the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Weepsie

I've got my first set of hydraulic brakes/shifters, however, they are set up continental style, and one needs to be routed internally.

How messy a job is it disconnecting them from the caliper or shifter and routing it through? I feel like it's one for the LBS, but would like to have some of it done before bringing it there, though won't be much as I cant remove the pressfit BB nor, can I fit the replacement

Weepsie

Weepsie wrote: »

I've got my first set of hydraulic brakes/shifters, however, they are set up continental style, and one needs to be routed internally.

How messy a job is it disconnecting them from the caliper or shifter and routing it through? I feel like it's one for the LBS, but would like to have some of it done before bringing it there, though won't be much as I cant remove the pressfit BB nor, can I fit the replacement

How does the rear hosing route though the frame, is it from a hole on the right side? Might leave it a little on the short side if you move it to the left break perhaps?

Weepsie

[Deleted User] wrote: »

How does the rear hosing route though the frame, is it from a hole on the right side? Might leave it a little on the short side if you move it to the left break perhaps?

Yup, there's a hole in the frame for it to pass through. It's from a bigger frame so I should be okay(I hope)

Weepsie

So switching hoses around while theyre off the bike was mostly trouble free. I say mostly as I didn't prepare for the likelihood of the reservoir spilling out brake fluid when I removed the covers.

Anyway, I think the rear will be fine to be cut, but the front one might now be too short.

Anyone know if you can get a junction/connector thing for SRAM hydraulic cables. I know you can for Shimano, but not sure about SRAM

A connectamajig or stealthamajig I think it's called if it's the part I think you're talking about.

Weepsie

[Deleted User] wrote: »

A connectamajig or stealthamajig I think it's called if it's the part I think you're talking about.

Looks about right. Cheers

Paul Kiernan

Weepsie wrote: »

So switching hoses around while theyre off the bike was mostly trouble free. I say mostly as I didn't prepare for the likelihood of the reservoir spilling out brake fluid when I removed the covers.

Anyway, I think the rear will be fine to be cut, but the front one might now be too short.

Anyone know if you can get a junction/connector thing for SRAM hydraulic cables. I know you can for Shimano, but not sure about SRAM

I'm in the same boat having just bought a bike from nilhg which is the wrong way round (or the right way round if you're nilhg!).

Bear in mind that if you cut the cable you'll have to refit the cable insert which is a bastard to get in. I also imagine you'll have to get a bleed kit and add fluid. AFAIK if the cables are fitted with the connectamajigs you can swap them around without needing to cut anything or re-bleed. However you wont get the cables through an internally routed frame in that case.

1971bsb

Can anyone reccomend good YouTube videos for setting up SRAM Red and Force groupsets - manual, not electronic. Thanks in advance.

g0g

Is there an easy idiot-proof way to slightly tighten the bite point on hydraulic disc brakes? Shimano ST-7020. Bike is fairly new but I've been doing a lot of descending steep enough slopes on the brakes. Feels like to fully squeeze the brakes the lever is pretty much touching my bar tape. I saw something online about removing wheel and trying to advance the pads or something but that sounds messy. There's no simple minor adjustment screw thing somewhere I haven't spotted is there?

crumliniano

Does anyone know how to loosen campagnolo brake calipers so they will open wider? I can't find any youtube videos on this. I have new wheels and the chorus calipers with new brake pads are too tight, the wheel won't even rotate. I've released the cable fully and adjusted the barrel adjusters but they just don't open enough.

07Lapierre

crumliniano wrote: »

Does anyone know how to loosen campagnolo brake calipers so they will open wider? I can't find any youtube videos on this. I have new wheels and the chorus calipers with new brake pads are too tight, the wheel won't even rotate. I've released the cable fully and adjusted the barrel adjusters but they just don't open enough.

You do it by pushing the pin on the brake lever.

https://youtu.be/4AU8aOlfXU4

crumliniano

07Lapierre wrote: »

You do it by pushing the pin on the brake lever.

https://youtu.be/4AU8aOlfXU4

Thanks o7Lapierre. I'm familiar with the quick release pin alright. That opens the calipers wider for dropping out the wheels - give a few mm extra clearance to get around the tyre. In this case it is so tight that it is tight against the rim (braking surface). I need it to open out further.

07Lapierre

crumliniano wrote: »

Thanks o7Lapierre. I'm familiar with the quick release pin alright. That opens the calipers wider for dropping out the wheels - give a few mm extra clearance to get around the tyre. In this case it is so tight that it is tight against the rim (braking surface). I need it to open out further.

When you disconnect the brake cable, does the caliper open wider?

crumliniano

07Lapierre wrote: »

When you disconnect the brake cable, does the caliper open wider?

No not wide enough. Still clenched on the braking surface

07Lapierre

That’s unusual. Maybe post a photo or two? Is it possible the caliper needs to be disassembled, cleaned, greased and reassembled?

How wide are your wheel rims?

crumliniano

FWIW I figured a hack - I removed the washers between the caliper arm and the brake block. Gave me just enough clearance.

Wildly Boaring

Alright folks.

My bike is on the go a couple years. Done at least 5000km.

Outside of cleaning it, replacing pad, keeping the gears indexed and brakes right.

What else should I be doing?
I lube any moving parts: derailleurs, brakes, pedals.

Do i need to grease the head?
I've replaced 1 brake cable, rest seem good.

magicbastarder

yeah, cleaning the headset would be a good idea. do you occasionally take out the seatpost, clean and regrease/repaste it?

07Lapierre

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Alright folks.

My bike is on the go a couple years. Done at least 5000km.

Outside of cleaning it, replacing pad, keeping the gears indexed and brakes right.

What else should I be doing?
I lube any moving parts: derailleurs, brakes, pedals.

Do i need to grease the head?
I've replaced 1 brake cable, rest seem good.

Gear shift cables...I'd replace those,as they tend to fray inside the shifters. If they do, getting the cables out of the shifters can be a pain. I'd replace the complete cables (inner and outer casing).
What about brake pads and tyres?

Wildly Boaring

magicbastarder wrote: »

yeah, cleaning the headset would be a good idea. do you occasionally take out the seatpost, clean and regrease/repaste it?

Ah yeah. Seatpost comes out any time the bike goes in the wife's car.

Wildly Boaring

07Lapierre wrote: »

Gear shift cables...I'd replace those,as they tend to fray inside the shifters. If they do, getting the cables out of the shifters can be a pain. I'd replace the complete cables (inner and outer casing).
What about brake pads and tyres?

Tyres are good. Although got my first puncture in 4 years the other day.
Has new pads lately.

Shifter cables probably a good shout

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Tyres are good. Although got my first puncture in 4 years the other day.
Has new pads lately.

Shifter cables probably a good shout

I’d recommend taking the rear up apart and greasing the wee thangs (the name escapes me now). As someone else said, clean and grease the headset bearing.

I would replace consumables like cables or pad unless they show wear.

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

I’d recommend taking the rear up apart and greasing the wee thangs.

The rear up?

cletus

I'm going to guess he's talking about the rear derailleur and jockey wheels

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

The rear up?

Rear hub. Sorry, auto correct

cletus

Brian? wrote: »

Rear hub. Sorry, auto correct

Ok, so adjusting my guess, the thingamajigs are the pawls

Brian?

cletus wrote: »

Ok, so adjusting my guess, the thingamajigs are the pawls

That’s the wee thangs alright.

Wildly Boaring

Cheers lads
Now I'm afraid this one is beyond my experience

Are we talking about opening up the rear hub altogether?

cletus

You could, it's not overly complicated, but beware of the not so old phrase, "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is"

magicbastarder

you'll need a special cassette removal tool to do that.