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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #1352
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    had something snapped on it?


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    #1353
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

    When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

    Anyone have experience with this?


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    #1354
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    North of 32 wrote: »
    There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

    When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

    Anyone have experience with this?


    Possibly mould release marks?


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    #1355
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users Posts: 24,987 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    North of 32 wrote: »
    There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

    When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

    Anyone have experience with this?
    I had a black carbon bike and it had lots of those type of markings. Doesn't seem to be as noticeable on lighter coloured bikes.


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    #1356
    Eamonnator
    Registered Users Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.


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    #1357
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould
    does your bike smell mouldy?


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    #1358
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    I was a bit worried seeing them show up on the fork but it sounds like it's only cosmetic. I can live with that. Sent a few pictures to Canyon earlier as well and I'll see what they say.


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    #1359
    Miklos
    Registered Users Posts: 985 ✭✭✭Miklos


    I have them on my Scott along the top tube as well. It's from the manufacturing process, nothing to worry about.


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    #1360
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Can't say I would be overly pleased with the marks, for me they wouldn't pass cosmetically, structurally they'll be sound but a new bike should be mint


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    #1361
    ED E
    Registered Users Posts: 36,167 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    I wouldnt be happy with that either. Canyon rushing to beat the backlog?


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    #1362
    devonp
    Registered Users Posts: 814 ✭✭✭devonp


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.




    same here, never any probs:)


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    #1363
    Fighting Tao
    Registered Users Posts: 6,484 ✭✭✭Fighting Tao


    I have seen a lot worse on a Matt frame from Ribble.


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    #1364
    rayman1
    Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭rayman1


    I have 2 carbon bikes, a gloss black Giant and a matt black Cube and there are absolutely no such marks on them.
    Both bought in lbs and while I realise they are cosmetic, I wouldn't have bought them with those marks. Just not good enough on a new bike.


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    #1365
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

    Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?


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    #1366
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

    Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?


    Not quite the same length but otherwise near-identical.


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    #1367
    doozerie
    Registered Users Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    Charman921 wrote: »
    Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

    I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

    Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

    A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

    I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

    With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

    With the freehub design the bearings sit much closer to the end of the axle on the drive side, I believe this has largely eliminated rear axles snapping.


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    #1368
    Gasco
    Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Gasco


    Gasco wrote: »
    Hi
    Just moved to Ultegra 11 speed after many happy years on the 10 speed version.
    Have used Wipperman chains for a number of years with no issue, so decided to stick with what I know. Have an Absolute Black small ring that is just not meshing correctly with the chain, the chain works ok with the big ring.
    Overall the chain is quite noisy on this set up, if the limit screws are not perfect on the rear der there is poor meshing there also.
    Anyone using this combo - experience similar issues with this set up??

    thanks

    G'co

    An "out of interest" update on this, solved the problem by installing a Shimano chain. I think the Wipperman 11 speed chain has bigger rollers. I could not get the Connex link to work with the Shimano chain. One side of the link would not fit through, the other, just about. Very frustrating, as it was not a cheap chain.

    G


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    #1369
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.


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    #1370
    Paul_Mc1988
    Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?


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    #1371
    padyjoe
    Registered Users Posts: 1,194 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

    I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
    Thanks!


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    #1372
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,766 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    doozerie wrote: »
    I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

    With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

    This is exactly right. I snapped a lot of rear axles carrying shopping on my old hybrid, and I've carried an awful lot of stuff on my tourer (with freehub), and never had an axle snap.

    But in my freewheeling days (not as exciting as that sounds) I was able to get wheels that didn't have the freewheel built in; wasn't aware that that might have changed. Still have the tool for getting freewheels off. Was very good exercise, as it got tighter and tighter the more you cycled!

    EDIT: Ah! I misunderstood; the conversation was about how you could always remove the freewheel from the wheel, but this modern wheel doesn't allow it. I think it's pretty standard to be able to remove freehubs with a big allen key though.


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    #1373
    Gasco
    Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Gasco


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.

    Thanks T17,

    Will keep the chain gauge to hand.

    G


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    #1374
    Effects
    Registered Users Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    I'm looking into getting a torque wrench, anyone have any advice?

    Thinking I'll go with this Rose one: https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-2-24-nm-torque-wrench-688275

    I have a toolset of theirs that's always worked pretty well for me.


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    #1375
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,786 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    padyjoe wrote: »
    Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

    I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
    Thanks!

    If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?


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    #1376
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.


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    #1377
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    CramCycle wrote: »
    If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

    Left hand drill bits are ideal for this


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    #1378
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    LollipopJimmy wrote: »
    I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

    Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?


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    #1379
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    anyone here ever serviced TRP hy-rd disc brakes? is it a straightforward job?

    edit; weirdly, i see someone has just posted in the other maintenance thread about a similar issue. on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.


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    #1380
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    cletus wrote: »
    Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

    5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.


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    #1381
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    LollipopJimmy wrote: »
    5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

    Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)


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