the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

nomdeboardie

doozerie wrote: »

I really don't think that butyl tubes biodegrade quickly. If they biodegrade it all I expect it's measured in tens of years at a minimum (and I may well be out by a factor of 10, or 10 to the power of 10).

I believe that latex tubes break down more quickly, but still not "quick" by any definition of that word that I recognise.

magicbastarder wrote: »

my garden pond is lined with butyl rubber. above or below the waterline, i believe it generally has a stated lifespan of 20 years, and that's a functional one regarding being a usable pond liner, and not an actual lifespan before it completely degrades.
if it has a 20 year usable lifespan, i suspect the actual biodegradability is measured in centuries; albeit with the caveat that it's clearly not toxic as a rubber product.

as i posted here last year, i bought a bike with an intact and functional dunlop inner tube made in ireland and i think it was 8valve who pointed out that dunlop closed their factory in ireland in 1984.

Deleted User wrote: »

In Drogheda there is a factory that used to make perfume that now recycles tyres / rubber, so when you ride by you get the smell of rubber on one side mixed with the smell of coconut creams on the other from the biscuit factory but when the tyre place first started up you got a sickly smell of rubber and stale perfume.

And this is how I'm saving the world

Brian?

nomdeboardie wrote: »

And this is how I'm saving the world

Seems I was wrong. Good for you my eco warrior amigo.

CramCycle

Deleted User wrote: »

We're getting into half life territory here now.

Yes Dr. Freeman

Seth Brundle

Brian? wrote: »

Take off the cable and chain. Wd40 the spring in the derailleur and move the derailleur back and forward by hand a load of times. You should feel it free up.


If it's already free and easy by hand. There is something broken and it needs to be replaced

Bingo, thanks (& to MB also).

Brian?

Seth Brundle wrote: »

Bingo, thanks (& to MB also).

It loosened up nicely with some WD40 and a bit of wiggling?

Seth Brundle

Brian? wrote: »

It loosened up nicely with some WD40 and a bit of wiggling?

It did eventually
Just have to adjust it. Not getting a decent break inbetween online work meetings

MangleBadger

I haven't found an answer to this. If gear ratios match, is there any difference in being in the big ring versus the small ring?

07Lapierre

MangleBadger wrote: »

I haven't found an answer to this. If gear ratios match, is there any difference in being in the big ring versus the small ring?

Yes. Your better off in the big ring if possible, as there there is less friction/resistance on the chain compared to the small chainring. will you notice the difference while cycling? probably not.

Pro riders usually put larger chainrings on their TT bikes...not to go faster but because it gives a straighter chainline (less friction) and they can use larger rear sprockets.
There is also a trend towards larger/oversize jockey wheels on derailleurs too.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/ceramicspeed-oversized-pulley-wheel-system-10?lang=en&curr=EUR&dest=6&sku=100281986&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI59Kk8Yf-8AIVKe_tCh2zoAA-EAQYASABEgICnfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Brian?

Brian? wrote: »

I throw the tubes out and put in new ones. For the amount of punctures I get it's not worth my time repairing them.

I haven't had a puncture in over a year, at a guess.

Talk about tempting fate. I got my first puncture this year on the way home!!

Jeremy Sproket

CramCycle wrote: »

There is nothing wrong with Halfords bikes, but to be clear, you didn't see a good road bike in Halfords for €250. You seen a superficially decent road bike for €250. It will however get you from A to B and for short distances be grand in the short term.
If you want a decent road bike and halfords is your only option, you will need to boost the budget a bit.

Thanks Cram.. I wouldn't know a good bike from a bad if it sailed through a red light* and hit me. I just want something to jaunt around on in the fair weather, yes I'm one of those fair weather cyclists.






* I kid, I kid.

nomdeboardie

Brian? wrote: »

Talk about tempting fate. I got my first puncture this year on the way home!!

This little fella may not be around for much longer (different emoji menu when boards migrates to a new platform), so for that reason, and that reason alone...

:pac::pac::pac:

magicbastarder

my bike has started making an intermittent loud ticking noise under load, e.g. pulling away from lights or while climbing, seated or standing. am not looking forward to having to troubleshoot this.

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

my bike has started making an intermittent loud ticking noise under load, e.g. pulling away from lights or while climbing, seated or standing. am not looking forward to having to troubleshoot this.

My money is on wheel or freehub bearings.

magicbastarder

any quick tests for that, do you know? i have zondas on it.

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

any quick tests for that, do you know? i have zondas on it.

Do you have another pair of wheels? Swap them and see if the clicking goes away.

If you don’t have spare wheels, remove the cassette and inspect the bearings visually. It’s most likely the outer most freehub bearing.

nicksnikita

magicbastarder wrote: »

my bike has started making an intermittent loud ticking noise under load, e.g. pulling away from lights or while climbing, seated or standing. am not looking forward to having to troubleshoot this.

Disc or rim?

magicbastarder

i have a spare pair of aksiums i can use; good call, cheers.

edit: rim brakes.

Brian?

07Lapierre wrote: »

My money is on wheel or freehub bearings.

My money is on phase 1 of bb failure

magicbastarder

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

nicksnikita

magicbastarder wrote: »

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

Make sure the QR skewers are fully engaged on the dropouts.
Also make sure the QR have a light coating of grease on any metal/metal contact points. This was causing a creak under load on my road bike for weeks until I got rid of it last week.

Brian?

magicbastarder wrote: »

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

My own BB just went from phase 1(What's that clicking sound) to phase 2 (I think my BB is going, that's a lot of clicking).

I'm dreading taking it out. I bought the bike last summer, no idea of the history. It's a steel frame from the mid 90s. I foresee some cursing ahead.

nicksnikita

Brian? wrote: »

My own BB just went from phase 1(What's that clicking sound) to phase 2 (I think my BB is going, that's a lot of clicking).

I'm dreading taking it out. I bought the bike last summer, no idea of the history. It's a steel frame from the mid 90s. I foresee some cursing ahead.

I had to get my old man and a 12 foot pipe (literally) recently to help with removal of a sq-taper bb.
Worst I’d seen

Rechuchote

Jeremy Sproket wrote: »

Thanks Cram.. I wouldn't know a good bike from a bad if [deleted for delicacy]*. I just want something to jaunt around on in the fair weather, yes I'm one of those fair weather cyclists.

*also kid

A good bike is light** but strong, with the right frame size*** for you, and set up right in terms of where the saddle and handlebars are set; depending on your taste it can be sit-up-and-beg with hub gears or none, or require a bendy-overy stance. When you're sitting on the saddle and holding the handlebars with the ball of your foot (behind the toes) on the pedal at its lowest, your knee should be a little bent. To my mind you should be able to leap down in an emergency without risk to your manhood, but again that's a matter of taste.

Now everyone can start fighting over this.

**Preferably not heavier than 14kg, in my opinion

*** https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/how-to-measure-a-bike-frame-our-complete-guide-to-sizing-a-bike/

Brian?

nicksnikita wrote: »

I had to get my old man and a 12 foot pipe (literally) recently to help with removal of a sq-taper bb.
Worst I’d seen

I’m doing the lottery tonight. I went to take off the BB and that was actually loose. It hadn’t been installed properly, so I tightened it up and it’s smooth as butter.

Damaged a rim on the front wheel of a road bike with an interaction with a kerb

Wheel that came with the bike - lower-end fulcrum model so not a valuable wheel

Have seen videos of people using an adjustable spanner to bend it out or would I be likely to make a balls of it?

Any idea how much a repair might be?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg4ZFruCfSg

Type 17

Use an adjustable spanner - go very gently and reposition often and keep looking after every ‘bite’. (Measure twice, bite once is the method). Aim for a little bulge which you can smooth down with a file or some sandpaper and a narrow block.

magicbastarder

glasso wrote: »

Have seen videos of people using an adjustable spanner to bend it out or would I be likely to make a balls of it?

i suspect you tackling it would not be using tactics much different from a bike shop tackling it.

velo.2010

Recently noticed that my (I guess) leggings have worn away the clearcoat on the side of the top tube. Not a big deal but just to protect the carbon I might have a look a DIY repair. Anyone anything to add to the following steps gleaned from Youtube et al.

Mask off area.
Clean/prep
Wet/dry sanding
Apply clearcoat/lacquer
Sand excess(going up in grit)
Polish

magicbastarder

my first reaction is what is up with your positioning that you've managed to wear away the top coat of the frame with your leg!