the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Nigzcurran

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117910587#Comment_117910587

Would this be for all bikes or just road bikes?

Seth Brundle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117910769#Comment_117910769

I think it is for all. It is to do with the angle or movement of the knees as you're pedalling.

https://heidenortho.com/4-reasons-knee-pain-cycling/

https://cyclinguphill.com/correct-saddle-height-knee-pain/

cletus

Mountain biking might be the exception, but even then only for descents. Hence the reason for dropper posts

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117910587#Comment_117910587

You sure? You should be able to stop on the bike and reach the ground with your toes (on one side) IIRC.

cletus

I can put a foot down on either side, but not both at the same time (well maybe tippy toes), but I definitely couldn't stand on both feet with my arse on the saddle

Seth Brundle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117911372#Comment_117911372

You're probably tilting the bike and not sitting on the saddle?

CormacH94

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117880250#Comment_117880250

Thanks for this - does anyone know what the story is with contacting this place? Email sent a week ago, no reply - multiple phone calls that aren't answered, no address on the fb page or website? Very hard to get in contact with.

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117911372#Comment_117911372

Not staying perfectly upright in the saddle.

stevencn88

Rear 105 shifter seems to be making an odd "rattling" noise as if something is loose. Anyone have experience with something similar? Shifts perfectly and seems soild in place.

ss573

My knee angle at 5'o clock

My back foot height at its top

Should I increase the saddle height? Also I would appreciate any advice on correct posture. I am very new to riding.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117910543#Comment_117910543

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117913213#Comment_117913213

Increase your saddle height.

It also looks like you have your mid foot on the pedal and not the ball of your foot.

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117909946#Comment_117909946

This video will help you understand what gear you should be using...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clnNCsv4Phc

Roadtoad

The rear wheel 700mm (Shimano 7 speed cassette) on the kid's beater bike died.

The bike is close to end-of-life, but perhaps not there yet.

If I get a new wheel, will it accept the present cassette, AND in due course become a useful spare for the other Shimano rear wheels the family has?

If not, I'll let the whole thing die now!

Coomkeen

New on this board.

Bit of a puzzle how to navigate, so please excuse if I'm in the wrong place.

I'm renovating a friend and neighbour's bike, and have put a new bottom bracket bearing in, a sealed one same as came out, and new crankset.

These two from here...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09BZFZTR4/ref=pe_27063361_487055811_TE_dp_1

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/142137264556

The drive side went on fine.

The left side will only go on about half way. Is this normal? Will I have to follow her about with an Allen key to keep tightening it up? 😂

All suggestions welcome.

Ron

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117945628#Comment_117945628

my first guess is you’ve cross threaded it. The thread is very fine. It should go in by hand almost all the way.

Take it off and inspect the threads, if they are ok then clean and grease the shell before trying again.

Coomkeen

Sorry if I wasn't clear enough.

The BB bearing assembly itself goes in fine. Smooth all the way. Right hand thread on the drive side, and the locking ring left hand thread on the left side.

All nice and smooth.

It's when I put the pedals on that it looks wrong.

On the drive side the BB shaft comes out to within, probably, a couple of mm of the bottom of the hole in the pedal.

On the left side though there's a big gap between the pedal and the BB. Maybe that's how it should be, but it doesn't seem right.

Of course on the drive side that gap is masked from sight by the chain wheels.

Paul Kiernan

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117912726#Comment_117912726

Is it hydraulic? The 105's tend to buzz due to lack of tension from the brake cable! Does it stop when you grasp or put a bit of pressure on the lever? It's annoying but probably nothing wrong.

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946046#Comment_117946046

Ah right. You’re much better off than I thought.

The shaft you’re attaching the crank arm to is tapered (the pedal attaches to said arm). So if you tighten the bolt with appropriate gumption it’ll sit home on the shaft. Should move it a little. If proper gumption has been applied, you don’t have to muller it on, you’re in business and it should be fine.

Even though the taper should always be the same, it isn’t.

Coomkeen

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946472#Comment_117946472

Yep, tapered ends to the shaft.

Always seemed daft to me, from an engineering perspective.

"Even though the taper should always be the same, it isn’t."

Think that may be what it is. Don't like forcing a taper in too hard 'cos of getting it out again 😂

But guess in this case I just have to 'go for it'.

magicbastarder

just make sure it's greased beforehand. or it could seize.

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946653#Comment_117946653

Yeah. I can’t give any better advice than:

tighten it until it’s tight. Don’t go mad on it.

light bit of grease.

stevencn88

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946188#Comment_117946188

No it's mechanical. Works perfectly so I figured it wasn't anything serious, but every so slightly irritating alright.

magicbastarder

i have something vaguely similar - my left shifter (ultegra 6800, 3 years old) makes a faint high pitched rattle/buzz when cycling on rough roads; i checked and there's no slack in the brake cable, but was also told that there are some plastic coverings inside which can come ever sol slightly loose and rattle - and they're not really user serviceable.

i was also told there was not a hope of getting a replacement unless i go secondhand, so to get used to it...

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117945144#Comment_117945144

might be best if you take the wheel off and take a photo of the cassette - as i believe 7 speed was also available as a freewheel rather than a cassette, so i'm not sure what configuration the wheel would be?

Wildly Boaring

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117947263#Comment_117947263

Mine are mechanical too.

Got the same issue before. Turned out there was a rub on a brake cable and it was damaged just where it went into the frame. Meant it wasn't retracting totally. Caused the little vibration

magicbastarder

was there any noticeable slack in the brake lever action, as it took up the slack in the cable before engaging?

i keep long fingering stripping the brake cables back to see if that's a cause for me.

Tombo2001

Can I use a 33/37 tyre inside a 32 tube?

Thanks.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117955164#Comment_117955164

I presume you mean that the other way round, a 33/37 tube in a 32 tyre. Should be no issue

wersal gummage

Mudguard question if anyone has any input I'd be grateful.

Have full length mudguards on the bike, steel or aluminium or something sturdy anyway.

I have had problems almost since day one with the little connectors that attach the stays to the mudguards, they are fiddly and constantly coming off, have them tightened properly etc.. See photo, after hitting a fairly solid pot hole a few days ago (couldn't avoid due to traffic right alongside unfortunately) has popped off again.

Anyway, is there an alternative way to fix the mudguards to the bike? I've seen portland design works where the stays are sort of inverted and the "V" or "U" part of the stay goes over the top of the guard, fixed on with a little bracket, and the individual ends of the stays are then connected via a tab sort of thing to the eyelet. I like the idea but not sure if I can find stays that will go around my mudguards as thr Portland ones seem a very specific shape, I've seen SKS branded ones too.

Before I go trying that, are there any other ways to attach stays to guards? Really not happy with current set up.

Thanks

20211002_115741.jpg

padyjoe

I got a new bike, to me anyway. I've never seen a tru axle before. Both of them were loose, I felt a play in them, the front is ok now, but a little play remains in the rear. I don't have a torque wrench and don't want to overtighten them. The derailleur side was loose too, tightened the screw, tru axle in and there was a pop midway in, I thought having broken something but not. I'd say, I have check the wheel axle for a play as well.

The old bike has qr levers, they are tight once in.

The other niggle the bb. I don't know why it has been loosened, the preload was not set with the end cap. I'm stuck as I've no Shimano tool to set. There's a movement in the bb (the bike claimed as a low mileage) for sure. It begs for the question why it was touched: it won't get buggered in few hundred kms.

The bike is a 2020 Attain SL 105 disc.

Edit:

The rear axle locknut is loose on the cog side, so the cassette has to come off to get access to it.