the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle

I've always found the SRAM better than Shimano in regards durability, not sure if that still holds up but it certainly was the case many moons ago.

Type 17

CramCycle wrote: »

I've always found the SRAM better than Shimano in regards durability, not sure if that still holds up but it certainly was the case many moons ago.

Yes, I still find SRAM to be more durable and Shimano. Perhaps other brands are even more durable, but SRAM is certainly a lot better than Shimano.

secman

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain, anyone have any experience with these, whats the Shimano equivalent ?
Or any suggestions as to which sram chain is best for

1. Summer bikes with ultegra 11 speed
2. Winter bikes both ultegra, a 10 speed and an 11 speed.

Thanks

Deano12345

secman wrote: »

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain, anyone have any experience with these, whats the Shimano equivalent ?
Or any suggestions as to which sram chain is best for

1. Summer bikes with ultegra 11 speed
2. Winter bikes both ultegra, a 10 speed and an 11 speed.

Thanks

I've ran one for probably the last 6 months or so. I find it durable like others have said. I was running a Dura Ace chain (HG-901?) before and found that wore more quickly. I think the SRAM chain is heavier but its not something I can say I've noticed.

Ran it on an R8000 chainset during the summer but its on Spider-Rings at the moment, working perfectly well! . Can't speak for their 10 speed chains

Type 17

secman wrote: »

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain, anyone have any experience with these, whats the Shimano equivalent ?
Or any suggestions as to which sram chain is best for

1. Summer bikes with ultegra 11 speed
2. Winter bikes both ultegra, a 10 speed and an 11 speed.

Thanks

I've used PC1130 and PC1170 on Ultregra R8000 (Di2, in case that's relevant) and find them fine, with no noticeable difference in shifting from Shimano chains. However the SRAM chains are much durable, assuming the same environmental conditions and lubrication regime.

1130 vs. 1170: the 1170 has hollow pins and so is lighter, and SRAM mention chrome hardened pins for longer life, but I can't say I noticed any difference in this (although it is definitely lighter in the hand).

CantGetNoSleep

Today while out on a ride the rail clamp for the saddle kept coming loose.

First time it happened I assumed that I had just not tightened it when I put a new saddle bag clip on, but about 10km later I noticed one of the screws falling off my bike. Tightened it up again but gone again within 5 mins.

Only thing I can think of was that the washer was in the wrong place - I was putting it next to the screw and then leaving the small thing the screw goes into on its own.

Any idea where I am going wrong?

It is this mount:
https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-KNOT-27-Rail-Clamps-%26-Hardware--K26050/product_detail/3-45340

Type 17

Sounds like the washer is in the right place - just under the allen head of the bolt - and the nut/threaded cylinder should be "without washer"

Perhaps the threads in the nut are failing/stripped?

CramCycle

If the saddle isn't sitting down properly, the screws will keep working loose as you ride as well. Other than that a bit of loctite or plumbing tape on the bolt to help it stick

tomasrojo

That's a good tip about the plumber's tape. I have some in the shed, and I didn't know it could be used for that. Finally have a use for it! (I don't do much plumbing.)

CantGetNoSleep

Thanks for the suggestions, will give it a try. It does seem like whatever way I've mounted it I've done something wrong as I can tighten it and it will be perfectly solid but works its way lose after a few mins of sitting on it (whereas it is fine if I leave it alone).

Going to take it off and try putting it back on again and see what I might have done wrong.

It's a fairly new seat post so don't think it would be stripped.

burger1979

Can someone please explain to me the major price difference that exists between Ultegra R8070 Disc Di2 (circa €1500 Wiggle) and the Ultegra R8020 Disc MEch set ( circa €950 wiggle)??? I can think of the following things - rear and front mech, wires instead of cables, junction boxes/ports etc required for the Di2 setup. Anything else? Reason I am asking is that I am looking at the Emonda SL6 disc pro (mech) + SL7 (Di2). There is a price jump of €1300.00 according to the Trek website. Everything between the bikes is the same.

Di2 is electronic shifting, mech is mechanical shifting or traditional.

burger1979

thanks for the reply, i know that one is mech and the other electronic. I'm just wondering does the cost difference (circa €600) really all just about the upgrading of the mech parts (front and rear mech etc.) to electronic parts?
With using the emonds I mentioned above the sl6 has all the same parts as the sl7, frame, wheels, seatpost, stem etc save for the groupset being mech (sl6) versus Di2 (sl7). Trek are looking for a cost upgrade of €1300, yet wiggle look for a cost upgrade of €600.

tuxy

Depends on how much disposable income you have.

Is it worth the cost to have slightly smoother shifting, never have to mess with cable tension and much easier to index.
Only you can answer that.

It wasn't worth it to me, very happy with ultegra mechanical.
But I have also never heard anyone being disappointed with di2, however these people would have more income than I do.

burger1979

burger1979 wrote: »

thanks for the reply, i know that one is mech and the other electronic. I'm just wondering does the cost difference (circa €600) really all just about the upgrading of the mech parts (front and rear mech etc.) to electronic parts?
With using the emonds I mentioned above the sl6 has all the same parts as the sl7, frame, wheels, seatpost, stem etc save for the groupset being mech (sl6) versus Di2 (sl7). Trek are looking for a cost upgrade of €1300, yet wiggle look for a cost upgrade of €600.

Ah I'm with you now, one of those mornings here

Just looking at the 2020 models, carbon wheels and different derailleur's on the SL7 and possibly different breaks?

Wheels/Rims wouldn't be my area so not really sure how much that would add to the price vs the SL6

EDIT: Quick price check would suggest a fair bit of difference in price between the wheel sets depending on exact models.

fat bloke

Usually the cheapest way to buy a groupset is as part of a build so it would be unusual that the specs would be the exact same except for the di2 over mechanical and Trek just creaming off an extra 700 quid! There must be more in it. Or maybe the mechanical one is just a bargain and you're staring the gift horse in the mouth!

Type 17

I have a bike with Di2 and, IMO, it is worth the difference if you tend to keep your bikes for a long time, as you'll enjoy the Di2's advantages for longer and your extra investment will pay off over a longer period. However, if you like selling/upgrading your bikes relatively often, it might make less sense.

Type 17

Deleted User wrote: »

Ah I'm with you now, one of those mornings here

Just looking at the 2020 models, carbon wheels and different derailleur's on the SL7 and possibly different breaks?

Wheels/Rims wouldn't be my area so not really sure how much that would add to the price vs the SL6

EDIT: Quick price check would suggest a fair bit of difference in price between the wheel sets depending on exact models.

I think that burger1979 is comparing the SL7 with the SL6 Pro - there is an SL6 (non-Pro) model which does have lesser wheels (and maybe other stuff), but the SL6 Pro and SL7 seem to be the same except for the Di2/mechanical drivetrain.

burger1979

Thats exactly it Type 17......the sl6 pro disc (probably should have stated that earlier, apologies)...i did the compare option between that and the SL7 and everything the same apart from Di2 and the tyres.........mmmmmm me needs to think about this one....thanks for the help.

Thargor

How often do you have to charge the batteries in those electronic systems roughly? Or are they even rechargeable?

tuxy

Thargor wrote: »

How often do you have to charge the batteries in those electronic systems roughly? Or are they even rechargeable?

Depends how much you use it but even for very active cyclists it's a few months between charges.
Between 2500 and 5000 kilometres is Shimano's official answer.
It only takes a tiny amount of power to move a derailleur.
Battery is easy to remove and plugs into a special charger.

LollipopJimmy

tuxy wrote: »

Depends how much you use it but even for very active cyclists it's a few months between charges.
Between 2500 and 5000 kilometres is Shimano's official answer.
It only takes a tiny amount of power to move a derailleur.
Battery is easy to remove and plugs into a special charger.

The latest iteration of them just requires a cable to be plugged into the junction box, the battery isn't removed to charge. Very simple altogether and needs to be charged about once a quarter for me and I generally charge when it's about 30% or so. This is with it connected by bluetooth to my Garmin which is obviously a drain also.

Thargor

Bent the right drop on my fooking handlebars today when I slipped on ice this morning, not badly but you definitely see and feel it when on the bike. It feels like it will snap if I try to bend it back in place aswell, it doesnt move even when I apply a lot of force. Im going to really force it tomorrow or is there a better way I haven't thought of? Giant Defy 3.

Deano12345

Thargor wrote: »

Bent the right drop on my fooking handlebars today when I slipped on ice this morning, not badly but you definitely see and feel it when on the bike. It feels like it will snap if I try to bend it back in place aswell, it doesnt move even when I apply a lot of force. Im going to really force it tomorrow or is there a better way I haven't thought of? Giant Defy 3.

Wouldn't risk it IMO, if its bent badly enough that you can feel it on the bike I'd replace it.

If you're Dublin based I have a pair of drop bars you can have for free. I don't need 3 spare bars!

Thargor

Deano12345 wrote: »

Wouldn't risk it IMO, if its bent badly enough that you can feel it on the bike I'd replace it.

If you're Dublin based I have a pair of drop bars you can have for free. I don't need 3 spare bars!

Ah wow thanks for that, Ill keep that in mind cheers, its very slight though, I think Ill try it with a bit of leverage tomorrow, I tried to take a pic for that post but the camera doesn't really capture it.

cletus

Thargor wrote: »

Ah wow thanks for that, Ill keep that in mind cheers, its very slight though, I think Ill try it with a bit of leverage tomorrow, I tried to take a pic for that post but the camera doesn't really capture it.

Try heating it first. Bench vice can be handy for this sort of thing

CantGetNoSleep

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Thanks for the suggestions, will give it a try. It does seem like whatever way I've mounted it I've done something wrong as I can tighten it and it will be perfectly solid but works its way lose after a few mins of sitting on it (whereas it is fine if I leave it alone).

Going to take it off and try putting it back on again and see what I might have done wrong.

It's a fairly new seat post so don't think it would be stripped.

Can anyone see anything obvious wrong in the attached photos?

Type 17

Photos not showing...

CantGetNoSleep

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Thanks for the suggestions, will give it a try. It does seem like whatever way I've mounted it I've done something wrong as I can tighten it and it will be perfectly solid but works its way lose after a few mins of sitting on it (whereas it is fine if I leave it alone).

Going to take it off and try putting it back on again and see what I might have done wrong.

It's a fairly new seat post so don't think it would be stripped.

Can anyone tell me if anything looks obviously wrong here?

Type 17

Looks correct - maybe disassemble it and wipe a little grease over all of the surfaces that touch each other, and then when you re-tighten everything, it should all move into the tightest position (possibly the two large cradle parts that grip the saddle rails are not settling fully against each other/the rails/the top of the seat post, and they settle a bit further when you ride the bike - grease would help it all settle whilst you're still tightening up the bolts).

(wipe it down before riding to avoid greasy clothes)