the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

MangleBadger

So trying to index my rear derailleur. And I can get the indexing fine for the smallest few sprockets. And the biggest couple seem fine. But I can never seem to get it to shift right in the middle gears. It is always skipping or jumping.
Sora 9 speed for reference. Am I just expecting too much from sora to be that smooth? Feel like I’ve always had less than ideal shifting. New cables chain and cassette recently fitted.

hesker

MangleBadger wrote: »

So trying to index my rear derailleur. And I can get the indexing fine for the smallest few sprockets. And the biggest couple seem fine. But I can never seem to get it to shift right in the middle gears. It is always skipping or jumping.
Sora 9 speed for reference. Am I just expecting too much from sora to be that smooth? Feel like I’ve always had less than ideal shifting. New cables chain and cassette recently fitted.

Try tuning it while in the middle gear. That has always worked for me.

Are all components from same manufacturer. I had an issue recently with a new 11 speed chain from one manufacturer not playing nice with a new 11s cassette from another even though they were supposed to be compatible

07Lapierre

MangleBadger wrote: »

So trying to index my rear derailleur. And I can get the indexing fine for the smallest few sprockets. And the biggest couple seem fine. But I can never seem to get it to shift right in the middle gears. It is always skipping or jumping.
Sora 9 speed for reference. Am I just expecting too much from sora to be that smooth? Feel like I’ve always had less than ideal shifting. New cables chain and cassette recently fitted.

How old is the rear derailleur?
If you put the chain on the smallest sprocket, hold the lower jockey wheel and move it in towards the wheel...is their any free play/flex? (Their shouldn't be)

MangleBadger

07Lapierre wrote: »

How old is the rear derailleur?
If you put the chain on the smallest sprocket, hold the lower jockey wheel and move it in towards the wheel...is their any free play/flex? (Their shouldn't be)

About 18 months old. There seems to be a bit of play in and out. It seems to be coming from the lower half, as it seems solid at the hanger.

https://imgur.com/a/8KQfz9c

07Lapierre

MangleBadger wrote: »

About 18 months old. There seems to be a bit of play in and out. It seems to be coming from the lower half, as it seems solid at the hanger.

https://imgur.com/a/8KQfz9c

That looks fine. The next thing I'd check is the distance between the cassette and the top jockey wheel. Unscrew the "B" screw and bring the jockey wheel as close as possible but without rubbing

Park tool videos are excellent: skip to,the 14:00 minute mark.

https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY

MangleBadger

07Lapierre wrote: »

That looks fine. The next thing I'd check is the distance between the cassette and the top jockey wheel. Unscrew the "B" screw and bring the jockey wheel as close as possible but without rubbing

Park tool videos are excellent: skip to,the 14:00 minute mark.

https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY

When I set the b limit screw there is still play in the derailleur for me to push it forward, and closer to the cassette. Should I worry about that or will tension hold it back?

Dcully

So im hearing like a rattle or vibration from my front disc braking system on my MTB, got it serviced mechanic said all was fine.
Its going on months now only really noticeable on roads.
Theres nothing loose that i can see myself,all i can think is the pads in their housing are the cause of noise if this is possible.
I dont see any real wear on the pads and braking performance is excellent as always.
Im not worried about anything mechanically but would like to silence it,possibly new pads the only way?

Plastik

Are the the ice-tech pads with the cooling fins? They're known for it.

Trying to fit a new 11 speed cassette to my trainer wheel but can't get the lock ring to tighten and the smallest cog is loose as well, previously I was using a 9 speed cassette on the wheel, I'm presuming the new cassette is too large for the hub?

Dcully

Plastik wrote: »

Are the the ice-tech pads with the cooling fins? They're known for it.

You could be onto something here, anyway around it apart from replacing?

nicksnikita

Deleted User wrote: »

Trying to fit a new 11 speed cassette to my trainer wheel but can't get the lock ring to tighten and the smallest cog is loose as well, previously I was using a 9 speed cassette on the wheel, I'm presuming the new cassette is too large for the hub?

Sounds like the freehub is only compatible up to 10-speed

Plastik

Dcully wrote: »

You could be onto something here, anyway around it apart from replacing?

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/ask-pinkbike-fixing-rattling-brake-pads-best-backcountry-bike-and-are-shock-lockouts-necessary.html

Haven't had to deal with it myself but I'd say there are loads of home solutions out there.

nicksnikita

nicksnikita wrote: »

Sounds like the freehub is only compatible up to 10-speed

Thanks I figured as much, I managed to get it on by removing the smallest cog which probably won't be a problem on a trainer, although I'll have to test that theory by doing an all out FTP test.

Is it possible to replace the freehub or would I need a new wheel?

Paul Kiernan

Deleted User wrote: »

Trying to fit a new 11 speed cassette to my trainer wheel but can't get the lock ring to tighten and the smallest cog is loose as well, previously I was using a 9 speed cassette on the wheel, I'm presuming the new cassette is too large for the hub?

It sounds like the opposite - that the cassette is too small for the hub! Is that possible? Is it a case that when you turn the lockring as far as you can the cogs are still loose? Have you tried a spacer?

If it's a case that it's a 10 speed freehub you can fit an 11 speed 11-34 cassette, either HG-700 or HG-800 as these are both smaller than all the other 11 speed cassettes.

07Lapierre

MangleBadger wrote: »

When I set the b limit screw there is still play in the derailleur for me to push it forward, and closer to the cassette. Should I worry about that or will tension hold it back?

Hard to tell without seeing it. When you changed the chain, is it the correct length? If it’s too long, their will be too much slack and the derailleur won’t be able to keep the tension on the chain.

padyjoe

I have to fiddle with my Sora all the time, if I get the low right, the high goes slightly off and vice versa. I'm nearing 7 years now and 30k kms on it with origanal jockey wheels. I will replace the jockey's soon, bbb ceramic going in, hopefully it'll be some improvement. Or maybe my range is too wide, 11-32. The new casette is 11-28, but not going on yet as I'm on the 2nd chain and have to wear 1 more chain out on it.

MangleBadger

07Lapierre wrote: »

Hard to tell without seeing it. When you changed the chain, is it the correct length? If it’s too long, their will be too much slack and the derailleur won’t be able to keep the tension on the chain.

New chain is same length as the old chain and cassette went from 11-34 to 11-36. So don’t think it could be too short. I adjusted the B limit screw and I think it’s better now. Can never tell until I get back out on it for certain.

Paul Kiernan

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

It sounds like the opposite - that the cassette is too small for the hub! Is that possible? Is it a case that when you turn the lockring as far as you can the cogs are still loose? Have you tried a spacer?

If it's a case that it's a 10 speed freehub you can fit an 11 speed 11-34 cassette, either HG-700 or HG-800 as these are both smaller than all the other 11 speed cassettes.

I'm no bike expert but I don't think that's possible I mean a 9 speed fitted ok, although I've removed one cog and the lock ring is done up tightly some of the cogs still turn freely.

I think I've found a solution although not the simplest it should be possible to take 1.8mm off the cassette using a lathe, I'm going to contact a local engineering company on Monday to see if they will do it and what it costs.

Type 17

MangleBadger wrote: »

New chain is same length as the old chain and cassette went from 11-34 to 11-36. So don’t think it could be too short. I adjusted the B limit screw and I think it’s better now. Can never tell until I get back out on it for certain.

The correct adjustment for the B-screw is that the top jockey wheel is as close as possible to the cassette, but that when the chain is on the biggest sprocket/little ring (lowest gear), you can back-pedal and the teeth of the top jockey wheel don't bump on the teeth of the biggest sprocket.
For most setups, this means the b-screw is fully unscrewed, but if the cassette is on the bigger side of the RD's capacity, it will probably need to be screwed in to some extent.

breezy1985

I'm about 500k into a new bike and a screw has come loose on both pedals. Not the screw that attaches it to the bike but a little screw that attaches the metal U on the pedal to the bracket. Gonna take it back to the shop but should I be happy if he just screws it back in

It's just a regular set of pedal btw

Type 17

It's a common issue with cheaper pedals, especially when the body of the pedal (the bit inside the U) is made of plastic.
If it keeps happening (usually when you are a powerful rider), you could see if the bike shop will swap them for a set of metal-bodied pedals (or at least give you a discount on them).

triggermortis

MangleBadger wrote: »

New chain is same length as the old chain.

You did count the number of links to make sure that's the same? If you just match the length of the new to old chains, then your new chain will be too long

MangleBadger

triggermortis wrote: »

You did count the number of links to make sure that's the same? If you just match the length of the new to old chains, then your new chain will be too long

Yeah. Counted links.

nicksnikita

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm no bike expert but I don't think that's possible I mean a 9 speed fitted ok, although I've removed one cog and the lock ring is done up tightly some of the cogs still turn freely.

I think I've found a solution although not the simplest it should be possible to take 1.8mm off the cassette using a lathe, I'm going to contact a local engineering company on Monday to see if they will do it and what it costs.

Still trying to get my head around this one...

Can you remember if there was a spacer behind the 9-speed cassette you removed?

Is it possible that the freehub body is very worn and is no longer engaging the notches on the cogs, thus allowing the cogs to spin freely on the body?

You mentioned the smallest cog is turning freely...are you sure it is properly engaged with the freehub body before you tighten the lockring?

I wouldn't be going for a bespoke cassette alteration at any rate. Any bike shop would get to the bottom of your issue very quickly, I'm sure. Possible solutions are: new freehub, different cassette, or, at worst, new wheel

cletus

I'd be in the same boat as nicksnikita. I can't see why you'd have to machine off any material from the cassette.

When the cassette is on, does the locknut tighten against it, or dies it just bottom out on the threads?

Have you checked for engagement with each of the cogs separately on the freehub?

Paul Kiernan

nicksnikita wrote: »

Still trying to get my head around this one...

I gave up!

But now I've been dragged back in ....

It's almost certain the freehub is not 11-speed. If you don't want to fit an 11-34 cassette then just find a cheap secondhand wheel somewhere. It's for a trainer after all!

Paul Kiernan

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I gave up!

But now I've been dragged back in ....

It's almost certain the freehub is not 11-speed. If you don't want to fit an 11-34 cassette then just find a cheap secondhand wheel somewhere. It's for a trainer after all!

The Freehub is definitely not a 11 speed the wheel was bough tyears ago for something like €50 and until recently I had an 8 speed on it.

Thanks everyone for all of your help.

Just on the subject of cheap wheels, could someone explain to me why this one is so cheap? I understand it's not a Freehub so no freewheeling not that that is possible on a fluid trainer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U7HIUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_950TQJVYF3C6WKT7ZQB4

CramCycle

Deleted User wrote: »

Just on the subject of cheap wheels, could someone explain to me why this one is so cheap? I understand it's not a Freehub so no freewheeling not that that is possible on a fluid trainer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U7HIUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_950TQJVYF3C6WKT7ZQB4

Not suitable for a trainer IMO, it appears to be fixed/fixed, it is heavy, and having had similar wheels like this on cheap buys, won't deal with much harsh riding on Irish roads. Its cheap because it is a basic wheel and only of use to people building cheap "fixies" for resale, won't last a year outside.

spiggotpaddy

They don't seem so bad to look at considering the chain was starting to skip like really smart kangaroo.

Type 17

By the time you can see much wear, a cassette is toast. On your one, you can see a profile difference on the left sides of the teeth, compared to the right sides, especially on the sprocket marked with a D.

For entertainment purposes, here are two more extreme examples, both of which were only changed because the bikes had become unrideable. Note the wear inside the rollers of the chain, with the rollers standing up as they rest on the sprocket.