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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,506 ✭✭✭hesker


    I’d usually use old diesel or petrol. Of the stuff in your list hexane is the closet to petrol.

    I’d say methanol would do a good job too as it mixes well with water and oily stuff.

    Start off with hexane and finish with acetone. Acetone evaporates quickly so the chain will dry quickly. It also mixes well with hexane and water.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    No idea which solvents would work best, to be fair, but it seemed like an opportune moment to see if there were any bench top power supply units being dumped 😁😁



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Cheers, got a new chain the other day and took a guess, went with degreaser, followed by Methanol and then Acetone. Will do the next clean on my old chain with Hexane, Methanol and then Acetone. Going to use lab grade paraffin for waxing then. The 1 watt for the additives and 10 fold the price are outside my acceptable cost/benefit ratio analysis.



  • Registered Users Posts: 194 ✭✭WOT


    To crack this nut I bought a sledge!

    Picked up this beauty on eBay for a good price and reasonable lead time (+brexit charges etc etc).

    5minutes later and the ID is increased to clear a 27.2 post perfectly.

    It’s available if someone needs. Very satisfying.

    thanks all for your input.




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Excellent @WOT. I think that might be the first time someone followed my advice...ever🤣🤣



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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I was going to ask this in the motorbike forum but I think the question also applies to pedal bikes as like most motorbikes they have chains that need to be looked after.

    In my Haynes manual for the motorbike it recommends cleaning the chain with paraffin although I have heard in America they use kerosene.

    I have tried googling but I am struggling to find anywhere here in Ireland that sells paraffin or kerosene used for cleaning. I'd appreciate if anyone knows a place that sells either or somewhere online where I can get it imported.



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    Home heating oil is kerosene.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,506 ✭✭✭hesker


    A bit of petrol or diesel will do just as well. Just don’t pour it down your drain when finished.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,415 ✭✭✭Rosahane


    Paraffin and kerosene are the much the same thing. Paraffin is a bit more refined and will burn with less smoke so was ideal for lamps and heaters that were used indoors.



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    Wheel issue help needed! I have what looks and feels like a loose cassette. I took the cassette and freewheel off and cleaned and tightened everything but it’s still wobbly. Looking at the freewheel it looks like the bearing closest to the lock nut has too much give in it. Wheel is campagnolo Kamsin. Any ideas?

    https://streamable.com/7ggwuu



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Do you use the front 3 at any point or do you stick mainly to one? This will answer your question. Dependent on the bike but most likely there is a wide spread at the rear and the front is small enough that while you might spin out, you won't struggle to get there in the end. My partners bike has a 1x6 and she can keep pace with me on my fancy bike so the engine is a bigger factor.

    This said, €189 is very cheap, the gears would not be my first concern, make sure to keep your receipt and that you are happy it is in good working order before leaving the shop.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Compare the gearing then is your best bet, what is the size of the largest and smallest chainrings on the front and cogs on the back of your current bike, and then check what it is on the bike you are looking at. More concerning will be the comparison of the small front and large back as this will be your lowest gear, if thats OK, then you will definelty get around.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Its not as complicated as it sounds, count the teeth on the largest cog on the back and the smallest one on the front, do the same for the new bike and post the numbers and someone here will tell you is it reasonable.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Or just post a link to the bike of Halfords website



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The Apollo should be lighter as well with alloy frame vs the pig iron



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Very stupid question time.

    What is going to be the limiting factor on wider tyres on my road bike?


    Was 25mm went 28mm and really found an improvement. Thinking new wheels (always thinking new wheels) and 30s.


    Wheels, brakes or frame.

    Cube attain on mavic askiums with 105s.

    https://archiv.cube.eu/en/2018/177100



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    what sort of clearance can you currently see on it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Looks enough on the frame.

    So will the brake calipers get past, not really sure they will without dismantling every time.?


    Will a normal wheel take a 30mm clincher or do I need a wider wheel?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    And by dismantling I mean. Letting off the cable 🤣



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  • Registered Users Posts: 586 ✭✭✭ARX


    Shimano quote a maximum tyre width of 28 mm for those brakes: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/105-5800/BR-5800.html

    Don't forget that wider tyres are also taller, so vertical clearance rather than horizontal clearance may be the limiting factor.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I think Shimano state 28mm limit for the standard 105 brakes, though Shimano have a reputation for being conservative, so not sure. I suspect the (somewhat useless) answer to your question is "it depends", though to render it a bit more useful - frame clearance will be your major issiue. My old Specialized supposedly took 28s but I ran Conti 4 Season 25s for the most part and there wasn't much space (though I think these do come up slightly bigger than stated) Wheel width (internal) can make a big difference on tire profile as well.

    Could you get your hands on a 30 (even a well used one would probably do) and try it on for clearance before you make the leap?



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    Looks like the Khamsin shimano free hub has cartridge bearings. I think is a few of these need replacing. Are they standard size and easy enough to do yourself?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    I took a couple shimano freehubs apart in the last year.

    Very standard cartridge bearings 6000 RS and 6007 RS

    Be written on the side of them anyway



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    No. Hard to get apart, and I damaged a bearing getting it out. But ok going in. Can't remember but I'd have given a bit of timber a light tap if necessary



  • Registered Users Posts: 569 ✭✭✭jonnybravo


    Hi. After two years of my commuting bike parked up I'm heading back to the office and one my hydraulic brakes isn't working (brakes are Shimano BR-M315, Hydr. Disc Brake). Any idea what would be causing this? Would bleeding it and refilling the fluid fix the issue? I've never done this before but from online tutorials it looks manageable.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    it depends on what you mean by not working. Can you pull the brake lever, does it go all the way to the handlebar, is there any resistance, can you see movement at the caliper?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,785 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Also check are the pads worn, as I learned from experience.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 569 ✭✭✭jonnybravo


    Thanks for coming back to me. I can pull the lever the full way back (no resistance) and the caliper barely moves.



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