the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

gaffmaster

murphk wrote: »

hi

I recently changed bike from a 2012 Felt n95, to a Giant TCR advanced.
I had a retuil bike fit done on the old bike and one of the rec's was to change to 165mm cranks (i never did ths)

Can I take this recommendation to the new bike? is it still valid?

Assuming it is im also looking to get a power meter

I'm looking at the 4iii power meter Ultegra 6800 165mm (any thoughts ?)

finally seeing as i would be buying the Cranks and the Power meter is it possible to buy only the chainside crank and the power meter crank ?


Thanks for your help in advance

Your bike fitter's recommendation of 165mm cranks would be relevant for any road bike set up to your measurements. Take note of the corresponding saddle height suggested too, as it will most likely relate to those shorter cranks (and not the assumed 170mm ones I'm assuming you're currently on).

In relation to buying a power crank arm - you'd have to buy a full chainset such as Ultegra 6800, and then replace the left side crank arm with a power crank. Alternatively, you could spend more and get a double sided power chainset.

Planet X

Surly Disc Trucker.
So.....the front disc has been squealing for quiet a while.
I haven't been on my bike for quiet a while.
Gave it a good sponge down, re oiled etc etc and felt I had to address the front disc.
On line tutorials suggest looking at the caliper mounting, loosening it completely, "closing" pads on rotor etc etc. And, I forgot initially, opening the cable stop. Lining up the caliper exactly parallel with fork. Done. Happy enough. Tightened everything again. Pads parallel to rotor.

Still squealing.....but is this because the pads have worn unevenly and after a while, they'll even up in relation to the rotor.
I would think so?

magicbastarder

Did you clean the pads?

Planet X

No....never touched them.
Before I adjusted this morning, they were visibly not parallel to rotor.

Deano12345

Test fitting my new frame and everything was going swimmingly, right up until I went to fit my cranks.

Frame is a BB30 Pressfit, the whole assembly seems to be made by FSA. Cranks I'm using are FSA SLK.

The issue I'm running into is the spindle fits in just fine, but its not long enough!

Is there multiple spindle lengths for BB30?

Looks like new cranks for me anyway!

ED E

Planet X wrote: »

No....never touched them.
Before I adjusted this morning, they were visibly not parallel to rotor.

The alignment isnt the cause of the noise, its dirt. As soon as discs get dirty they get noisy.

This is what you need.

ED E

Deano12345 wrote: »

Is there multiple spindle lengths for BB30?

68 and 73mm, the latter being the MTB and former road.

Deano12345

ED E wrote: »

68 and 73mm, the latter being the MTB and former road.

Thanks,

Measured the spindle there and they are 73mm, but the spindle only comes to not even the face of the bearing as it is now.

Thinking I may need BB386 as this would give me the length, but I'm unsure weather the power meter I have will work then.

Think I'll give up and run Hollowtech!

DaveyDave

Any tips for doing a yearly service of the bike? My maintenance includes a garden pump spray rinse with MucOff and WD40 bike degreaser every few weeks with a clean of the rims/pads as necessary.

I only recently cleaned and reseated the seatpost, saddle, axles, pedals etc. Didn't take the cranks or cassette off.

Is there anything else I should do to look after the bike? Is it worth taking off the bars and stem to clean and retorque? Take off the cranks and cassette and soak in degreaser?

magicbastarder

open up the cage on the RD and take the jockey wheels out and regrease.
regrease the headset.

Planet X

ED E wrote: »

The alignment isnt the cause of the noise, its dirt. As soon as discs get dirty they get noisy.

This is what you need.

Cheers Ed,
Had another fettle with it this morning. Took the caliper off completely only for the "outside drum" to pop out. The outside adjuster that closes in on the pad. Not the red plastic dial but the one that contacts the pad. Here's me trying to screw it back in for ages only to discover that it pushes in.

All knowledge gained I suppose.

Pads out.....very fine sand paper. Planed them for a few minutes each. Back in. Adjustments and off I go. Squeaking finished.
Cheers
Got to work and used a solvent to clean the rotors.
Everything fine.

Deano12345

Glad I decided to build the new frame up 2 weeks before I actually need it.

Sorted my crank problem by fitting a set of Shimano cranks. Easy!

Only other issue was the brakes. I had flat mount so needed post mount callipers. Bike shop only had the one so I took that and ordered another.

Fitted it to the front, mounts just fine but the disk hit the inner of the caliper housing. Think the frame is set up to take 140mm discs. Googled it and it seems like all it needs is a cheap adapter. Sorted...I think?

Rear is a different kettle of fish. Caliper arm actually hits the frame so I can’t even bolt it in. Am wondering if it’s specifically the caliper I’m using (Shimano R517) or is it something else? Do they make calipers designed only for 140mm discs? Going to head to a few more shops today and have also emailed Ribble so hoping for something back!

Any advice is appreciated!

magicbastarder

as is common here, photos would help provide clarity on the exact issue.

Deano12345

magicbastarder wrote: »

as is common here, photos would help provide clarity on the exact issue.

Knew I forgot to do something! Will upload more when I’m back tomorrow!

CantGetNoSleep

I found an old Garmin GSC10 speed / cadence sensor that I fitted to a bike that I use when on holiday. Has been sitting in a cupboard for at least two years but it works - only problem is it doesn't seem to have the cadence magnet that goes on the crank arm. Easily available online but costs 9.99 + delivery. Anyone know is there something that can be used instead of this or a way to get cadence measurement on the cheap?

Is it just a magnet missing? i.e you have the sensor the magnet passes? Try plucking a strong one off the fridge and using that.

Also https://www.instructables.com/id/Very-Easy-Cadence-Meter-For-Your-Bike-12/

tuxy

What would be the most secure way to attach the magnet to the crank?

Buzwaldo

tuxy wrote: »

What would be the most secure way to attach the magnet to the crank?

Small cable tie ?

tuxy

Buzwaldo wrote: »

Small cable tie ?

Maybe, if the magnet is big enough and you file a groove for the cable to sit in place.

Dab of glue , you'd easily pry it back off. Tape or blu tack to check it works first then glue in place.

CantGetNoSleep

Didn't think of a fridge magnet, will give that a go, thanks

CantGetNoSleep

Put a new set of wheels on my disc bike today. There is a little bit of break rub and the levers feel very spongy. The rear lever almost touches the handlebar when you brake hard. Bike has relatively low mileage (few hundred km) but was sitting unused for a year before I started using it.

Would a bleed solve these issues? Anyone recommend a YouTube tutorial on how to do so? I have a Shimano bleed kit but never used it

Type 17

Try re-centring the callipers on the discs, as they are probably off to one side, compared to the (new) discs, and one piston is having to travel too far to reach the disc, leading to long lever-travel.

There are further things to try before re-bleeding, but try that first.

Effects

Looking for some quick advice. I've to take wheels off bike for transport in my car. I've got disc brakes.
I had an issue when I brought it on a plane before and the brakes got pumped too much. Had to bring it back to LBS to have them bleed them.
Can I just put something in place of the disc, and any advice what that should be?

smacl

Effects wrote: »

Looking for some quick advice. I've to take wheels off bike for transport in my car. I've got disc brakes.
I had an issue when I brought it on a plane before and the brakes got pumped too much. Had to bring it back to LBS to have them bleed them.
Can I just put something in place of the disc, and any advice what that should be?

I usually fold up a couple of business cards if I'm working on the bike, seems to do the trick. The last bleed kit I got actually came with a bunch of cards for this purpose.

smacl

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Put a new set of wheels on my disc bike today. There is a little bit of break rub and the levers feel very spongy. The rear lever almost touches the handlebar when you brake hard. Bike has relatively low mileage (few hundred km) but was sitting unused for a year before I started using it.

Would a bleed solve these issues? Anyone recommend a YouTube tutorial on how to do so? I have a Shimano bleed kit but never used it

I got my bleed kit off these guys and use their tutorial videos; https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/shimano/complete-kit/#t-2 Like anything you haven't done before, a bit unnerving initially but pretty straight forward in hindsight. There's also a grub screw in the Shimano levers control amount of travel, but if it is already full in you'll need a tiny bit more fluid if opening it out.

Effects

smacl wrote: »

I usually fold up a couple of business cards if I'm working on the bike, seems to do the trick. The last bleed kit I got actually came with a bunch of cards for this purpose.

Thanks, I'll probably just do that.
Have to pick up some tubeless sealant in cycleways so might see what they have to offer.

I'm right in thinking tubeless sealant needs to be topped up? Current stuff is in there since Christmas. Heading to Arranmore and don't want to get stuck!

cython

Effects wrote: »

Looking for some quick advice. I've to take wheels off bike for transport in my car. I've got disc brakes.
I had an issue when I brought it on a plane before and the brakes got pumped too much. Had to bring it back to LBS to have them bleed them.
Can I just put something in place of the disc, and any advice what that should be?

If you want to go down the tool route, some chain keepers like this one have a caliper shim, and you could just use this for both chain and brakes https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-multi-adjust-chain-hanger/

MojoMaker

So I have 36/52 rings on one of my bikes. It's a nice DA 9000 chainset but I want to go lower, without having to replace the big ring (not cheap). Can my standard 5800 FD work with a 34/52 setup?

I have heard mixed opinions but nothing definitive one way or the other.

DaveyDave

Dropped the back wheel to get trued earlier. Your man asked has anyone else touched them as they were very tight and there may not be much they could do. This was the first I've heard of this being an issue with a wheel, is this true?

They've only been trued once. I've had other wheels trued a few times in the past. Campag Zonda wheel.