the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

covey123

magicbastarder wrote: »

what's the rear derailleur? usually there are stated limits for the derailleur - you may be in luck and find that it has the capability to deal with a 46 tooth cassette.

It's a Sram GX looks like it should clear a bigger cassette.

So I recently got burned not looking up standards/sizes, would there be any issues with compatibility with the following;

Cassette ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/sunrace-11-speed-cassette-csmx8-eaz-box-m/142272.html

Chainring ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/funn-solo-96-narrow-wide-96-mm-11-speed-single-chainring-shimano-xtr-m9000-m9020-xt-m8000-4-arms-black/125112.html

To fit XT rear hub and SLX FC-M7000-11 (BCD bolts are not equidistant on this crank)

I'm assuming any brand chain will do?

gucci

Can you help me here? I need to replace these brakes.
They are cantilever type, but I don't really seem to be able to find anything that looks like the connection shaft (online)
The shaft is 6.75mm diameter.

Would this kind of thing work?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-m947-cantilever-post-brake-pads?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100319606&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7_LMuWb_KU1f8Q7dfvkCdJ3WobGgUMQeiBNyA-lByU6TcwSpTJa88aAhPXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

magicbastarder

covey123 wrote: »

It's a Sram GX looks like it should clear a bigger cassette.

if it's this one, it officially has a max capacity of 42T. you can be guaranteed there's wiggle room built in though.

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rd-gx-1-a1

Zen0

gucci wrote: »

Can you help me here? I need to replace these brakes.
They are cantilever type, but I don't really seem to be able to find anything that looks like the connection shaft (online)
The shaft is 6.75mm diameter.

Would this kind of thing work?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-m947-cantilever-post-brake-pads?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100319606&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7_LMuWb_KU1f8Q7dfvkCdJ3WobGgUMQeiBNyA-lByU6TcwSpTJa88aAhPXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes, they should fit.

Seth Brundle

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

magicbastarder

what happens if you undo the clamp for the cable? can you manipulate the FD by hand?

Brian?

Seth Brundle wrote: »

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

Take off the cable and chain. Wd40 the spring in the derailleur and move the derailleur back and forward by hand a load of times. You should feel it free up.


If it's already free and easy by hand. There is something broken and it needs to be replaced

Seth Brundle

magicbastarder wrote: »

what happens if you undo the clamp for the cable? can you manipulate the FD by hand?

Brian? wrote: »

Take off the cable and chain. Wd40 the spring in the derailleur and move the derailleur back and forward by hand a load of times. You should feel it free up.


If it's already free and easy by hand. There is something broken and it needs to be replaced

I'll try these later, thanks.

nicksnikita

Seth Brundle wrote: »

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

Have a look on YouTube for ‘front derailleur troubleshooting’ or google fd won’t move to big ring. Plenty of results there.

There’s a fair few possible causes but most are simple fixes without dismantling (unless something is broken)

One possible cause is a slight loss in cable tension. Here’s how to check that:
Move the shifter to the position that corresponds to the big ring.
Have the chain say third from smallest cog on the rear.
Add extra tension to the fd cable by gripping it with your hand and pulling it.
If the FD moves outward (towards the big ring) under the additional tension, then you know the cable tension is insufficient...

cletus

Are you letting the glue go off before applying the patch? It shouldn't go on to "wet" glue (or more correctly, rubber cement)

Brian?

I throw the tubes out and put in new ones. For the amount of punctures I get it's not worth my time repairing them.

I haven't had a puncture in over a year, at a guess.

nomdeboardie

cletus wrote: »

Are you letting the glue go off before applying the patch? It shouldn't go on to "wet" glue (or more correctly, rubber cement)

(Sorry, I deleted and am reuploading!)

Yes, think I'm waiting long enough - doing as have done sucessfully in past. Thanks

nomdeboardie

The last 2 punctures I got have been in the inner tube product pictured below, and I've failed to patch them with the repair kit shown in the same photo. The patch goes on OK initially, but when I put it into the wheel-tyre and inflate it fails before reaching normal operating pressure. When I take it out and try inflating again I see a leak from a point on the edge. The first time this happened I tried repatching a couple of times before giving up and putting in a new tube. This time I knew it was futile to try again and put in another new tube. I know some people will tell me that patches are not meant to last, but I've had good results in the past. Plus, tubes are not cheap, and I don’t want to try bulk-buying online as I just don't get enough punctures to make it practical, assuming they have a limited shelf-life.

Some possibilities about the patching:
(1) The kit is crap (can't remember if I had used it successfully before the latest 2 attempts, though)
(2) The patches and/or glue in it have passed their shelf-life (can't remember when I bought it)
(3) Mechanical mismatch? Perhaps the patches are just too big for these skinny tubes, as patch diameter is greater than the width of the flattened tube (half-circumference), so they have to be 'wrapped' around awkwardly when applying, and maybe the overall curvature is too stressful when inflated (OK, now I'm just making stuff up)

I'll have to get more tubes and repair materials, so any thoughts/recommendations welcome

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=554868&stc=1&d=1622745847

PS - aploogies to the 2 people who replied above while I re-uploaded this!

Brian?

nomdeboardie wrote: »

The last 2 punctures I got have been in the inner tube product pictured below, and I've failed to patch them with the repair kit shown in the same photo. The patch goes on OK initially, but when I put it into the wheel-tyre and inflate it fails before reaching normal operating pressure. When I take it out and try inflating again I see a leak from a point on the edge. The first time this happened I tried repatching a couple of times before giving up and putting in a new tube. This time I knew it was futile to try again and put in another new tube. I know some people will tell me that patches are not meant to last, but I've had good results in the past. Plus, tubes are not cheap, and I don’t want to try bulk-buying online as I just don't get enough punctures to make it practical, assuming they have a limited shelf-life.

Some possibilities about the patching:
(1) The kit is crap (can't remember if I had used it successfully before the latest 2 attempts, though)
(2) The patches and/or glue in it have passed their shelf-life (can't remember when I bought it)
(3) Mechanical mismatch? Perhaps the patches are just too big for these skinny tubes, as patch diameter is greater than the width of the flattened tube (half-circumference), so they have to be 'wrapped' around awkwardly when applying, and maybe the overall curvature is too stressful when inflated (OK, now I'm just making stuff up)

I'll have to get more tubes and repair materials, so any thoughts/recommendations welcome

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=554868&stc=1&d=1622745847

PS - aploogies to the 2 people who replied above while I re-uploaded this!

How often are you getting punctures?

nomdeboardie

Brian? wrote: »

How often are you getting punctures?

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

Brian?

nomdeboardie wrote: »

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

Ah fair enough.

I don't have any environmental guilt though, tubes biodegrade quickly enough.

covey123

magicbastarder wrote: »

if it's this one, it officially has a max capacity of 42T. you can be guaranteed there's wiggle room built in though.

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rd-gx-1-a1

That's it alright,tbh I the only 42T cassettes I can find available at the moment are all high end, that 46T was a bit more wallet friendly so was considering that

cletus

nomdeboardie wrote: »

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

Buy a new repair kit, and try using a smaller patch. Make sure the rubber cement is tacky, almost dry, before applying the patch

covey123

covey123 wrote: »

It's a Sram GX looks like it should clear a bigger cassette.

So I recently got burned not looking up standards/sizes, would there be any issues with compatibility with the following;

Cassette ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/sunrace-11-speed-cassette-csmx8-eaz-box-m/142272.html

Chainring ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/funn-solo-96-narrow-wide-96-mm-11-speed-single-chainring-shimano-xtr-m9000-m9020-xt-m8000-4-arms-black/125112.html

To fit XT rear hub and SLX FC-M7000-11 (BCD bolts are not equidistant on this crank)

I'm assuming any brand chain will do?

Would anyone have any info as to whether the chainring would fit the cranks?

CramCycle

nomdeboardie wrote: »

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

If you are around Dublin or Wicklow I will send you a Conti tube at cost, bought a 50 pack.

Jeremy Sproket

Are Halfords bikes any good? I saw a good road bike for €250ish.

They are easier and more versatile than a hybrid (I'm open to correction) and you can get up a higher speed easier. Should I steer clear of Halford's for bikes?

CramCycle

There is nothing wrong with Halfords bikes, but to be clear, you didn't see a good road bike in Halfords for €250. You seen a superficially decent road bike for €250. It will however get you from A to B and for short distances be grand in the short term.
If you want a decent road bike and halfords is your only option, you will need to boost the budget a bit.

doozerie

nomdeboardie wrote: »

The last 2 punctures I got have been in the inner tube product pictured below, and I've failed to patch them with the repair kit shown in the same photo. The patch goes on OK initially, but when I put it into the wheel-tyre and inflate it fails before reaching normal operating pressure. When I take it out and try inflating again I see a leak from a point on the edge. The first time this happened I tried repatching a couple of times before giving up and putting in a new tube. This time I knew it was futile to try again and put in another new tube. I know some people will tell me that patches are not meant to last, but I've had good results in the past. Plus, tubes are not cheap, and I don’t want to try bulk-buying online as I just don't get enough punctures to make it practical, assuming they have a limited shelf-life.

Some possibilities about the patching:
(1) The kit is crap (can't remember if I had used it successfully before the latest 2 attempts, though)
(2) The patches and/or glue in it have passed their shelf-life (can't remember when I bought it)
(3) Mechanical mismatch? Perhaps the patches are just too big for these skinny tubes, as patch diameter is greater than the width of the flattened tube (half-circumference), so they have to be 'wrapped' around awkwardly when applying, and maybe the overall curvature is too stressful when inflated (OK, now I'm just making stuff up)

I'll have to get more tubes and repair materials, so any thoughts/recommendations welcome

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=554868&stc=1&d=1622745847

PS - aploogies to the 2 people who replied above while I re-uploaded this!

Are you using sandpaper to roughen the surface area of the tube where you are applying the glue?

This works for me:
* Use sandpaper to rough up a slightly larger area than the patch will cover.
* Apply glue, smear it round with my finger to try to achieve a consistent thickness over the entire area.
* When glue is dry to the touch apply the patch. Push hard on the centre of the patch and work outwards to the edges, pressing down hard as you go.
* Leave it a couple of minutes before inflating the tube, otherwise the edges of the patch may pull away as the tube stretches.

I haven't used that particular repair kit but I suspect the glue doesn't vary much if at all between the various brands. And I've had success with various type of patches from multiple brands.

doozerie

Brian? wrote: »

I don't have any environmental guilt though, tubes biodegrade quickly enough.

I really don't think that butyl tubes biodegrade quickly. If they biodegrade it all I expect it's measured in tens of years at a minimum (and I may well be out by a factor of 10, or 10 to the power of 10).

I believe that latex tubes break down more quickly, but still not "quick" by any definition of that word that I recognise.

magicbastarder

my garden pond is lined with butyl rubber. above or below the waterline, i believe it generally has a stated lifespan of 20 years, and that's a functional one regarding being a usable pond liner, and not an actual lifespan before it completely degrades.
if it has a 20 year usable lifespan, i suspect the actual biodegradability is measured in centuries; albeit with the caveat that it's clearly not toxic as a rubber product.

as i posted here last year, i bought a bike with an intact and functional dunlop inner tube made in ireland and i think it was 8valve who pointed out that dunlop closed their factory in ireland in 1984.

We're getting into half life territory here now.

In Drogheda there is a factory that used to make perfume that now recycles tyres / rubber, so when you ride by you get the smell of rubber on one side mixed with the smell of coconut creams on the other from the biscuit factory but when the tyre place first started up you got a sickly smell of rubber and stale perfume.

nomdeboardie

cletus wrote: »

Buy a new repair kit, and try using a smaller patch. Make sure the rubber cement is tacky, almost dry, before applying the patch

Thanks. Cement was indeed almot dry. Don't think kit tend to have smaller patches, but ask in shop; I suppose I could trim them, but would lose any tapering on the edge, if that matters.

nomdeboardie

CramCycle wrote: »

If you are around Dublin or Wicklow I will send you a Conti tube at cost, bought a 50 pack.

Thanks CC, but I'll continue with the mostly-repair aspirations for another while

nomdeboardie

doozerie wrote: »

Are you using sandpaper to roughen the surface area of the tube where you are applying the glue?

This works for me:
* Use sandpaper to rough up a slightly larger area than the patch will cover.
* Apply glue, smear it round with my finger to try to achieve a consistent thickness over the entire area.
* When glue is dry to the touch apply the patch. Push hard on the centre of the patch and work outwards to the edges, pressing down hard as you go.
* Leave it a couple of minutes before inflating the tube, otherwise the edges of the patch may pull away as the tube stretches.

I haven't used that particular repair kit but I suspect the glue doesn't vary much if at all between the various brands. And I've had success with various type of patches from multiple brands.

Thanks. Yes - doing all that, except maybe the middle-outwards pressure - might have done that in the past, but the awkward wrap-around of the patch in this case constrained things.