the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle

Could the top of the clamp move forward by a smidgen*. As said above, loosen everything, give a rattle and retighten to see does it sit better.


*a legitimate measurement in this scenario

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

Could the top of the clamp move forward by a smidgen*. As said above, loosen everything, give a rattle and retighten to see does it sit better.


*a legitimate measurement in this scenario

Actually, a smidgen is technically half a pinch, or about 1/32 of a teaspoon. It's a measure of volume, rather than length...

LollipopJimmy

On the link you posted earlier there is threadlock on the bolts, if you have removed them this will have broken down, maybe torque to spec with threadlock again. Don't over tighten

cletus

So, while perusing the Park Tools YouTube channel for videos on removal of cup and cone BB, I see there is a recommendation for both anti-seize and grease. Now, I have copper slip and lithium grease out in the shed.

Question is, can anyone give any reason why I couldn't use both of these substances while working on the bike, or will I be forced to spend lots on little tubes of bike specific stuff

triggermortis

cletus wrote: »

So, while perusing the Park Tools YouTube channel for videos on removal of cup and cone BB, I see there is a recommendation for both anti-seize and grease. Now, I have copper slip and lithium grease out in the shed.

Question is, can anyone give any reason why I couldn't use both of these substances while working on the bike, or will I be forced to spend lots on little tubes of bike specific stuff

I'd say both of those are fine. Use the copper slip on anything that doesn't move - ie bottle cage bolts, seat posts etc and the lithium grease on headsets, wheels, BB's etc

cletus

Two more questions.

Bike I'm working on has a cup and cone bottom bracket, is it relatively easy, or even beneficial, to replace this with one of the newer types of BB?

Secondly, are the dropouts in the picture horizontal enough to allow me to go single speed?

cdaly_

cletus wrote: »

Two more questions.

Bike I'm working on has a cup and cone bottom bracket, is it relatively easy, or even beneficial, to replace this with one of the newer types of BB?

If the cups are sound and not pitted, just grease them up well and carry on.

Secondly, are the dropouts in the picture horizontal enough to allow me to go single speed?

Yes, they should work nicely. You are depending on the tightness of the axle nut to maintain you chain tension so no quick-release axle there.

Type 17

You should also check the cups and the races on the BB axle for uneven wear - it's very common with old cup & cone BB's that they have been ridden loose and the races are ovalised - rotate the spindle in the hand and check if the shiny bearing track gets wider/narrower as it goes around - if so, a new-style square-taper BB would be a better move. If replacing the BB, measure the old spindle and (if you're not changing the crankset/the offset of the crankset) get the same length - lengths available include 110.5, 113, 115, 118, 122.5, and 127.5mm (assuming cotterless cranks).

deconduo

07Lapierre wrote: »

IMO a complete strip down on an annual basis really depends on the bike and your annual mileage. If you have one bike and you cycle throughout the year, then taking if off the road for a few hours on a weekend and giving it a "full service" is a good idea. That is, replace the BB and headset bearings, replace brake/gear cables, brake pads, tyres(and possibly tubes), new handlebar tape and give it a thorough clean and lube as well, will keep your bike in tiptop condition.

Following up on this from another thread - is there a beginners guide to bike maintenence that has a checklist of what to do and when?

Something like:
- Do X before every cycle
- Do X after every cycle
- Do X after every 5 cycles
- Do X after every 500km
- Do X every year

I'd pump up the tyres before each cycle, and wipe down the bike after a cycle. However I'm sure there's a lot more I should be doing. I've no idea when I should grease the chain, or go to bike shop to get a service etc.

8valve

deconduo wrote: »

Following up on this from another thread - is there a beginners guide to bike maintenence that has a checklist of what to do and when?

Something like:
- Do X before every cycle
- Do X after every cycle
- Do X after every 5 cycles
- Do X after every 500km
- Do X every year

I'd pump up the tyres before each cycle, and wipe down the bike after a cycle. However I'm sure there's a lot more I should be doing. I've no idea when I should grease the chain, or go to bike shop to get a service etc.

A quick excerpt from a basic bike maintenance class i've done with a few groups... Bear in mind this is a simplified list for people who have never picked up a spanner in their lives!



BICYCLE CHECKS SCHEDULE
DAILY SAFETY CHECKS – BEFORE YOU RIDE
· Give your bike a shake! Rattles mean something is loose!
· Check tyre pressures – pump if necessary.
· Are brakes working?
· Wheels secure and turning freely?

WEEKLY CHECK
· Handlebars straight and secure?
· Saddle straight and secure?
· Check brake pad alignment – pads squeezing the rim = good; pads touching the tyre = bad!
· Clean wheel rims where brake pads touch rim.
MONTHLY CHECK
· Check your tyre treads – any bald spots, cracks or bulges are unsafe and require replacement of the tyre.
· Check your brake pads for wear (wear indicator), replace as required.
· Check gears are changing smoothly, not jumping or rattling – if so, bring to your bike mechanic.
· Check brake and gear cables for corrosion (rust) or fraying.
· Clean, degrease and re-lubricate your chain.
ANNUAL CHECK
· Once a year, you should bring your bike to your local bike mechanic for a full service and safety check – he/she can answer any queries or concerns you may have.

deconduo

That's exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Thanks!

Tool needed to adjust the reach on Sora levers?? Been ages since I've done it and I know it's different to 105 etc. I need to adjust the cable at the breaks themselves? Pull it through/let it out ?

Colleagues new bike so forgot to check it myself before I left work earlier.

Type 17

Deleted User wrote: »

Tool needed to adjust the reach on Sora levers?? Been ages since I've done it and I know it's different to 105 etc. I need to adjust the cable at the breaks themselves? Pull it through/let it out ?

Colleagues new bike so forgot to check it myself before I left work earlier.

2mm Allen, adjuster on top of unit at the front, under the hood.

Page 18 here

Loosen the cable, adjust the reach, re-tighten the cable whilst holding the pads a few mm from the rim.

secman

I've a caad 9 with 10 speed ultegra on it, its a tad too big , nearer to a 56 whereas other bikes are 11 speed 54's. Also seat post is seized, 2 serious attempts to remove it have failed. Thinking of removing groupset and buying a 54cm frame and switching the groupset but would prefer it to be a 11 speed . Is this realistic ? Its a winter bike.

Perfect Type 17, thanks a bunch.

CantGetNoSleep

I'm getting a new set of carbon disc wheels and would like to keep one older set for either winter or if I ever decided to sell the bike but keep the wheels.

Problem is that I have two disc bikes and one is QR, one thru axle. I'd prefer to only keep one of these stock wheelsets (and I've already upgraded the second bike)

Anyone know which are more easily converted - i.e. is it better that I keep the thru axle wheels and make them QR if needed or keep the QR wheels?

grogi

secman wrote: »

I've a caad 9 with 10 speed ultegra on it, its a tad too big , nearer to a 56 whereas other bikes are 11 speed 54's. Also seat post is seized, 2 serious attempts to remove it have failed. Thinking of removing groupset and buying a 54cm frame and switching the groupset but would prefer it to be a 11 speed . Is this realistic ? Its a winter bike.

Before going nuclear, maybe a bit shorter stem will be enough? You can also unblock the seatpost by pouring some nasty stuff (don't remember what it was) inside the seat tube from the BB side. Hambini has a video around that (Titled "build a cheap aero bike")

Deano12345

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I'm getting a new set of carbon disc wheels and would like to keep one older set for either winter or if I ever decided to sell the bike but keep the wheels.

Problem is that I have two disc bikes and one is QR, one thru axle. I'd prefer to only keep one of these stock wheelsets (and I've already upgraded the second bike)

Anyone know which are more easily converted - i.e. is it better that I keep the thru axle wheels and make them QR if needed or keep the QR wheels?

Generally from what I’ve seen it’s easier to make a TA wheel adapt to QR since you’d only be stepping down the size of the axle. Normally it’s just a set of end caps and maybe having to swap an axle on the rear. No more than 5 mins work but just make sure the TA wheels have convertible hubs! (I’ve seen them called 4-in-1 hubs, but I’m not too sure if that’s a standard name for them)

CantGetNoSleep

Deano12345 wrote: »

Generally from what I’ve seen it’s easier to make a TA wheel adapt to QR since you’d only be stepping down the size of the axle. Normally it’s just a set of end caps and maybe having to swap an axle on the rear. No more than 5 mins work but just make sure the TA wheels have convertible hubs! (I’ve seen them called 4-in-1 hubs, but I’m not too sure if that’s a standard name for them)

Thanks, that was the same logic I was thinking. The QRs are Mavic Aksiums though so adapters etc. seem to be more easy to source, whereas the others are Maddux stock wheels from a Cannondale (although the Mavic's do seem much easier to sell on)

El Tarangu

I had a lovely Motobecane set up as a single-speed, but the frame snapped just above the bottom bracket.

I want to salvage the components for some other SS project, but it's a right hoor to the get the stem and handlebars off.

RJ the Bike Guy recommended to jam a plank of wood under the stem and hammer it off - I tried this, with some degree of success (more of the fork is now visible), but I'm worried there is not some other nut or bolt that I neglected to remove. Is there some step I missed, or is it just that I need to give it more welly with the hammer?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jrf8XGM2RsB9no3i9

cletus

Can you hear the wedge moving around? If not it might still be stuck. Thread the quill bolt back in partially, then give it a tap to move the wedge. After that, back to the hammer and plank

El Tarangu

cletus wrote: »

Can you hear the wedge moving around? If not it might still be stuck. Thread the quill bolt back in partially, then give it a tap to move the wedge. After that, back to the hammer and plank

Thanks, will give that a go (once I manage to figure out where I have cleverly hidden the quill bolt)

cletus

Right, couple of queries here, so anyone with insight or thoughts please jump in.

The muddy fox frame is away being powder coated, and I'm pretty much sure I'm going to make it a single speed.

It was my plan to unbolt the chain rings and reuse the cranks. However, the chainrings are riveted onto the crank, so that shags that idea.

Next option is obviously to buy new cranks and a narrow/wide chain ring, but I've no idea of what to start looking for here (suggestions on gearing also welcome). I should probably say that the bottom bracket is square tapered

The wheels are 26", so suggestions for suitable single speed replacements would be great (currently has 26x1.75 tyres on them, I'd like to stay at that size, or possibly even go a bit bigger).

Finally, if anybody has a legit reason why I should stick with the original 3x6 setup that's on it rather than going single speed, please feel free to say.

8valve

cletus wrote: »

Right, couple of queries here, so anyone with insight or thoughts please jump in.

The muddy fox frame is away being powder coated, and I'm pretty much sure I'm going to make it a single speed.

It was my plan to unbolt the chain rings and reuse the cranks. However, the chainrings are riveted onto the crank, so that shags that idea.

Next option is obviously to buy new cranks and a narrow/wide chain ring, but I've no idea of what to start looking for here (suggestions on gearing also welcome). I should probably say that the bottom bracket is square tapered

The wheels are 26", so suggestions for suitable single speed replacements would be great (currently has 26x1.75 tyres on them, I'd like to stay at that size, or possibly even go a bit bigger).

Finally, if anybody has a legit reason why I should stick with the original 3x6 setup that's on it rather than going single speed, please feel free to say.

Should be plenty of choice with single speed cranksets on ebay etc.. They tend to be 44 or 46 teeth which seem to be the most popular allrounder sizes. A 16 or 18 tooth single speed screw on freewheel can be used on the back wheel if it isn't the modern cassette type but you might need to get the wheel redished to straighten your chainline.

8valve

Lots of choice in 26 inch tarmac tyres if that's your plan; most tend to be 26x1.5-26x1.75.

Schwalbe marathons are good, grippy, hardwearing and available with puncture resistance.

cletus

8valve wrote: »

Should be plenty of choice with single speed cranksets on ebay etc.. They tend to be 44 or 46 teeth which seem to be the most popular allrounder sizes. A 16 or 18 tooth single speed screw on freewheel can be used on the back wheel if it isn't the modern cassette type but you might need to get the wheel redished to straighten your chainline.

I'll need new wheels, the originals are fubar, so those things shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for the response

cdaly_

8valve wrote: »

Lots of choice in 26 inch tarmac tyres if that's your plan; most tend to be 26x1.5-26x1.75.

Schwalbe marathons are good, grippy, hardwearing and available with puncture resistance.

Which Schwalbe marathons? There are a slew of different varieties. The 'marathon plus' is all of the above plus uncomfortable and slow. The 'marathon supreme' is much of the above but much faster and more comfortable.

8valve

cdaly_ wrote: »

Which Schwalbe marathons? There are a slew of different varieties. The 'marathon plus' is all of the above plus uncomfortable and slow. The 'marathon supreme' is much of the above but much faster and more comfortable.

Weigh up what you want from a tyre and make your choice accordingly. Reliability, grip and puncture resistance, while making a small compromise on rolling resistance and speed?
If the bike is going s/s, I assume its not for long hauling.
There's a reason the high end schwalbe marathons are a popular tyre of choice for that particular breed of person who sets off around the world on a bike.

outfox

cletus wrote: »

Finally, if anybody has a legit reason why I should stick with the original 3x6 setup that's on it rather than going single speed, please feel free to say.

I swapped out a 3x9 to a 1x11 last year. I miss the range, chiefly at the top end when riding on roads. It's fine for offroad, although I suspect the chain wear when using the first or last cog is high. Took me ages to get used to the asymmetrical cockpit (sorry about using that stupid word). I considered putting a remote fork adjuster just to balance it out :pac:

CantGetNoSleep

Does anyone use a portable pressure washer that they can recommend?

I live in an apartment so have to clean my bikes on the balcony.

Typically I use a bucket of hot soapy water and then rinse using one of those hand-pressured tanks using for spraying gardens, but I've just broken it and it was never great so I'm going to get something a bit better.

Looking at the Kärcher OC3 but wondering if there is anything else out there? Don't want to go too much over 100€