Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Options
13839414344211

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,484 ✭✭✭Fighting Tao


    cletus wrote: »
    I may be new to the cycling thing, but the answer to "should I buy a new tool?" is "always"

    Obviously a new bike is needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Obviously a new bike is needed.

    Hmm...I've not yet conditioned myself to automatically think n+1. Perhaps I'm not yet a true cyclist.

    All messing aside, there is something very satisfying about doing a job yourself, and I always try and DIY, whether it's servicing a car or installing a kitchen, or just changing a plug


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    well, the bike shop's advice was 'leave it to us, not much point in buying a tool and then finding out the BB is shot'.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie



    so the decision tomorrow - pay a professional €15 to sort it for me, or buy the tool and do it myself but have to learn how to do it along the way, and probably make mistakes?
    i know which i *should* do, but what should i do, is the question.

    You'd buy a new BB for that. That said, your LBS is my LBS and I fully support keeping them in business.

    However, I've at least 2 tools for removing Hollowtech II BBs. pretty basic. Can drop one down to you if you're stuck in the next few days, but not until tomorrow evening at the earliest.


    Same LBS said I should have left it to the them in the first place when I ran into a brick wall a while ago.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,484 ✭✭✭Fighting Tao


    Seeing that BB's are the current topic. I have a 2015 Cube road bike with a Hollowtech II BB and 105 compact chainset. I suspect that the BB is nearing the end of life. It had been making a brushing noise for the past year and now there appears to be a bit of a click too. I know there is different threads, english and Italian. Apart from that are all Hollowtech II BB's the same fit?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I'm no BB expert but I do know that the tool adapter for the Dura Ace 9000 BB is a different size to the 105 5800.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Weepsie wrote: »
    However, I've at least 2 tools for removing Hollowtech II BBs. pretty basic. Can drop one down to you if you're stuck in the next few days, but not until tomorrow evening at the earliest.
    cheers, all done now. in hindsight, it was the right decision as it took the two of them to get the old BB out. i had a spare (unused) ultegra BB which they took in exchange for the one they put in the bike, so only paid the €15 labour, no parts cost.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,192 ✭✭✭Fian


    Do I need a new wheel?

    So I have been getting a series of punctures on the rear wheel of my road bike. I punctured three tubes the weekend before last before calling my wife to collect me. I checked the tyre very carefully when i got home and replaced the tube again. I couldn't see anything problematic on the tyre (and it is only a few months old GPII 4000) I did remove a few bits from the tyre but none of it was penetrated to the inside. I checked the rim very carefully as well, the tape is perfect. the only thing I could see was a slight "bump" where the rim joins to itself, one side of the join is slightly protruded. Very small but I guess this could be the problem.

    Anyway I put a new tube in and it punctured again when i went out on Saturday. Relatively slow puncture, I just pumped it back up a few times and managed to get through about 30km. Not a blowout anyway.

    I like my wheels on this bike - DTSwiss R23s. They are tubeless ready.

    Do I (a) need to replace my wheel?
    (b) could I go tubeless - would this solve the problem?
    (c) perhaps it is something else entirely that i haven't though of?

    If i do need a new wheel would be grateful for recommendations. Disc brakes and I am not willing to spend big money, €300 max but I would prefer less. I presume it is not a problem to replace rear wheel only and leave front one as is?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,786 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Pump the bust tubes and see where the puncture was/is. Are they all in the same place, this may help identify the problem and where it is located.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Pump the bust tubes and see where the puncture was/is. Are they all in the same place, this may help identify the problem and where it is located.

    ...and if you're not doing it already, always fit tyres with the make/model logo at the valve, so you can track where a potential hole/bit of debris is on the tyre, relative to the tube/valve.

    If you're stuck, post a close-up pic of the hole in the tube (with the tube inflated) and we can take a look - the shape/size/type of hole indicates a lot about the cause. Also note whether it is on the inside of the tube (rim/rim-tape issue) or the outside (tyre/debris/hole issue).


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Seeing that BB's are the current topic. I have a 2015 Cube road bike with a Hollowtech II BB and 105 compact chainset. I suspect that the BB is nearing the end of life. It had been making a brushing noise for the past year and now there appears to be a bit of a click too. I know there is different threads, english and Italian. Apart from that are all Hollowtech II BB's the same fit?

    As mentioned, some series' of Dura Ace stuff is different, but with 105, you should be fine with any Road* Hollowtech II BSA (English) threaded BB.

    *the spindle spacing on the MTB ones can be different.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Pump the bust tubes and see where the puncture was/is. Are they all in the same place, this may help identify the problem and where it is located.
    also, if you do this while the tube is mounted on the rim, it'll give you the two spots where it might have happened relative to the rim (assuming you don't know which way the tube was oriented); if it matches up with the rim weld line, you may have your culprit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,192 ✭✭✭Fian


    also, if you do this while the tube is mounted on the rim, it'll give you the two spots where it might have happened relative to the rim (assuming you don't know which way the tube was oriented); if it matches up with the rim weld line, you may have your culprit.

    well the latest tube is still on the rim, inside the tyre so first step is to remove teh tire and inflate the tube i guess and see where teh problem is.

    Also good idea about mounting the tyre with the logo at valve, I have not been doing that.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    My seized seatpost saga goes on. The stronger penetrant spray has as yet done nothing, and I perhaps sprayed too much in. When I picked up the bike the next day it poured out of the seatstays, and likely onto my new disc pads!!


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,786 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Weepsie wrote: »
    My seized seatpost saga goes on. The stronger penetrant spray has as yet done nothing, and I perhaps sprayed too much in. When I picked up the bike the next day it poured out of the seatstays, and likely onto my new disc pads!!

    Can you take out the BB? If so, do it, turn the bike upside down and pour in a bottle of Regular Coke.come back a day later and see what happens


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Can you take out the BB? If so, do it, turn the bike upside down and pour in a bottle of Regular Coke.come back a day later and see what happens

    I'm was hoping to avoid that, but It might be the next step alright. It was a PITA getting the BB on in the first place., but to get more of the remaining oil out it, would be best.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,728 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    The headset on my winter bike is either fooked or just needs a good grease, it feels proper rough.

    Looked at vids and it seems okay to do but in reality is it?

    Bike is a alu frame with carbon fork.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,416 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    fairly straightforward. one of those jobs that you'll learn easily from any mistakes, i've found.


  • Registered Users Posts: 436 ✭✭S_D


    S_D wrote: »
    Hi all, I need help! I have a Zipp 900 disc, and noticed the free hub(188 hub) was loose, so decided to take it off, check it out, seemed ok (I think) , i cleaned it with de-greaser , popped some dry lube on the little pawl sockets, (Didnt lube anything else) popped it back together, tightened it up(not overly tight just so theres no play) but it feels very stiff and doesnt spin very freely! Maybe im being paranoid but am i missing something? I guess my main question is...how does one know when the free hub is worn and need replacing? (and I made sure to put it back together lol)


    Anyone?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,728 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    fairly straightforward. one of those jobs that you'll learn easily from any mistakes, i've found.

    So had a go and got through it even if took ages plus what was inside was messy etc etc. There is still a little play so I'll reassess tomorrow.

    The bottom bearing was a ring with ball bearings in it so can this be replaced with a sealed unit? I'd imagine the sealed ones are of better quality.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 18,152 ✭✭✭✭silverharp


    looking for a second hand bike for junior aged 14 he would be in the 5`1″-5`5″ 15” / 16″ range , how do i make sense of an advert like below that just gives the wheel size? are mountain bikes generally more forgiving sizewise?


    https://www.donedeal.ie/bicycles-for-sale/gents-apollo-gradient-mountain-bike-like-new/21072239

    A belief in gender identity involves a level of faith as there is nothing tangible to prove its existence which, as something divorced from the physical body, is similar to the idea of a soul. - Colette Colfer



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    S_D wrote: »
    Anyone?

    Smooth stiffness, or rough and/or noisy?

    Any damage/burring/spreading on the working edges of the pawls?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    silverharp wrote: »
    looking for a second hand bike for junior aged 14 he would be in the 5`1″-5`5″ 15” / 16″ range , how do i make sense of an advert like below that just gives the wheel size? are mountain bikes generally more forgiving sizewise?


    https://www.donedeal.ie/bicycles-for-sale/gents-apollo-gradient-mountain-bike-like-new/21072239

    You can't really make sense of that ad, as 26" is the "adult" wheel size - smaller sizes (12, 14, 16, 20, 24) are the ones which can be used to define the rider-size involved - 26" bikes may have small, medium or large frames.

    Looking at the shots in the ad (frame size in proportion to the known-size 26" wheels), I'd say that, unfortunately that bike is too big for your son...


  • Registered Users Posts: 436 ✭✭S_D


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Smooth stiffness, or rough and/or noisy?

    Any damage/burring/spreading on the working edges of the pawls?




    smooth stiffness


    I dont think so but I'm sure I have the eyes for that


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    S_D wrote: »
    smooth stiffness


    I don't think so but I'm sure I have the eyes for that

    Strange - did it come on suddenly (did you take it apart before and accidentally omit a shim?) or if not, do the bearings in the feel free (or is the grease dried up and stiff?).

    If not, it's hard to say...


  • Registered Users Posts: 436 ✭✭S_D


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Strange - did it come on suddenly (did you take it apart before and accidentally omit a shim?) or if not, do the bearings in the feel free (or is the grease dried up and stiff?).

    If not, it's hard to say...


    I think I'll bring it to a shop to check it lol


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Ray Bloody Purchase


    Any recommendations for a decent floor pump?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,838 ✭✭✭CrowdedHouse


    Seven Worlds will Collide



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Make sure it has a head that you like (some are very awkward to use), a plastic barrel is fine for light use, but a metal one is better, and ones with a tripod-style foot are much more stable (ones with a two-way bow-tie foot fall over every time you look at them).

    Bontrager have a good one (Charger) for a rrp of €29


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Ray Bloody Purchase


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Make sure it has a head that you like (some are very awkward to use), a plastic barrel is fine for light use, but a metal one is better, and ones with a tripod-style foot are much more stable (ones with a two-way bow-tie foot fall over every time you look at them).

    Bontrager have a good one (Charger) for a rrp of €29

    Thanks. I have a crap Giyo one that doesn't really work and is very unstable. It always falls over in the shed too. And then i get caught up in the hose. :mad::mad:


Advertisement