the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Miklos

If you're giving it a bit of attention, it's probably only surface rust and should scrub off with a stiff brush and some good degreaser. There is a lot of salt on the roads at the moment which could be a contributing factor.

68 lost souls

68 lost souls wrote: »

The adjuster where the brake cable is bent so won’t screw in further than it is. Will any of these adjusters fit from another series or does anyone know where I can get the correct repayment part?

They are from a 2013 trek madone 2.1. They are a Shimano off series not sure what model. The rest of the bike was 105 but crankset, cassette and brake callipers were not.

I guess thats a negative on anyone knowing where I might get a replacement to fit or whether a different series one would fit?

I might try and get to the LBS and see if they have anything that would work.

site_owner

some proper stupid questions

i have a bar end mirror to install, but the grip on my handlebar is rubber covering the hole.
is it ok to cut the grip or do i need a different one?

one of my pedals is sliding left and right a few mm, theres a plug on one that isnt on the other, is there anyhting to stop the lateral movement? (mountain bike type pedals)

my rear brake disc seems to be 6-bolt but it is held on with a center lock (based on what i have figured out) i want to replace the disc, but is there a way to check if my wheel has been adapted before i buy the wrong thing.

the front wheel is 6 bolt, when fitting 6 bolt discs, will tightening in a criss-cross type pattern keep the disc aligned or is there more to it?

thanks!

padyjoe

My rear Durano is nearing it's end of life. I have few spots on the thread where I can see the carcass.
Am I right I have no puncture protection in those spots anymore?
Would you get more out of this tyre or change it? I don't feel anything funny happening on the rear yet. I don't want to take risks, especially on a descent.

Cee-Jay-Cee

padyjoe wrote: »

My rear Durano is nearing it's end of life. I have few spots on the thread where I can see the carcass.
Am I right I have no puncture protection in those spots anymore?
Would you get more out of this tyre or change it? I don't feel anything funny happening on the rear yet. I don't want to take risks, especially on a descent.

If you can see the carcass then the tyres is dead and should be replaced.

magicbastarder

site_owner wrote: »

i have a bar end mirror to install, but the grip on my handlebar is rubber covering the hole.
is it ok to cut the grip or do i need a different one?

one of my pedals is sliding left and right a few mm, theres a plug on one that isnt on the other, is there anyhting to stop the lateral movement? (mountain bike type pedals)

i'd cut it.

the missing cap may be incidental, but it could be that the pedals are knackered - if it were me, i'd try stripping the faulty one and attempt to tighten it, with a view to having a replacement on hand quickly enough if it's shagged.

loyatemu

padyjoe wrote: »

My rear Durano is nearing it's end of life. I have few spots on the thread where I can see the carcass.
Am I right I have no puncture protection in those spots anymore?
Would you get more out of this tyre or change it? I don't feel anything funny happening on the rear yet. I don't want to take risks, especially on a descent.

when you say "see the carcass", you mean you can see the lining under the rubber? Then yeah, that tyre is done.

smacl

Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.

padyjoe

loyatemu wrote: »

when you say "see the carcass", you mean you can see the lining under the rubber? Then yeah, that tyre is done.

I see this:

Thanks, lads! I change it for the next spin.

triggermortis

padyjoe wrote: »

I see this:

Thanks, lads! I change it for the next spin.

Definitely beyond its life! Change ASAP.

Miklos

Now that's what I call a dead tyre.

triggermortis

Riding into work this afternoon, and my LH shifter jammed. The smaller lever moved all the way over, but didn't release the cable to move the chain to the smaller ring. The lever then stayed stuck fully over to the side. I fiddled with it at the next set of lights, and it freed up, and changed onto the smaller ring ok. I tried it again, and the same thing happened again. I've managed to get it back again, but am loathe to touch it again as I need to get home on it later.
I've read a little, and the general consensus is to bathe it in WD40. I can definitely try that before I ride home, but am wondering if I need to be looking for a new shifter. (Its Ultegra 6700 btw)

smacl

triggermortis wrote: »

Riding into work this afternoon, and my LH shifter jammed. The smaller lever moved all the way over, but didn't release the cable to move the chain to the smaller ring. The lever then stayed stuck fully over to the side. I fiddled with it at the next set of lights, and it freed up, and changed onto the smaller ring ok. I tried it again, and the same thing happened again. I've managed to get it back again, but am loathe to touch it again as I need to get home on it later.
I've read a little, and the general consensus is to bathe it in WD40. I can definitely try that before I ride home, but am wondering if I need to be looking for a new shifter. (Its Ultegra 6700 btw)

Something similar happened me a few years back, campag xenon shifter, which turned out to be a strand of frayed shift cable jamming the mechanism. Maybe check the cable before ordering a new shifter.

saccades

site_owner wrote: »

my rear brake disc seems to be 6-bolt but it is held on with a center lock (based on what i have figured out) i want to replace the disc, but is there a way to check if my wheel has been adapted before i buy the wrong thing.

the front wheel is 6 bolt, when fitting 6 bolt discs, will tightening in a criss-cross type pattern keep the disc aligned or is there more to it?

thanks!

The 6 bolts will align the disc to the hub, you will probably have to align the caliper to the disc (for width/throw).

As to the first bit - I didn't think it was possible to stick a 6bolt disc onto a centre lock hub, pretty sure you'll have an adapter in there to make it work.

I'd get a bike shop to check, I don't have a bike with an adapter ant more.

triggermortis

smacl wrote: »

Something similar happened me a few years back, campag xenon shifter, which turned out to be a strand of frayed shift cable jamming the mechanism. Maybe check the cable before ordering a new shifter.

Went out to the bike, turned it upside down and blew a load of WD40 into the shifter. It shifted a few times then stuck. Put bike right way up, more WD and all seems good for now... The RH shifter has a spring tension on it, where it will move 1/4" or so with your finger and then spring back once you release. The LH will move, but doesn't spring back, so maybe there is more to this than just a clean out - I'll see.

Definitely no frayed cable in there - just 1/3 can of WD40!

site_owner

saccades wrote: »

The 6 bolts will align the disc to the hub, you will probably have to align the caliper to the disc (for width/throw).

As to the first bit - I didn't think it was possible to stick a 6bolt disc onto a centre lock hub, pretty sure you'll have an adapter in there to make it work.

I'd get a bike shop to check, I don't have a bike with an adapter ant more.

Thanks!
Is aligning the camper straightforward or need any special tools?

site_owner

magicbastarder wrote: »

i'd cut it.

the missing cap may be incidental, but it could be that the pedals are knackered - if it were me, i'd try stripping the faulty one and attempt to tighten it, with a view to having a replacement on hand quickly enough if it's shagged.

Cheers, the pedals are only a few weeks old, so I'll get onto CRC and see if warranty covers it

Type 17

smacl wrote: »

Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.

Yes, you can convert a square taper BB to Hollowtech, once you take account of the thread standard, shell-width etc (which you have done).

John Hutton

smacl wrote: »

Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s110p0/Parts-and-Accessories/Components-Gears-Bottom-Brackets

See there

smacl

Type 17 wrote: »

Yes, you can convert a square taper BB to Hollowtech, once you take account of the thread standard, shell-width etc (which you have done).

Thought so, have the new crankset ordered up along with a couple of necessary tools.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s110...ottom-Brackets

See there

Cheers, unfortunately the main bit that needs replacing is one of the crank arms, due to stripped threads, rather than just the BB. Do like SPA though and probably could have used one of their square taper cranks on the existing BB as an alternative to what I went for.

Peter T

Have you tried putting epoxy metal on the damaged threads and then threading in your pedal ? A family member did this with his bike and it hasn't budged since

CramCycle

smacl wrote: »

Thought so, have the new crankset ordered up along with a couple of necessary tools.



Cheers, unfortunately the main bit that needs replacing is one of the crank arms, due to stripped threads, rather than just the BB. Do like SPA though and probably could have used one of their square taper cranks on the existing BB as an alternative to what I went for.

You can get the crank arms retaped, I got mine plugged and taped before in CSS for about 20 or 30 quid. simple job. It will come with a caveat that the threads will never be as strong as before

smacl

CramCycle wrote: »

You can get the crank arms retaped, I got mine plugged and taped before in CSS for about 20 or 30 quid. simple job. It will come with a caveat that the threads will never be as strong as before

To be fair, bike is used primarily for light off-roading these days and could also do with new chain rings at this point too. Also picked up new jockey wheels and chain in the order and have a reasonably new cassette, so basically an overdue drive train refresh in addition to the cranks.

saccades

site_owner wrote: »

Thanks!
Is aligning the camper straightforward or need any special tools?

Loosen the bolts holding the caliper, insert the wheel with disc correctly in the fork tabs (and disc between the brake pads, might have to push them back in with a flat head screwdriver).

Squeeze the brake lever so the pads clamp the disc, nip up the caliper bolts to the correct torque. Release the brake lever.

Weepsie

aargh, trying to change the chainrings on 105 chainset and I think the previous owner may have used loctite or something as they are welded on and. Stuck for ideas here

Scratch that. 2 of the bolts are stripped though so can't get the hex key to do anything!!

Thud

Weepsie wrote: »

Scratch that. 2 of the bolts are stripped though so can't get the hex key to do anything!!

If you have a torx key of a similar size it can sometimes work/catch on stripped hex bolts, can ruin the torx key too though

Weepsie

Problem was that it looked like it required a torx key, but it in fact needed a hex key. So in using the torx key I stripped it a little. Or it was one that could possibly use both, as beyong the torx key it was machined for a hex. So 2 eventually came out, and 2 got stripped, 1 badly.

LBS is going to try and get it off, but my chainrings may not be usable. It's 5800 chainset, so it's not a straightforward job of drilling it off as other chainsets would allow.

triggermortis

Weepsie wrote: »

Problem was that it looked like it required a torx key, but it in fact needed a hex key. So in using the torx key I stripped it a little. Or it was one that could possibly use both, as beyong the torx key it was machined for a hex. So 2 eventually came out, and 2 got stripped, 1 badly.

LBS is going to try and get it off, but my chainrings may not be usable. It's 5800 chainset, so it's not a straightforward job of drilling it off as other chainsets would allow.

A descent ezy- out is the best bet for this. I have a set of snap on ones that will get them out. If you’re about this afternoon I’ll be in work and I’ll do it for you. Or you can borrow them if you’d rather do it yourself

Weepsie

triggermortis wrote: »

A descent ezy- out is the best bet for this. I have a set of snap on ones that will get them out. If you’re about this afternoon I’ll be in work and I’ll do it for you. Or you can borrow them if you’d rather do it yourself

I'd have take that offer but it's in the lbs now. Going to call up to them now to see if they've had success. Might add one to the tool kit if you can recommend one.

triggermortis

Weepsie wrote: »

I'd have take that offer but it's in the lbs now. Going to call up to them now to see if they've had success. Might add one to the tool kit if you can recommend one.

There’s not one size for all, they come as a set for different sized screws. You can get a small set in places like halfords and they kind of look like drill bits, but I have found that the snap on ones are the best as they have basically a nut fixed to one end to get better leverage by using a spanner. They also last longer and are less likely to break. The set I have is part number REX10B, but you can buy each one separately as needed