the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

07Lapierre

tdf7187 wrote: »

I've pretty much done that and it's fine. Guess there's no point in obsessing over the distance unless anyone else has input on the matter.

nah the distance measurements are more "recommendations" than an absolute requirement.

I've to fit a new Campag from derailleur over the weekend. Campagnolo recommend using a special tool to measure the distance from the chainring to the derailleur cage. I just use my eye and place it where it looks right.

no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

DaveyDave

07Lapierre wrote: »

nah the distance measurements are more "recommendations" than an absolute requirement.

I've to fit a new Campag from derailleur over the weekend. Campagnolo recommend using a special tool to measure the distance from the chainring to the derailleur cage. I just use my eye and place it where it looks right.

no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

Reduced from €100, what a bargain!

Wishbone Ash

07Lapierre wrote: »

....no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

DaveyDave wrote: »

Reduced from €100, what a bargain!

We could organise a Boards bulk buy! :pac:

07Lapierre

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

We could organise a Boards bulk buy! :pac:

Here's one that's a bit more reasonable.... but its still mad money for a piece of plastic!

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/campagnolo-front-mech-alignment-tool~c12544~p28849843/?exta=gshpgbie&stat=eyJpcCI6IjE3Ljk5IiwiZHAiOjAsImxpZCI6IjM5NjUyODE3IiwicyI6IjEiLCJ0IjoxNjIxMTczNDMwLCJibWMiOiIwLjAifQ==&lid=39652817&ocid=ie&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkrHZ55Lb8AIVk6iyCh3sEAduEAQYASABEgLGffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Pdoghue

DaveyDave wrote: »

Most disc wheels should be 12mm thru axle as standard but some also support QR or 15mm with adaptors. You can use your old rotor if it matches the wheel, if it's 6 bolt rotor on a Centrelock wheel you can get an adaptor which is probably cheaper than buying a new rotor.

Bolt thru = thru axle. HH12 = 12mm.

Keep in mind Centrelock have two lockrings, external toothing (bottom bracket style) or internal toothing (cassette style)

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

Wishbone Ash

07Lapierre wrote: »

Here's one that's a bit more reasonable.... but its still mad money for a piece of plastic!

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/campagnolo-front-mech-alignment-tool~c12544~p28849843/?exta=gshpgbie&stat=eyJpcCI6IjE3Ljk5IiwiZHAiOjAsImxpZCI6IjM5NjUyODE3IiwicyI6IjEiLCJ0IjoxNjIxMTczNDMwLCJibWMiOiIwLjAifQ==&lid=39652817&ocid=ie&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkrHZ55Lb8AIVk6iyCh3sEAduEAQYASABEgLGffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Weird description!

Description & Details
Campagnolo Front Mech Alignment Tool Description
Race ready glove with everything that you need and nothing you don't. Lightweight, breathable and comfortable, the Glotech cycling glove perfectly adapts to any situation whether you are racing, training or on that long epic adventure atop two wheels.

Paul Kiernan

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

What type of wheel (hub) is it? You might be able to convert it from QR to thru-axle which would save you a lot of hassle!

DaveyDave

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

Not sure about any websites but you shouldn't have too much trouble with compatability. Assuming a new fork comes with its own thru axle there won't be issues with the threads of the axle not screwing in. You'll just want to make sure the fork fits your frame/stem etc which is just a general thing.

Once the fork fits, the wheels will be 12mm, I haven't seen something that's only 15mm, but 12mm that can be adapted to QR/15mm (although to be fair, I've only had a bike with disc wheels for a month, I'm sure there's some obscure 15mm only options out there)

Rotor will either be 6 bolt or Centrelock, worst case scenario you'll need an adaptor or new rotor if it doesn't fit. AFS = Centrelock.

It's certainly messy, it doesn't help there's QR disc wheels AND thru axle disc wheels, on top of rim brake options...

tdf7187

At what stage does a rear cassette typically need replacing? Bike is hybrid, 2 years old approx, approx 6,000k on it, mainly commuter type cycling, occasional Wicklow hill/mountain road cycles, no off-road use to speak of.

magicbastarder

General rule is after two or three chains if the chain had been replaced before it gets too worn. If the chain is badly worn it may be easiest to just replace both.

You can pick up chain wear checkers for under a tenner.

tdf7187

Thanks magicb. I'm on my third chain so reckon no harm in a new cassette.

Weepsie

Will old force post mount calipers work with Sram rivam levers that came with flat mount calipers. Just a matter of switching them over?

54and56

Anyone familiar with the storage compartment Trek built into the downtube of their current models will know it's a clever but finicky design which involves rolling your spare tube and tyre levers into a velcro closing "sleeve" which is then inserted up into the cavity in the downtube with the cover then inserted and locked using an open / close lever.

It works and means you don't need a saddle bag or to carry the tube and levers in your pockets but whilst I initially wasn't that confident it would handle the pulling and dragging of getting a water bottle in and out of the cage which attached to the storage cover it seems to work albeit a little wobbly.

The reason for my post is that the cover on my Domane has become stuck and won't open when the lever is in the open position, it's like the cover has somehow gotten tangled with the sleeve and no matter what I do, bar rip it off using brute force, it simply won't come off which isn't ideal given I'll need to open it without any issues if I need to deal with a puncture.

I can bring the bike to the LBS I bought it from tomorrow but thought I'd share here first to see if you guys have any ideas or come across a solution to this?

I've Googled etc but can't find any discussion or YouTube video's of it being a problem so maybe I'm just unlucky on this occasion.



EDIT: The retaining rivet (see the black cap highlighted in the photo below) which operates the open/close mechanism in place is just pressed on and that had come loose locking the door closed. LBS got the door open, found the rivet in the storage compartment, refitted it (hopefully better than was originally the case) and I'm back in business. Just thought I'd update for info in case anyone else comes across this problem.

Type 17

It's a bit late to look at it now, but the Trek video about the storage area mentions that you should push the BITS bag fully up inside the frame, only leaving the pull-ribbon under the door. Saying that, if you freeze the vid at 1:28 the two latches look like they expand/retract straight out to the sides, making tangling very unlikely.

If the lever is open and the cover is still latched, the lever may have become detached from the latch (warranty?).

It might be worth visiting a Trek dealer (your LBS?) to look at how the lever/latch works on one of their display bikes, which might help you see what's happening on yours.

54and56

Type 17 wrote: »

It's a bit late to look at it now, but the Trek video about the storage area mentions that you should push the BITS bag fully up inside the frame, only leaving the pull-ribbon under the door. Saying that, if you freeze the vid at 1:28 the two latches look like they expand/retract straight out to the sides, making tangling very unlikely.

If the lever is open and the cover is still latched, the lever may have become detached from the latch (warranty?).

It might be worth visiting a Trek dealer (your LBS?) to look at how the lever/latch works on one of their display bikes, which might help you see what's happening on yours.

Great observation / advice Type 17, appreciate it.

The BITS bag was definitely shoved right up when I installed it but that was 4 months and at least 2,000km ago so over time with road vibration and gravity etc I guess it could have moved back down and is somehow now contributing to this problem.

The LBS where I bought the bike is a Trek dealer so they'll be able to help I'm sure and of the latch has become detached I'm sure they'll sort it for me.

For once I've resisted the temptation to make things worse by applying brute force!!

Type 17

54and56 wrote: »

For once I've resisted the temptation to make things worse by applying brute force!!

Good idea - if you break it, it's your problem - let the LBS check it (and if they break it, Trek will replace the door under warranty).

g0g

Are 35 tyres likely to be fine for a wheel that had 32 on it? If yes, does having a 32 and 35 on different wheels potentially cause issues?

I have an Orbea Vector Drop commuter/gravel-type bike which has 32s and I ordered a new tyre and in error picked 35.

Should I get off my arse and return/exchange it or is the difference minor and won't matter?

Type 17

No problem if one wheel has a different width than the other (unless the difference is massive, and this is not).

Also, with a gravel bike, there should be good clearance at the seat-stays and chain-stays on the frame and at the fork-crown, so it's unlikely you will run into trouble with just the next size up.

Pdoghue

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not sure about any websites but you shouldn't have too much trouble with compatability. Assuming a new fork comes with its own thru axle there won't be issues with the threads of the axle not screwing in. You'll just want to make sure the fork fits your frame/stem etc which is just a general thing.

Once the fork fits, the wheels will be 12mm, I haven't seen something that's only 15mm, but 12mm that can be adapted to QR/15mm (although to be fair, I've only had a bike with disc wheels for a month, I'm sure there's some obscure 15mm only options out there)

Rotor will either be 6 bolt or Centrelock, worst case scenario you'll need an adaptor or new rotor if it doesn't fit. AFS = Centrelock.

It's certainly messy, it doesn't help there's QR disc wheels AND thru axle disc wheels, on top of rim brake options...

Thanks. I think Shimano RS170 wheelset should work?

DaveyDave

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks. I think Shimano RS170 wheelset should work?

Should do, standard 12mm thru axles and Centrelock discs. Nothing unusual to worry about.

Pdoghue

DaveyDave wrote: »

Should do, standard 12mm thru axles and Centrelock discs. Nothing unusual to worry about.

Thank you.

IrishLad90

When cycling in higher gear my pedal is letting out a lot of noise.
I must have put too much pressure on it during an ascent and want to know how I can remedy it...
can anyone help me out here?

cletus

What sort of pedal, and what sort of noise?

IrishLad90

cletus wrote: »

What sort of pedal, and what sort of noise?

Vero FSA and an almost 'strained grind' sound .. Ive to presume its coming more from the crank area, Ive limited knowledge with regards to this issue and the components...
With low gears there is no noise at all

cletus

Is there noise with no weight on the bike? so if you pick up the rear wheel off the ground and turn the cranks

IrishLad90

cletus wrote: »

Is there noise with no weight on the bike? so if you pick up the rear wheel off the ground and turn the cranks

Ive checked and am not hearing the noise or feeling any resistance in that higher gear, there is only so much pressure I can apply with my hands tho..

magicbastarder

you sure it's the pedal? is there any play in the crankset?

cletus

Yeah, I was going to say either crank or bottom bracket

IrishLad90

The noise is more a loud Creaking when pressure is applied, it is mostly on the right side when starting or even the slightest incline but is fine on flat ground/decline..
I dont have the tools/knowledge to remove/adjust the crank...
There is no loose parts in the area. I just watched a YT tutorial and removing the crank and greasing looks like it would cover my issue But it still could be caused by a number of things and without the tools im very limited ATM

cletus

Traditionally, creaking sounds are put down to the bottom bracket, but honestly, without seeing it or hearing it, it's hard to pinpoint, and a lack of tools makes it harder to suggest things to try.