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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Does anyone use a portable pressure washer that they can recommend?

    I live in an apartment so have to clean my bikes on the balcony.

    Typically I use a bucket of hot soapy water and then rinse using one of those hand-pressured tanks using for spraying gardens, but I've just broken it and it was never great so I'm going to get something a bit better.

    Looking at the Kärcher OC3 but wondering if there is anything else out there? Don't want to go too much over 100€

    Halfords used to do small own brand washers, which were fine for the money. I'd just be very careful using a power washer on the bike, you can force water into spots you don't want water. If you have just an ordinary hose, it might do the job


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,246 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Yeah I don't think the portable ones are as high pressure as the normal power washer you would use for a car or driveway though so I think it might be ok, plus I'll be more careful around BB / hubs are places where water might get in. It's an apartment so no way of getting water out on the balcony beyond dragging a hose through the living room. The Kärcher looks like a much more convenient solution.

    Will take a look at Halfords though, thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Yeah I don't think the portable ones are as high pressure as the normal power washer you would use for a car or driveway though so I think it might be ok, plus I'll be more careful around BB / hubs are places where water might get in. It's an apartment so no way of getting water out on the balcony beyond dragging a hose through the living room. The Kärcher looks like a much more convenient solution.

    Will take a look at Halfords though, thanks

    How are you feeding water to the power washer?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,246 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    cletus wrote: »
    How are you feeding water to the power washer?
    The Kärcher one has a 4l water tank - will only last a few minutes but I just want something to give the bike a quick clean without going to a lot of hassle, especially at this time of year. A quick spray of Muc Off, a 2 min brush in the areas where there is a bit of muck, and then a quick spray down & relube should do it - with a longer clean of the drive train every few weeks.

    I've ordered it after going through reviews - looks like the tidiest option for what I'm looking for.


  • Registered Users Posts: 535 ✭✭✭dogsears


    Does anyone use a portable pressure washer that they can recommend?

    I live in an apartment so have to clean my bikes on the balcony.

    Typically I use a bucket of hot soapy water and then rinse using one of those hand-pressured tanks using for spraying gardens, but I've just broken it and it was never great so I'm going to get something a bit better.

    Looking at the Kärcher OC3 but wondering if there is anything else out there? Don't want to go too much over 100€

    I got this https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/mobi-v-15-portable-bike-pressure-washer/rp-prod34761 about a year ago and am very pleased with it. Was €68 when I got it, goes for €85 now. Pressure is definitely not "high" but it is as high as you'd need for a bike.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    I'm upgrading from the MegaExo 19mm cranks/BB to something more common - a typical 68mm Shimano 24mm spindle system.

    Would SM-BBR60 (Ultegra) bottom bracket be more durable than BR-RS500 (~Tiagra/105)? What should I prepare myself for?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,750 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    grogi wrote: »
    I'm upgrading from the MegaExo 19mm cranks/BB to something more common - a typical 68mm Shimano 24mm spindle system.

    Would SM-BBR60 (Ultegra) bottom bracket be more durable than BR-RS500 (~Tiagra/105)? What should I prepare myself for?

    The Ultegra bb is smaller diameter with smaller bearings(a minus in my book) but with better weather sealing shimano claim.

    When I used do 10k or so per year I used to just change bb every winter. The cheaper tiagra or ultegra bb will last that long(usually with non drive side in worse shape) as long as you fit it right.

    If your bike is out in all weathers, changing once year is a good idea imo even if not worn.

    Plenty grease on treads and be very very gentle putting on preload bearing cap. If you over tighten expect very short bearing life.

    If you go with ultegra buy the dedicated spanner or socket. The plastic adapter isn't what you want with force required to crack open tight bearings


  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    I have a 11-30 cassette on my turbo trainer.

    I'm going to borrow a bike which has an 11-34 cassette to use on my trainer (because blasted Canyon have had my bike for almost a month)

    Can I expect any issues?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭saccades


    8valve wrote: »
    Lots of choice in 26 inch tarmac tyres if that's your plan; most tend to be 26x1.5-26x1.75.

    Schwalbe marathons are good, grippy, hardwearing and available with puncture resistance.

    I love schwalbe big apples, planet X have them dirt cheap.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    saccades wrote: »
    I love schwalbe big apples, planet X have them dirt cheap.

    Thank you. That was the type of tyre I was thinking of, but didn't know existed. Really like the idea of the big balloon look, without huge knobs. Much appreciated


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Anybody know of a company that will make decals for a bike?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    cletus wrote: »
    Anybody know of a company that will make decals for a bike?

    https://www.bicyclestickers.co.uk/


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭saccades


    gil@thecycleshed.co.uk

    Can also do all the period correct ones too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 575 ✭✭✭bsb1971


    I have an old 1" fork that I am fitting to an old 531 frame, only problem is the fork came from a bigger frame, I need to get the threads extended and cut the length of the steerer tube. I have the original fork (is pig heavy hence I am getting rid of it) so know what length i need it to be (so no problem cutting it), any ideas on where or who I would go to, to get the threading done? I'm in Kerry - anyone have any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    bsb1971 wrote: »
    I have an old 1" fork that I am fitting to an old 531 frame, only problem is the fork came from a bigger frame, I need to get the threads extended and cut the length of the steerer tube. I have the original fork (is pig heavy hence I am getting rid of it) so know what length i need it to be (so no problem cutting it), any ideas on where or who I would go to, to get the threading done? I'm in Kerry - anyone have any ideas?
    Park tool have a specfic threading tool and any good bike shop would probably have it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    bsb1971 wrote: »
    I have an old 1" fork that I am fitting to an old 531 frame, only problem is the fork came from a bigger frame, I need to get the threads extended and cut the length of the steerer tube. I have the original fork (is pig heavy hence I am getting rid of it) so know what length i need it to be (so no problem cutting it), any ideas on where or who I would go to, to get the threading done? I'm in Kerry - anyone have any ideas?

    Any idea what the tpi is? Park tools do a 1" thread die for €200+, which is literally outrageous money

    You can get a 1"x24tpi die on eBay for less than a tenner.

    https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-24-UNS-Right-Hand-Thread-Die-TPI-Threading-Cutting-Metalworking-Tool-Supply/303512457503?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5575376664&toolid=10001&campid=5338268676&customid=Cj0KCQjwpLfzBRCRARIsAHuj6qVqv8Vqcs7lSqaXDa43fzotEIpng3OyKyGnxZXZTFpl0EDFcVycdGoaAhXhEALw_wcB&lgeo=1&item=303512457503&srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&rvr_id=2335186975097&rvr_ts=dfc49a721700a6e559834765ffe0decc&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=786ad379-6a03-438e-a639-694d8338dceb

    Why are bike related things so expensive

    *edit* Actually, just had a quick look there, park tools themselves state that 1"x24tpi is standard, so game ball


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,786 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Cyclesuperstore have threaded stuff for me in the past, I think it was pretty cheap IIRC


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭saccades


    cletus wrote: »
    I'll need new wheels, the originals are fubar, so those things shouldn't be an issue.

    Thanks for the response


    If you are near dubs/n Wexford I have some nearly period correct 26” wheels you can have FOC.
    Alexrims G3000 laced with dtswiss rev onto deore rear and xt disc front. Not sure on the cassette, I think it's xt. Hell, you can have all the 9 speed stuff too.

    Were on the wife's bike so have done just under 200km in the last 12 years.

    Giving the bike to #1 child and using some of my newer disk specific rims/wheels that are gathering dust since my new bike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    saccades wrote: »
    If you are near dubs/n Wexford I have some nearly period correct 26” wheels you can have FOC.
    Alexrims G3000 laced with dtswiss rev onto deore rear and xt disc front. Not sure on the cassette, I think it's xt. Hell, you can have all the 9 speed stuff too.

    Were on the wife's bike so have done just under 200km in the last 12 years.

    Giving the bike to #1 child and using some of my newer disk specific rims/wheels that are gathering dust since my new bike.

    That's a ridiculously kind offer, and I'd love to take you up on it, but unfortunately I'm in Kildare, and given the current situation, unlikely to be in either Dublin or Wexford for the foreseeable.

    If it's ok, next time I'm traveling to either spot, I'll throw you a pm and see if the stuff is still available.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,766 ✭✭✭cython


    I have a 11-30 cassette on my turbo trainer.

    I'm going to borrow a bike which has an 11-34 cassette to use on my trainer (because blasted Canyon have had my bike for almost a month)

    Can I expect any issues?

    If you're asking about using your 11-30 cassette with the chain, etc from the 11-34 bike (e.g. because its direct drive, or you've a dedicated turbo wheel) then you should be fine as you're within the range of the drivetrain, so long as its the same number of sprockets.

    You may need to tweak mech tension/limits but even with the same cassette this would be true.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭saccades


    cletus wrote: »
    That's a ridiculously kind offer, and I'd love to take you up on it, but unfortunately I'm in Kildare, and given the current situation, unlikely to be in either Dublin or Wexford for the foreseeable.

    If it's ok, next time I'm traveling to either spot, I'll throw you a pm and see if the stuff is still available.

    No worries - I'll strip the bike and stick the bits to one side for the time being.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    So, I have another question about a different bike. I have a Claude Butler Pagan from the early to mid noughties that I'm trying to bring back to life.

    It has a 3x7 gear setup, flat handlebar with thumb shifters.

    I'm thinking of putting drop bars on it, making it a sort of suspension gravel cross country frankenbike.

    Question is, can I just get a triple front shifter and a 7speed rear shifter and expect them to play nice with the derailleurs that came with the bike?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    cletus wrote: »
    ...Question is, can I just get a triple front shifter and a 7speed rear shifter and expect them to play nice with the derailleurs that came with the bike?

    Yes*, but drop bar shifters for a 3 x 7 setup will be hard to find - forget your LBS, unless it's run by someone who ends up with lots of dead stock unsold - eBay or other specialist online sellers are the places to look.

    *Obviously, match the manufacturer (presumably Shimano). If the derailleurs aren't Shimano, it might be easier to find a suitable set of Shimano shifters (most commonly found brand) and then buy matching derailleurs.

    PS: If the rear wheel has a cassette, rather than a screw-on freewheel, it might be easier to find 3x8 shifters and then change the cassette to an 8-speed one (most 7-speed rear derailleurs will handle 8 gears if they have an 8-speed shifter in charge).


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Yes*, but drop bar shifters for a 3 x 7 setup will be hard to find - forget your LBS, unless it's run by someone who ends up with lots of dead stock unsold - eBay or other specialist online sellers are the places to look.

    *Obviously, match the manufacturer (presumably Shimano). If the derailleurs aren't Shimano, it might be easier to find a suitable set of Shimano shifters (most commonly found brand) and then buy matching derailleurs.

    PS: If the rear wheel has a cassette, rather than a screw-on freewheel, it might be easier to find 3x8 shifters and then change the cassette to an 8-speed one (most 7-speed rear derailleurs will handle 8 gears if they have an 8-speed shifter in charge).

    Thanks for that Type17. Re the cassette or freewheel, feel free to peruse my latest posts in the "Today I did something..." thread :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    cletus wrote: »
    Thanks for that Type17. Re the cassette or freewheel, feel free to peruse my latest posts in the "Today I did something..." thread :D

    So 3x7 it is, then... ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,983 ✭✭✭✭tuxy


    I need to get a wheel trued when no essential travel is allowed again.

    It's a mavic ksyrium pro exalith, so has carbon spokes on the non drive side on the back wheel.

    Will this make the job more difficult for the mechanic?
    I hate propriety parts so much :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    There is significant play between the fork and the headset on my bicycle.

    All bolts are tightened to spec. The handlebars are rigid.

    I have attached a picture showing where the play is visible.

    It is noticeable when I hold the front brake and move the bike and also when I pick the bike up and place the front wheel back down - there is a travel of what feels like 3 - 5 mm.

    Any advice?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,983 ✭✭✭✭tuxy


    What condition are the bearings in?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    If it has developed suddenly, the lower headset race may have collapsed (needs replacing) or, if the fork has a carbon steerer, the tensioning plug at the top (under the outer top cap) may have slipped.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    tuxy wrote: »
    What condition are the bearings in?


    I just got it back from a service so I would like to say good condition. But I've lost all faith in Canyon so who knows.

    Type 17 wrote: »
    If it has developed suddenly, the lower headset race may have collapsed (needs replacing) or, if the fork has a carbon steerer, the tensioning plug at the top (under the outer top cap) may have slipped.


    It has a carbon steerer. I will inspect the compression plug.


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