and 10 speed pin that has failed on me in the past, they were new for me, presuming not for dexif. I really hate those pins

Type 17

For clarity, the regular 9/10/11 speed pins (all ~115 of them) cannot be re-used, but neither can the special (re)closing pins.

If your chain has a re-closing pin in it already, and you want to open the chain again, don't choose the the re-closing pin to press out unless you are discarding that link and using a speed-link, as the larger end on the re-closing links is so big that it deforms (enlarges) the hole in the link plate, destroying it.

TBH, I never liked those Shimano re-closing pins, and always use a speed-link instead.