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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭tdf7187


    Yeah had a feeling it would be. They are both good locks. (Fortunately I have another Kryptonite, a real heavy duty one, so I can live with losing the locks). Thanks anyway.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭tdf7187


    The more I think about it the less comfortable I am with using an angle grinder myself. I lack suitable PPE and I just wouldn't be comfortable using the thing even if I did have the PPE.

    Cost of cheapest angle grinder Woodies have plus 10 metre extension lead is €70 or so. If any kind boardsie can assist me, has an angle grinder and is comfortable using it, I will pay you that amount. As per previous post I am in Leopardstown (near the M50 and Stillorgan Dual Carriageway). I have no car so you would have to come to me, I would not be in a position to collect you and drop you home. I can show proof of bike purchase, proof of identity and address etc as proof of my bona fides.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,613 ✭✭✭MerlinSouthDub


    Hopefully someone can help you out. I would try ringing a few locksmiths. It mightn't be crazy expensive, it's a real quick job for someone who knows what they are doing. I had to get it done myself on a bike when a key broke in the lock. It was a few years ago and I don't remember the cost but I would remember it if it was a real wallet killer!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭tdf7187


    Yeah good idea will ring around a few in the morning.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭tdf7187


    Job done. Locksmith cost 70. Not too bad.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,889 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Locksmith to the rescue!





  • Registered Users Posts: 1,194 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    KMC X9, 2nd chain on the cassette, it's worn beyond .5%, I wanted to use it up to .75%. Today I discovered that one of the outer link has a crack as it'd been cut with scissors from the middle straight to the pin. I've never had this failure before. Is it normal for the chain to end up like this?

    I look after my chains, while I'm no OCD, I don't neglect them either.

    I put on an old but still a good chain as a longer spin coming up tomorrow. I guess it's new chain time after that, than a new cassette.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,246 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    What are the chances of going from an 11-28 cassette to an 11-30 without needing to change chain?

    I've a bike that I swap from turbo to outdoors from time to time and with the price of cassettes recently I'd love to avoid buying a new one. It's running an 11-28 at the moment, and all I have in the parts box is 11-30 or 11-32. I know it won't work with the 11-32, but any chance on an 11-30?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you don't 'need' to change chain in the sense that you won't do any damage as long as you don't go large-large (assuming that the chain is already set up at the correct length)

    the proper length of a chain should accomodate that (toe-curling) gearing to prevent damage, but if you're confident you can avoid it, you should be fine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Is there a list of steel frame builders/repairs around the Dublin/Meath/Kildare area?

    Steel steed took a knock back in May, and the chainstay on the drivetrain side took damage/bent inward, so the crankarm hits the chain at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

    By the looks of it I'd say it's a 50/50 on whether it can be repaired, stress fractures, being such a slim/narrow bit of tubing, but would like to know for certain whether it can be fixed or if I'll be investing in a new frame.



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder



    Based in Naas - don't know if he does repair though.



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,571 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,672 ✭✭✭DeepBlue


    On a road bike I have if I lift the front wheel off the ground by the handlebars and then spin the wheel I can feel quite a bit of rough vibration coming up through the handlebars. I assume this is the wheel bearings and they need replacing?



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,370 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Is it quick release? You should be able to repeat this with the wheel off the bike which will give you a more direct idea of whether the bearings are graunchy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,672 ✭✭✭DeepBlue


    Yes, it's quick release. When I take the wheel off and hold it in my hands and spin it (not easy 😄) the hub tends to move with the wheel and no vibrations. If I hold the hub steady with a finger then the rotation feels very rough.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I suspect you need new bearings.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,392 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Thru Axel to QR adapters... Do they actually work as a reasonable long term solution? Looking at future proofing a dynohub purchase (if that makes a difference).



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 ss573


    I am in my first month of riding gear bikes and I am also doing the same in the flats. On my bike (image attached), I have 3 gears in front chain wheel and 7 gears in rear chain wheel. As I go from 1 to 3 in the front and from 1 to 7 in the rear, it does get harder to pedal. But on the flats I get most speed when I am on F-3, R-7 gear. Is this not efficient? Which gear should I choose to ride in the flats?





  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    It’s not about a specific gear, it’s about finding the right gear every time.


    It’s all about how many RPM you spin the pedals at. If you are in a gear that you can’t spin at 90 rpm, you change down. If you’re in a gear that’s too easy to spin, you change up. You find that sweet spot and you’ll find cycling a hell of a lot more pleasurable and you’ll be more efficient


    I can’t see your drive chain in that picture, so I’ve no idea what gear you’re pushing. It’s based on the number of teeth on the front chain ring and cassette.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,297 ✭✭✭secman


    It's a bit like knowing when to change gear when driving, it's all to do with conditions at the time, gradient of road, headwind, tailwind, not to be grinding nor spinning excessively. I suspect with your bike you run out of gears when you have very good momentum and as you get fitter. That's to do with the type of bike it is and it's intended use and purpose. Find the sweet spot as alluded to in previous post and most importantly enjoy 😉



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I'm always wary of using the phrases 'changing up' or 'changing down' because it's easy to interpret them differently depending on whether you are referring to the front or rear derailleur. I usually say high or low gear in the same manner you would for a car - low means good for pulling away from lights out going up hills, high gears for when going fast on straights or downhills.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 ss573


    How can I know about how many RPMs I am doing?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    I get you, but I’m so used to using it I never questioned it.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    You can get a cadence sensor and a bike computer.


    but without that, you try by feel. You shouldn’t be pushing the pedals really, you should be spinning them. It should feel easy. But not too easy.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    I’d also like to give you a warning on your saddle height. It’s almost at its lowest, so I suspect it’s too low. It’s a very common mistake beginners make.

    https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/fitness-and-training/how-to-get-your-bike-saddle-height-right/

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    A basic way would be just to count each full rotation. Once per second would be too slow, twice per second too fast so aim for a happy medium between them.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 ss573


    Yeah, I got my saddle height to the lowest point by asking the bike shop. I was learning how to ride bikes at that point and I was very worried that I might fall if my feet don't reach the ground.

    If I keep the saddle higher than this and my feet don't reach ground when I stop, how should I balance myself?

    Btw thank you for your help :)



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    You slid off the saddle forwards and put your feet on the ground


    You’re welcome

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




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  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,571 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    If you're sitting on the saddle and able to touch the ground then the distance between the pedals and the saddle is not sufficient and you'll end up with knee and other joints suffering.



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