the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Dexif

Yep, I had re-used the old pin and same links as I always would have before. Expensive lesson learned! Thanks for the advice. Quick links for me in future (including in the back pocket for road side repairs!).

DaveyDave

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

magicbastarder

photo?

Type 17

DaveyDave wrote: »

...the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

Is it a threaded M5 or M6 hole, or just a big (~20mm) void up into the steerer tube?

gaffmaster

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

What type of bike is it? Sounds like it should have come with fixing hardware for mudguards. Lots of brands now supplying bridges etc with latest models.

DaveyDave

It's a Canyon Endurace ON. Looking at their website they seem to sell their own mudguards for some bikes and it looks like a bolt going up into the fork so might require some modification for normal mudguards as it doesn't seem common. Took the car to work today so won't have a picture until I'm home unfortunately. Got my girlfriend to send me a picture but it's not clear.

Upper fork mount aside I wonder if the placement of the eyelets is unsuitable for regular guards as they have their own brand of overpriced mudguards...

Sorry when I say hole I meant it's similar to the other ones on the frame, not an empty void similar to an MTB fork.

Mundo7976

Something like these maybe?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/sks-bluemels-road-mudguard-set/rp-prod84326

magicbastarder

on that pic of the fork, is that just threaded carbon?

Wishbone Ash

Headset Question:

Does anyone know if there is a recommended torque limit for the expanding bung (or whatever it's called) which goes into the steerer? When I tighten the top cap bolt, the bung is sliding up a couple of mm. I feel it is already fairly tight and I'm afraid of overdoing it. There is no torque limit stamped on or around it.

Any good videos or how to guides on how to maintain a bike properly especially after riding in the rain?

tomasrojo

tomasrojo wrote: »

I ordered that Shimano dynamo hub tool, by the way. I got paid for some teaching on Sunday, and I thought I might as well make things really straightforward, and I'd thought I might have a stronger chance of having the current internal assembly as a slightly wonky but otherwise undamaged back-up in the event that it's screwed in insanely tight, for while I'm so dependent on the cargo bike.

Thanks for all the advice and Cram's offer of dremel and socket help.

Don't judge me harshly!

It probably was a good idea to order the dynamo hub tool. The dynamo hub internal assembly was screwed in tight. I had to use a 40cm-long ring spanner around the nut-like projection on the tool and a hammer.

All done now anyway, and weird loud rubbing sound when the bike is in motion has gone.

magicbastarder

Deleted User wrote: »

Any good videos or how to guides on how to maintain a bike properly especially after riding in the rain?

GCN have a few on bike cleaning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvzVRxlIUL0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ak4AzlUz5Q

DaveyDave

magicbastarder wrote: »

on that pic of the fork, is that just threaded carbon?

Seems like it's a normal eyelet but flush and painted.

I might just go with the SKS Speedrocker. The weird height of the mounts on my bike means I'd have to bend whatever I got to fit or find an adjustable set. I don't mind clip ons, the Raceblades I have are solid they're just too short. The Speedrocker seems to be a good alternative.

Type 17

DaveyDave wrote: »

Seems like it's a normal eyelet but flush and painted.

I might just go with the SKS Speedrocker. The weird height of the mounts on my bike means I'd have to bend whatever I got to fit or find an adjustable set. I don't mind clip ons, the Raceblades I have are solid they're just too short. The Speedrocker seems to be a good alternative.

Have a look at these - Bontrager NCS mudguards - probably more expensive than some, but the stays are fully adjustable in any direction, including to eyelets which are halfway up the fork-blades - my wife's e-bike has a Suntour suspension fork like that, and they are perfect. You can also remove the tongue from the top of the front mudguard, to suit the eyelet at the bottom of the steerer.

Here they are on a road bike (the rear is fitted high at the back / low at the front to provide rear clearance for storage):

Shoco83

Should the lower tension jockey wheel spin freely? I was replacing a chain the other night and I noticed it was rather stiff, I took it off, cleaned it, I removed the seal but the bearings were fine. It spins freely in my hand, so put it back in the rear mech and it was stiff again, the guide wheel spins freely. I checked another bike and also noticed that the lower wheel was stiff.

magicbastarder

in my experience, they should spin freely. if they're stiff, it would suggest they're wearing excessively.

what derailleur is it? most use bushings rather than bearings.

dinneenp

Hi,
I've noticed for about the past month my rear wheel isn't smooth, an extremely slight 'bump' every revolution. I got a puncture and presume it's from the impact in a micro pothole in the road (that I didn't even notice) when I got my puncture.

Obviously I'll bring it to a bike shop to get it checked but is it something they'd be able to fix?

cletus

dinneenp wrote: »

Hi,
I've noticed for about the past month my rear wheel isn't smooth, an extremely slight 'bump' every revolution. I got a puncture and presume it's from the impact in a micro pothole in the road (that I didn't even notice) when I got my puncture.

Obviously I'll bring it to a bike shop to get it checked but is it something they'd be able to fix?

It depends on the issue, when you spin the wheel with the bike in a stand, can you see where the 'bump' is?

magicbastarder

It could be that after repairing the puncture, the tyre bead didn't sit back into the rim properly. Can you tell if both the wheel and the tyre are out of round, or just the tyre?

Shoco83

magicbastarder wrote: »

in my experience, they should spin freely. if they're stiff, it would suggest they're wearing excessively.

what derailleur is it? most use bushings rather than bearings.

It’s a dura ace 9100, less than year old, first time changing the chain so that’s how I noticed it. It spins freely when I take it out, it’s almost as if when you tighten the bolt, the cage seems to be clamping it, but this is the first time I’ve opened the cage so it came from the factory like that.

Type 17

When you say stiff, does it move when you flick it with a finger, or is it completely stuck (or almost stuck)?

Note that both of the Shimano jockey wheels are different than each other, and also have a correct direction to be fitted in (arrows show chain direction when pedalling). If you fit them the wrong way round (arrow points in wrong direction) or accidentally swap them*, the bottom one can foul on the curved spoke-deflector part of the metal swing-cage.


*Bottom is tension pulley, top is guide pulley, and their respective bushings are different - top/guide is longer, to allow for some lateral movement.

ED E

When did this thread lose its proper title? Boooo.



Anyways, are Ultegra pulley wheels something your LBS would stock? Turns out the reason my chain fouled up was one of mine went to bits.

Type 17

There was some confusion about whether MB meant Mountain Bike, and that it was only for MTB queries, so that was the reason it was changed (with Magicbastarder's consent)

8valve

ED E wrote: »

When did this thread lose its proper title? Boooo.



Anyways, are Ultegra pulley wheels something your LBS would stock? Turns out the reason my chain fouled up was one of mine went to bits.

BBB do a set of jockey wheels that are shimano and campagnolo 10/11 speed compatible for small money.

BBMcQ

Hey I have a Cannondale Quick 4, I’m looking to put cages on my basic pedals so that I can cycling in normal runners but get a bit more efficient ride.

Does anyone recommend particular cages?

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

BBB do a set of jockey wheels that are shimano and campagnolo 10/11 speed compatible for small money.

These are a very good replacement and have real bearings.
Note that there are two versions, one with 10 teeth per wheel (older derailleurs), and one with 11 teeth for newer ones.

ED E

8valve wrote: »

BBB do a set of jockey wheels that are shimano and campagnolo 10/11 speed compatible for small money.

Good tip, ta. Got them on Amazon with Prime, VAT taken off, delivery free, arriving Tuesday.

Shoco83

Type 17 wrote: »

When you say stiff, does it move when you flick it with a finger, or is it completely stuck (or almost stuck)?

Note that both of the Shimano jockey wheels are different than each other, and also have a correct direction to be fitted in (arrows show chain direction when pedalling). If you fit them the wrong way round (arrow points in wrong direction) or accidentally swap them*, the bottom one can foul on the curved spoke-deflector part of the metal swing-cage.


*Bottom is tension pulley, top is guide pulley, and their respective bushings are different - top/guide is longer, to allow for some lateral movement.

If you flick it with you’re finger it just stops dead, now it doesn’t take much effort to turn it but it does not spin freely, if you flick the guide jockey wheel it will spin away before coming to a stop.

The wheels are in correct, I only noticed it as I was changing the chain, so that’s how it came from the factory.

When I did take it apart and went to reassemble it it feels like once you start torquing the bolt, the cage squeezes it too tight if that makes sense

Just ordered a spider based power meter and have to swap will have to swap out both cranks with the new ones supplied. I haven't found a clear answer online but what type of grease do I need for the the crankshaft when it's inserted into the bottom bracket, all I have to hand at the moment is some of that pink silicon lubricant. Will that do?

cletus

Any lithium based grease should be fine