the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

IrishLad90

appreciate the help, Ive a bit more direction now in my next move

MangleBadger

Now this is going to be a stupid question...
Replacing the chainrings on my sora crankset. I somehow decided to start putting it back together without putting the 34t ring on. Now I cannot remove 3 of the bolts, the sleeve they tighten onto just keeps rotating with them. Have I completely ****ed it?

cletus

MangleBadger wrote: »

Now this is going to be a stupid question...
Replacing the chainrings on my sora crankset. I somehow decided to start putting it back together without putting the 34t ring on. Now I cannot remove 3 of the bolts, the sleeve they tighten onto just keeps rotating with them. Have I completely ****ed it?

Can you grip the sleeve with a pliers or similar

magicbastarder

are they keyed on the back to allow you to use a screwdriver to grab them? i may be thinking of the wrong bolts.

MangleBadger

magicbastarder wrote: »

are they keyed on the back to allow you to use a screwdriver to grab them? i may be thinking of the wrong bolts.

I cannot get to the back as there is a cover on the backside of the chainring

cletus

MangleBadger wrote: »

I cannot get to the back as there is a cover on the backside of the chainring

Can you take a photo

MangleBadger

Cut my losses and visited the new LBS in Dun Laoghaire, CycleHub. Been in there a couple of times now and they’ve been more than helpful.
He had to pry off the faceplate to get at the back of the bolts. But he got me sorted and my bike is back in one piece.
For a minute I was very scared I would have to try find a new crankset.

tdf7187

magicbastarder wrote: »

General rule is after two or three chains if the chain had been replaced before it gets too worn. If the chain is badly worn it may be easiest to just replace both.

You can pick up chain wear checkers for under a tenner.

Was quoted approx €100 for replacement of cassette, rear derailleur and chain, does this strike people as reasonable?

Type 17

Depends on the spec of the items - how many speed is the drivetrain, and what model of derailleur?

tdf7187

Type 17 wrote: »

Depends on the spec of the items - how many speed is the drivetrain, and what model of derailleur?

7 speed. Derailleur is Shimano Tourney RD-TY300-SGS.

Weepsie

50-60 quid for parts, 40 for-50 for labour. Probably about right.

magicbastarder

why does the RD need replacement? jockey wheels i could understand, that'd be a tenner maybe.

nicksnikita

IrishLad90 wrote: »

appreciate the help, Ive a bit more direction now in my next move

I had some creaking recently on climbs...turned out it was the front wheel QR skewer making the noise. That’s worth checking.

I’ve also seen in the past where a noise like yours is caused by the chain rubbing on the front derailleur in the higher gears. Have a look at that also.

I’ve found in the past that noises like the one you describe are generally not rooted in the bottom bracket area and are sometimes a simple fix if they can be located...

Paddigol

Converted to tubeless on my CX bike last autumn, based on pretty much everyone saying how great a set up it is. I've had nothing but trouble with my rear wheel. Switched from Griffo CX tyre to Gravelkings a couple of weeks ago, and took bike out of shed this morning to find it completely deflated. Much like myself at this stage.

I don't do the fitting/ sealing myself, so at least I know it's not me. And it's been fitted/ resealed by three different shops/ mechanics so it's not the repeated mistake of one person. When fitted first it stays inflated for 24 hours before I ride it. Last spin was just work commute on roads/ cycle lanes so it can't be terrain. Shouldn't be the rims either (Mavic Allroad) as apart from the fact that they're supposedly tubeless ready, I've had zero issues with front wheel.

I'm close to giving up on it as its just not worth the hassle.

Sorry I'm no expert on bikes but have you read much about the problem online?

This site might be helpful there is a few other topics on the same site about the same issue might be worth a read.

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/tubeless-tyres-constantly-deflating-any-solutions/

Hope you get the issue fixed soon.

nicksnikita

Paddigol wrote: »

Converted to tubeless on my CX bike last autumn, based on pretty much everyone saying how great a set up it is. I've had nothing but trouble with my rear wheel. Switched from Griffo CX tyre to Gravelkings a couple of weeks ago, and took bike out of shed this morning to find it completely deflated. Much like myself at this stage.

I don't do the fitting/ sealing myself, so at least I know it's not me. And it's been fitted/ resealed by three different shops/ mechanics so it's not the repeated mistake of one person. When fitted first it stays inflated for 24 hours before I ride it. Last spin was just work commute on roads/ cycle lanes so it can't be terrain. Shouldn't be the rims either (Mavic Allroad) as apart from the fact that they're supposedly tubeless ready, I've had zero issues with front wheel.

I'm close to giving up on it as its just not worth the hassle.

Check GP Lama on YouTube. He had - and solved - this issue recently.

But you’re right, it’s not worth the hassle imo

dahat

Anyone had issues with an Ultegra rh hydraulic shifter?

I’ve seen links to issues for LH 105 shifter but wondering if that solution would work? I’m just curious really as hike going to lbs for solution as it’s a new bike.

tdf7187

magicbastarder wrote: »

why does the RD need replacement? jockey wheels i could understand, that'd be a tenner maybe.

There is slippage in some gears. High and low limit, alignment screws all fine so by a process of elimination I figure it is either bent derailleur or needs new cassette. Don't see point in getting one replaced if turns out to be the other. I know there are tools which can check if derailleur is bent but I don't see point in forking out tbh. Or do you think I should ask bike shop to assess it?

ironictoaster

Just noticed my bike with tubeless tyres has a slow puncture. Pinhole near the rim. The tyre seems to be seated fine.

Just wondering is there any temp fixes for this? Was hoping to go on a long cycle with the good weather tomorrow!

Brian?

ironictoaster wrote: »

Just noticed my bike with tubeless tyres has a slow puncture. Pinhole near the rim. The tyre seems to be seated fine.

Just wondering is there any temp fixes for this? Was hoping to go on a long cycle with the good weather tomorrow!

How slow? Goes down overnight or over a couple of hours?

Paul Kiernan

dahat wrote: »

Anyone had issues with an Ultegra rh hydraulic shifter?

I’ve seen links to issues for LH 105 shifter but wondering if that solution would work? I’m just curious really as hike going to lbs for solution as it’s a new bike.

I've had nothing but trouble with mine! The bleed screw (2mm hex) rounded out so I can't bleed it! Then I tried to adjust reach using this screw which caused the fluid to leak out when I turned the bike outside down. On the plus side the leak meant I could insert fluid from the caliper and blow the bubbles out through the leak but all in all it's a bit of a mess!

ironictoaster

Brian? wrote: »

How slow? Goes down overnight or over a couple of hours?

Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!

CantGetNoSleep

ironictoaster wrote: »

Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!

If you are going today, pump it up before you go on the ride, don't pump to too high a pressure though as sometimes the problem is tubeless sealant cannot cope with road pressures.

Then I'd suggest patching the tire from the inside with an inner tube patch + glue.

CantGetNoSleep

I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
- Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
- Cassette
- Pedals / cleat connection
- BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

Any ideas?

nicksnikita

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
- Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
- Cassette
- Pedals / cleat connection
- BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

Any ideas?

I have a similar squeak on my single speed Mtb.
It’s comes from the saddle itself (it’s an old Brooks unit).

You might be right in focusing around the saddle/seatpost area.

I’d grease the seatpost itself and make sure the seatpost clamp is mounted correctly.
Maybe swap the saddle temporarily if you have a spare one lying around and that’ll tell you whether the saddle itself is at fault.
You could also lightly grease the contact areas between seatpost and saddle.

Brian?

ironictoaster wrote: »

Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!

Pump it up again so. It'll be grand.

dahat

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
- Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
- Cassette
- Pedals / cleat connection
- BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

Any ideas?

What cleats do you use? I had a creak issue that I found d was the black grip on the look cleats.

CantGetNoSleep

nicksnikita wrote: »

I have a similar squeak on my single speed Mtb.
It’s comes from the saddle itself (it’s an old Brooks unit).

You might be right in focusing around the saddle/seatpost area.

I’d grease the seatpost itself and make sure the seatpost clamp is mounted correctly.
Maybe swap the saddle temporarily if you have a spare one lying around and that’ll tell you whether the saddle itself is at fault.
You could also lightly grease the contact areas between seatpost and saddle.

Thanks - so I am ok to grease an alu seatpost in an alu frame?

CantGetNoSleep

dahat wrote: »

What cleats do you use? I had a creak issue that I found d was the black grip on the look cleats.

Shimano MTB & the reason I had a thought it could be them is the metal on metal

Brian?

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Thanks - so I am ok to grease an alu seatpost in an alu frame?

It's not just ok, it's highly recommended